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Comments
Len
And,is it enough of a change to feel the difference?
I have been very happy with my 02 Bean after driving it cross country and putting over 7500 miles in six weeks on the car. I just wondered why no one seemed to know about the changes in the suspension.
I'm not sure the OB models got a suspension change, I thought it was only the Leggy GT.
-mike
Bob
Unless they're made in Brazil, cars are not affordable to the middle class for the most part. That's why Renault, Toyota, and Honda built new assembly plants in Brazil. VW, Ford, Fiat, and Chevrolet already build there.
Here's an even funnier example of "Name that Country of Origin". Where would you pin down the Volvo V40?
Swedish, right? Not to fast - Volvo is owned by Ford. American, right? Nope, it's made in the Netherlands, so it's Dutch! Wrong again, that plant is owned by Mitsubishi, so of course it's Japanese! Oops, Mitsu is owned by Chrysler, so once again it's american. But holy cow! DCX owns Chrysler, so it's german! But if I own Ford stock, then it's brazilian! And if Guigiaro designed it, would it be italian?
See what I mean?
Len: strange indeed.
They say the struts got internal rebound springs, whatever that means. So the struts themselves were upgraded, but I bet the coil springs are identical. So are the tires, so I bet it's hard to tell the difference.
-juice
Due to the great amount of advice I have received here in the past, I hope to again request a small amount of help. I have seen questions like the ones I am about to ask answered in the past, but after quickly scanning about 1500 posts, I'm taking the easy way out and am asking the questions again. Thanks in advance for any help!
I'd like to know what oil filter to use in the Subaru H6, and where to find these for the best price online. Also, I would like to know what washer I need, and if I need to replace the oil plug at the same time. And, in the same topic, what is the recommended oil type/brand to use in the H6?
Also, does anyone have a somewhat inexpensive source for buying the Subaru manual(s)?
Thanks again for any and all help.
Colin in SoCal
Alland
I'm a newbie, hoping you haven't already covered this. I have a 1997 Impreza Outback Sport. I'm pretty happy with it, but it's looking quite shoddy since the wheel covers fell off. I've noticed many others on the road also missing wheel covers. I bought some cheap-o replacements but had a tough time getting the seal (for lack of a better term) that holds the covers to the wheel, off. Our family mechanic offered to do it for me, but then realized it was a bit of a job and said he'd have to charge me for it. Just wondering if others have run into this problem too, and if so, what they've opted for. I'm considering buying new wheels.
In advance, thanks to all.
Or try NAPA, PepBoys, TrakAuto, whoever you have in your area, just stick with Purolator or another reputable brand.
Cory: what size wheels are those? I have a complete set of OE 15" wheel covers from our Legacy that lock on to the wheel. Good ones lock on, cheap ones will just fall off at the next pot hole.
E-mail me at ateixeira@ifc.org if you are interested. Someone else expressed interest but has not gotten back in touch with me. I'd sell 'em cheap to any other Subaru Crew member.
-juice
Anyhow, no Subarus in our local yards and this small a part is not listed when you contact internet salvage yards. Anyone on the list find themselves in a wrecking yard with Outbacks in it that would like to help me out? Takes about 3 minutes per (a single screw) hook to pull the whole thing out.
Thanks!
IdahoDoug
Bummer, in a way, good in another.
-juice
I had the same problem with wheel covers coming off my 97 OBS because the twist locks did not secure them properly.
To get the replacements to fit, I had to pull out the insert ring in the wheel that the twist locks attach to. The Subaru dealer said that sometimes they are hard to remove, but mine came out easy.
Thanks
In fact, any hints as to how they work? I guess I have to twist to install them too?
-juice
Can't go wrong with either an 02 or 03 in my opinion.
Anyone know of anyone who has attempted this?
Thanks in advance,
Q.
http://forcedairtech.com
web3: 47k miles on my original clutch. The good news is that even though clutch chatter isn't uncommon, the clutches do seem to last. Has anyone here had outright clutch failure? I'd be curious to know the mileage if/when that happened.
A guy just turbocharged his Forester, with the same engine. Check i-club.com.
-juice
Here's a little background before you make a suggestion. I live in the Washington, D.C. area, and we haven't seen a lot of snow in the last couple of years. I drive to work (~30 miles RT) every weekday, and I mountain bike at least 4-5 times a week, so add at least another 300 miles for that. I rarely go onto gravel roads to get to the trailhead, but I want something that will work decently on that surface as well, just in case.
Price isn't too big a concern, although I would like to stay under $500 for the price of all 4 tires, but I could go up to $600 if there are tires that are worth it.
Where's a good place to start looking, then finally order and install those suckas (remember, DC area)? I am a total newbie when it comes to cars. Ask me anything about mountain bikes though... ;^)
You can mount them at Costco for something like $8 per tire, and that price includes everything. You do need to be a member, though.
I have Nittos of the same size, but they are not good in snow and don't have the gravel characteristics you desire.
-juice
That's a good budget and I recently spent $430 on the Michelin X1s - a premium tire from a premium brand. Mine were 15", so yours may be larger/more expensive. This was at my local tire shop and Sears would have been $4/tire cheaper but I like to support the little guys in this big box world when I can.
I've bought from TireRack and from my local Michelin store in the past. My experience with TIreRack is that by the time you pay for shipping, the tires arrive at your door perhaps $20/tire cheaper than local purchase. Quality mounting and balancing costs about $12 in my area.
By contrast, local purchase includes mounting and balancing and rotation for the life of the tire. If you buy at TireRack and have a problem down the road, the local tire store will be a little less quick to help you if you did not buy them at their store. I'm not saying this is right or wrong, but this is true whether it's a car dealer or a VCR player.
Last year, I had gotten fed up with a set of tires that would not hold balance well on my truck. The local shop replaced them with new ones and I drove off an hour later completely satisfied. They sent them back to the factory as defective. If these were purchased out of town, I cannot even begin to guess how the story would have ended. This solved the problem BTW - must have been a bad batch.
So, by the time you pay to have them mounted, the savings is fairly minor and you'll be paying for a rotation twice a year which adds up. I should say all my dealings with TireRack have been first rate, by the way. Just yesterday I installed a set of Hella FF200s I purchased at - you guessed it - TireRack.
Just my two cents, your mileage may vary.
IdahoDoug
Here in NYC tires @ a tireshop generally will cost me at least $75-$150 more for a set of 4 than buying them from tirerack, even with getting them mounted and shipped.
Also most shops around here only want to be bothered with the Bling Bling R@cers who dump $1500 in tires and rims in one shot.
-mike
But I'd say get price quotes and compare, since each method has its advantages. For instance, I had to wait several days to get the tires, and then wait again to schedule an appt to mount them.
In my case, I rotate them myself, so that's free. I torque them carefully, and I'm not sure whether the tire shops are as careful.
-juice
-mike
-juice
You are right that tire shops often over-torque wheel nuts. I checked mine once and found that they were tightened to over 140lbft - double the specified value. I suspect this is what caused my rotors to warp.
My local Gemini (Goodyear) shop is terrible about this - they must just use the air wrench to tighten the nuts. They always over-inflate my tires too. I now go to NTB, where they allow customers into the work area to watch, and they start off with the air wrench but then finish tightening with a torque wrench.
NTB is pulling the wool over your head...if they use the air wrench first, unless they are using a torque stick of a much lower torque rating than what is specified for your wheels. What happens is if they come in and torque the nuts down beyond the required amount, then when they follow up with a click type torque wrench, it will just click but not do anything since the torque setting has already been exceeded.
The only correct way to do this is to thread the nuts on by hand and torque them with a torque wrench. As Juice said, I rotate the tires myself...no one else to hold accountable.
BTW I must add that I will never do business with NTB again, too many bad experiences with those jokers. Of course, I am the dummy because after the first screw up, I went back for more!
-r
-juice
Ever since the stock market flopped I have had to worry about how I'd afford a Subie. The $1200 dealer payback might open a door for me now, although prices here in the Frozen North aren't nearly as competitive as in the NE.
the still Subie-less Steve
I can't say I recommend the service department. They seem to do OK work, but charge for premium service...
--jay
(fellow Northlander in the frozen tundra)
White Bear has one on their lot that would do: MT 2002 Legacy L wagon in Timberline Green Pearl. I'd rather have AT, based on reading posts from people talking about shuddering clutches, but I figured they'd be aggressive in dealing a car that has been on the lot a mighty long time.
I've got a much better place (closer to my Saint Paul bungalow, too) to get service after warranty stuff is over. So service isn't the big issue. I want to buy a car at a price so low they fire the salesman as I drive away.
Steve
epeterson@whitebearasi.dealerspace.com
or
http://www.ImportWebNews.com
Eric Peterson is his name...
>What happens is if they come in and torque the
>nuts down beyond the required amount, then when
>they follow up with a click type torque wrench,
>it will just click but not do anything since
>the torque setting has already been exceeded
I thought of this and checked the torques myself afterwards (on 2 separate visits), and they were correct. They must have had the air wrench set on low.
I'm sure that individual NTB shops vary in their training and that individual people within the shops do varying quality work, so I will continue to verify the torques myself. I could rotate the tires myself but I can't balance them...
As long as you are vigilant of what those folks are doing, you should be fine. My bad experiences with them were on different visits to different shops. I used to swear by them, and that is what kept me going back before.
Now I use Kauffman Tire. I don't think they are nationwide...just regional. They offer free rotation and free flat repair (actual patch and re-balance as opposed to just a plug) regardless of whether or not you bought the tires there....it is just the company policy.
-r
Don't hurt your dealer too bad, you still want them to be around next time you need a car, or service. They have to feed their kids, too.
I used to be very adversarial with dealerships, but I decided to change that. I actually visited my salesman yesterday, thanked him for the nice treatment, gave him an update on the mods we've done (moonroof, alloys, 6CD, etc). We had a nice chat and he took me out in a 2.5GT just to try the Shiftronic, since I was curious. It's kind of refreshing, we're friendly so there's zero pressure to make a sale. He knows I'll go back there next time.
He said the 2003 L model, sans the SE package, is something they special order only. Isn't that strange? They don't stock any, ever. Tons of L/SEs, though. And he said he has not sold a single 2.5GT yet, because the price is a big jump from the L/SE.
He suggested, and I agreed, that the GT needed more power and 17"s to distinguish itself.
-juice
Ed
But to summarize, I liked it. Intuitive front/back shifting, easy touch, reasonably quick response. None are immediate, and Subaru's is quicker than Volvo's and VW's, and about the same as Mercedes' in quickness.
I will hold a gear even at high revs, but I noticed it does shift to 1st if you come to a full stop.
I give it a thumbs up.
-juice
Ed
-juice
I was kidding about driving a hard bargain at the dealership. I'm a real wuss. Anyway, I'm going to send my friend Kristin to negotiate my next car purchase. I convinced her to buy a used Forester and was helping her with negotiations because she's too sweet to drive a hard bargain. But the one day she went car shopping without me she bought her Forester at $2,000 less than Edmunds TMV. Kristin is Playmate material, and I'm pretty sure that salesman wasn't thinking with his brain when he negotiated that sale.
Lookin' at a barely used OB today.
Steve
Good luck shopping.
-juice
I'd buy the model without the fogs and put your own on if you want usable fog outputs. This also gives you an opportunity to wire them so you can actually use them alone as opposed to the factory foglamps that force you to have the low beams on also. If conditions are bad enough a foglamp is needed to cut glare, having the low beams on is ludicrous as it will create so much glare even a quality foglamp will not give you good results.
IdahoDoug
-juice
Greg
The wire was clearly visible and it was running into the right side door panel. I was able to reposition the wire up inside the dash. I am not sure how this wire got loose, or what it's purpose. Possibly it's for the alarm. Does anyone know it's purpose?
Thanks
Might be the air bag.
-Dave
Strange that a single wire would get loose like that.
-juice