i've noticed a "creaking" noise on my 98' 3.1 lumina just past the gas and brake pedals on the other side of the floorboard...it is most noticeable when lightly tapping the accelerator pedal or suddenly backing off the accelerator pedal when going staight ahead or in a turn... it may be originating in or around the steering gearbox...otherwise the steering and suspension seem fine...any ideas? thanks...
I talked to a mechanic friend and he said if its turning over but not starting more than likely its the keys. He said it is probably the resistor they have in the key for the antitheft system isnt the right one for your system. If it doesnt even turn over it is something else. Like a loose wire or bad fuse. Hope this helps. SAC
I just bought a '93 Chevy Lumina(had 167,000 m+-) a few months ago because my Mazda died. This car seems to run very well and I forgot how comfortable American cars are!! I was wanting to take a 5 hour trip and was curious about what kind of gas mileage I could expect. This is to check out a new job and being on a tight budget..just don't need any surprises. It is a V6 automatic..that is all I can offer at this time.Would have checked engine size..etc... but decided to post this on spur of the moment. (Only thing I see wrong so far with this car is the paint job! It's burgundy and clear coat has come off..the trunk is the worst.. clear coat is almost completely off. Sides look okay..hood has a few small places..I can live with it 'til I paint it)
My '91 Lumina, with 3.1 L engine, got about 27 mpg on it's last road trip. It had about 120k miles on it at the time. Get it checked out before you take off-better safe than sorry. If the fuel and air filters haven't been replaced lately, might be a good idea-she'll run better.
Hello I have had a LOT of trouble with my '96 Lumina this summer, I do take car of my car when needed but this has even stumped the mechanic and the mechanics where it was originally purchased. They have never heard of this problem before.....but hopefully someone here has.
When I go to start the car at any given time sometimes it will start and other times I would be driving it for approx 3 hours and then park it to run in for a coffee and come out to start it again and it WILL NOT start. The method my mechanic told me to do is to: Turn the Key on and put the car in Neutral and try and start it - which sometimes will do and others times I have to throw it back into "park" and try and start it. Somethings this will work and other times it will not. Have to try this little trick at least three or four times before it will start. CAN anyone help me. I have recented replaced my "neutral switch" and here is the problem.
Now, my car has a 253,000 kms on it, original motor etc. I did purchase the car when the kms were high to begin with. :mad:
Dont know if this will help but my 95 was having problems stalling and what it ended up being was the temp sensor by the thermostat. It wasnt giving the computer the correct temp so the computer always thought it was cold even when it was hot so it would flood the injectors. My mechanic friend found it by accident with his scanner. Showed 180 on the trans temp after hot and 57 on the motor. Hope this helps. SAC
I had a trouble like this in my Lumina 96 just two days ago. After driving the car for an hour and parking it for minutes or even hours the car does not started, cranked but not started. The car started perfect when it was cold but not when hot. I check the vacuum line to the fuel regulator and I found some gas coming out from the top of the regulator (that is not how it has to be) $67.77 @ Track auto. I replaced it and my trouble is gone. Now, If the trouble is that the starter doesn't work when is hot and you replaced the parking switch try to test the starter motor and wire terminals attached to the starter, I had this trouble long time ago with my old Impala, I overhaul my starter and it worked,sometimes when the solenoid gets hot and is old, is to much resistence to create the electrical field. I hope you find it helpful.
Lately my 96 has been acting up. It would sputter occasionally and then it got to the point that it wouldnt start after it got too hot. So i took it to a machanic and he said that he thought the problem was the fuel filter. For 2 days the car ran ok. He changed the fuel filter,spark plugs, put on a new water pump, and a few other miscellanious things. 400 dollars later i thought that i was in the clear.
So i kept driving it until yesterday i got stuck at walgreens. My car just wouldnt start. So i sat for 1/2 an hour and then started it again, and sure enough it started without any problems. Ir would occasionally "chug" still though. So i thought that the cadalytic converter was clogged so i took it to a muffler shop and had it changed. He said it was slightly clogged. Well after he changed it worked fine. Then the same problem started again and i got stuck.
is this a common problem with these cars? When i bought it it ran fine even though it does have an intake manifold problem. Once the car heats up that problem goes away.
I don't know what i should do. And i really dont want to keep wasting money on what people think is wrong with it.
Once it started again, i took it to auto zone and the guy came out and looked at it. He told me that he thought that it was the ignition module. ?
You dont say if it still cranks over and not start or wont do anything. I'm assuming that it is cranking but not starting.My 95 was actually flooding the car because the temp sensor was not working. Not the one to the gauge but to the computer. It was telling the computer that it was cold and flooding the injectors because it was actually at running temp. When it cooled down it would start.Its the sensor (on the 3.1) by the thermostat, at the end of the water hose on the engine. Still maybe an electrical problem , but this is a cheaper check. Hope it helps SAC
My mother has a 93 Lumina with only 40K miles on it,that we are experiencing the same problem with. My mom is elderly and handicaped. I have to take her to her appointments and shopping and such. Lately we drive it and it starts just fine when its cold, when we come out of the store or where ever, it will crank but will not start. Sometimes it will caugh and sputter for a few seconds, then die. We usually have to sit and wait for about 45 minutes and it will start up and run just fine, no matter how long it runs or how hot it gets... Until I turn it off, then it does the same thing. I took it to a mechanic and he looked it over for two days and it ran fine for him (Murphey's Law!!). I am going to try changing the computer temp sensor and see what happens. I will post another message after I try it.
Hello Thanks for the respond. Next you get in your car and it doesn't start try this. Turn the key = so it's in the on position (about to start the car) and put gear from "park" to "neutral" position and your foot on the brake and start and start in that position. Should work. That is the trouble I'm having at this moment but have many more problems with my '96 Lumina -my car Does Not cough or sputter though, altho not yet.
Let me know how this works for you. If it starts that way I mentioned above then you probably have the same problem that I have, which the mechanics in Ottawa, Ontario Canada do not know what this is and can't find out how to fix it. great! just what we need. Look forward to hearing from you. RuralCountry2@yahoo.com
"Turn the key = so it's in the on position (about to start the car) and put gear from "park" to "neutral" position and your foot on the brake and start and start in that position. Should work. That is the trouble I'm having at this moment but have many more problems with my '96 Lumina -my car Does Not cough or sputter though, altho not yet.
Let me know how this works for you. If it starts that way I mentioned above then you probably have the same problem that I have, which the mechanics in Ottawa, Ontario Canada do not know what this is and can't find out how to fix it. "
Sounds like a bad neutral safety switch... If the Ottawa mechanics can't figure that out, you need a new mechanic.
I had an '88 Cutlass Supreme w/ 270,000 w/ the same engine. I had hesitation when I took off from a stop, but it ran great once it was moving. A mechanic freind of mine looked at it and suggest I replace or at least clean the EGR valve. It basically sends exhaust gases back into the engine to burn unburned fuel in the exhaust. I never did anything with it though, I just dealt with it.
Hi I did mention to the mechanic if it was a defective neutal switch and they said No.
Are you a mechanic to know this problem that I'm having with my car? or has it happened to your car before?
I do know that the mechanic has said that sometimes it feels like the gear is either stiff or a rubbery feeling - whatever that means - I don't know. Thanks for your input. RuralCountry2@yahoo.com :confuse:
Hi there and thanks for your suggestion. I had considered the nuetral safety switch, but I elimitated that since it did cough and sputter sometimes when starting it (this means it was getting a spark and the engine cranked just fine). Also, if it was the safety switch, I would have this problem whether it was hot or cold alike (I would think anyway). In my posting I said I was going to replace the temp sensor. It made sense to me that the sensor was telling the computer the engine was cold when it was hot and flooding the injectors. I replaced the temp sensor and drove it all day with no problem, I thought it was fixed. Then, I took it on the freeway and drove it for about an hour at 75 mph. I stoped to use a restroom and when I came back out, it would not start. I had to have it towed, so I took it to a mechanic and he immediately discovered that the fuel pump was bad. The hard long drive finally made the pump quit all together. He replaced the pump and the strainer and now it starts and runs perfect. The mechanic said problems with electric fuel pumps can be intermitant sometimes. So my suggestion is: If you are having the same problem, take the car on a hard roadtrip, sustaining highway speeds for an extended period of time (of course stay close to home if you can and have someone that can tow you, follow you, or have your AAA card at the handy), if it quits and will not start after cooling down, the problem could likely be the fuel pump. At this point, have the fuel pressure tested before you pull the tank and replace the pump.
I owned a 1992 Chevrolet Lumina Euro edition with these nice mag rims. The plastic protector coat was damaged and the rims' surface was then exposed to the elements for a few years. I would like to restore them as low cost as I could. I wouldn't mind doing the work myself. I tried using a Dremel-type rotary tool at 35,000 rpm to clean them. The wire brush attachment cleaned the exposed rim nicely, but will not take off the remaining plastic coating. I tried burning the plastic coating off using an open flame without success.
HELLO EVERYONE I have finally had my problem on my car fixed by a chev dealership. My mechanic could find the problem so I went to better mechanics and this is what they found:
Trans Park Pawl Actuator Rod separated inside of transmission R&R trans side cover. Replace Park Pawl actuator, side cover gaskets as per diag of 1340. Road tested all ok.
Problem is now solved and driving very nicely. Hopefully if someone else is having the same problems I had, which was posted on problem 751. Then this might help you out too.
My windshield wipers quit working while traveling on interstate.Got to off ramp and to a parking spot OK.After a lot of tinkering ,found out the wipers would work only if the left signal was turned on.Confused a lot of drivers,but got home OK.I see a little lid over the signal switch handle under the steering wheel,is this the way into the probable cause for the problem?
I have a 1991 Chevy Lumina, and recently the rearview mirror came unglued from the windshield. I have been having a difficult time reattaching it with various kinds of glue. Has anyone had any experience with this problem and have any suggestions? Your help is appreciated.
Hi. I am having a similar problem. I can't get the left brake light to work. The left turn signals are fine, as are the hazard lights, but when the brake pedal is depressed, that one bulb refuses to light. Obviously it isn'y yhr bulb or the wiring, since the signal works. I replaced the brake pedal switch and the problem remains. Is there another switch or relay in the circuit? If so, where might it be. bob
I have a mechanic friend that told me that the problem I am having is caused by the turn signal switch. It is tied into the brake light system somehow. My center brake light works but the right and left dont until I flipped the turn signal switch on way or the other. He says it is the contacs in the switch. It is a bi.... to replace as you have to take the steering wheel off. I havent done mine yet but am interested if anyone else has any other ideas. Good luck SAC
You can buy a little kit that comes with the proper glue to reattach the mirror. The kit costs less than $10 and can be purchased at Walmart's automotive department or any automotive store. Good luck.
hi i have a 90 Chevy Lumina 2 door???i need 2 front seat belts .....chevy lot says no can do...does anyone know who may still make them? no luck at junk yard ..help and thanks
I found a website you might check. Its called newgmparts.com They sell everything for your seatbelts. Color coded and all. Good luck. Where do you live? We have alot of junkyards called pickapart. And they have some in Missouri called uwrenchit.
thanks im in chattanooga tn. most of our yards are gone...found some 4 door car...mine is 2 door was told 4dr belts wouldnt fit.......thanks for website..
I have a 91 lumina 2dr eurosport, and i am looking for a new dashpad for it. It has warped fairly bad around the defroster where most of them go. Anybody have an idea where i can get a new re-man one? or a used one? I have looked but i cant find any? specifically blue.
95' Lumina with the wiper problem.I took the car to the dealer---said $175 Approx.for a turn signal switch---total w.labor,$350.No way--yet! Did you get your new switch in?Is it do-able for my friend the local mechanic,or will this wreck the friendship?!! Aluminite
No I havent put the switch in. He has to take the steering wheel off. And make sure he disconnects the battery and makes sure there is no residual electricity in the car,, turn on lights honk the horn etc, so the air bag wont go off when he takes the wheel off. As long as there is no power to the bag it cant go off. Thats probably why they want so much to do it. Pain in the a..... that they didnt make the switch 2 piece so you wont have to do that but that would be too easy. Good luck SAC
I have a 91 Lumina 2dr euro, and for some reason it is leaking water into the trunk. I siliconed around the bolts for the rear spoiler, and i siliconed the rear quarter seams at the front near the hinges but it still seems to leak. the water seems to be at the very back at either side and then runs to the middl. I have a very nice set of 2000 watt Rockfort Fosgate P-series subwoofers to install but i dont want water to ruin them. So if anyone has heard of this problem or has a sugeestion, please let me kno!
I have a 98 Lumina. The windows continually fog up no matter how I set the air/heat. It seems as though it isn't drawing in air from the outside. I need to open a window partially to keep the fog down. Any solutions?
If you think it is not bringing in outside air, check the ducting and seals on your blower motor, or have a mechanic check that out. If it is not bringing in outside air those coul be the cause. just a thought.
I havent had this problem with my lumina but I had a lincoln that the heater core was bad and it did similiar fogging. Just a thought. Might be leaking. Good luck SAC
1999 Lumina 4 door sedan. Ignition lock cylinder was replaced, now whenever a door is opened, there is a clicking as if the turn signal or hazards are on. Interior dome light blinks. Continues once the car is started and lasts 15-20 seconds. I suspect it has nothing to do with the ignition lock cylinder, but this is driving me INSANE!
since you changed the lock cyl. did you use the original key? If not it may have something to do with the security system. Not that it does anything. Mine doesnt. The security light just stays on all the time now when the key is on. My mechanic friend told me it is in the chip in the key. Dont know if yours is the same but it might have something to do with it. Just a thought. Dealer might know. Good luck SAC
It sounds like the theatre lighting wiring (interior lights slowly dim then go out after 20 seconds) is making contact with a turn signal or hazard light connection.
actually the air bag can still go off for up to aprox 30 minutes after the batt is disconnected the air bag module has a energy reserve so that if for some freak accident the power is cut to it it can activate for a short period of time. the safest way disconn. batt and disconnect the air bag at the base of the steer column and work up and just a precaution touch a ground because any little stray shock WILL set off the airbag its alot of work but it can be done.
no the lights go off as soon as the ign. is turned to the run start setting so it cant be that by ne chance was the car a lease car be for you got it because some of the cars that people with bad credit have a "anti theft" thing on it that you have to wait like 15 to twenty seconds to actually start the car its also used by the dealership to disable the car if the person doesnt pay the payment it could be that it was by passed but is still hooked up just a thought??!
My car refused to start after having problem with fuel and i add fuel , ever since it wont start. Also after turning off the ignition, the dash board light kept on blinking.
I know this messages is from months ago, and i hope that you have the car fixed. However if others are having this same problem, I would first check your coils, which are in the front of the engine block and and are on the back of the ignition modulator. I had this same problem and for months could not figure it out. I had a dear friend of mine work on the car and after he replaced my fuel pressure regulator, we took my coil pack to AUTOZONE and test all 3. it turns out that 1 pack was set at ahigher temperture when the engine is cold. So, after running your car for soo long the coil gets too hot. its only after 45min to an hr that everthing cools off enough to start the engine again. so take off the set w/ the ignition modulater, coil packs and take them to the auto part store that you can get them tested. My one coil pack that needed replaced was $15. and car the works fine. Good luck to all!
are the springs/shocks/struts on a z34 will fit a non z34??? i have a 1990 2 door would love to upgrade... autozone has a GABRIEL ULTRA for 39.99..but would like alittle more Performance...have smooth ride way is any info would be great..... thanks :confuse:
Comments
I have had a LOT of trouble with my '96 Lumina this summer, I do take car of my car when needed but this has even stumped the mechanic and the mechanics where it was originally purchased. They have never heard of this problem before.....but hopefully someone here has.
When I go to start the car at any given time sometimes it will start and other times I would be driving it for approx 3 hours and then park it to run in for a coffee and come out to start it again and it WILL NOT start.
The method my mechanic told me to do is to: Turn the Key on and put the car in Neutral and try and start it - which sometimes will do and others times I have to throw it back into "park" and try and start it. Somethings this will work and other times it will not. Have to try this little trick at least three or four times before it will start.
CAN anyone help me. I have recented replaced my "neutral switch" and here is the problem.
Now, my car has a 253,000 kms on it, original motor etc. I did purchase the car when the kms were high to begin with.
:mad:
I hope you find it helpful.
So i kept driving it until yesterday i got stuck at walgreens. My car just wouldnt start. So i sat for 1/2 an hour and then started it again, and sure enough it started without any problems. Ir would occasionally "chug" still though. So i thought that the cadalytic converter was clogged so i took it to a muffler shop and had it changed. He said it was slightly clogged. Well after he changed it worked fine. Then the same problem started again and i got stuck.
is this a common problem with these cars? When i bought it it ran fine even though it does have an intake manifold problem. Once the car heats up that problem goes away.
I don't know what i should do. And i really dont want to keep wasting money on what people think is wrong with it.
Once it started again, i took it to auto zone and the guy came out and looked at it. He told me that he thought that it was the ignition module.
?
Thanks for the respond. Next you get in your car and it doesn't start try this.
Turn the key = so it's in the on position (about to start the car) and put gear from "park" to "neutral" position and your foot on the brake and start and start in that position. Should work. That is the trouble I'm having at this moment but have many more problems with my '96 Lumina -my car Does Not cough or sputter though, altho not yet.
Let me know how this works for you. If it starts that way I mentioned above then you probably have the same problem that I have, which the mechanics in Ottawa, Ontario Canada do not know what this is and can't find out how to fix it.
great! just what we need. Look forward to hearing from you.
RuralCountry2@yahoo.com
Let me know how this works for you. If it starts that way I mentioned above then you probably have the same problem that I have, which the mechanics in Ottawa, Ontario Canada do not know what this is and can't find out how to fix it. "
Sounds like a bad neutral safety switch... If the Ottawa mechanics can't figure that out, you need a new mechanic.
Hope this helps.
I did mention to the mechanic if it was a defective neutal switch and they said No.
Are you a mechanic to know this problem that I'm having with my car? or has it happened to your car before?
I do know that the mechanic has said that sometimes it feels like the gear is either stiff or a rubbery feeling - whatever that means - I don't know. Thanks for your input.
RuralCountry2@yahoo.com :confuse:
In my posting I said I was going to replace the temp sensor. It made sense to me that the sensor was telling the computer the engine was cold when it was hot and flooding the injectors. I replaced the temp sensor and drove it all day with no problem, I thought it was fixed. Then, I took it on the freeway and drove it for about an hour at 75 mph. I stoped to use a restroom and when I came back out, it would not start. I had to have it towed, so I took it to a mechanic and he immediately discovered that the fuel pump was bad. The hard long drive finally made the pump quit all together. He replaced the pump and the strainer and now it starts and runs perfect. The mechanic said problems with electric fuel pumps can be intermitant sometimes.
So my suggestion is: If you are having the same problem, take the car on a hard roadtrip, sustaining highway speeds for an extended period of time (of course stay close to home if you can and have someone that can tow you, follow you, or have your AAA card at the handy), if it quits and will not start after cooling down, the problem could likely be the fuel pump. At this point, have the fuel pressure tested before you pull the tank and replace the pump.
Just my two cents.
I tried using a Dremel-type rotary tool at 35,000 rpm to clean them. The wire brush attachment cleaned the exposed rim nicely, but will not take off the remaining plastic coating. I tried burning the plastic coating off using an open flame without success.
I have finally had my problem on my car fixed by a chev dealership. My mechanic could find the problem so I went to better mechanics and this is what they found:
Trans Park Pawl Actuator Rod separated inside of transmission R&R trans side cover. Replace Park Pawl actuator, side cover gaskets as per diag of 1340. Road tested all ok.
Problem is now solved and driving very nicely.
Hopefully if someone else is having the same problems I had, which was posted on problem 751. Then this might help you out too.
bob
Aluminite
Thanks.
D
the safest way disconn. batt and disconnect the air bag at the base of the steer column and work up and just a precaution touch a ground because any little stray shock WILL set off the airbag its alot of work but it can be done.
I had this same problem and for months could not figure it out. I had a dear friend of mine work on the car and after he replaced my fuel pressure regulator, we took my coil pack to AUTOZONE and test all 3. it turns out that 1 pack was set at ahigher temperture when the engine is cold. So, after running your car for soo long the coil gets too hot. its only after 45min to an hr that everthing cools off enough to start the engine again.
so take off the set w/ the ignition modulater, coil packs and take them to the auto part store that you can get them tested. My one coil pack that needed replaced was $15.
and car the works fine.
Good luck to all!
Did you ever find the solution to your problem? I have the same problem (one brake light not working) with my 98 Lumina.