My 2001 Lincoln Ls 3.9 V8 has an issue

costew93costew93 Member Posts: 5
edited May 2014 in Lincoln
Hello everyone.

Thanks to all who gave me advice on my v8 LS last week. I got the car checked out and as everyone that replied said... it was in fact an ignition coil and bad connecter. (connecter has been zip tied) Can you believe that!?

The two garages and the dealer that quoted me repair prices were in the range of 850-1200$ to repair it. **They all three said I should change all coils connectors and plugs...infact this makes total sense to me BUT I dont want to pay that amount of money.

I am somewhat of a do-it-yourselfer and would like to take on the job myself.

Can anyone help guide me thru the process. I have heard that it A LOT easier than the v6 model. Any truth to this? Would just like hear how the heck to do this....I have looked up proceedures online and in repair manuals but no luck yet.

Thanks everyone! 3.9 V*8 LS 79,000 miles


  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    It is very straightforward but things are a bit tight on the driver's side. I suggest you start with the passenger side to build your confidence. It is easy.

    Just remove the coil cover from the valve cover - 8 screws requiring a 7mm socket, if I recall. You may need a 7mm box-end wrench for the ones closest to the firewall. The coils are also attached with a screw that requires the same size socket as the coil cover. Just unsnap the electrical connection from the coils, remove the screw, and pull the coils out of the holes one at a time.

    Be careful with the electrical connections. You need to push down on a little tab to get them to release prior to just pulling them apart. As you pull the coils, take a good look in the holes where the plugs are. If you see oil pooled around the plugs, oil anywhere in the hole or oil on the rubber shield attached to the coil, you have a bigger job ahead of you - much bigger.

    The driver's side is more difficult only because things are tighter over there. Most of the stuff in the way can simply be loosened and moved out of the way. It looks more daunting than it really is.

    Somewhere on the internet, I am sure there is probably detailed instructions with pictures. I know there is for the valve cover job but I don't have the link handy.
  • costew93costew93 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for your info!!!

    Was wrong with the estimates...the garage wants $1800 to do the job so I am definitely doing it myself. The only thing I am concerened about is that I have a bad connector wire that plugs into one coil. Are connectors difficult to find and replace?

    Thanks again!
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    I thought your original estimate was a bit low. The coils alone probably list for over $100 each at a dealer. I bought aftermarket coils from NAPA for around $50 each.
    The connections should be available from a dealer parts department. I have never replaced those but I presume it is a simple cut and splice job.

    A couple of other thoughts: I don't intend to insult you but I do not know how much of this type of work you have done. The screws holding the coils are fine thread and will cross thread easily. Same with the plugs - you are putting them down into a hole with a spark plug socket and an extension and can't really see what you are doing. Be careful to get them started straight. Also there is a special grease that you should put in the end of the rubber boots that go over the plugs. I think my replacement coils came with a little tube of it.

    Make sure you have the tools you need before you start. A quarter inch drive metric socket set with both short and long extensions is needed. There is a bracket on the drivers side shock tower that needs to come loose and moved out of the way. It is held on with a couple of 14mm nuts, if I recall correctly. You will want a box-end wrench or larger socket set for that. The screws holding the coil cover on the drivers side near the firewall are harder to see. Also the one behind the dipstick tube is a bit ornery. I used small open-end or box-end wrenches for those and could only turn them maybe a quarter turn at a time. A socket on a swivel might also work. There is also a coolant hose in the way but you can just move it - no need to disconnect.

    Take your time, plan your work and you will have fun with it. Let us know how it goes or if you have questions.
  • costew93costew93 Member Posts: 5

    I have an Ls. The rearview mirror stopped working (compass and autodim) took it to a dealer and they said it needs to be replaced. I found one (new) and I contacted the dealer to install it.....200$ !!!! No way!!!!!!!!

    Has anyone ever installed this mirror on there LS??? If so is it difficult and how do you do it?

    Thanks for any info!
  • costew93costew93 Member Posts: 5

    Has anyone had this issue? My remote door locks have always worked fine. However today it is about 36degrees and when I go to unlock/lock the car with the key fob AND from inside the vehicle it aappears ONLY the drivers door is inoperable..even if I hit the door lock switch on the drivers door.

    Seems as if the car gets warmer... it starts working of and on.

    Have never had this one before. Only noticed it today as it has been the coldest day all year so far.

    I am begining to wonder if I made a mistake purchasing this car. I have had a magnitude of problems up to now. Kind of getting a bit frustrated.

    -Bad brakes
    -lower ball joints
    -engine coils
    -catalytic converter
    and so on...

    Car is an 01 with only 75,000 miles and looks brand new. Starting to loose my faith in this car and I have only had it 5 months.

  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,111
    probably not the solution, but i would check the battery in the remote and the under hood battery, too.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    i would check the battery in the remote and the under hood battery

    If you're looking for a battery under the hood you'll be there a long time.

    It's in the trunk. :blush:
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