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Now ... headers, intakes, lowering, etc, etc, blah, blah, blah ... what's the point? None of that bolt-on crap is going to put any real hp to the pavement. If your mission is to impress your buddies (girls over 15 aren't impressed with this sort of thing), figure out how much you want to spend TOTAL - including bling worship - and go buy GTO fixer-upper (or a 'cuda or whatever). Put some sweat into it, learn something in the process, enjoy kicking butt on the roads and make your money back when you sell it. Then take that money and invest in some really cool tatoos.
There is no such thing as a fair overgeneralization...
It was a cautionary comment to folks about buying old cars from dealers. I assumed (incorrectly so, I guess) that the reader base of this board would know that some goof named "Beernut" probably hasn't personally dealt with every dealer in the U.S.
Story time: I recently sold a low mileage Ford truck. One of the guys showing interest in it early on said, "Yea but YOUR truck has 36,000 on the original tires and the one the used car dealer is selling is only two years old, only has 21,000 miles and it has brand-new tires!"
Hmmmm... Let's see now - two years old... 21,000 miles, Ford truck, NEW TIRES... ???
Back in the very old days, two tablespoons of sawdust in a gearbox worked wonders. Today, new tires and two quarts of Armor-All under the hood make an old problem car new for a couple of weeks. Private sellers are not as likely or as skilled at hiding things. You can see what you are getting. (Boy, could I tell you some stories about a local Chevy dealer!)
To end on a high note, if you can find a dealer who will "fully" stand behind a 120,000+ mile used car, marry him.
We absolutely love our S and it is perfect for my wife. I will caution you about two things I don't like about it - remembering that its not my daily driver and she doesn't mind these things. 1) Consumer Reports mentions that the steering wheel may be too far away for taller drivers. I'm not tall, 5'-10, but the wheel is too far away for me, and 2) With all the headrests and maybe the side airbag covers (not sure about the impact of that one), visibility out the back sucks. I find it very difficult to see anything behind 180 degrees to the sides. Maybe its just a matter of getting used to it - but I don't like it.
Also, I put it on the road this weekend and found it to be a little loud and not particularly smooth for long distance highway, but I'm used to big, old Detroit cruisers.
There is a lot of good press lately about the Mazda 3. I liked it OK and have no problem with Mazda in general, but it seemed much smaller inside. The front seats seemed too small for my butt and the rear seats seemed much smaller than the Corolla.
Last thought ... I noticed the Corolla was not a strong accelerator above 60 to 70 MPH. No complaints about it, just an observation. Its obviously a HP vs. MPG trade-off.
So its possible, ask them about getting one straight from the factory, you'll have to wait 6-8wks but in my case that was fine. I may hold different for you.
MM
corolla.
99 Corrolla CE
95,000 miles
Made a deal at 3700 + taxes and fees
Is it a good deal. ? Please help.
While doing a test drive I observed that the steering seems a little loose. Is this oK ?
Any thoughts would help.
Check kbb.com and Edmunds.com to find out if your price is right.
Roofs. Corolla roofs tilt and slide.
Steering wheel controls for radio. Nope.
What I do know is that the DRL's come on with the ignition - no delay. This should include no panel lights or taillights. Then, the car's sensors start trying to figure out if its dark out. If it is and after some delay, it turns on the headlights, taillights and panel lights. I used to think it was also linked to the shifter, not letting you drive without headlights at night and just turning them on for you. Perhaps someone else has input on that. I also noticed that when I open my garage door and the door opener's light is still on, the car thinks its light out and won't turn on the headlights until I back out into the night darkness, then "poof".
By the way. I don't know how long you've had this car, but you should know where the shifter positions are without looking. Before MADD, it was a necessity!
I have an 05 Corolla LE (1000 miles) which makes some kind of a grinding or groaning noise during turns.I took it to the dealer who drove it around but found nothing unusual. Any thoughts ?!?!?!
The noise is quite distinct to me.The dealer tech guy said that it was a normal sound for a Corolla.I've yet to drive another 05 Corolla to verify this.
Has anyone heard of such a problem ??
Am trying to get my hands on an 05 Corolla to test-drive it !!
Beernut -- thanx for your inputs !!!
I can fool the automatic lights on our Mercedes, as well, though it does react a bit more quickly than the Corolla to sudden changes in ambient light. It's not unusual for me to switch the C240's lights on manually because a) I want the dashlights on right now or b) the conditions are marginal and I want to err on the safe side.
I have an 2003 Corolla with over 33k and it is excellent in every way. I noticed the driving position/steering wheel issue when I first purchased it, but have gotten use to it. I am 5' 10" but I've read other 5' 10" drivers still do not like it. It is roomy, quiet, reliable, and very capable on the highway. Gas mileage around town is low 30s and highway is high 30s.
By the way, did you buy this car used? Many times the old owners don't give the remotes when they trade in the car, or they "get lost" before the dealer sells the car.
hope this helps
Thanks,
Labrat41
with http://www.carsdirect.com/home I can equipp it w/ those options...
now I read, that it is difficult to get ABS in some areas. How is that in Wisconsin?
I'm currently living in Germany... there every car of corolla size and above comes w/ curtain airbags and VSC as standard, so we never worry... and you can get any feature everywhere.
Reading all this here confuses me a little bit.
While searching on toyota.com I can't pick options (except for the all weather, but I must pick it, got no choice...). But i don'T know if that'S just the retarded Toyota site, or the Madiosn-Zip code...
another thing I noticed about US cars (except that the models for the US market seem to be from the stone age... the European Corolla looks like this:
http://www.toyota.de/showroom/corolla/gallery.html
It also comes there w/ a 1.4 l / 90 hp engine, and 2 different Diesel engines... and 12 year rust through warranty
back to topic:
the oil change every 7.5 K miles..
Well, VW/Audi have 50.000 km / 2 year oil changes in Europe, but 8.000 km oil changes in the US with the very same engines. Similar is true for Toyota..
so, is the oil in the US worse, or is the fuel worse? I mean, it's not that cars in Europe break down because of the oil (otherwise manufacturere wouldn't do that for too long:-). Or is it some sweet thing to do the dealerships a favor so they can make some extra $?
I also considered the civic, but ABS and side-airbags (no curtain airbags available!!!) only come w/ sun roof and alloys.. which I don't need.
another thing, why is VSC only available w/ automatic transmission? I see that VSC applies the brakes and reduces power if needed... but that works w/ manual transmission too.... so why does Toyota only offer it with automatic transmission?
By the way, does anyone know good Toyota dealers in Madison/WI? How long does it usually take to get a car? I'm a little bit worried with all the things that are not standard and might not be available....
Even when I'm German, I don't wanna buy a VW.... but if Toyota leaves me no choice and doesn't give me the safety features that i need, I have to get a VW (at least ESP and curtain airbags are standard...the way it's supposed to be:-)
U.S Corolla buyers buy U.S. Corollas because they like them, "stone age" appearance and all. If I wanted to drive something around the country that looked like everybody else's VW, I'd move to Europe. (NOT!)