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Several days later I took the car in to Savannah Toyota (where I bought it) and after running a diagnostic test the technician, according to the invoice, "Replaced Charcoal Canister." (On the invoice I also see "PULLED PO441, 442, 446", whatever that means.) The light did go out, but two days later (July 30th) the "Check Engine Light" came on again and stayed on.
A few days ago I finally got around to taking the car in again and had a second diagnostic test done. This time the invoice reads "PO 440, 441 VAC. VALVE SWITCH INOP REPLACED." So I assume that means some sort of valve switch was replaced. In any case, today the "Check Engine Light" came on once more and has stayed on.
Has anyone had a similar problem, and, if so, how was it resolved? Both times I've wasted approximately three hours at Savannah Toyota, and this is really starting to get annoying.
Since I am an environmentalist, I am trading for the 2004 Prius with all options. I have driven it and its pretty good. Rides nice and smoooooth. Ordered mine about 2 months ago when first announced and it is to be delivered to dealer next Monday. As soon as I figure how to use all the touch screens, am sure I will enjoy it. The Navigation Screen contains the BlueTooth system for cell phone use automatically as long as you have the cell phone on your person.
Just my two cent worth of thoughts this Monday afternoon.
The new 330hp engine will carry over to the new Avalon. I would agree that an increase in torque and hp, just a little without affecting gas mileage would be very nice.
In regards to the user in the NE corner of New York, I drive from West Point, NY to Ft. Drum, NY through the snowbelt quite frequently, once or twice a month. If you all season tires do not cut it, you might try to remedy this, with the purchase of an additional set of wheels (ebay) and winter tires. You will find quite a difference b/w all season tires and winter tires, especially when the snow gets over a few inches on the road.
I am sure they will be using 16" and the new 17" rims that they are using on the Solara or Lexus. Toyota is a "Master" at cross using the parts bin.
I have no complaints with the column shifter in useage or other. It is in its proper place as is the OD override button. This was a direct copy from American Large vehicles. I have no comment on the floor model, (my opinion)however besides being unsightly as you described, it takes up floor space and seat space. I need a space for my big pocket book. Sick.
Enjoying this forum. Nomad56. Where are my fuzzy steering mods man!!! Don't make me wait.
abfisch
You speak of a 330HP engine coming out. I have not heard a thing about it. Can you explain more details? Is this a V6 or V8(?)and is it coming from Toyota or Lexus division? This is the type of power the Avalon could use after 5+ years with the 210HP. I have no issues with the shifter, I do like the shift gate idea that Acura and other manufacturers offer...neat when you have the desire to add fun to the drive.
Stickyman
My thoughts: Acuras cost more than an ANY XL and, using sales prices, not list, it is hard to push an XLS to even the base Acura level.
The Acura driver's seat size and rear seat room are still minimal compared to Avalon.
BOTH the gas tank and trunk in the new Acura TL are -smaller- than last year. (The trunk is actually smaller than some Honda Accord V6 trunks.) Neither approach Avalon capacity.
And the difference in sheer power and road "feel" is now more different than ever. BIG TIME different. Only the mutual high level of build quality remains the same.
Are we losing what has been one of our best comparisons to the Avalon? Your thoughts, all......??
To me, if anything, the RL is closer to the Avalon. The RL always listed for $40K but typically had to be sold for $36-37, just a few K up from the XLS sticker. The RL's seem to hold up like the Legends and are usually a great used car buy coming off lease. I don't know about Avvy's.
Honda has themselves in a tough niche with the entire Acura product line. A little short on the goods and a little high on the prices.
The Avalon's engine will be the current one that Toyota/Lexus is starting to put in their new lines. In other words, you start to see the Lexus 330, New Camry all with 3.3L engines instead of the 3.0L engine. That is the difference. Bigger 6 C not an 8. The torque is probably more important than the HP to most Avalon drivers. Toyota is a master at crossing parts between models, both good and bad, depending on the quality of the part.
Hope that helps.
abfisch
Dealer claims wind noise, vibration or other detoriation caused by normal use is not covered by Toyota Warranty.
They claim mileage is not a factor. 10 miles 3,000 miles still considered normal use????
I totally disagree.
Thanks,
JLuther
Let the forum know about your exact problems. There are people on this forum with much experience and enjoying trigger shooting stuff.
I believe the warranty is in back of the owner's manual stuff they give you with the car.
What type of wind noise are you having??? Virbration where?? In the steering column.??
abfisch
This is a separate piece from the surrounding dash area and it apparently rubs and makes a bit
of noise at various times. Anyone experience this squeak and find a suitable fix?
Regards,
L.
Am I missing something here?
Also, I agree, the tires and wheels are just too small for this car(and I have the 16"", it looks like its on wagon wheels, any solid recommendations on a bigger tire and wheel without drastic handling changes?? Does Toyota sell some mud flaps to hide this?
The car was a company car option, but clearly in 25 years, the best company car I ever was offered.
Thanks,
Post #2453: In regeards to your NAV system, I have not an answer. I specifically did NOT buy the XLS for that reason. I find it alot of money for not much show. However, for the tires or wheels, that is something different, and I have done quite alot of work on this. Yes, I would agree that the 60 series tires, especially, do not appear to "Look" aggessive for the width of the car. However, let us know what you are after and we can come up with a solution. You will notice that the fenders on this Toyota are not "flaired" much. Compare it to an Audi or similar vehicle. So too wide would look ridiculous. Yes they make Splash guards for it (Canadian) but they are pretty much for the OEM size tire. A 215 or 225 you could put on the vehicle but you would have to change the series, to a lower profile. While you would get better initial steering response, the ride would suffer and the chassis will not respond as fast as the tires.
See the tire web sites for further details. I would change the "weak" shocks before I would change the wheels or tires. You will notice an immediate difference in handling, braking, and lack of high speed dive and deflection in the car, with the same tires. It would be like riding in a sports sedan, while still retaining some of the quiet, insulating properties of the large luxury status.
Good luck and let us know what you do.
abfisch
The XG350L has the same exterior dimension as the Avalon and it comes standard with sunroof and a host of other goodies in including 5-year/60,000 mile warranty. And not to mention it is almost $10 grand cheaper.
I have not test driven the XG350/L yet but I am seriously considering it for my next purchase. I also understand a V8 version is coming soon. I don’t know that for a fact but I believe most of Hyundai’s quality issues are behind it.
Who's the dealer? Which region? What kind of vibrations? I had a simple squeak that I only heard when I went in and out of my driveway and Toyota replaced the front struts without a blink. They brought in a special guy to find a clicking rattle that I would have sworn was under the back seat, but was actually a seat belt.
We have 33K on our Michelins (from 2000) and they are still ok. I just drove to Delaware and back this week on them ( 300 miles each way) and all was fine.
28.5 mpg on the gasoline (measured ... 29 computed by the car) and 62 mph door-to-door including stops.
I HAD THE EXACT SAME ISSUES. I would have to discount post #2460. The dealership I dealt with was Toyota of Newburgh, NY and they proceded to play "Circle jerk" for 1.5 years between the dealership and the corporation. I had the same handling and vibration PROBLEMS!!!!!!!!! It is a relatively easy fix, ONCE the diagnosis is apparent. The vibration shacks the wheel, the faster you go, the car fights itself at high speed, and you notice the passengar seat do a jiggle right???? Normal wear and tear on a new car. Come on. They are some incompetent.
If you are interested, e-mail this forum again, and I will lead you through it. And, don't be afraid to note your bad experience dealership with this forum. It will help others avoid these pitfalls.
abfisch
afisch
You had your experience (which I don't discount at all) and we had ours. Just different.
I hope you can help mmcneil. If you had trouble like this and it finally got resolved then all can benefit from your experience!
Give me the signs and symptoms, like you are talking to a doctor. You drive alot. When does this occur. All the time, at speed, the faster you go, ONLY when you hit the brake, ......etc. Give me the detail, so I can make sure I am giving you genuine advise and it is the same problem I had fixed on my vehicle.
Does the steering wheel shimmy at higher speeds??Does the car seem like it is fighting you at higher speeds, say above 65MPH??? I am sure you are sick of your dealers BS as I was.
Let me know when, where, how, etc.
When I get the symptoms, I can better help you. Nomad56 hopefully will get on and help out as well.
Don't waste anymore of your time with being mad at the dealership. You are very busy, as I was (a Army job, a consulting job, and a long distance relationship). Tell me exactly what the car is doing.
Also, I am a Northeast driver as well, driving from West Point,NY to Ft Drum,NY through the snowbelt. So I understand you type and amount of driving. E-mail through this forum for help.
abfisch
For those of you, who DO NOT think that ALL Toyota dealerships are competent and caring, nor the corporation, please refer to post CAMRY RATTLES #28 or 292. This has become more of an occurrence lately, since Toyota is selling more cars. This is disgusting, and partially happened to me.
You should not be surprised when people write in to these forums and are getting the run around.
abfisch
WOW- talk about a blatant design rip off- The Kia Amanti dashboard/intstrument panel is an EXACT Avalon replica. Guess imitation really is the sincerest form of flattery.
~alpha
Here we go. These are my experiences not the gospel..Do NOT get discouraged. You do not have a LEMON..You have morons that cannot diagnose their own car problems, and a corporation that got too big to care about its customers.
1. The NEW Lexus ES330 DOES NOT, repeat, DOES NOT come with double wishbone suspesnion, either in the front or the back. Honda/Acuras do, as do BMW's that are multi link. Toyotas typically (read cheaper) come with independ. Macpherson struts(good)with dual link (really suspension arms)that are good not excellent. None of this has anything to do with the VIBRATION and DRIFT that you have.
2. If, and I would imagine you have already, checked the tires, wheels, and alignment (they have or take it to someone independent (like a family wheel and alignment place that cares), then in FACT, it is your ROTORS (and indirectly now, pads). Even though their is no demonstrable pad wear. The CRAPO rotors they contract out for are on the Camry/Avalon/Lexus/Solora models. (Read saving alot of corporate money). Mine came with the R side being SEVERELY warped. They told me I must have hit some water, or I brake too hard, or yada yada yada. Just not the case. Actually most of my driving in NYS thruway up to Ft. Drum, NY and around a small mountain to work where the speed limit is around 40MPH and I take it out of overdrive. My bet is that one of your FRONT rotors are warped too, not from your driving, but from a cheap part.
3. They will tell you, either you did it, or it still meets specs, via their micrometer. Rarely, will they take the time to put a "run out gauge" on it to see the totol run out of each side.
4. You can do one of 2 things. First though, make sure the tires,wheels, and alignment are squared away and keep ALL receipts.
5. Either argue with them, which you really don't have time to do, or do the following in #6.
6. Go to the internet. Find a website that sells premium front rotors for the Avalon. I bought mine from www.tirerack.com but there are cheaper places if you search. I bought POWERSLOT ROTORS for the R and L sides, and EBC Green stuff front brake pads. Either you, if you are capable change the rotors yourself, if not, then take it to the same "Wheel and alignment place" and they can do it. There are other premium Rotors, such as EBC or Brembro now, and I believe any of them are good. The reason you need to replace the pads is because the warpage, has changed the pad surface and it is uneven now. You might notice when you step on the brake very hard and downhill that the auto shutters. These premium rotors are slotted and/or dimpled or drilled. I just got the slotted.
7. Do NOT, Do NOT, Do NOT CUT or TURN the rotors. They will soon turn to the original warped condition within 5K miles. They do not dissipate heat the same way and I never advocate this. Is is cheap and unsafe, and costly in the long run.
8. You can use OEM pads, new ones too. I don't have a problem with this, but the rotors need to be replaced not cut, and you need to put on ones that are perfectly balanced from the get go. The EBC street pads, do not last as long, but man do they grab and you will notice a difference in the car riding and braking, remarkably. They do also put out brake dust, which is a pain in the backside, unless you like to clean or use a wheel inside cover called Kleen wheels to keep the brake dust off.
8. I know you are saying, why should I do this when I bought a beautiful new Toyota Avalon. It should have come perfect and Toyota should be reponsible for fixing it. Well, you are right, but not exactly. I was in the same exact dilemma too and it hurt me terribly. The $500 it will take to fix this problem, will save you many trips, aggravation, heartache, and you will have learned somethihng more valuable along the way.
9. If I am correct, I hope that you either do it yourself and learn how to do your own brakes, or find a good place that is fair, and does meticulous work.
10. Please let me know how things go, as I will have gotten something out of this mess too. It took me 16 months to fix this myself and I want to know I helped someone else along the way.
Regards. Excuse the lack of spell check errors. I typed this fast this AM.
abfisch
PS: If it is a new car, and I think you said it was a 03 XLS, I do not think the door seals are the problem although I had a problem with my front one. Not from wind noise though. Check the other posts. Check the doors alignment. The big mirrors make some noise but not very much on mine. Let me know how you do with the vibration and we can work on one problem at a time. I have a couple of other tricks that have worked out very well for a Northeast car.
As I mentioned earlier, yes, check the tires, then wheels, then alignment for before the brakes. This was mentioned in my post. I had checked them three separate time before embarking on the brake rotors. It was NOT the tires, it was not the wheels, and it was not the alignment.
The Avalon Service Manual has a good, albeit not complete algorithm for vibration problems, although I'd bet money I know where your problems lie.
Radio separation post- It probably lies in the amp. I do not have the experience to comment on that issue, but I would ask a good stereo shop. I would bet the dealership would have an answer although made up.
In my opinion, and that is all it is, that Amanti is nice, the criteria to compare it should not be soley on warranty, price, and dash arrangement. Their V6 has been mediocre in the auto press and the company's realibility rating is not on level with Toyota's. The price difference is not that much 2K to substantiate a "Best Buy" vehicle. The XL model Avalon don't have problems with too many of the same buttons nor auto climate control issues.
abfisch
Since I go through a large snow belt, on the western side of the Adirondacks, I knew I needed some serious traction. I am not sure how much snow you get in southern NH, but if snow is a problem, consistent, and cumulative, another avenue is to do what I did, albeit, again, mo money. Since my last car I had to 236K and I bought the XL model, I had money for my own extras.
Bought 4 steel wheels off a 1 year old Avalon/Camry over ebay, and put on 4 Michelin Artic Alpins winter tires.
If you have been through tires, both balancing and rotating, then it ain't the tires. Next go to the wheels, and make sure they are not out of round or the run out is within specs. Unless you hit something, changes are they are good. Then check the alighment, usually good from the factory unless you are hitting winter potholes. Keep going smaller and inside. Next is the brakes/rotors. Have someone put it on a Lathe, and measure thickness AND RUN out. The dealership probably will not take the time. It is too intense for most. While you are doing that, check the struts/shocks. They are weak to begin with (many posts and bottoming out/excessive nose dive reported in CU article, etc) but make sure they are at least OK.
I replaced the shocks a long time ago with TokicoHP's. (money left over between XL and XLS). Big difference along with everything else.
Let us know what you find. I am almost sure it is the rotor but use the alogorithm to diagnosis it probably. I have not seen much trouble with the paint, although it chips easily from all the highway driving, espcecially on the hood from the 18 wheeler spray. I put a stone/bug deflector, which I am not crazy about the looks, but have dramatically cut down on the rocks and chips. Splash guards help as well in the salt and sand stuff.
You can get the car correct, it just takes a little work.
regards.
abfisch
My 96 was vibration free until one of the CV joint covers came apart. There was no knocking from the joint and the joint seemed tight. There was still some lubrication in the joint, though most had sprayed back under the car and against the front wheel and tire.
After the new boots were installed I had and still have a vibration at high freeway speeds. It is not bad and balancing the tires tends to reduce the vibration somewhat.
Brakes are OE at 66,000 miles and still have at least half left. The car has the not uncommon Camry and Avalon braking rumble with heavy braking. Always been there. No pulsating.
The Clear Bra Treatement for those who drive in winter weather like you sound very smart. Had I known, I would have done the same. Let the forum know how much, where did you get it done, can you apply it yourself, etc. I am sure others may have a keen interest in this, as I may if not too pricey and I can do it myself.
CV joint problem: Hmmmmmmmm. A 96 Avalon with how many miles on it????? Were just the new boots put on or the CV joint(s) replaced??????Usually there is a "clicking" sound especially when the front wheel is turned and the car in motion. If the total mileage is 66K (on a 1996???/you don't drive much) and original brakes, Hmmmmmmmmm, and the CV joints are good to go, again,start from outside and outer circumference in. First the tires, balanced and round with even wear, then the wheels...runout good, out of round????, or dented....next is probably going to be the rotors. Although in the sevice algoritm, Toyota describes the alignment, wheel bearing and shocks. I don't think the alignment is going to make it shimmy, more vear to one side, or uneven tire wear, etc.
If your Toyota dealer is good, then should be able to find it easy, if no good, then take it to a reputable Wheel and Alignment/Spring shop.
If you can do it yourself, by all means. No one will take more time than you if you have the time.
All good posts. Keep the questions coming. I am wondering if Nomad56 got lost in traffic during the T-giving holiday.
abfisch
Did not want to drive it.
abfisch
Interested in how your shimmy problem worked out. IF you are out there, please "feed the forum" to help others.
abfisch