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Interesting post.. but this is all old news to the forum. The oil gel or sludge problems were endlessly debated here and blame was distributed all around - to lazy/cheap owners and to Toyota engineers alike. For me, we had both a '99 and an '03 Avalon. At least one had the subject oil gel prone engines, I always thought they both did. Put near 100k on each and both performed flawlessly, two of the best cars we ever owned. We now have an '07 Limited.
If your post is right the warranty repair period is running out on all but the last of these cars. The 8 years is up. To that extent, buyer beware, your post is a reminder. But the gel related failure rate was only 1 engine per 5000 cars, approx, so the odds are good you will not own one.
FYI: The specific conditions required for the formation of oil gel are truly unknown. It cannot be reproduced in the lab and the best minds in engineering have tried. The thermodynamic stress on ordinary oil as it lubricates is a complex study, synthetics have a distinct advantage in chemical composition as pointed out in another post above. Enjoy the Avalons - great cars...
It is clearly shown (on the inside of the fuse panel under the steering wheel) as being a 15 amp fuse. It is on the bottom row, and counting from right to left, is the third fuse (blue).
Of course, your problem could also be a burned out lighter element.
Try giving it a good shot of WD-40 and immediately run your key in and out multiple times to exercise the tumblers. If that works, you could follow it up with a few drops of household oil or silicone spray.
During the winter my 2004 Toyota Avalon directional signals and 4-way flashers stopped working on the coldest days - below freezing. After heating up they would work properly. The temperature that they stopped working has slowly gone up, so now they won't work below 70 degF. My mechanic changed the flasher relay, but that did not fix the problem. Anyone experience this problem and how did you fix it? I have not been able to find a schematic - suggestions appreciated. Thanks.
After much trouble and conferences with outside garage, I asked that they look carefully for contact corrosions. They then found evidence of corrosions and cleaned it up. Relays were not the problem. Electrical shorts were caused by moisture! Shorts even drained new battery!
In my case, I feel faulty windshield seal was the originating source of moisture. Passenger floor mat moisture was not melted snow from shoes! Electrical signal controls are in area in front of passenger and gave us fits before chance soluton was found! I did not need Service's expensive new computer solution to hanging relay and lighted icons!
I have a 2004 Avalon XLS. Had problem, at 20,000 miles with stiff steering and steering wheel wouldn't return to center after a turn. Diagnosis was lower steering shaft joint binding. Part was replaced. Toyota Corp. paid for part and I paid dealer for labor. I now have 35,000 miles on vehicle and the problem returned. Is anyone else having similar steering problems with their Avalon or is this an isolated case?
Hi ! My '95 Avalon's sound system has begun to make scratching, popping noises. At first, I thought I had a problem with the radio, but since it does the same thing in CD (12 disc trunk-mounted changer) mode, I believe the problem is with the amplifier. If so, is the amplifier mounted somewhere in the trunk space? Can it be easily removed ? Could I pick up a used one somewhere if a new one or repairs to existing unit prove to be too expensive ? I really LOVE my CD changer, and for the life of me still can't understand why Toyota changed from the magazine-loaded system to a dash mount unit.... Thanks, guys...
p.s. Car now has 193,000 miles on the clock, and runs just like a new one...
I am surprised this topic is not on this board. Unless I missed it, this problem seems to be a common problem with these cars and other Toyotas. I have received a 'check engine light' on my dash. I took the 2002 Avalon XLS to Auto Zone and was told the code is P1135. The printout also staes Air/Fuel sensor heater circuit response (bank 1/sensor 1). Other possible causes are #1 'open or short circuit condition' and possiblity #2 'poor electrical connection'.
My guess is that I need to replace the O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold next to the firewall. I will also check to see if the wire connector has come loose. I took it to my mechanic, and he reset the code. He did not have time to repair or research the problem, but he said it is possible the fuel intake experienced a slight trash issue. Anyway, he cleared the code, and by the time I got a block away, the light came back on.
I am curious if anyone else has had this issue. I would love to just be able to repair the problem, but I am a little leery about replacing the one O2 sensor and the problem is elsewhere.
Hopefully you are in luck. I have over $550 invested to fix it and they didn't, including toyota and outside garage. At lunch , I lucked out and business owner had had the problem with his truck. His service garage mechanic told him to reset the computer. Wow! I have done that too many times on this thing on the modem, so I shut off the power by disconnecting the battery terminals for a long delay. reconnect had effect of resetting the car computer. problem solved. He said you might have to do it again.I believe him as this has happened on this computer before! You get to reset the clock area but what a pleasure! Cost, zero! Good luck. Incidentally, garages both said no problems as indicated on dash warning lights.
I just purchased a 1998 Avalon XLS. It had only 87,900 miles. I took it to Meineke for pre-purchase inspection (PPI). The car is SOLID!!! It drives like magic. I noticed though that when braking from high speed (60mph and above) the steering kinda wiggle. What do you guys think the issue is?
Most likely warped front brake rotors and worn front brake pads... common on this first series Avalon. Front rotors were a weak point in an otherwise great car, had a '99 XL that went 90k and was near perfect... Enjoy the car..
Our 2003 XLS has passed 90K. The maintenance schedule calls for the drive belt to be replaced, which is labor-intensive and therefore expensive. It is also recommended that the water pump be changed, since the same disassembly is necessary anyway.
Have owners experienced problems from not changing the belt, or at least delaying it for 25K miles?
I presume you are referring to the Timing Belt change here.
I experienced the same dilemma when my 2000 XLS reached 90K and I referred it to my trusted mechanic to help me arrive at a decision . However, it was his opinion that the car could easily go another 10 or 20 K miles based on his experience of working with similar cars where the timing belt was almost new even when it was replaced at 120K miles.
My car has crossed 107K now without replacement and touchwood there are no issues till now.
He also informed me that the Avalons have a non-interference engines - what that means is that the timing belts cause very little damage even if they break in operation.
IMO if you are planning on keeping the car for a good bit longer (either miles or time) just go ahead and do it. If you do it now and drive the even for a another 100K you won't have to do it again. Its just piece of mind. OTOH if you are planning on dumping it in a year, then you will probably be safe and let the next owner worry about it.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
We are also pushing 90k on our 03, but we travel to Arizona. Would hate to snap it enroute. On the other hand, ours is in a nice garage most of the time and not out in a hot parking lot or -20 below. Pampered little thing in that regard, but I have heard a rumor that it may run at 90-100 mph on some open stretches in the SW. I may try to sneak one more trip in.
The other question is, how long do we keep it. With the suspension upgrade, we love the way this car drives, yet the value will now drop off a cliff, so to keep it means to run it til it drops. Here again. those trips must be considered. On the positive side though, I have the potential to drop 5-6k in value. Guess what the hit would be with a new/newer car. Not to mention the higher license, insurance depreciation etc. I keep trying out new models of various brands but fortunately, we still prefer to drive the Avalon - mostly due to the suspension upgrade, KYB GR2 struts and Energy sway bar bushings. Lucky duckies. Makes the choice much easier.
The new BMW 5 series in on the radar after it depreciates a few years. Would like to drive the new LaCrosse, but will depreciation still be an issue? The new Av is too much of a barge for me. Now if they would come out with an Avalon Sport by getting rid of those seldom used (Never for us) adjustable rear seats, and cut out that much space, then put our suspension under it with more aggressive body kit, they would be back in the game for us and have another new product with almost no development cost. Ya hearing me Toyota? What do the rest of you think? Of course, those most interested are probably not in this forum. Another reason to do it - another pool of prospective buyers that would not normally buy a Toyota.
OK, that's enough food for thought to chew on.
But wait - there's more. Look what I just found on a new owner review of the 2011 AV.
"Suggested Improvements
Love the car but would like to see a sport package as an available option for the Limited. Sportier suspension, better bolstered front seats & more road feel in the steering would be nice."
"Suggested Improvements
Could use a little of the Buick Lacrosse 'ambient' lighting to add a little 'pizazz' to a bland interior lighting scheme"
They tried a "Touring" edition for a few years after the intro of the 05. Obviously sales were weak because they dropped it. I test drove it, it was just a little firmer than an XLS/Limited. Think the difference between a regular Camry and an SE.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
Yup. Still a tank though. I just don't want something that big, but don't want a Camry either. Would like a more agressive appearance too. I think it would bring in younger buyers.
All of a sudden my CD changer is working intermittently and sends out ERROR 1 and ERROR 3 messages. For some reason it plays original CDS fairly well, although with some pauses, but when it comes to ripped CDs it will play probably one track or two then go silent. So does anybody know what these error codes mean?
I played the same CDs on my computer and they play just fine but in the CD changer it is a nightmare. Has anyone ever experienced this problem, if so how did you fix it? I am also beginning to think the CD changer needs cleaning, if so, how do I do that?
Any suggestions offered would be truly appreciated.
My XLS 2004 Avalon has been making moaning noise when I back up and go forward. Of course, I only hear it went I am backing out of garage and driveway starting up and also if I go forward when starting up. Are leaving for a vacation in a few days and am afraid because my friends tie broke off and buckled under as she was pulling into her driveway today. She too said she had heard a moaning noise for quite some time. Have been hearing this noise since the beginning of March or nearly 3 months. Had it check; couldnt find anything. They said it would probably go away; no big problem. It hasnt gone away and I fear something happening while we are driving at great speeds on the interstate. Anybody have any ideas???? ......Dee D.
The 12 V power outlet in the storage compartment between the 2 front seats doesn't seem to be working in my 2000 Avy. Anyone knows where to look for a blown fuse which I can check ?
Has anyone investigated switching the front bucket seats on an '03 or similar Avalon in order to even the wear? I have about 94K miles on the car, love the car, and plan on keeping it forever.
I saw on TV that Toyota has recalled the '00 - 04 Avalon but I'm not sure what for. Now, I am feeling guilty about that since I traded my Avalon two weeks ago to a Buick dealer who might not tell the new owner about the recall.
"According to the Japanese automaker, the full-size sedans' steering lock bars can crack, eventually leading to a break. If that failure occurs, the steering column interlock system can become difficult to unlock when parked, potentially disabling the vehicle. Worse, if the driver is in a right-hand turn with "sufficient lateral acceleration," under very specific conditions, the damaged lock bar can actually engage, locking the steering wheel and disabling steering control of the vehicle, a condition that increases the likelihood of an accident."
Dealers for major manufacturers are supposed to have a system in place that ensures subsequent buyers will receive notification of the recall. Notices are being sent out in August.
What causes the mileage of a 2000 XLS to go down from a highway mileage of 29 mpg, and city of 22 mpg down to about 24 highway, and 20 city? I have only about 73,000 miles on it. I never did tune it since it runs beautifully and has lots of power. I did all required maintenance except for a tuneup. Do I need to do that, or should I have the injectors cleaned? All you owners out there, did you have similar experiences? Any suggestion would be welcome.
Has your maintenance schedule included regularly changing the automatic transmission fluid? We flush ours every 30K (a full flush, not just replacing the amount that drains). The Avalon seems rather hard on transmission fluid, and sticky, gummy fluid can't help gas mileage. We also changed our spark plugs at 75K. Other than occasionally adding Techron, we have not cleaned the injectors.
I have an '03 Avalon with 96k miles. I believe that I am somewhat of an 'over-maintainer', someone that generally maintains cars on the 'conservative' side. I use only synthetic oils everywhere (engine, trans, grease, etc) on my cars. I only replace the trans fluid every 30K; there is never a need to 'flush' anything except the brake fluid, occasionally. Just remove 'both' drain plugs, then refill. With synthetic fluids and regular changes, you should never see any gum anywhere. Spark plugs (platinum) should have gone between 100K-120K miles. Techron, while I believe it to be good stuff; I use it only once a year when I take off for a road-trip.
There is in fact only one drain plug on the transmission, and draining the fluid will yield about 4 quarts, leaving 8 quarts in the torque converter. There is a very informative article on flushing the transmission in these Edmunds Avalon pages - "DIY flushing of an Avalon transmission". The procedure involves detaching the transmission fluid return line from the radiator. My mechanic uses a simpler technique - he drains the 4 quarts, replaces the plug and refills with 4 fresh quarts. He warms up the transmission again, and repeats the process twice. Basic arithmetic shows that you now have 70% of your fluid "fresh".
Most Toyota dealers do not flush the A/T. This is not because it is not desirable, but is more related to the changing nature of Toyota A/T's. From 2005 onwards Avalon transmissions are filled with synthetic fluid, and Toyota requires its dealers to have a synthetic-only flushing machine. The majority of dealers don't want to invest in this equipment, and therefore promote the mantra that synthetic fluid never needs to be changed.
I am curious as to how you changed from regular fluid to synthetic. Toyota recommends a full flush, a refill, and another flush and refill. You cannot mix synthetic with regular.
I see that you "change" your synthetic fluid every 30K miles. I do the same thing with the synthetic engine oil in my turbocharged Saab (every 5K). Some oil companies give the impression you rarely need to change synthetic engine oil - don't believe that for a moment!
You are right about the plugs having a 100K life. I changed mine early because I had removed much of the induction system to repair an Idle Control Valve, and I was able - with difficulty - to access the rear bank of plugs.
'Flushing' is good theory, rarely needed in practice, as you say. Sounds like your mechanic has it right. I took my 98 Avalon over 265K miles without any problems with my 'drain' procedure. If you want to pay for the flush, unnecessary by your admission, then I am certain that the dealer will take your money. I remove both the vertical plug (located at the bottom of the pan), and the horizontal plug (located at the bottom, rear of the unit), for my fluid changes. With regard to the substitution of synthetic for regular fluid. The two are easily compatible, just as in the engine oils commonly used today. With regard to what Toyota says... what do you expect them to say!?
If the "3 times fluid change" works for your car and mechanic....ok...
But, using a full refill of 12 quarts of new transmission fluid to get a 70% concentration of new fluid makes no sense. If you have 70% new fluid you would expect 70% of the standard life, by average, to the next change. Where's the gain?
You buy 12 quarts of fluid, 100% of the total refill, for 70% of the protection. Why do that?
And put another way, the mechanic expects the 30% remaining in the converter to last 60k miles when it was designed for 30k. Wow. Again, if it works..... ok.... but long term, this should shorten the life of the transmission, especially if you pull a trailer or drive long stretches in the mountains or desert.
I got the recall notice today on my 2000 Avalon for the steering column upper bracket defect. There have been six failures, three of which allegedly resulted in accidents, none involved injury. Five years of production 2000-2004 and only six instances of failure!
I don't think I am going to spend half a day in the dealers waiting room to have something this minor replaced. What other damage will the dealer do attempting the repair?
I have crossed 115000 miles on my 2000 Avy and have recently had the ABS, VSC and VSC off lights turn on when I start my car . However, the lights go off when I turn off the car and turn it on again. This has happened about 4 times in the past 10 days.
Any clues whether this is a sign for some major trouble in the future ? I did have all the 4 rotors and pads replaced 1000 miles ago. Haven't really checked out if any codes are returned. I've read on the forum that this is somehow related to the steering position sensor and also know that there is currently a recall for some steering part related issue for this generation Avalons. I'm yet to receive a recall notice appointment for my car though.
Did anyone else on this forum have seen similar issues ?
My 02 has similar trouble with VSC & Off but also the engine icon. I was told I needed a new Computer for engine @ $1600.00 installed. I went elsewhere & spent $550. They say I don't need a new computer according to their computer. Then I learn from a friend that his mechanic says there is a computer running these cars, so what do we do? Shut it off! Wow! Simple. Turn it off. How? Disconnect a battery terminal. I use the red positive, for about 30 seconds and reconnect. You get to reset radio, clock & other memories, but it beats the price they want for a new computer! repeats pop up, but I can raise the hood a use a wrench once in a while. Oh, both garages say no troubles with what lights denote as trouble!! Toyota says likely will help gas mileage somewhat. Now, if this computer can be reprogrammed with a fix, why can't Toyota techs do the same for these car computers? Media reveals Toyota car computer problems. Looks like it! good Luck!
Left rear door won't open. Child protection latch was on, so that it could only be opened from the outside. The outside handle suddenly stopped working, so now I can't open the door at all. Impossible to completely remove the inside door panel, but can get the top of it back far enough to reach inside the door; however, I can't seem to find a way to manually unlatch the door.
Update : Just crossed 118000 miles and also got the steering column bracket replaced under warranty recall. The ABS light comes off quite regularly now, however, i have to just kill the ignition and turn it on again to make it disappear.
I have been facing a strange issue with my 2000 Avy since the past days which is close to 119 K miles now.
I have felt noticeable vibrations in steering wheel as soon I cross 65-70 mph. What's strange is that this behaviour does not repeat every time I reach such speeds but only intermittently.
My first doubt was that the wheels were out of balance so I reached out to Costco Tire Dept and they confirmed that all the wheels were perfectly balanced.
One point worth mentioning that One of my front wheels was stuck in snow which braced North East after the Christmas weekend. I did drive about 10-12 miles with one of the wheels covered with ice when this issue first surfaced. However, the ice is completely gone now but the intermittent virbrations remain.
Could I have caused some damage to the front suspension components by driving with one of the wheels snow covered on that day which has caused this issue?
Hi, I had the exact same problem about an year ago. I was recommended to change the ECU(~2K) of the vehicle to resolve the issue.
That is a rip off... Usually toyota ECU's are really strong.
After spending couple of hundreds over the mechanics to trouble shoot ...
I just studied the ABS flow and changed the ABS relay (Blue RELAY under the hood) and kaboooossh... its gone... I have put on about 20K after I changed the relay but never saw those lights coming on. My 00 Avalon has 99K on it and still runs strong.. And in the last year's snow I could feel the abs working as intended..
Relay is about 43$ at the dealer.. but I bought for 10$ over ebay.
My 2000 XLS is now eleven years old with 99,000 miles. It will open my garage door from 100 yards. I have never seen any degradation in its ability to open the garage door.
I have a separate commercial garage door opener in addition to the built-in one that came with the Avalon. Each has the exact same range - about 40 yards in my slightly-obstructed approach to the garage - plenty of time for the door to open completely by the time I arrive. My 2003 Avalon XLS has 112,000 miles.
Comments
If your post is right the warranty repair period is running out on all but the last of these cars. The 8 years is up. To that extent, buyer beware, your post is a reminder. But the gel related failure rate was only 1 engine per 5000 cars, approx, so the odds are good you will not own one.
FYI: The specific conditions required for the formation of oil gel are truly unknown. It cannot be reproduced in the lab and the best minds in engineering have tried. The thermodynamic stress on ordinary oil as it lubricates is a complex study, synthetics have a distinct advantage in chemical composition as pointed out in another post above.
Enjoy the Avalons - great cars...
Can anyone help?
Thanks
Of course, your problem could also be a burned out lighter element.
After heating up they would work properly. The temperature that they stopped working has slowly gone up, so now they won't work below 70 degF.
My mechanic changed the flasher relay, but that did not fix the problem.
Anyone experience this problem and how did you fix it?
I have not been able to find a schematic - suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
In my case, I feel faulty windshield seal was the originating source of moisture. Passenger floor mat moisture was not melted snow from shoes! Electrical signal controls are in area in front of passenger and gave us fits before chance soluton was found!
I did not need Service's expensive new computer solution to hanging relay and lighted icons!
My '95 Avalon's sound system has begun to make scratching, popping noises. At first, I thought I had a problem with the radio, but since it does the same thing in CD (12 disc trunk-mounted changer) mode, I believe the problem is with the amplifier. If so, is the amplifier mounted somewhere in the trunk space? Can it be easily removed ? Could I pick up a used one somewhere if a new one or repairs to existing unit prove to be too expensive ? I really LOVE my CD changer, and for the life of me still can't understand why Toyota changed from the magazine-loaded system to a dash mount unit.... Thanks, guys...
p.s. Car now has 193,000 miles on the clock, and runs just like a new one...
My guess is that I need to replace the O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold next to the firewall. I will also check to see if the wire connector has come loose. I took it to my mechanic, and he reset the code. He did not have time to repair or research the problem, but he said it is possible the fuel intake experienced a slight trash issue. Anyway, he cleared the code, and by the time I got a block away, the light came back on.
I am curious if anyone else has had this issue. I would love to just be able to repair the problem, but I am a little leery about replacing the one O2 sensor and the problem is elsewhere.
Thanks,
Dean
I will greatly appreciate comments.
Have owners experienced problems from not changing the belt, or at least delaying it for 25K miles?
I experienced the same dilemma when my 2000 XLS reached 90K and I referred it to my trusted mechanic to help me arrive at a decision . However, it was his opinion that the car could easily go another 10 or 20 K miles based on his experience of working with similar cars where the timing belt was almost new even when it was replaced at 120K miles.
My car has crossed 107K now without replacement and touchwood there are no issues till now.
He also informed me that the Avalons have a non-interference engines - what that means is that the timing belts cause very little damage even if they break in operation.
Hope this helps
~A
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
Don't gamble with an interference engine.
We are also pushing 90k on our 03, but we travel to Arizona. Would hate to snap it enroute. On the other hand, ours is in a nice garage most of the time and not out in a hot parking lot or -20 below. Pampered little thing in that regard, but I have heard a rumor that it may run at 90-100 mph on some open stretches in the SW. I may try to sneak one more trip in.
The other question is, how long do we keep it. With the suspension upgrade, we love the way this car drives, yet the value will now drop off a cliff, so to keep it means to run it til it drops. Here again. those trips must be considered. On the positive side though, I have the potential to drop 5-6k in value. Guess what the hit would be with a new/newer car. Not to mention the higher license, insurance depreciation etc. I keep trying out new models of various brands but fortunately, we still prefer to drive the Avalon - mostly due to the suspension upgrade, KYB GR2 struts and Energy sway bar bushings. Lucky duckies. Makes the choice much easier.
The new BMW 5 series in on the radar after it depreciates a few years. Would like to drive the new LaCrosse, but will depreciation still be an issue? The new Av is too much of a barge for me. Now if they would come out with an Avalon Sport by getting rid of those seldom used (Never for us) adjustable rear seats, and cut out that much space, then put our suspension under it with more aggressive body kit, they would be back in the game for us and have another new product with almost no development cost. Ya hearing me Toyota? What do the rest of you think? Of course, those most interested are probably not in this forum. Another reason to do it - another pool of prospective buyers that would not normally buy a Toyota.
OK, that's enough food for thought to chew on.
But wait - there's more. Look what I just found on a new owner review of the 2011 AV.
"Suggested Improvements
Love the car but would like to see a sport package as an available option for the Limited. Sportier suspension, better bolstered front seats & more road feel in the steering would be nice."
"Suggested Improvements
Could use a little of the Buick Lacrosse 'ambient' lighting to add a little 'pizazz' to a bland interior lighting scheme"
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
I played the same CDs on my computer and they play just fine but in the CD changer it is a nightmare. Has anyone ever experienced this problem, if so how did you fix it? I am also beginning to think the CD changer needs cleaning, if so, how do I do that?
Any suggestions offered would be truly appreciated.
Are leaving for a vacation in a few days and am afraid because my friends tie broke off and buckled under as she was pulling into her driveway today. She too said she had heard a moaning noise for quite some time.
Have been hearing this noise since the beginning of March or nearly 3 months.
Had it check; couldnt find anything. They said it would probably go away; no big problem. It hasnt gone away and I fear something happening while we are driving at great speeds on the interstate.
Anybody have any ideas???? ......Dee D.
Thanks.
~A
I suspect it's the brake pads vibrating in the calipers, but that's only a guess.
Dealers for major manufacturers are supposed to have a system in place that ensures subsequent buyers will receive notification of the recall. Notices are being sent out in August.
I have only about 73,000 miles on it. I never did tune it since it runs beautifully and has lots of power.
I did all required maintenance except for a tuneup. Do I need to do that, or should I have the injectors cleaned?
All you owners out there, did you have similar experiences?
Any suggestion would be welcome.
Most Toyota dealers do not flush the A/T. This is not because it is not desirable, but is more related to the changing nature of Toyota A/T's. From 2005 onwards Avalon transmissions are filled with synthetic fluid, and Toyota requires its dealers to have a synthetic-only flushing machine. The majority of dealers don't want to invest in this equipment, and therefore promote the mantra that synthetic fluid never needs to be changed.
I am curious as to how you changed from regular fluid to synthetic. Toyota recommends a full flush, a refill, and another flush and refill. You cannot mix synthetic with regular.
I see that you "change" your synthetic fluid every 30K miles. I do the same thing with the synthetic engine oil in my turbocharged Saab (every 5K). Some oil companies give the impression you rarely need to change synthetic engine oil - don't believe that for a moment!
You are right about the plugs having a 100K life. I changed mine early because I had removed much of the induction system to repair an Idle Control Valve, and I was able - with difficulty - to access the rear bank of plugs.
I remove both the vertical plug (located at the bottom of the pan), and the horizontal plug (located at the bottom, rear of the unit), for my fluid changes.
With regard to the substitution of synthetic for regular fluid. The two are easily compatible, just as in the engine oils commonly used today.
With regard to what Toyota says... what do you expect them to say!?
But, using a full refill of 12 quarts of new transmission fluid to get a 70% concentration of new fluid makes no sense. If you have 70% new fluid you would expect 70% of the standard life, by average, to the next change. Where's the gain?
You buy 12 quarts of fluid, 100% of the total refill, for 70% of the protection. Why do that?
And put another way, the mechanic expects the 30% remaining in the converter to last 60k miles when it was designed for 30k. Wow.
Again, if it works..... ok.... but long term, this should shorten the life of the transmission, especially if you pull a trailer or drive long stretches in the mountains or desert.
I don't think I am going to spend half a day in the dealers waiting room to have something this minor replaced. What other damage will the dealer do attempting the repair?
Any clues whether this is a sign for some major trouble in the future ? I did have all the 4 rotors and pads replaced 1000 miles ago. Haven't really checked out if any codes are returned. I've read on the forum that this is somehow related to the steering position sensor and also know that there is currently a recall for some steering part related issue for this generation Avalons. I'm yet to receive a recall notice appointment for my car though.
Did anyone else on this forum have seen similar issues ?
~A
I went elsewhere & spent $550. They say I don't need a new computer according to their computer.
Then I learn from a friend that his mechanic says there is a computer running these cars, so what do we do? Shut it off! Wow! Simple. Turn it off. How? Disconnect a battery terminal. I use the red positive, for about 30 seconds and reconnect. You get to reset radio, clock & other memories, but it beats the price they want for a new computer! repeats pop up, but I can raise the hood a use a wrench once in a while.
Oh, both garages say no troubles with what lights denote as trouble!!
Toyota says likely will help gas mileage somewhat.
Now, if this computer can be reprogrammed with a fix, why can't Toyota techs do the same for these car computers? Media reveals Toyota car computer problems. Looks like it! good Luck!
Any ideas? 1998 Avalon.
Thanks.
Bryan
Any clue guys what could be wrong ?
~A
any idea on howdy ya locate and clean the wheel sensor for a 2000 Avalon ?
is this a DIY or do I have to take it to a shop ?
~A
I have been facing a strange issue with my 2000 Avy since the past days which is close to 119 K miles now.
I have felt noticeable vibrations in steering wheel as soon I cross 65-70 mph. What's strange is that this behaviour does not repeat
every time I reach such speeds but only intermittently.
My first doubt was that the wheels were out of balance so I reached out to Costco Tire Dept and they confirmed that all the wheels were
perfectly balanced.
One point worth mentioning that One of my front wheels was stuck in snow which braced North East after the Christmas weekend. I did
drive about 10-12 miles with one of the wheels covered with ice when this issue first surfaced. However, the ice is completely gone now
but the intermittent virbrations remain.
Could I have caused some damage to the front suspension components by driving with one of the wheels snow covered on that day which has caused this issue?
Has anyone else experienced this before ?
~A
I had the exact same problem about an year ago. I was recommended to change the ECU(~2K) of the vehicle to resolve the issue.
That is a rip off... Usually toyota ECU's are really strong.
After spending couple of hundreds over the mechanics to trouble shoot ...
I just studied the ABS flow and changed the ABS relay (Blue RELAY under the hood) and kaboooossh... its gone... I have put on about 20K after I changed the relay but never saw those lights coming on. My 00 Avalon has 99K on it and still runs strong.. And in the last year's snow I could feel the abs working as intended..
Relay is about 43$ at the dealer.. but I bought for 10$ over ebay.
Try that before you think of something else..
Good Luck.
-H
Hope this works in my situation too. Would you be able to post a link to the ebay item so that I can also order and see if it works ?
~A
this is what I searched for on EBay. " 88263-24020"
That would be the product number.
Actual part is :
Toyota Denso Blue Relay 88263-24020 12V OEM. The same relay is used for Lexus.
good luck
Did you buy yourself one of these used ones ?
~A