The only warranty I would buy is the GMPP which is available as long as your original factory warranty is still in effect. We just bought one for our 02 Trailblazer since it's been reported to be somewhat problematic (we haven't had any problems, knock on wood). I was going to extend the warranty on my 04 GA GT since I'm over 24K now, but my wife is a financial manager and was running around with a spreadsheet showing why it's better to wait until I'm closer to the mileage expiration at 36K so I just said whatever.
Ok guys. I will try to keep this as short as possible. The other day my GF's 00 Alero dies on her when she came to a stop. I drove it home for her and without any electrical items in it seemed to run fine. No fan, radio etc. As i was getting towards home it turned on the fan and noticed a very significant voltage drop. The car didn't die but nearly. As I started to come to a stop for my driveway, i noticed that the car was coming down to idle at about 2500 RPM. I could barely stop the car. I checked the pedal and it ws not stuck and I shut off the car. When I started it back up all was fine. I drove some more and after turning on the blower the car would idle sporadictly, occasionaly die and sometimes it would idle anywhere from 2000 - 4000 RPM. I took out the battery and realized that the area around the side post terinal threads had broken away. The plastic was actually broken to the point where i pulled off the battery connector without un screwing it. I figured this was the problem because when the car needed to draw more amps for stuff it wasn't getting a good connection. I got a new battery and all was fine for 2-3 days. All of a sudden yesterday, my Gf says it happened to her again. AAAAAH. Any ideas anyone? Is there some kind of electrical module that could be going / gone bad? Could this be caused by the alternator going? It seems odd that all was fine for a few days and then the symptoms returned
I have a 2004 alero...my car slowed down and stop the other day. It don't make any noise. I want to know the problem it's still under warranty...the dealer said I need a new fuel injector filter but it's not under warranty..it has alot of trash in it and will cost $150.00...I don't think that was the problem because My Engine light and battery came on...
I just had a set of all season Avons put on my daughters 2001 Alero. The tires are noted for developing a "flat spot" if left sitting for a while, and combined with the cold, I noticed a bumping noise when I took the car out. I'm not too concerned with that, because the flat spots are suppose to disappear after being driven for a few miles. However, I am concerned that the anti-lock brake and low traction light came on when making a sharp left turn. It only stays on until the next time the car is started, but it's done this twice. I'm sure it's tire related, but wonder if the installers could have done something to mess up the anti-lock system. Any thoughts?
Update...Brought the car into the local Pontiac dealer and they said the right front hub needed to be replaced. Cost $340. Car has 27,000 miles on it and has been a garage car. Those Accords are looking better and better all the time.
I wouldn't dump the car just yet over a $340 repair bill. When the ABS sensor fails on a Lexus RX300 (my other car) it costs over $1000. to get it fixed. I have a 2000 Alero and even with the intake manifold gasket failure and some warped rotors it has been one of the best cars I have ever owned.
I have the Bridgestone Potenza G-009 on my 2000 Oldsmobile Alero GLS coupe and have been very impressed with them. They handle much better the the Goodyear Eagles. They preformed well in what snow we have gotten up here in western South Dakota so far this year. I would recommend them.
About a month ago, the air bag light on the dash came on. I spoke with the dealership, and they said it means that the air bags may not deploy in a accident. Anyone else have this problem ?? What was the problem ?? How much did it cost too have repaired ??
Anyone replace the craptory 6X9's in a Alero ?? The 6X9's I bought will not fit under the stock grills. Anyways, does the carpet on the rear deck run under the grills ??? Or will I need too re carpet the rear deck ???
I had an appt. to have the mysterious warning lights malfunction repaired, but had to cancel to make an emergency road trip to an ill relative's bedside. In the intervening 2000 mi., the electric driver seat stopped working, the driver power window stopped working then started working again, the odometer stopped about 800 mi. ago (though the trip odo still works), and I got a strong smell of gasoline n the cabin upon restarting the car every time I pulled over for a rest stop or refueling. Should be interesting to see what the dealer says about all this. I have an appt. on Tues. 5 yr. factory warranty runs out in February.
You weren't clear on whether the hub replacement was required to repair a faulty ABS sensor or the the front wheel bearing - they are integrated into one sealed unit. If it's the front wheel bearing that needed replacing that is a common problem with Aleros, and at low mileage too.
We had both of ours replaced before it hit 60,000 miles -- had 140,000 miles on our previous '95 Corsica and '87 Taurus and they had the original front wheel bearings.
Just had to have the intake manifold gasket replaced on my Alero. Can someone point me to a copy of the technical service bulletin admitting this problem? I want Olds to cover this repair. The dealership knew the problem without even looking at the car.
I think there was a TSB or other type of bulletin talking about a re-design of the intake manifold gasket but never one actually admitting a problem. Do a search on "intake manifold" or see message #2695 if you want Olds to pay 50% of repair.
I have a 1999 Olds Alero that does not have factory keyless entry. I also have a 2001 Olds Alero "salvage car" that does have keyless entry. Can the keyless entry from the 2001 be taken out and put in the 1999 without much effort? Does anyone know what parts need to be replaced?
Left my 01 with the electrical gremlins (by appointment) with the dealer on Tues early a.m. No call by 1, so I called. No info, but I was promised a return call. No call by 4:30, so I called again. "Uhhhh, we need more time."
No call by 4:30 yesterday either, so I called again. "Electrical problems are difficult to fix." No estimated time for completion. No apology for the lack of communication, or inconvenience of being without a car for (now, Thurs.) 3 days.
No explanation for why when I bought the car they said they provided loaners for repairs taking more than 3 hrs., and they don't offer one now on the 3rd day.
I told them I have to go out of town on Sat. and need the car back. I was given no promises, only that the service tech would be informed.
I'm really fed up. I've been unusually polite and restrained so far, but if they leave me hanging without word at 4:30 again today, they'll see "the other side of midnight" with me!
I was actually just checking to see if you have found anything out about the airbag light I have a 99 alero and have the same thing. I am a little worried about the effects if will have on passing inspection. Any help you could give would be appreciated.
I had the same thing happen on my '99 Alero. I brought it to the dealer and found that the accelerometer that is under the passenger seat got really corroded by moisture. They had to replace it as well as the connectors on the wiring harness that connect to it. All in all I think it came to about $ 450.
Just got word that a week and a day in the shop has apparently done the trick, and my '01, complete with new instrument cluster and power seat motor, is ready. I'll be glad to have it back, since the loaner I finally got last Friday was an extended wheelbase minivan -- what a monster! I'm not used to navigating in parking lots with such a beast.
In the owner's manual for my 04 Alero it says to change the tranny fluid and filter every 50000 miles if it sees hard use such as towing,driving in hills,lots of stop and start driving,etc. It says if you don't do this type of driving that it never needs to be changed. This didn't sound right to me so I called the local GM dealer's service dept. and the service writer said that although the book says that that he recommends changing it at 50000 anyway. Anybody have an opinion on this? I live in a suburban area and car is driven about 8 miles each way to work with a few redlights on the route but not an excessive amount like driving in the city. Also the manual doesn't mention anything about changing the fuel filter.I also asked the dealership about this and they recommended every 30000 miles which sounds right to me. Was just wondering how well these transmissions hold up if you don't service them if they are not used under harsh conditions.Car has the 2.2 4 cylinder engine.
I would do it just for good maintenance, but your use may not be considered severe. Heavy stop and go driving like busy freeway communting or city driving in large metropolitan areas is severe, besides the things listed in the manual. I checked into the fuel filter and the consensus was that it should never need to be changed for most of us, as long as you use a good brand of fuel. If for some reason your area is known to have fuel quality problems then I suppose it's good peace of mind to do it. My 99 Grand Am had over 100K when it was totaled in a collision and I had never changed the fuel filter, even though I did buy a new one, it's still on the shelf where I left it. I don't know if it will fit my 04 or not, I suspect it will.
The new instrument cluster in my Alero shows lower RPMs than the old one ever did (even before it went on the blink) - both at idle and while driving. I wonder which is accurate??? Could it be that the calibration is off in the new cluster (either because it's for the 2.2 instead of the 2.4l engine, or because it doesn't take into account the "sport suspension" and its tire size)?
Two days back in my possession, and, after being parked all day in a rainstorm, I notice that the right front floorboard is wet under the dashboard. I had noticed water dripping under the glove box once after a car wash, but was in denial and dismissed it as the car wash high pressure water getting into a vent or something. Guess it's more than that. Back to the dealer Monday. 1 month left in the warranty.
I sold my 1986 Ford F-150 to buy a car with better fuel economy. Found a used 2001 alero, I figured I'd try my first GM. What a BIG mistake. It is a nice car, in and out, but I keep getting warning lights on the dash, this time the " service engine soon,anti-lock brake and trac off" lights come on. If I plug in my scanner, I get no codes. IF i shut off the car after the lights come on and re start the car, the lights don't come back on. Some times I can drive it for weeks and nothing happens, if it's cold out then everything starts again. Any one with any info? By the way it has 86.5 K miles with all the bells and whistles, inside and out looks like new and a 30 k extended warranty, if anyone is interested.
Sounds like the same thing that just happened to mine. A short in the instrument cluster was the alleged diagnosis. They replaced the whole cluster (and gouged the leather on the steering wheel getting it in).
Bad seals on the windshield have been diagnosed as the cause of the water leaks, and I am told that my warranty (which when I bought the car was presented as a 5 yr/50K mi. deal) was actually a factory warranty for 3 yr./36K mi. and an extended GM warranty product paid by Olds for the balance of the 5 yr./50K mi. Gotta love those undisclosed technicalities! This non-factory but still GM "warranty" doesn't cover assembly defects, only mechanical failure, so I'm on the hook for replacement of the windshield seals -- over $200.
I am a (to date) happy original owner of a 2001 Alero GX 5spd sedan. This station car has served me very well thus far. I purchased her from a dealer about 60 miles from my home (hey, 5spd GX sedans were not easy to find).
There was only one interior moulding that needed replacing when the car was new and I brought it to the local Olds dealer (Gidron in Yonkers NY) and they managed to scratch my brand new car terribly on both the front and rear bumpers (which they has to repair... but I was pissed). I can honestly say they were horrble.
Anyhow since that tumultuous beginning, the car has never been back to the dealer for a warrnaty repair.
But recently the drivers side interior floor has been wet. Very wet. Definitely a water leak (though I have not ever seen the actual dripping water). I see issyvoo has some similar problems... and his dealer is saying the windshield seal is the problem.... I've seen other posts talk about deal issues around the doors. Anyone else have any ideas on what the issue may be? And most importantly, were the dealers able to correct on the first visit?
I plan on bringing the Alero to another dealer that I purchased 2 GMC trucks that also sold Olds' that is also about 60 miles away. They have an excellent service dept (Park Cadi Ponti GMC in New Milford CT) but wanted to have some idea what I might be in for with this fix. I hate to trade her in (she is low miles... like 25k).
She is under the second part of the 5/50 warranty....
I see you are from the same general area I am from. If you ever want to take the car in for a second opinion to a real good GM service dept... go with Park Cadi in New Milford CT. I-84 Exit 7...
I hope they will pull a miracle with the Alero leak (that I did not buy there).
Oh and my dome light recently stopped working in the 'door' mode. Maybe it is time for a trade... maybe the CTS stripper with the 5 spd!!!
Good luck with an easy and painless solution for your water leak! My '01 GL2 is a 5 sp. as well. Until recently with the instrument panel replacement and water leak I've been quite pleased with it. I'm praying they don't break the windshield when they remove it to replace the seals tomorrow. (Of course, what's not to like when you keep a car in the garage for 4 of its 5 years, only taking it out for nice, long drives in good weather.) Like you, low mileage (24K). I only started using it as a daily driver (like you, to Metro North station) last year. It doesn't make financial sense to trade in, but I admit I'm losing confidence and have been doing some research on other (non-GM) offerings... If I had to replace the Alero tomorrow, I'd probably go with a 5sp. manual Mazda 6.
I HAVE A 2000 4 DR AND I HAVE BOUGHT THE REPLACEMENT CLIPS FOR THE FRONT WINDOW BUT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THEY ARE THE SAME(INTERCHANGEABLE) FOR DRIVERS/PASSENGER SIDE. I WONDER IF THEY WOULD WORK FOR A 2 DOOR EVEN THOUGH THE WINDOW IS LARGER?
I bought my daughters 2001 Alero new and at the time GM was offering what I thought was the extended warranty at no cost. Turns out it's a maintenance warranty, which pays for oil changes and tire rotations. Sent in the last 5 years of oil change receipts to GM and got a check for $300. That will just about pay for the front wheel hub that needed to be replaced at 27,000 miles. I have been fortunate so far, the only other expense was a brake job at 20,000 miles. I have always purchased GM, but will begin to look at Honda and Toyota. I like the dealer, but GM is turning out a lot of crap and have been for a long time.
It gets replaced. They have been known to leak on the Alero. Independent gets about $75 for replacement and dealer gets over $100. But first you need to determine if it's leaking.
Is it a known issue for both the 4 and the 6 engines, or just one of the 2? I notice a strong fuel smell upon "warm" restart if I've been doing a lot of highway driving. Could this be the same issue you think?
I know it is a problem with the 6 Cylinder and I thought I remember reading about 4 cylinders also having the problem. I did a search both here and on the Grand Am forum and came up with nothing. If your fuel pressure is leaking it should look stained or wet. Here is a link with a picture of the Alero fuel pressure regulator from a parts site. This should help you find it on your engine. http://www.autopart.com/fpr/fpr2004OLDSMOBILEALERO.htm
I'm a newbie here-- I forgot to title my last post--- Forgive Me. Here is some information that may help some of you. The initial link is to a bulletin from GM Engineering as it applies to GM Fleet Trucks and Vans. Following that, there is a re-write of the same bulletin so that we can apply it to GM cars. I used this Modification on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero as a Permanent Disablement of Passlock.I did not install a remote starter. It works great. http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf
PASSLOCK I or II DISABLEMENT
The following is a procedure to disable Passlock I or II Systems for vehicles in which remote start/stop system installations are required. This procedure is required because a remote start system will not function with the current Theft Deterrent System (Passlock) which is included on many 1996 and up GM vehicles.
Please note that this modification is intended to be used only in conjunction with the installation of a remote start/stop system and does not provide a procedure to install a remote start/stop system.
CAUSE If an attempt is made to start a vehicle by a means other than a key rotation in the ignition switch, the Body Control Module (BCM) will interpret this start as a vehicle theft and disable the fuel injectors.
CORRECTION A minor wiring modification may be made to allow the vehicle to be started remotely. This modification includes adding a switch to allow the customer to select “ON” to allow remote starting or “OFF” for normal Passlock operation.
CAUTION: When this modification is performed and the switch is set to the ON position, the theft deterrent feature will be disabled. When the theft deterrent is disabled the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM telltale will light up indicating that the theft deterrent system is NOT functioning.
PASSLOCK MODIFICATION Refer to appropriate GM service manuals and/or SVMQP Electrical Guideline Manual for instruction on splicing and electrical connections. 1. Select a suitable on-off switch (see note below) which will be used to disable/ enable the Passlock System. Mount the switch in a location such that it is accessible to the driver and will not interfere with normal vehicle operation. NOTE: This is an extremely low current circuit (approx. 7mA), it is therefore very important that a high quality, low energy, fast acting switch be utilized for this application. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Locate the Main Ignition Switch Harness in the Column. GM's Passlock System wires exit the Ignition Switch Tumbler together and then join with the Main Ignition Switch Harness. (See http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ or http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp and select your Make, Model and Year for wire colors and clues on the quickest way to access these wires.) 4. Locate the Yellow Passlock Data Wire which is included in a bundle of three tiny (20 GA) wires wrapped in friction tape. Cut this wire and splice a 0.5mm2 (20 GA) yellow wire to each end of the cut wire. Keep wire length to a minimum. Route modification wires clear of moving parts. Connect the yellow wires to the switch such that the contacts are OPEN when the switch is in the ON position. 5. Turn modification switch to the OFF postion (contacts closed). 6. Start vehicle to verify normal operation. If engine “cranks but will not start" recheck the switch position (contacts should be closed), wire connectors and modification wiring.
SWITCH OPERATION
To enable remote start: Start the engine with the ignition key (modification switch must be in the OFF position). Turn modification switch to the ON position (contacts open). The SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM Telltale will light up indicating that the Passlock System is inoperative. Once the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM telltale has been on for at least 5 seconds the vehicle can be turned off and then remotely started.
To disable remote start: The Passlock System can be reactivated by turning the modification switch OFF (contacts closed). Vehicle can either be running or off when this is done.
Please note that the VCM/PCM will record Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) related to the security system when the modification switch is in the ON position (circuit open). This is due to the way that the VCM/PCM interprets this condition.
NOTICE Any condition which removes battery power from the Vehicle Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (VCM/PCM) (e.g. dead battery, disconnected harness connectors, etc.) will prevent the vehicle from being restarted. If the engine exhibits a “cranks but will not start” symptom, place the modification switch in the OFF (contacts closed) position. This will reactivate the Passlock System and allow the vehicle to be started with the ignition key.
Good info. I remember reading about Alero and Grand Am starting problems where the security light comes on. The dealer fix is to replace the ignition switch at a very expensive price. I wonder if this is a way around the expensive repair if you are faced with this problem.
I just purchased a 2001 Olds Alero. When the delivery driver attempted to drive it on to the truck he noticed it would crank and then instantly die. The fuel gauge was below empty so he figured it was out of fuel and winched it on to the car carrier. When it was delivered, he put it in neutral and rolled it off of the carrier. I got in, started it up and pulled it into the driveway. About 10 minutes later, I drove it around the block and it ran great. I parked it in my driveway and went back to work. I was working out of town and the car sat in the drive for two days. When I went to start it the car cranks and dies instantly. Fuel gauge is once again below the "E" mark and doesn't move when you turn the key though I put 5 gallons into it. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key (1/2 way) Is this the fuel sender, fuel strainer, fuel pump, a combination of the three? something else?
Yeah, that's exactly why I posted this. A lot of people have just cut the yellow data wire while the engine is running to trigger "fail -enable" mode. That's exactly what the Modification On/Off toggle switch does. The added benefit of the switch is so you can reset the Passlock in case the Battery goes dead and clears the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM alarm light.
This is really throwing me for a loop. Last night I attempted to start the car with the same result. Tonight I got in, turned the key, and it cranks right up and doesn't die. Shut it off and cranked it again 5 or 6 times. I realized tonight that when I turned the key not only does the fuel gauge work properly but all of the dash lights come on which doesn't happen when you turn the key and the fuel gauge doesn't move.
Guys, I'm a new on this issue. Looks great. A lot of tips for non-experienced people just like me. My question is about Alero user's manual. I got my car without this, and I'm looking for this because there are some tips we can get there. Could you please help me with that? Thanks in advanced. MT
We have problems with our 2002 Alero. We have had the recall done for the hazard warning problem. But now, the flasher unit keeps clicking at a very fast rate when neither the turn signals or hazard warning lights are switched on. Inevitably, it is intermittent, but is certainly getting worse. It is only the clicking noise that is apparent, as none of the turn signal lights come on when it makes this noise.It sounds as if the clicking is coming from the hazard warning light-switch. Can anyone advise what is wrong please?
In addition to the suggestion already posted. Haynes manuals do not publish a manual for our model (we have a 2002 3.4 GL1). However, I purchased the closest they do, which covers up to 2000 models and includes the majority of things I need. However, it also includes the Malibu,Cutlass and Grand-Am. So, some of the pictures refer to these and not the Alero. But, for general work, it is better than nothing. And, with the other suggestion on this board, it may help. The ISBN is 1 56392 361 0. Their phone number is 1-805-498-6703. Use the ISBN, and check Amazon and E-bay. Hope this helps.
I think your talking about a shop manual here and not the user's (or owner's) manual. The factory shop manual is better by far than any of the generic ones. They come up on Ebay from time to time, but of course they're quite a bit more $.
I need "disable security system" for DUMMIES. I cannot live with this any longer!! I would appreciate it very much if someone could please tell me how to disable the security system on my Alero. If I cannot disconnect this, I will have an Alero for sale. Thank you for any help.
Comments
I was going to extend the warranty on my 04 GA GT since I'm over 24K now, but my wife is a financial manager and was running around with a spreadsheet showing why it's better to wait until I'm closer to the mileage expiration at 36K so I just said whatever.
miles. However, I am concerned that the anti-lock brake and low traction light came on when making a sharp left turn. It only stays on until the next time the car is started, but it's done this twice. I'm sure it's tire related, but wonder if the installers could have done something to mess up the anti-lock system. Any thoughts?
DC
Those Accords are looking better and better all the time.
DC
We had both of ours replaced before it hit 60,000 miles -- had 140,000 miles on our previous '95 Corsica and '87 Taurus and they had the original front wheel bearings.
:confuse:
No call by 4:30 yesterday either, so I called again. "Electrical problems are difficult to fix." No estimated time for completion. No apology for the lack of communication, or inconvenience of being without a car for (now, Thurs.) 3 days.
No explanation for why when I bought the car they said they provided loaners for repairs taking more than 3 hrs., and they don't offer one now on the 3rd day.
I told them I have to go out of town on Sat. and need the car back. I was given no promises, only that the service tech would be informed.
I'm really fed up. I've been unusually polite and restrained so far, but if they leave me hanging without word at 4:30 again today, they'll see "the other side of midnight" with me!
This didn't sound right to me so I called the local GM dealer's service dept. and the service writer said that although the book says that that he recommends changing it at 50000 anyway. Anybody have an opinion on this?
I live in a suburban area and car is driven about 8 miles each way to work with a few redlights on the route but not an excessive amount like driving in the city.
Also the manual doesn't mention anything about changing the fuel filter.I also asked the dealership about this and they recommended every 30000 miles which sounds right to me. Was just wondering how well these transmissions hold up if you don't service them if they are not used under harsh conditions.Car has the 2.2 4 cylinder engine.
I checked into the fuel filter and the consensus was that it should never need to be changed for most of us, as long as you use a good brand of fuel. If for some reason your area is known to have fuel quality problems then I suppose it's good peace of mind to do it.
My 99 Grand Am had over 100K when it was totaled in a collision and I had never changed the fuel filter, even though I did buy a new one, it's still on the shelf where I left it. I don't know if it will fit my 04 or not, I suspect it will.
There was only one interior moulding that needed replacing when the car was new and I brought it to the local Olds dealer (Gidron in Yonkers NY) and they managed to scratch my brand new car terribly on both the front and rear bumpers (which they has to repair... but I was pissed). I can honestly say they were horrble.
Anyhow since that tumultuous beginning, the car has never been back to the dealer for a warrnaty repair.
But recently the drivers side interior floor has been wet. Very wet. Definitely a water leak (though I have not ever seen the actual dripping water). I see issyvoo has some similar problems... and his dealer is saying the windshield seal is the problem.... I've seen other posts talk about deal issues around the doors. Anyone else have any ideas on what the issue may be? And most importantly, were the dealers able to correct on the first visit?
I plan on bringing the Alero to another dealer that I purchased 2 GMC trucks that also sold Olds' that is also about 60 miles away. They have an excellent service dept (Park Cadi Ponti GMC in New Milford CT) but wanted to have some idea what I might be in for with this fix. I hate to trade her in (she is low miles... like 25k).
She is under the second part of the 5/50 warranty....
I hope they will pull a miracle with the Alero leak (that I did not buy there).
Oh and my dome light recently stopped working in the 'door' mode. Maybe it is time for a trade... maybe the CTS stripper with the 5 spd!!!
http://www.autopart.com/fpr/fpr2004OLDSMOBILEALERO.htm
Here is some information that may help some of you. The initial link is to a bulletin from GM Engineering as it applies to GM Fleet Trucks and Vans. Following that, there is a re-write of the same bulletin so that we can apply it to GM cars. I used this Modification on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero as a Permanent Disablement of Passlock.I did not install a remote starter. It works great.
http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf
PASSLOCK I or II DISABLEMENT
The following is a procedure to disable Passlock I or II Systems for vehicles in which remote start/stop system installations are required. This procedure is required because a remote start system will not function with the current Theft Deterrent System (Passlock) which is included on many 1996 and up GM vehicles.
Please note that this modification is intended to be used only in conjunction with the installation of a remote start/stop system and does not provide a procedure to install a remote start/stop system.
CAUSE
If an attempt is made to start a vehicle by a means other than a key rotation in the ignition switch, the Body Control Module (BCM) will interpret this start as a vehicle theft and disable the fuel injectors.
CORRECTION
A minor wiring modification may be made to allow the vehicle to be started remotely. This modification includes adding a switch to allow the customer to select “ON” to allow remote starting or “OFF” for normal Passlock operation.
CAUTION: When this modification is performed and the switch is set to the ON position, the theft deterrent feature will be disabled. When the theft
deterrent is disabled the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM telltale will light up indicating that the theft deterrent system is NOT functioning.
PASSLOCK MODIFICATION
Refer to appropriate GM service manuals and/or SVMQP Electrical Guideline Manual for instruction on splicing and electrical connections.
1. Select a suitable on-off switch (see note below) which will be used to disable/
enable the Passlock System. Mount the switch in a location such that it is
accessible to the driver and will not interfere with normal vehicle operation.
NOTE: This is an extremely low current circuit (approx. 7mA), it is therefore very important that a high quality, low energy, fast acting switch be utilized
for this application.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Locate the Main Ignition Switch Harness in the Column. GM's Passlock System wires exit the Ignition Switch Tumbler together and then join with the Main Ignition Switch Harness. (See http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ or http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp and select your Make, Model and Year for wire colors and clues on the quickest way to access these wires.)
4. Locate the Yellow Passlock Data Wire which is included in a bundle of three tiny (20 GA) wires wrapped in friction tape.
Cut this wire and splice a 0.5mm2 (20 GA) yellow wire to each end of the cut wire.
Keep wire length to a minimum. Route modification wires clear of moving parts.
Connect the yellow wires to the switch such that the contacts are OPEN when the switch is in the ON position.
5. Turn modification switch to the OFF postion (contacts closed).
6. Start vehicle to verify normal operation. If engine “cranks but will not start"
recheck the switch position (contacts should be closed), wire connectors and
modification wiring.
SWITCH OPERATION
To enable remote start:
Start the engine with the ignition key (modification switch must be in the OFF
position). Turn modification switch to the ON position (contacts open). The
SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM Telltale will light up indicating that the Passlock System is inoperative.
Once the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM telltale has been on for at least 5 seconds the vehicle can be turned off and then remotely started.
To disable remote start:
The Passlock System can be reactivated by turning the modification switch OFF
(contacts closed). Vehicle can either be running or off when this is done.
Please note that the VCM/PCM will record Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) related to the security system when the modification switch is in the ON position (circuit open). This is due to the way that the VCM/PCM interprets this condition.
NOTICE
Any condition which removes battery power from the Vehicle Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (VCM/PCM) (e.g. dead battery, disconnected harness connectors, etc.) will prevent the vehicle from being restarted. If the engine exhibits a “cranks but will not start” symptom, place the modification switch in the OFF (contacts closed) position. This will reactivate the Passlock System and allow the vehicle to be started with the ignition key.
Ray
Proud Member of The Anti-Passlock Club :P
Thanks all!
Dave
Ray
Proud Member of The Anti-Passlock Club :P
I'm a new on this issue. Looks great. A lot of tips for non-experienced people just like me.
My question is about Alero user's manual. I got my car without this, and I'm looking for this because there are some tips we can get there.
Could you please help me with that?
Thanks in advanced.
MT
Can anyone advise what is wrong please?
Kathy