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According to Edmunds data, a used 99 (same-body) 300M sells for about $12k in the private-party market. At current TMV of $30k for a new 300M, you're seeing approximately a 60% depreciation over 4 years.
An Accord V6, on the other hand, shows $13k for a private sale of a 99 sedan / $24k TMV for a 2003 for a depreciation of 46% depreciation over 4 years.
In absolute dollars, potential depreciation loss after 4 years is $18k for a 300M and $11k for an Accord.
If you plow back that $7k differential into the 03 Accord's TMV of $24k, your budget instantly presents new $31k / slower-depreciating options other than the 300M. Or, consider an non-vehicle investment for the $7k that'll create even more value !
I guess I'll let you take it from here.
any finally, i know that Honda 5 speed autos just plain stink. are we all under the impression that for the Accord EX, it won't be a problem? perhaps at least for the 4 cylinder, since torque isn't an issue....thoughts?
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/sedan/112_0304_fam/
on paper the new 4 cylinder doesn't seem much different than before (in terms of power). but with the 5 speed auto and i-vtec providing a broader torque cure, the car is peppy enough. but forget about the i4 and get the v6 (the lx model is the best value). you're coming from a 1.8t for pete sakes.
I understand that this post is for Accords, however I also know of a 94 civic coupe EX with 147,000 miles for around $3,500. Once again I only need the car for a year or so.
What are your opinions? Any advice would be welcome. Thanks!
Compared to my previous car, a 1994 Camry, this car is tons faster but has a harsher ride. Not bad, though, just not Toyota plush. It feels tighter than the Camry on curves, though.
I can't wait until I can get it out on a country road and push it a bit.
my car has dash rattles that come and go at will. just tonight i discoverd one rattle was coming from the passenger side ac vent. put my hand on it and it went away....hummm. other times i hear popping noises from up around the dash/windshield. this is my first honda (and foreign car) and i must admit that i'm surprised this is happening. i guess it's first year glitches...?
robert,
i've had several sunroof equipped cars and much prefer the headliner placement for controls. because of my height i have to have the seat back pretty far and find the dash mounted controls to be a stretch for me. plus honda could put the homelink controls on the sun visor like my truck. and i also like express open...not sure why honda hasn't adopted this...they have auto up and down driver's window...why not sunroof?
otherwise i love the v6! the car drives very nicely albeit slightly siff legged but that was the intention. i'm still not sure about the tranny. it seems lurchy to me at light throttle/slow cruise. i think honda could do a little more work on the slushbox...
they don't seem half-bad anymore.
thanks for the info. i figured they would work out the 5 speed auto issues too. plus, i thought i had heard that the problems were only related to the V6, torque-rich (for Honda anyway) products....
Some gated communities have now gone to rolling codes so the Homelink won't work for anything other than your personal garage door.
Just get those new very small keyfob remotes or clip a normal remote to the sun visor.
That said, the Accord system is slower to respond than the Craftsman remote and the buttons need to be pushed hard to make contact. It's not Honda's best design.
You can synch with your own garage by phyiscally holding down a special button on your personal garage door opener while you're programming the Homelink.
This is designed as a security feature to thwart "code-grabbers."
I used to live in an apartment complex that did not have a rolling code and my Homelink worked fine. I could drive back there even after I moved out and open the gates if I felt like it. Now, I moved to a new gated subdivision and the Homelink would only work for the gates for a day at most then have to be reprogrammed. I finally gave it up. My neighbor's 7 series BMW will not open the gate either.
Each individual remote is now programmed into the gate's computer separately and be made inactive by the Homeowners Association.
As for why Honda doesn't offer Homelink on 4 cylinder models, I guess they figure that if you can't afford the V6, you probably can't afford a house either so you don't need Homelink.
That's assuming, of course, that you're talking about a 2003.
Good luck.
2000 Accord EX V6
Dark Green
Mil. 37200
$14500
2000 Accord EX V6
White w/spoiler
Mil. 23000
$15900
2002 Accord EX V6
Silver
Mil. 24,000
$16900
Any educated opinions would help.
Other than performance and a little less noise there are no benefits to the V6. It's simply a preference.
Thanks.
Did you have to pay MSRP ?
Did you look at a CL 6-speed, they seem to be going at a bargain price now since this is their last year. Probably won't be able to get NAV (only major factory option) and color choice my be limited.
Did anybody look at the TSX? or think about waiting for the 2004 6-speed TL?
Having owned many many standard shift cars from many many car manufacturers I think the Honda/Acura line is the best.
currently IS300 5-speed
But my honest opinion differs abit. I would choose a loaded 2002 EX V6 over a brand new 2003 DX. The only advantage your DX has is a new model year, where as the 2002 has all the creature comforts. Add up all the creature comforts and I think it will barely edge out the new DX 03 in value. Bring in an 03 LX vs a 2002 EX then we are a level playing field.
You wanna fire it up?
The sligh clunk noise seems to only happen when it sits for several hours. After the car is warmed up the sound goes away. Anyone else experience this problem other then me? Does this mean major problems down the road? I only have 150 miles on the car now.
are u talking about a clunk during the 1-2 upshift, or are you hitting the gas immediately after shifting from reverse to drive? the reason i ask is because my '03 v6 coupe takes a couple seconds to shift from reverse to drive. if i hit the gas too soon after shifting to drive, i'll get a thunk because first gear hasn't engaged yet. then when it does it is definitely felt...!
I am taking it to the service dept tomorrow. They probaly won't be able to re-create the problem bc the engine will be cold then.
Few times not doing this have made the tranny clunk into gear, mainly because cold engine RPM is high and tranny fluid is more viscous.
I figure that over time, the clunking and clashing will take their toll on the transaxle. On a related note, in parking the car - we put the car in "N," firmly engage parking brake, and finally move to "P." This minimizes strain on the drivetrain components especially on inclined parking.
We're drivetrain-obsessed as you might tell.
Mine does the same thing. Every afternoon when I leave work, as I get about 15+ feet out of my spot, which must be when the gears shift, I get a noticable clunk. At first I was sure I must be driving over something, but it happens at different spots. It's such an odd, clunking, almost slow, yet short, grinding. Very odd. The car is fine otherwise though, except for the paint which I worry about.
Atlantabenny, I usually think you're right on, but I'd been reading allot lately, here, in the Washington Post, etc., that letting your car "warm up" for more than a minute was bad, as different parts of the engine then warm up at different rates. I don't remember specifics, but it was made very clear in all that letting them warm up like that was bad. Instead one should maybe give it 15-30 seconds, with slow acceloration for the first couple minutes on cold days.
I don't claim to know all this personally, it's only what I read. I guess we all really go with was sounds right to us. On that note I think I'll change my oil for the first time this weekend. I'm at 5,100. Time for some good Mobile 1. Any advice otherwise?
Email is the way to get the host to the discussion in the most expedient manner.
Thanks!