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Comments
Since you're coming from a German car, you know how cars have their own personality. My 2003 Accord took a while to warm up to me, but I feel like it's going to be a friend I'll have a long long time now.
Cheers.
Is this true?
And if so, are the Mexican Accords the ones having the problems?
I'm not sure I believe the Mexico bit. Should I?
I mean, it has to offened some of our Mexican posters and/or viewers.
That's about as bad as being scared to buy one made in America.
I work with MANY Mexicans, and they are some of the hardest working people IMO.
But anyway, from what I have read, the Accord is MOSTLY made in Ohio (Maryville) but some are imported from Japan and Mexico (only a few) The V6s are made ONLY here if I am not mistaken.
I hope you find one, but from what is know, the Accords problems (what few it has) have nothing to do with where it is built (Meaning, that it could be a Mexican built, Japanese built or American built) model with problems.
Most of the problems would have to come from the American built ones, since most of them are built here.
Also, I prefer not to buy a vehicle produced at a start-up assembly facility, after a horrendous experience with one of the first VW Rabbits built in Pennsylvania back in the 80s.
And that's ALL my post was meant to be.
Jeez.
The Rendevous has a lot of problems. I believe thos are built in Mexico. I didn't buy another Century back after 93 or 94 when most started showing up on the dealers lot built in Mexico. When I looked, they clearly were more poorly built. Some work GM moved from this area for parts for their cars went to Mexico plants several years ago and has been moved back to the plants here, because of quality problems. Cheaper, but problems were there.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thankfully, my Sentra 2.5L hasnt suffered any major gaffes, although my transmission went into 'limp-home' mode once two weeks ago. Problem never resurfaced.
~alpha
While we shouldn't consider the PC-ness of this comparison, it is relavant to discuss possibly which models of the cars are built where and where are they being shipped. As far as who should be offended, that's not the problem of this forum. If that were the case, we offend American Workers every time we say Japanese Accords are built better. Even if that has been shown to be true.
That said, my point remains - this is a discussion about the Accord, not whether certain countries produce vehicles more or less reliable than other countries.
Thanks.
It goes into great detail.
We can talk about the article if we keep in mind our subject is the Accord.
If folks really want to debate whether certain countries produce more or less reliable vehicles, that would belong on our News & Views Board if pf_flyer is willing to host it.
It does NOT belong here.
Okay?
Sorry for the confusion.
U.S./Canadian Parts Content: 60%;
Major Sources of Foreign Parts Content: JAPAN 25%;
Final Assembly Point: SAYAMA, SAITMA, JAPAN;
Country of Origin: Engine: JAPAN;
Transmission: JAPAN.
It's interesting that a U.S.-only Honda model had so many parts shipped from North America for assembly in Japan.
I've driven the car just under 2000 miles since late August; however, 1227 miles of that included a trip from San Francisco to Palm Springs from just before Xmas to New Year's day--8.5 hours of highway driving each way by myself (and the XM radio).
So far, I can find no flaws, rattles, nor any other problems with the car. Didn't have to add any oil during the relatively high- speed trip, either--still full.
The '04 Accord EX-L is a superb car--quiet, comfortable, and economical--22.6 mpg in Palm Springs area traffic, and 33.2 mpg on the highways to and from there......Richard
I contacted the dealer and he said to wait a few days and see if it turns off, which it didnt. I took it in to the dealer. After about 2 hours, they tell me "a faulty loose valve" needs to be replaced. I was also told, that I can keep driving the car and it should be fine, and to bring it back 4 days later when the part arrives.
I had to leave town, so I had my dad take the car in for me to the dealer... he waited about 4 hours and they finally told him that they didnt know what was wrong with the car and that he would have to leave it there (That was this friday). Over the weekend, nothing has been done, the dealer still doesnt know what is wrong with the car.
What are my options guys? I am really confused. The car was purchased about 3 weeks ago and it has about 900 miles on it. My family is a honda family, we have a 98 civic (in great condition) and a 91 accord (in great condition for its age). But I have already lost faith in my new car and am extremely pissed that this is a new car and this is what i have to go through. Is there anyway for me to demand a new car?? My only real concern is that this car will continue to give me problems. Please advise.
I kept the speeds moderate most of the way, but the car is absolutely effortless at 80 MPH. Anyone with any old ideas about slow and noisy 4 cylinder engines will be blown away by the 2.4 Accord's refinement. ....Richard
But Honda's policy is to give a free loaner when a car is kept over night under warrantee.
I have about 22k miles on my 03 Accord and very happy with it. I've only took it to the dealer twice. Once for a recall. Your check engine light sounds like the recall I had but maybe not. The second time was a check engine light code P0420. Bad CAT. I think it was really bad gas but they put in a new cat.
When would you NOT want TCS turned on? Yes, I read the manual, which tells you *how* to turn it off, but not *why* to turn it off.
Thanks!
I originally thought I'd replace my '91 Mazda Protege with a new Mazda 6 but the new Mazda's 4 cyl. engine and trans were poorly matched and hunted between 2nd and 3rd gears on inclines--very crude performance, I thought, and sluggish off the line, too. The Accord is MUCH better.
I'd like a manual trans., but in San Francisco? The combination of heavy traffic and steep hills would be too annoying and scary for me!.......Richard
I'm a picky person, but yet to have an issue with the car. The pep of the 4 cyl. around town is great, even in my break-in period under moderate accleration. I feel very connected to the car, almost as if I had been driving it for years (which I hope to do).
I've been enjoying all the comments from you all on this thread for several months -- they were a big help in my decision. I hope to contribute a few of my own. For the time being, though, I'm just enjoying this amazing car. For a sticker price of $20,590, I don't think there's another car that can touch it. At least I didn't drive any.
richards38 -- I didn't follow your comment about the auto shifter moving from Park to D3 instead of to D, since you come to D first when moving in that direction. Can you clarify? I share your feeling about highway driving -- the little four-banger does 80 mph effortlessly, at a decently low rpm level. Superb engineering.
Here's what "Click and Clack" say about it...
http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1997/December/14.html
I've driven my 1999 Mercury Cougar with traction control always-on since I purchased it. (Just sold it today.) It has been a lifesaver on snowy hills and worked beautifully even in puddles at other times of year. I frankly cannot see any reason, Click and Clack nothwithstanding, to ever consider turning it off. My 2004 Accord EX V6 Coupe has it and I'm sure that it will work just as seamlessly as it did in my Cougar.
That sounds reasonable, since the smaller diameter tire is trying to rotate more revolutions per mile, so it would appear to be spinning and would invoke traction control.
The 4 cylinder/5-speed auto is surprisingly peppy and with gas prices seemingly headed straight for that $2.00 p/gallon mark I definitely appreciate the 30+ MPG.
In the Accord the lever does go to "D" first, but it stops sliding back at "D3" so I must make an effort to stop pulling before the lever reaches the end of its travel.
It's no big deal, and there's an indicator on the dashboard anyway--it's just that it's more natural for me to start the car and move the lever as far at it will go. Then it would take the push of a button on the shift lever to move to lower gears.
I'd bet that more than just a few people find themselves driving around in "D3" when they really wanted to be in the "D" mode......Richard
They gave one very specific circumstance where they thought it would be advantageous to turn it off, and recommended keeping it on 99.99% of the time. For almost everyone, that would end up being 100%.
I think the advice they gave was very reasonable. Any device that automatically adjusts wheelspin can work against you when you're actually stuck in snow.
It won't take long before you stop at "D" without even giving it a thought.
By the way--it's really a bad idea to EVER have a doughnut spare on a drive wheel. You should take the time to make sure the doughnut is installed on the rear of this car, so you don't loose (as much) steering or drive traction ability.
I was just curious, has anyone driven their 03/04 Accord V6 to it's governed limit? What is the top speed of this vehicle? I understand the MPH states 160, but can it truly do this with the limits removed?
You'll reach your top speed immediately before slamming into some abutment or rolling onto your roof into a ditch.
The police will probably be able to provide a pretty accurate MPH estimate to your surviving relatives.
The 4 cylinder coupe runs into a wall at 125 indicated. And I'm here to tell ya it's smooth as glass. No abutment crashing or rolling here.
Today was another of those really messy days, and at every light and stop sign you could hear wheels spinning everywhere. Not me - TCS light came on (at all those same stop lights and signs) and I moved easily. Though I didn't realize that TCS was such a selling point, I don't think I could live without it again. (Not to mention heated seats in this horrible weather, but that's a whole other thing!)
Thanks!!
transmission failure when i was ON THE
HIGHWAY( THANKS GOD I AM STILL ALIVE.In addition, I notice that the trans. is slow in responding to your foot; it won't "down shift" when i slow down or going uphill.To make the matter worse,the trans. won't upshift when i am stuck in the traffic.If i press on the gas hard enough for the car to shift then i would hit into the car
infront of you. Moreover, Honda parts nowaday are so expensive. 1 oil filter is for 6.59 whereas toyota & nissan you can buy 2 for $7.49. By the way, i traded my TL's in for a Maxima; this "baby can fly"
My 4Runner is electronicly limited to 116 and, according to C&D will do 116 in 4th or 5th gear, but I bet it does it quicker & easier in 4th.