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Comments
Thanks.
If one were moving from another 4 or a low power V6, the 4 will seem adequate. Anyone moving from a decent size V6 (I'm currently driving a 3.5l, 230 lb-ft Intrigue) is going to be underwhelmed by the 4.
The 1.8, 4 cylinder was barely adequate in power and when I switched on the A/C, it was like heading straight uphill--REALLY sluggish.
My next car (mine, not a company's) was a 1991 Mazda Protege DX--same 1.8, 4 cyl. engine size, but far more power and turning the A/C on didn't seem to slow it down at all. Both cars had automatic transmissions.
The '04 Accord EX-L 2.4, 4 cyl. feels very quick whether the A/C is on or not. I think that most newer cars have more efficient compressors that take less power from the engine......Richard
With the newer cars the fuel supply is probably changed when the compressor comes on so that the driver doesn't notice a drop in power.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It kept me comfortable, safe, and gave me 33+ MPG with an average speed of 80 MPH and the climate control on at all times. Not to mention the XM radio is awesome. Was able to listen to the Dirty Dancing True Hollywood Story to keep me awake during a two hour jaunt starting at 4 AM.
Coincidentally, I too moved from a 3.5 liter, 231ft-lbs V-6. Surprisingly, my 2.4 liter Accord is just as fast in overall acceleration, primarily due to the Accord's amazing 5-speed automatic transmission. Personally, the only thing I miss is the V-6's off-idle smoothness (below 2,000rpm). However, I couldn't justify spending $2 a day, every day for the next five years to get that extra smoothness so here I am.
If someone can rant about the same problem over and over again I can post about the positive aspects of the Accord as well.
The cost of gasoline and insurance will be higher for the V6. Tires probably will cost more too, since with more power present, we tend to use it more and wear tires down faster.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Can you elaborate on what you mean by "dampner in the back shelf area"?
The sound does sound a lot like the exhaust banging against something, as you described.
How did you fix the problem?
Thanks.
Can any of you Canadians hazard a guess as to why this is?
Make : HONDA Model : ACCORD Year : 2003
Manufacturer : AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.
Service Bulletin Num : 03018 Date of Bulletin: MAR 04, 2003
NHTSA Item Number: 10001301
Component: STRUCTURE
Summary:
RATTLE FROM THE REAR SHELF. *JB
if i understood correctly...they installed some type of insulation/dampener under the rear parcel shelf so that it wouldn't rattle. in my car the rattle sounded like either the suspension or exhaust was banging on something.
hope that helps...
3750 miles or 7500 miles?
Do more frequent oil changes improve gas mileage?
Also, do you guys use synthetic or regular?
Does using synthetic improve gas mileage?
3750 miles or 7500 miles?
Do more frequent oil changes improve gas mileage?
Also, do you guys use synthetic or regular?
Does using synthetic improve gas mileage?
"How often are people changing oil on their Accords?
3750 miles or 7500 miles?
Do more frequent oil changes improve gas mileage?"
Let the Games begin!
First; you might know that petroleum-based oils begin to break down at high temperatures (above 275-F) but are more resistant to water break down than synthetic oils. Synthetic oils are the opposite, tolerating high and low temperature extremes well but breaking down more in the presence of moisture. Unless you run your engine all day or can afford to change synthetic oil frequently, your best bet then might be to use a petroleum/synthetic blend to cover all odds. Some years ago a Consumer Reports study of motor oil in taxi cabs concluded that fully-synthetic oil held little advantage over using just one quart of synthetic per oil change (somebody here wrote about it previously).
Second; some synthetic oils claim that they maintain viscosity and resist additive depletion for a ridiculous number of miles (like 15-20,000?). While that may well be true in a lab, in everyday use your crankcase oil will be subject to the build-up of moisture, corrosives, and particulates. So at 15,000 miles your expensive oil may be holding up really well - even though it’s loaded-up with acids and unfiltered abrasive particles.
I drive my car twice as much as my wife does hers and I used to change the oil in both cars about every 4,000 miles. At 97,000 miles, my engine looked clean as whistle inside while her car at 45,000 miles showed a lot of gumming and varnish under the valve cover. Same oil, same maintenance schedule. The problem was the number of short trips she makes without the engine fully warming to burn off the moisture. That’s why Jiffy-Lube wants to change your oil every 3,000 miles –OR- 90-days. I now believe that I should have been changing my wife’s oil every 2,000 miles (!) whenever I changed my primary car’s oil (about every three months). I guess you could argue that gum and varnish doesn’t necessarily indicate premature wear and that her dirty engine might be just as sound as my clean one was. But I doubt that’s true.
Third; deciding on an oil-change regimen for your car is about finding a balance between protection and cost. It’s also about buying peace of mind. If you sleep better at night changing $45 worth of synthetic oil every 3,000 miles then go for it. The Consumer Reports taxi cab motor oil study showed remarkably little difference whether oil was changed at 5,000 or 10,000 mile intervals. But those were warm engines, run for looong periods each day. From personal experience I know what shorter trips can do to oil.
Honda says the Accord’s engines are good for 10,000 miles between changes in normal service. Why not listen to them then? For starters, they don’t know where you live, how you drive, and what quality of oil you’re using. They also warranty your powertrain for just 3 years or 36,000 miles whichever is less.
Personally, I’ll change the factory oil at about 3,750 miles. Thereafter, I’ll be using a quart of full-synthetic mixed with quality petroleum oil every 5,000 miles. I’ll change my wife’s engine oil at the same time at only about 2,500 miles. For now, I’m stocked up with Honda oil filters that I’ll change with the factory oil and then at every other oil change thereafter. That’s MY balance of cost, protection and piece of mind. You do whatever makes you happy.
I just completed my 30K service on my 2003 EX-L. I have been using dino oil until the car is no longer under warranty. At the next oil change, however, I was thinking about changing to either synthetic or a synthetic blend.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
One mechanic I spoke to suggested synthetic oil would be fine as long as the lifters are not hydraulic (something about upper . I am probably going to go with the blend. Thanks in advance for your comments.
In ANY modern engine, synthetic oil is reasonable and appropriate, if you can bear the expense. If you are going to change oil at intervals of 5k or less, though, it doesn't make a whole lot of economic sense.
Virtually ALL Mercedes and BMWs have hydraulic valve actuation, and all require the use of synthetic oil. This is a long, complicated discussion, which veterans of the Edmunds boards do get weary of participating in - but there is no topic more mythological than oil [unless it's tires, another chronic source of stomach acid around here]. It just disturbing to me that "mechanics" continue to perpetuate urban myths on this topic, and others...on another board, I had to step in when a "trusted mechanic" allowed that the front suspension on a W202 C-class [late 90's] couldn't be adjusted to correct for drift...when our dealer did just that on each of our last 3 MBs, including the type of car in question.
Use synthetic, or not - on an engine this new, the choice is yours, but it has nothing to do with the valve design.
http://www.billzilla.org/vvtvtec.htm
My car was parked on the side of a street, and when I came back to pick up the car, I found it damaged due to a speeding driver that struck the rear quarter panel of the car when trying to aggressively merge onto another lane. The damage involved the suspension and rear bumper as well as bending the left rear alloy wheels. I am just wondering whether there will be a vast change in the "rigidity" and the handling of the car once it is repaired! My car, by the way, is a 2003 Accord EX-V6.
bszeto
To make a long story short, the Accord felt and drove exactly the same after the repair as before the accident, a situation that I attribute to the quality of the unibody straightening job. So just make sure that the repair shop does unibody straightening and has experienced technicians in this procedure, and you shouldn't have any problems with rigidity or handling after the repair.
I don't know how long before 2:30 PM the XM might not have been working and the signal was restored after 3:00 PM and worked later yesterday, too.
Did anyone else experience an XM outage (I'm in San Francisco and was heading East at the time) or might there be something wrong with the car's radio?
The radio worked on AM and FM stations when I switched to regular broadcasting after several minutes of silence from the XM........Richard
I just noticed in a photo of a non-nav EX-V6 (with in-dash CD changer), that the radio display appears to be of the luminous LED variety (glowing characters and symbols on a black field). Am I correct that even the LX-V6 (which has an in-dash CD changer) has this luminous LED radio display?
If so, then bummer. I knew the LX-V6 had a in-dash CD changer but I didn’t realize that there was a big step up from a monochrome LCD display to a luminous LED one. That LED display seems like a much better match for the quality the LED instruments and the Accord’s interior overall. I’m amazed that I never noticed that before. I sure notice it now!
Thank you.
Note that the DX lacks a rear stabilizer bar in its suspension, so won't handle quite as well--I can't describe in what way; maybe someone else can elaborate.
You're better off buying an LX which comes with A/C, the stabilizer bar, and a few other features that are well worth the cost. It's my understanding that not much, if any, money is saved by buying a DX and then adding dealer-installed A/C. Shop for an LX instead......Richard
Unless you're planning to keep this car forever, remember that you'll take a big hit on resale value - when used LX's are plentiful, who's going to want a stripped DX used?
If you are wed to your laptop, you can scan the User Guide page and store the file on your laptop.
As used cars they are dogs to sell too.
I'm sure the body shop will fix the car properly, knowing you and Gee.
Again, hope all is well!
The Sandman :-)