Older Honda Accords

rumans

It is the same on the Accord. Just leave the H/L switch in the on position. When you take the keys out of the ignition, the H/L's will turn off after about 30 secs. There is no separate switch position for the auto H/L's. If they are on when you take the keys out of the ignition, then they will turn off after the 30 secs and when you put the keys back in the ignition, they should come back on since the switch is already in the on position.

scott1256

Does the Value Accord model have a different suspension from the other models?

I believe the former DX Accord had no front roll bar and perhaps other differences as well.

I don't see anything mentioned on the Honda website.

thoon

Blane, I already got that information from www.hondanavi.com. What I'm asking is, is there a way to upgrade the system to use the white disc? If you click on 2006 accords, it says the new disc is the white 4.31 version. It's also supposed to have a couple new navi features.

bamacar

No rear stabilizer bar on the VP. It is on the website. Once you get to the Accord page, click on Specifications. It is under the Engineering:Body/Suspension/Chassis section.

scott1256

Thanks for your reply here and also about the Civiic.

Interesting that the VP Accord is more decontented than the DX Civic.

Honda seems to be serious about more market share with this new Civic.

twhan

Hello, my white just got real-ended by a truck. Anybody can recomend a good body shop in Sunnyvale or San Jose, CA? Dealer recommend Sturken auto body or Da-les auto body and frame. Which one is better? Anyone have expericence with them?

antny49bce

I have an BLK 05 Accord Coupe EX MT, and the fact is that, I have no idea why one would get a sedan anyway. I mean if you have kids? get an SUV, if you like 4 doors, get an Audi, but a sedan Honda.. no way!

- Ant

4156

My 04 Sedan LX V6 needs new rear brake pads at 29,000 miles. Never have I had a car that wore out rear brakes before 80,000 miles. (This is my first Honda.) I am not happy. Does anyone know if Honda has addressed this problem? Anyone know of pads that will last longer? If you have an 03 or newer Honda Accord and have replaced rear pads before 36,000 miles, please respond. Anyone know if the pads are easy to replace for the do it yourself guy?

haefr

"I believe the former DX Accord had no front roll bar and perhaps other differences as well."

The former DX was equipped with a front stabilizer bar, but not a rear stabilizer bar. My '06 Accord brochure indicates of the Value Accord is devoid of a rear stabilizer bar, too. While stabilizer bars front and rear are desirable, I wouldn't consider the lack of a rear stabilizer bar a deal buster. My '96 Accord LX didn't have a rear stabilizer bar either, yet it outhandled my '03 Sonata that does include a rear stabilizer bar. If you're willing to go to the expense, you could always have your dealer order up the parts and install the rear stabilizer bar on a Value Accord, anyway.

whitecloud1

If you have repl. pads before, the Honda won't be any diff. I got pads for my rears through a gas station that lasted longer than the rear pads on my '98 (25K) too.

benjaminh

While getting a 30k service for my 02 Accord LX 5-speed, I got a look at the 06s. In my opinion, the 2006 Accords look pretty sharp. Someone here was asking, perhaps as a joke, why you would by a 4 door Accord if you had kids if you could instead buy an Audi or an SUV. I assume it was a joke, but if not it is kind of a crazy thought--no to the SUV because of horrible handling, bad gas mileage, etc., and no the Audi because they are frightfully expensive and woefully unreliable.

The magic of the Accord has for a long time been that you could get something in handling, performance, and style something that was pretty close to a BMW or Audi, but at half the price. Plus, while those brands tend to be unreliable and expensive to fix, Accords are reliable and not that expensive to maintain.

A while ago someone was also saying that the prices had gone up on Accords too much. To me they are still the screaming bargain of the automotive world. This list price on my 02 Accord LX was, I think, something like $19,000 (although I only paid c.16k because it was just before the old model was phased out) . You can get an LX Special Edition today for a list price of c.21k. So, what does 2k and 4 years get you? Let's count some of them--a bigger engine, c. 20 more hp, antilock brakes (my LX lacked them), electronic brake distribution, bigger and fancier wheels and tires, a 6 cd changer and 120 watt stereo (I don't know what my 02 has, but I'm guessing half that), etc., etc. This car has almost all the luxury and performance as a European car, but without the headaches or the snobish and showoffish quality of those. Oh, and the new more powerful engine also gets 2 more miles to the gallon in both city and country. I'm thinking that that feature alone--a bigger more powerful engine that's easier on gas--represents more than a billion dollars of Honda research and development.

Ben

mrbill1957

If you look thru the previous posts, rear pads have been a problem.

Changing disc brake pads are easy if you are willing to do it yourself. Assuming that the rotors are not scored, and the brake calipers are OK, you will save a good $.

Mrbill

pj23

Maybe because one likes Honda Accords and needs 4 doors. But that may be way off.

austinman7

I've had my '04 LX (auto transmission) about two years now and hadn't paid much attention to recent Honda developments. I'm just discovering the redesign of the rear end for '06 (much better than my droopy drawers look), but also the very interesting LX SE, which is basically my LX with cool alloys substituted for my dorky plastic wheel covers, a CD changer, and more airbags for not much more money.

I'm going to go by tomorrow and drive one of these, a 5-speed manual. I know about last year's automatic transmission recall on V-6s, but is it safe to say that the Accord's manual transmission has been free from significant defects? Any of you driving a 5-speed manual, and are you happy with it? I seem to have read some comments last year that it was a nice setup.

Thanks for the info.

benjaminh

I was looking at the long list of changes, improvements, and upgrades for the 2006 Accord at the Honda webstite:

http://automobiles.honda.com/info/news/article.asp?ArticleID=2005090935328&Category=curren- thonda

And I noticed that it says that now Accords have a "Drive By Wire," system. What exactly does that mean? Has the old cable that mechanically communicated with the engine been replaced with an electronic system. What are the benefits of drive by wire? Are there any drawbacks?

stickguy

You, the old throttle cable is gone. The throttle is electronically activated. The ECU basically uses gas pedal postiion as one more variable to decide how much to open up the throttle.

The advavtages are more precise control over the combustion process, and it allows the programming to do things to help mileage and emissions (in theory).

Down side, one more computer control to worry about, and in practical terms Dbw doesn't always have a natural feel (sometiems there is a lag for instance).

But, get used to it. Every car will probably have it at some point.

heejoman

I'm in a market for a new Honda. Civic - Accord - TSX. I'm making list of pros and cons.

Accord seems to be the best of value as I 3 kids to lug around and some road trips. I had Civic, Accord, and Integra in the past.

I liked the Accords (94, 96, 98). Only thing I noticed with the '98 Accord was I went through the brake pads every 20,000 miles.

As I'm reading about brake concern on '04 Accord. Is it that the brakes are too small for the Accord? Poor design? The Integra (still own) has over 87K miles still on its original.

Those who know well about Civic, '06 manual is nowhere smooth as years in the past?

Thanks.

anonymousposts

I love my EX-L 5-speed. Great engine/transmission combination + I get 31 MPG in mixed driving. I think you will like it.

haefr

"The advavtages are more precise control over the combustion process, and it allows the programming to do things to help mileage and emissions (in theory)."

Sorry, combustion precision is always contolled in modern engines by the ECU through feedback from various sensors mounted to the engine, camshaft, and crankshaft regardless whether the accelerator pedal is connected to a mechanical cable controling the butterfly in a throttle body, or an electronic "linkage" feeding electrical pulses to the ECU. The main advantages of "drive-by-wire" systems are simplified procedures on the assembly line (no time consuming cable mounting and adjustments necessary), simplified integration with the cruise control and automatic transmission electronics (again, no pesky cable adjustments to worry about over time), and the immediate input of driving parameter changes to the ECU that only electronics can provide. The wonder of conventional mechanical linkages was never that they worked, but rather that they worked as well as they did day in and day out.

eddievanhalen

I have been looking for a Chilton's manual or any other type of spec manual for an 03 Honda Accord but have been unable to locate one. Does anyone know if they even make one? If so, where can I find it?

whitecloud1

Look at the form in the back of your Owner's Manual.

eddievanhalen

Actually I just found a repair manual by Haynes. The ISBN is 156392580X for anyone that wants to know.

Also, I did check out the back of my owners manual and it did have an order form from Helms Incorporated. They sell books on their website for $70! I'm going to order the Haynes book for $20 (including shipping) and see if that does it for me. If not, I guess I'll just take the hit and order the Helms book.

sberry

I own an 06 Accord LX SE with the 5 speed manual. Its an excellent combination, the I-VTEC with a stick shift, Honda's are renowned for their manual transmissions and this 5speed works quite well with the 4clylinder, very good power and fuel economy, we are very happy with our Accord. Your right, the alloy wheels of the Se are a big step up over the cheezy wheel covers of the LX and VP.

We love our 06 Accord LX SE, my only suggestion to Honda would be to offer another interior color with the Alabaster Sliver other than black,.

In the Mid size car class, the safety features can't be beat, antilock 4 wheel DISK brakes with EBD, SIX airbags and 5 star crash test ratings.

PS: Our 1998 Honda Accord has over 90,000 miles its a 5 speed with the 4 cylinder engine, still has original brake pads front and rear and original rear tires, and original clutch, Honda's are bullet proof and we expect similar service out of our new 06.

cheng1

Hi guys,

It is week 3 and I finally hit the 1k mark on my Accord. My impressions are still great on the car. The 17" tires feel very smooth and no harsh ride at all. The moonroof is a great addition to the LX V6 family along with the standard VSA with Traction control.

My impression both good and bad. I like the maintanence minder which shows you the % of oil capacity life left in the car before oil needs replacing. However, it seems a bit high in reading, because I change my oil every 3-5 k and the oil capacity % makes the change more towards 7k. I will still change around 5k.

The Honda tradition of being able to use 87 Octane, the cheap gas, on my car is also a great benefit in the age where you need to look for the cheapest gas available.

I like how the car feels high when you sit in it, even though the 17" rims fit nicely around the body frame. The 17" tires have a nice feel on turns. Very stable and controlled, but not performance tuned. If you want more performance handling, you better drop this car on Eibach springs and more summer performance tires. Once you do that though, your comfortable ride, will not be so comfortable. The Michelin tires should last a while even with the 300 Treadwear. I had the same tires on my last Accord and they lasted about 50k with a 4-- treadwear.

The dashboard lighting is very clear and the highbeams have a nice radius of coverage. The HVAC system is working great. The defroster, heating, and AC have plenty of power and work with no glitches.

The acceleration is typical Honda V6 power. Nice power on mid to upper range rpms, could use more American kick on the lower range rpms. Passing power is very good which comes in very handy when those huge big rigs are trying to kick rocks and other debris at the front of your car.

Nice rear middle armrest folddown with 2 cup holders. My co-workers enjoy that as they seem to be spending a lot of time driving in my car and going to Dunkin Donuts with their coffee lattes and so forth.

Bad points, my gas mileage so far has been on average approximately 22-23 mpg in highway driving. I was expecting more, but I assume the engine is breaking in and my lead foot is contributing to not so perfect gas mileage.

My girlfriend, keeps taking the car from me, but I don't mind too much because she brings back the dough $$$.

So as I leave the 1k mark, I hope the car remains trouble free and we can keep this baby going for many years to come with many nice trips ahead.

See you later.

haefr

I agree that the $50.00 difference in price is sobering. But one VERY nice advantage of the factory shop manual is that ALL the diagrams and text pertain to the year model car YOU own*. The factory shop manuals usually have more information about body and subassemblies such as transmissions (though some makes have a seperate book for their automatic transmissions).

*My dad bought a new Dodge in 1960 (I was 15 years old.). In the back of the owner's manual was a coupon to order the factory shop manual from Helms. Original price? $12.50 including shipping. Current "wow" factor? Priceless. (I still have that old manual in pristine condition.)

mrbill1957

I've had Chiltons/Haynes manuals for my cars, as well as some from the manufacturer. For most repairs, the aftermarket manuals are just fine.

The problems I've run into the aftermarket manuals is that they don't have detailed troubleshooting info which you usually find in the manufacturers manuals.

At $70/hr + for labor charges at the dealer, spending the $ for a good manual could pay for itself the first time it's used.

If your someone like me, I find myself sitting down and reading the manuals even when I don't have anything to fix. Pretty bad huh?

Mrbill

haefr

"Pretty bad huh?"

Yep. (We're kindred spirits.)

benjaminh

Cheng: Thanks for the great report on your 06. The mpg should go up over the next 6 months. Mine certainly did by a few mpg with my 02 4 cylinder. I now get just 1-2 mpg less than the EPA rating, which was 26 city and 32 hwy. Once in a while I hit the EPA, but very rarely, probably due to AC use, 70 mph speeds, etc. But with the 6 cylinder, it's probably always going to be a bit more about performance than economy.

sberry: Hope you'll give us a report on your car soon. How is the 5 speed manual? And how does the power compare to your 98. Is it faster?

blane

cheng1,

Your 22-23 mpg on the highway has little to do with breaking-in. You are, however, correct about your lead foot. Your comments about "American kick" and "passing power" bear that out.

Even with a new engine, you should be in the high 20's to low 30's on a flat highway.

Enjoy your ride.

allfiredup

It's been good to read several positive comments from owners of the current Accord with manual transmission. I currently have a '92 Accord EX 5-speed that I've owned since new and an '03 Nissan Maxima SE 6-speed. The Maxima lease is up in a few weeks and I've been wanting to replace it with something smaller and less expensive. The new Civic and Mazda3 are at the top of my list.

I have assumed that the face-lifted '06 Accord would be out of my price range. It was only after I read the specs and realized they'd added cruise control and keyless entry to the VP model that I started to seriously consider it. I've had a dealer quote me $17,250 for a silver 5-speed VP. I'm definitely thinking about it. It'd be great to get a mid-size for compact money.

haefr

"The acceleration is typical Honda V6 power. Nice power on mid to upper range rpms, could use more American kick on the lower range rpms."

"Kick" in the lower RPM range is the result of el mucho grande cubic inches that let American engines loaf at highway speeds. Three liters in your Honda V6 translates to less than 185 cubic inches, so the rated power and torque are made in the higher rev ranges courtesy of overhead cams, a low mass valve train, and four valves per cylinder. Engines are really air pumps. Smaller engines derive their ability to move the necessarily larger volumes of air (to which fuel is added for bang) required for maximum output and efficiently extract spent exhaust gasses only at higher speeds.

"my gas mileage so far has been on average approximately 22-23 mpg in highway driving. I was expecting more"

Don't worry - you'll get more. But it won't really hit its stride until you've racked up around 5,000 miles. It'll still continue improving at a reduced rate out past 10,000 miles. Once broken in to around the 3,500 mile point, that V6 will be good for at least the high 20 to 30 mpgs at steady 70-75 mph cruising over level ground. (if you can resist the urge to routinely dent the firewall with the accelerator pedal)

whitecloud1

If that Haynes Manual does the trick, good. On the other hand the Helms Manual is detailed with instructions written as if you know nothing. I got back my money back with the knowledge in the book, in 3 months time.

eddievanhalen

Yea, I just needed the manual to help me take out the radio (or at least get to it). I'm installing a satellite radio and I need to get to the Aux plugs on the back. This is the first time I've done in install with my 03 Accord so I just want something to help guide me through the process of removing panels and other stuff. I'll let you all know how it goes if you're interested.

bartalk3

Cheng:

Those 17" tires. Do you get a lot of tire noise on the highway? The ride is not too firm with them? The turning radius is larger now with those tires. Any problems in parking lots and making u-turns?

cheng1

The 17" tires do not make a lot of road noise and the ride is smooth. Of course, 16" tires are going to ride smoother than 17" in general, but the ride is still very nice. I used to have a 99 Accord V6 Coupe with 17" rims/tires, so I'm used to the turning radius being larger. However, the turning radius does not appear that bad. I have no problem parking in tight areas. In regards to u-turns, yeah it is a little harder to do a u-turn, but not nearly as bad as a Nissan Altima or Maxima. I've driven both of the late models, and they have a monster turning radius.

pj23

As does the Mazda 6. My '04 6s wagon was terrible in tight parking lots.

missileman

I drive about 250 mi each day, mostly Interstate. Does the 4 cyl Accord have enough power to pass safely if you're already running 70-75 MPH? I hate being stuck behind those big rigs.

I have heard some negative comments about the comfort of the Accord seats during long trips. Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!

stickguy

the Accord has one of the nicer 4 cylinder engines around. Plenty of power, and also gets very good mileage for a car this size. Should be a very good choice for the driving you do.

I haven't driven an Accord long distances, but around town the seats are very comfortable. I would recommned the EX-L, largely becasue it has 8 way power, so you have a lot more adjustibility to the seat angle.

whitecloud1

I have a '98 Accord 4 cyl. Excellent speed and power. Cruising at 90 mph is no problem.

richards38

You must test drive both the 4 and the V6. I have the 4 (EX-L sedan w/AT) and I think it's plenty fast. Drove it on only one, long road trip: 500 miles from San Francisco to Palm Springs; there were trucks lined up the whole way on I-5.

The 4 was fast enough to pass safely and the engine cruised effortlessly at 80 mph. There's a long and steep drive over mountains (Grape Vine) North of L.A. The 4 cyl. Accord zipped up that ascending road with ease and I was able to accelerate as fast as I thought it was safe to go with power to spare. Mileage was over 33 mpg (all highway) in a car that had only 1000 miles on it. Superb road car in every respect--especially with XM radio.

Seats were excellent for me--that's an individual matter and no auto seat will please everybody. The EX-L has leather and 8-way power adjustable driver's seat plus a manual lumbar bulge. You should find a comfortable position--I didn't squirm nor make any adjustments during my 8.5 hour drive. My back aches much of the time, but not in this car.

If I had the decision to make all over again, I'd get the same, 4 cylinder Accord .......Richard

missileman

Thanks to everyone who replied. This info really helps!!

nls

I bought the 98 Accord EX last year when it had 45000 miles, and am close to 60000 miles now. I had to replace the OEM tires recently even though they still had some tread left, because the side walls were cracking and there was a slow leak. So if the rubber tires could degrade, I am assuming that the belts also would. Should the timing belt be replaced now, even though it is not close to the recommended 90000 miles, because the car is 7 years old? It is recommended that the water pump also be replaced at the same time, but what is the typical life of a water pump?

indyfan

I am another owner of the 4cyl Accord ('05). I am elated with the power of it as well as every other aspect of this car.

mrbill1957

I would not judge the condition of your tires for your decision to replace the timing belt.

I have an 88 Accord, and replaced the belt for the first time last year. I did the work myself, and I did not see any signs of the belt deteriorating.

Keep in mind, the 90K number used for when the belt needs changing has a margin of safety built into it. Belts will go many more miles than 90K, Honda like any other manufacturer picks a number well within the range of life of the belt.

I would stick with the 90K mark.

As far as the water pump, most of the labor required to change the pump is already spent disassembling things to get to the belt. Replacing the pump at that time is the most cost effective then to have it changed on it's own. I would also have them change the drive belt/s while there at it. There should not be any labor charge, just the cost of the new belt/s, since they have to remove them to get to the timing belt.

Mrbill

mccombie

engine tapping noise @ 65k miles, had pan dropped, determined no bearings problems. timing belt replaced, diagnosis was vtec timing needs adjusting.noise happens randomly,sometimes at acceleration, cruising speeds, not predictable.could not identify by tach.or speedometer. endured for approx. 2mo.
apprec. any comments.

haefr

There's no such thing as "typical life" when it comes to water pumps. Much depends on prior, timely, routine cooling system maintenance with the correct antifreeze*. (which is all too frequently ignored as evidenced by the number of cars pulled to the side of the road with hoods up when temperatures turn hot...) The reason for the recommendation is that the water pumps on Hondas (and a number of other makes) are behind the engine front covers just like the timing belt and just as hard to get to. You're being advised to deal with the issue prophylactically before it becomes a problem and you'd have to turn right around and spend several hundred bucks in labor plus the cost of the pump. Better just to deal with it at the same time as the timing belt when everything's already apart and convenient. Honda suggested timing belt replacement at around 90,000 miles at the time I bought my '96 Accord, but recommended a changeout at 60,000 miles under severe service. Honda has upped the recommended normal service changeout of the timing belt recently to 110,000 miles (I think - I'm sure someone will chime in if it's otherwise.) This is NEVER hard and fast - the things can poop unexpectedly early, and some morons have successfully stretched the timing belt replacement past 120,000 miles. (Do you feel, lucky? ) Your owner's manual will list the recommended replacement interval, or call a dealer's parts department to look it up for you.

*As a rule, the "big three" Japanese auto manufacturers do not like antifreeze products containing dissolved silicates because of precipitated silicates' tendency to abrade water pump seals prematurely. Not coincidentally the Japanese manufactures' chemistries are compatible, containing organic acid technology and phosphates as the hybrid corrosion inhibitor, pH buffers to control acidity, and the usual ethylene glycol (~95%) for its anti-boil properties. The closest U.S. chemistry to the Japanese philosophy is DEX-COOL or one of its clones being marketed by Prestone and several aftermarket store chains. But none of these "dex-cools" contain the factory preferred phosphates, so it's probably best to stick with the genuine Honda (green), Nissan (green), or Toyota (pink) syrups - especially for a car still under warranty.

mamamia2

Putting so many miles on your car.... Boy, you need a good, long-lasting engine.

The way I see it, a 6 cylinder engine would last LONGER than a 4 cylinder.

richards38

Maybe so, and maybe not. Honda 4s are known for durability and the current Accord 4 has a timing chain instead of a belt that must be replaced after about 100,000 miles. The chain is permanent, so that's one expense a high-mileage 4 won't need.......Richard

nls

mrbill1957, haefr - Thanks for your input and I will have the condition of the belt checked to see if it needs replacement. I did get the coolant flush done immediately after I bought the car last year, as it was a recommended service at 45000 miles. I wouldn't worry as much if it wasn't an interference engine, but unfortunately it is, and the belt can go if the water pump seizes up. The car has been driven less than the norm, so cannot be categorized as "severe service". But you have probably seen the recent articles about tire replacements at regular intervals regardless of use, and I wonder whether it would apply to belts and hoses as well.

mamamia2

Richard,
Are you saying that the my '05 Accord V6 has the "old fashioned" timing belt, but the 4 cyl. has a chain?

And is that chain REALLY permanent?