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And furthermore, what do you care? You don't even own a Jetta, so why would it bother you?
But I think the brakes only require a light touch, and it's been about the same in all VW products I have driven (never drove a Cabrio).
i think i will let my dad mess with that...if i hear the rattle again.
Posts 7028 AND 7033.
The fact that I don't own a Jetta doesn't mean I can't read and comment here, just as it doesn't prevent you from hanging out and posting comments on the Kia, Protege, Cavalier, and lately even the Nissan Altima discussion.
Note how even your fellow Jetta owners on this discussion voiced a collective sigh of relief when you announced your problems appeared to be solved.
Now it seems you're creating more. Why not just accept that your car has been fixed, vote with your feet and CHANGE DEALERSHIPS for service?
Meade
Thanks.
Meade
Thnx :P
http://theserviceadvisor.com/octane.htm
Meade
anyway, the engine has knock sensors...will which tell the ECU to retard the timing if you use regular or mid-grade.
This is my post on this board. I am looking at 2000 GLS with 67K mi. on it. The dealer is offering a 12mo./15K mi. extended warranty on it and asking for 11K. Is it a good car to buy at that price?
I have checked Edmunds TMV and KBB, they are showing much higher price than what the dealer is asking even after mileage adjustment. Am I missing something or is there some thing fishy I need to be wary of?
Dealer is also offering a free car fax report.
Thanks
I also heard of a special some dealer in the MD/DC area is having until Monday, on the radio this morning. They said they would bring any VW on their lot to your office to test drive. I thought that was pretty convenient. If I hear the commercial again, I might write down the number. I really wanna check out that new VR6 in the GLX/GLI Jetta. Might as well save my gas and time and have them bring the car on my lunch hour or something.
If you answer yes, then go for it!
No offense to current Jetta owners, I'm just stating facts (in terms of the higher probability that a VW will need more frequent and expensive service than certain other brands).
Also, 67K in 2 years seems like a lot of miles - was this a fleet or rental car? If so, you have to decide how you feel about hundreds (or more) people having driven the car before, and possibly abused it. If not, it is actually a good thing, because people who own/lease cars and drive a lot for work 'usually' take very good care of the vehicle, and have services done regularly. Of course, both these assumptions are just that - assumptions, and you have to make sure you see the service records for this (or any) used vehicle you purchase, and have it checked out by an independent mechanic!
Repairs will be more expensive though, because of the price of parts. That's the way with all European cars though. Another venue to explore is to purchase an extended warranty for the car. That way, everything will be covered at least up to 150K miles.
http://biz.yahoo.com/djus/020807/200208071314000667_1.html
Meade
The A4 platform is better than the one that the Cabrio rides now (it's on the old A3 platform still). Also, the sex appeal of the Beetle will help sell more cars for VW in general.
(Seems this news is breaking pretty fast! This article is less than 115 minutes old as I type this, and less than an hour after the first oone I posted ...)
Meade
*shrug*
Let's move on.
Pat
Sedans Host
I have never seen so many Jeeps, Defenders, or Beetles all together at one time in my life!
I need new brakes.
I bought the parts, and everything OK so far...UNTIL...
The screw on the rotor is not cooperating. Does anyone know if this can just be drilled out? What is it's function?
Thanks.
1997 Jetta GL 4 cylinder 2.0 litre auto tranny front disk brakes
I had to drill out a screw on my rotor, and never fixed/replaced it.
The screw merely holds the rotor in place so that the calipers can be installed, followed by the tire. The lug nuts actually keep everything in place, as they go through the rotor.
After drilling out the screw, you could use a lug nut to temporarily hold everything in place. Once the caliper is installed, it will hold the rotor in place. However, before you put the tire on, maker sure the holes in the rotor (for the lug nuts) line up properly.
The special where they bring the car to your office is on until the end of this week, the radio ad said this morning.
http://auto.com/industry/iwirj7_20020807.htm
And I quote, "Among non-luxury brands falling below the average of 41.8 percent residual value were: Buick, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Daewoo, Dodge, Ford, Hyundai, Isuzu, Kia, Mazda, Mercury, Mitsubishi, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Saturn, and Suzuki." What a shame.
What people don't realize is that when automakers have to offer all these rebates and free financing to move their cars, it lowers the resale value dramatically. People think they are getting a good deal, then get kicked in the rear when they go to trade their cars in. I, for one, thought I was getting a great deal on my last car with the rebates and special pricing. Then traded it in after 8 months (I know it was quick) and lost almost 40% of the resale value on it. Ugh, never again.
I had to drill out a screw on my rotor, and never fixed/replaced it.
The screw merely holds the rotor in place so that the calipers can be installed, followed by the tire. The lug nuts actually keep everything in place, as they go through the rotor.
After drilling out the screw, you could use a lug nut to temporarily hold everything in place. Once the caliper is installed, it will hold the rotor in place. However, before you put the tire on, maker sure the holes in the rotor (for the lug nuts) line up properly."
Thanks for confirming this for me. I wasn't 100% sure if I had to retap the hole and put in a new screw. I wasn't sure what its exact function was and knew the lugs held it all on there (until rust takes over the role!).
I'll probably drill mine out tonight and finish the job.
Thanks a bunch!!!
Which is why people hang onto their cars for 10 years. Even better is to buy a used car, and let someone else take the hit on depreciation costs!
My bro-in-law wants a 2002 pathfinder LE (28k invoice) but then he saw that a 2001 Pathfinder Le with 25-30k can be had for 22-23k he changed his mind. One year/5k-6k...easy choice.
then you ask yourself - why did they want out so bad that they wasted thousands of dollars?
from my experience, i have traded many cars in less than a year because they ended up being POS's....somebody elses problem now. they thought they were getting a great deal on a new used car. in fact, they inherited my lemon Hondas and Nissans and Mazdas!
i would LOVE to buy used, like the idea a lot, (i mean, an E class MB for $30k? whats not to love?) but my gut instinct won't let me.
I don't see it that way at all. Some people...just keep moving from car to car. Look at Vocus, he hasn't had a real problem with a single car but he keeps changing them.
>>then you ask yourself - why did they want out so bad that they wasted thousands of dollars?<<
Beyond Vocus I know many people who can only be called mercurial when it comes to cars. They buy a car, then trade it in 18 months later for a totally different kind of car. Or what about someone who needs to move out of the country? Happens in San diego often. You see ads for cars where military people need to split. Maybe a financial difficulty, they bought the car but can't keep up with payments, especially after losing a job. Maybe a family change or a personal change...a friend's mom dies in an SUV rollover, get a different car. Pregnant with a new spouse, get rid of the sports car for something bigger. And on and on...
>>i would LOVE to buy used, like the idea a lot, (i mean, an E class MB for $30k? whats not to love?) but my gut instinct won't let me. <<
Funny but part of the problem the auto industry is having comes from the quality of cars today. 20 years ago people kept cars for 2-3 years, sometimes as long as 4-5. Now 6-7 is becoming the norm. Why get rid of the car at 100k miles? It's still got life. Many new cars don't even require maintenance until after 100k miles.
And consider the certified programs now. Manufacturers are giving huge warranties on certified cars. It's not a gamble any longer.
JMHO
HO
I never had problems with it, traded to a 2001 Protege because I liked the car, and wanted to upgrade from the DX to the ES model.
I traded the 2001 Protege because I have always wanted a Jetta 1.8T since they came out, and so I got it. I got a raise at work, my financing rates lowered a little, and I wanted the car. So I did it.
So by everyone else's logic, they wouldn't buy either of your Pros as they were too new to be sold.
Plus everyone seems to be forgetting off-lease cars.
i guess if i bought from a private seller and could threaten them to tell me the truth about the car it might work.
If you do decide to get the Jetta, buy an extended warranty on the car. Also, check the title history on it (http://www.carfax.com can help you there). And, lastly, call a VW dealer and ask them to run the VIN number through their system to check on the service done on the car, etc.
The Jetta is a much better car than the Focus and Hyundai. It drives and feels like a much more expensive car actually. So it might be worth the risk for you.
Also, I wouldn't recommend the Focus. They are a good car, but too many recalls and reliability concerns. Instead, consider a Mazda Protege. I had two, and they are pretty reliable economy cars.
All my noises are gone, but a little headliner creek will appear when I hit a really hard bump, maybe like once a week or something. But that's it.
Next time though, I will ask them if I can take the car home with me and drive it for a day or two before purchasing it. If they say no, then I will take my business somewhere else.
Saturn has a good deal going. If you don't like your car within 30 days/1500 miles, you take it back and either get another one or get a full refund. I think all automakers should have that plan going, it's pretty cool.
If only VW had a recall on the window regulator problem, they might have a greater reputation for reliability. Instead, it seems (from here) that people only bring them back under warranty if that happens to affect them.
A recall is not a bad thing.
That said, I really liked the Hyundai GT (not sure of model) with the "fastback" hatch. It was a nice, solid car at a great price!
Let us know what you decide on.
stay away from the Focus. my grandmother of all people bought one. Ford gave her another one after months of lemon law stuff. she still has problems. she likes the way it drives, when she gets to drive it.
the Accent is not worth it. i agree with anonymous - go for the Elantra GT! excellent looking car! decent engine and handling too.
And you are right, recalls are not a bad thing. I just would have a hard time trusting a car that's been recalled so many times, personally. And for such safety related things as well.