Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I may chip my car in the future, but I know that I do so with some small degree of risk.
Here is the story of someone who has chipped their car and now is having some problems.
quote..
I started having problems with my car so I switched to the stock chip. The problems went away for two days but then came back. The problem was that the car would be idle very rough, and the revs would keep going up and down by itself. Up to about 1500 over and over. Also the check engine light was on and the epc light would come and go. When the epc light was on the car would go into limp mode. I took it to a friends house who has a vag-com and the only code was something with the throttle body. I brought it the the dealer and they called me back and wanted to know if I had an aftermarket chip. I said no. The wanted to know why I had an aftermarket dv(forge), and I said because the stock one broke and I didn't want it to happen again. They said well that's usally a sighn of chipping. I said no. Then they mentioned my tt exhaust and kept asking about the dv. He then says that I am showing throttle body codes and that that is usually when someone pulls the ecu to chip it and doesn't put it back in right. He asks me what he will find if he pulls the ecu, I said a stock chip. He says ok I'll call you back. Calls me back ten minutes later saying that they found the socket and they seemed pretty happy about themselves. Tells me that they can't fix my car. I tell them to just replace the windseild(I was also there for that) and leave the rest alone. They call me back after, say the windsheild is done but now the car won't start. They can't get any readings with the computer and that my ecu is fried and that its because of the soldering job. They want $450 for a new ecu.
Does this seem right, I don't really believe them about the ecu being broke. I also think it was wack that they pulled the ecu because of the dv and exhaust.
Any suggestions? I was thinking of going up there tonight since the car is outside and seeing if the ecu is really dead. --
Where are you mellis and what would you advise this person and future chippers to do?
If this guy's got a friend who's a lawyer, have the lawyer fire off a note on his letterhead - mention small claims court, etc. Obviously tell this guy not to mutter a WORD of actually chipping the car. It's far better if the lawyer believes his client is telling the absolute truth. My guess is if this joe's got a lawyer sending a letter with threats of a lawsuit and publicity over poor service and accusing the man of activities they can't prove, then they'll slip in a new chip and let him be.
"All 2002 model Volkswagen vehicles (except maybe the Eurovan) will have this warranty:
- 12 year unlimited distance Limited Warranty Against Corrosion
- 5 year or 60,000 miles Limited Powertrain Warranty
- 4 year or 50,000 miles 24 hour roadside assistance
- 4 year or 50,000 mile Limited New Vehicle Warranty
Free maintenance has been eliminated."
It's about bloody time.
If you get a chance, drive a chipped 1.8T (ideally with a sport suspension or aftermarket suspension work). The difference is extreme. With a good chip the torque comes on like a monster and the car can easily pull to 60 in 2nd gear. I've never seen hard numbers on the difference the chip makes but my seat of pants reaction after driving a friend's chipped 1.8T makes me want to chip my WE.
For most people it's probably not worth it to chip. I know plenty of girls who insist their basic 4 cylinder Jetta is plenty powerful...for them that must be true. Heck most people think the standard Jetta handles well too. I'm still not really satisfied with the sport suspension on my WE but for now it will do. A few times this week I've found myself hitting an on-ramp or off-ramp curve at 50-70 mph and getting the feeling the car's near the break off point. That's a little too sloppy for my tastes.
Karl Flaig
Editor@blue-guy.com
you mean you wanted to get a Jetta, a chip, or a chip for your Mazda??
Its a risk, no doubt about it. I have to say that I will not go back to a non-chipped 1.8t - the difference is HUGE. But I am willing to take the risk.
Still, I'd love to get feedback from others. A friend of mine chipped his 1.8T with Nuespeed (or is it Neuspeed?). Nice nice stuff. Power came on hard around 3k until about 4500. It was like getting punched in the gut.
Karl Flaig
editor@blue-guy.com
I will only have my Jetta for a few more months and then it will be sold. I certainly won't miss the interior.
You just need to use your head with a chip. If you are driving the car aggressively then let it idle for a minute before you shut down. Change the oil often and use synthetic. Don't stop on the gas hard with the A/C on.
I trade my cars every 2 - 3 years so longevity is not an issue for me. I want the cheap performance boost. If I was going to keep this car for 100,000 then I would not chip.
But, they are very easy to keep clean. Some use those lint-roller thingies and they work okay, but by far the best and easiest thing to use is the Pet Hair & Lint Remover from Simple Solutions.
Their lint remover looks like a sponge brick. Weird little thing, but man! Performs magic on the lint-loving VW seats and makes them like new in just minutes.
We bought ours at our local pet supply store and it was less than $5. If it wasn't for this thing, we'd be tearing our hair our because these seats are incredible dust/lint/sweater-ball magnets like I have never seen before.
You can see this item at http://www.bramton.com
-Jim
http://www.jettaownersclub.org
Got brackets for Panasonic CD changer ($23 from VW Parts). Changer supposed to arrive Monday, woo-hoo! Will advise on my padded install/skipping.
Got my first "blemish" the other day: Pulling into a driveway, the front dipped as the driveway rose, and the bottom front/right scraped the black area of the bumper. I have scraped 3x now, even despite trying to be very careful. The nose really drops and is prone to scraping when going into driveways/parking lots, etc. Jetta owners beware of this!
Mileage: I am a bit disappointed, my first tank average is 19.1 mpg and that is very conservative driving (havent gone over 5K rpm yet) and all in the city (have only been in 5th gear once). I hope this mileage improves as the car breaks in a bit. I havent even used the a/c that much despite living in Houston. I have noticed, when using the a/c, that it takes a good 5-10 minutes before the air coming out is really cool. Hmmm, maybe the compressor needs time to get going.
My interior is black which is very sharp, but indeed every lint/dust/dirt shows up. Car requires lots of vacuuming, etc. The exterior is galactic blue, also very difficult to keep clean. But when clean - the car looks very smart.
That's about it for now!
One thing, after putting on the VW brackets, when I slid the player down into the holder it seems I can't screw either bracket to the VW's pre-formed frame. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone have any suggestions or should I just leave the CD player floating in there? It's wedged in super tight, but both supports are a good 1/8 inch from linging up with their respective bracket holes. Ideas?
BTW, I've got 362 miles on my WEEK old WE already. Someone wants me to drive to LA tomorrow (round trip should be about 250 miles), but I think I'll pass. This car is a lease afterall. Once I break 300 miles a week I'm treading on dangerous ground for the future.
P.S. Don't park your Jetta right on top of those concrete parking stops with your front wheels as the larger ones and ones with the vertical steel rods can pull and rip off a bumper cover in a hurry.
I had the same problem lining up the CD changer brackets with the VW's frame. I was able to screw in one side but had a really hard time on the other side. But after I loosened and tightened the screws connecting the bracket to the changer, I was able to get it all screwed in. Give that a shot. It's a hassle -- I spent a sweaty half-hour inside the trunk playing with it -- but it might work for you.
Karl Flaig
Editor, BlueGuy
Blue-Guy.com, Driven by a Different Point of View
It came today via UPS from LogJam Electronics ($195 + $49 cable, no tax or shipping).. Box arrived intact and sealed, my changer was born in April the same month as my WE (good karma I spose!).
I first attached the brackets from VW parts to the side of the changer, then went to the trunk (getting eaten alive by mosquitos). I connected the interface cable to the Jetta trunk harnass without any problems, it just plugged right in and went "click" (I didnt have to remove and false insert or anything?). Then I plugged the round end of the cable into the unit.
I got a piece of 1/2" packing foam and cut it the size of the base of the changer (this is the grey sponge-like packing foam) and put it into the trunk cubby to buffet the base of the changer. I slipped the changer in and - as you might guess - the hole sdidnt line up well, and were probably more offset because of the foam on the bottom of the cubby. With a fair amount of manipulation I got the "front" screw (towards the engine) securely in, but that made the rear screw hole even more misaligned. I couldnt get it in until...
I got a second screwdriver and "wedged" it's handle between the trunk wall and the VW bracket, which forced it close to the CD changer bracket. The holes lined up and I tightened the screw, then I removed the screwdriver from between the carpeted trunk wall and the VW bracket. This worked very well for me (the screwdriver handle was about 1 1/2" in diameter). I drove back to work along a bumpy road and puposely hit the potholes, etc. and no skipping at all (so far). The sound is **amazing** compared to the radio.
Is there a way to 'advance' thru a track, i.e. skip from the beginning to the middle of a track? My sony did that and it's a feature i'll miss if the HU wont do it. Otherwise it works and sounds great. For anyone with skipping issues, consider removing the unit and putting foam down there. If you cant get the holes to line up, do the 'front' screw first (engine side) then wedge something between the carpeted wall and the VW bracket to force it into line with the CD changer bracket hole.
Hope that helps sorry for the winded message.
PS install time 30 minutes, 214 mosquito bites...
(We have a 2000 Jetta GLS)
Poor paint/finish, scratches too easily.
The engine is rough, loud and noisy,
the trunk release gets stuck (no way to open it MANUALLY!)
The engine burned oil for the first 20,000 miles -- who ever heard of THAT!?
Finally, there is the creaky suspension in the front -- that did not go away even after multiple visits to the dealer. All they did was lube it and "continue to check it." Of course, this means that the problem would be 'blown off' until the warranty runs out.
Oh yes, there is the front bumper. Ever scrape a curb? Eventually this will cause the bumper cover / air dam to fall off. This is a design flaw. VW says this is "an insurance issue."
NO, ACCIDENTS ARE INSURANCE ISSUES. DESIGN FLAWS ARE VW ISSUES!
Plain and simple, we are not interested in another VW. Not a Passat and certainly not an A4, and don't you dare suggest another Jetta!
There are plenty of Hondas, Acuras and Volvos to satisfy us, and if VW really doesn't want our business "there are many other salespeople that do."
Why is it that a HONDA can go over 5 years and 110,000 miles and never visit the shop (mine did!)
but my wife's VW can't go 21 months and 36,000 miles without falling apart!?
You get what you pay for ... except in VW's case, you don't!
S. I'm single and don't cart kids around but I have had lots of friends in the back and aside from a few scuff marks everything still looks good!! Yea well I do have neat friends!
Rusted to death, front quarter panels rusted straight thru you could see the road!
Entire dashboard cracked and slowly fell "into" the car over a period of years.
Air bubbles in fuel sytem meant stalling a few times a week.
And worst, the heater died and could not be repaired or replaced by Honda. My parents live in Wisconsin. Until they junked the car (no dealer would take it as a trade in, and the shelter-for-boys (those places that take donation cars to fix and resell) even refused it) they used BLANKETS in the car to stay warm since heater core could not be repaired.
My favorite was the washer fluid jets for the front windshield that were too powerful AND missaimed, so when you tried to use the washer fluid, it squirted clear OVER the car! Useless (well, except for the car behind us that might need its window/hood blasted with fluid).
Care to ask my parents if they like their old accord or my Jetta better?
The point is, everyone has bad experiences with various types of cars. You hate your Jetta, my parents won't even buy Japanese much less Honda any more after the "Disastaccord."
Depends on what you do to any car. From my experience just about all new cars have lousy paint jobs, with only the high-end German makers applying anything close to good paint. But the driver's road choices, parking decisions and other factors (cleaning/waxing) play a role in this too.
"The engine is rough, loud and noisy, "
Which engine? The I-4, like ALL 4's is pretty rough. I've never enjoyed the feeling of the I4 on any car. At least the turbo on the 1.8 gives the engine a nice strong feeling, like a mini-six.
But as you mention later the engine burns oil and the suspension is rough...could be a sign someone abused the car.
"the trunk release gets stuck (no way to open it MANUALLY!)"
My 2001 has a keyhole right below the VW symbol.
"The engine burned oil for the first 20,000 miles -- who ever heard of THAT!?"
Yet again, depends on the engine and the break-in and the quality of driving. No offense but your wife may be a terror on her car. Or maybe you did get a lemon. Still letting, VW get away with not correcting the "burning", while bemoaning it to others sounds rather passive agressive.
"Finally, there is the creaky suspension in the front -- that did not go away even after multiple visits to the dealer. All they did was lube it and "continue to check it." Of course, this means that the problem would be 'blown off' until the warranty runs out."
Again, the creaking, the scratches, the oil burning could all be a result of the driving style, the locale, etc. Furthermore, why would you allow a dealership to push you around? I agree that dealers are rather belligerent, but with a little push and a few suggestions they normally toe-the-line.
Just a few thoughts. Hope you enjoy your Camcord or Civic next time.
All I can say is that my 2000 GLS 1.8 has been great (13K miles)! I've had these minor problems to deal with:
1) Valve core leaked on tire - replaced at dealer
2) Rear cup holder stuck - unstuck by dealer during routine service visit
3) MIL light came on - Shield on lower air dam removed (it's not supposed to be there on turbo models - it was a factory mistake). Caused an air exchange valve to fail - to be replaced next week at dealer (no effect on driving, just emissions).
Dealer's service has always been excellent. When I have car problems (VW or Toyota - my other car), I find it useful to come here and ask "has anybody experienced this?" I usually get answers or at lease moral support.
I DON'T find it useful to come here after the fact and say, "this car is a piece of crap." We're here to help. I think you got a lemon, five11, sorry - happens to all makers.
So you put the padding beneath the changer, on the bottom? That's a good idea. I'll give it a try. As for FFwd'ing from the beginning to the middle of a track, hold down that scan <> button beneath the volume knob. Have you figured out how to use the MIX feature for all the discs, not just one? And refresh my memory -- did you get the Monsoon?
Also, what is the MIL light? I have never seen that light before. What does it mean, what makes it come on, and what is its function? Thanks!
I hit some real nasty downtown roads yesterday and did not have any skipping.
Yes I have the monsoon. I havent figured out multi-disc mix yet. But when I press the <> button below the volume knob it goes to the next (or previous) track, and what I am looking for is a way to scan thru a single track (i.e. fastforward thru a single song as it plays, most CD players have a way to do this). Maybe I need to press and HOLD the <> button to advance thru a track instead of press once and jumping to the next track?
Most MIL indications are minor, do not affect engine performance, and do not indicate severe damage. In my case, the lack of air to the turbo caused an air exchange valve to burn out. Again, nothing serious and an easy fix under warranty.
The car's been a pure joy!! You bought a 2001 protoge, didn't you? I like that new 5-door! It's very Euro-looking.
Vroooom =]
I am in the SUV market and recently read that VW is developing an SUV. Is this true? Can anybody tell me any details on this (release date, specs, etc)?????
Thank you!!
Isn't it sweet having the Monsoon and the changer? Man, this stereo absolutely kills. I've heard that changing the HU and replacing it with something like a Blaupunkt or Sony improves the sound even more, but I'm not one of those guys who needs a sub-woofer and bone-rattling bass and all that. To these ears, it sounds just fine...
Anyway, to FF and REW, hold down that <> button below the volume. As for using the MIX feature on all the discs, do this:
-Press and hold down the SCAN button until the VOLUME option appears. This is the default setting for the volume when you turn on the unit.
-Press SCAN again. The HU should read "MIX1."
-Turn the volume knob so it reads "MIX6."
-Press the SCAN button again.
You're all set, and the MIX mode will sample from all the CDs. Enjoy!
* The car burns oil rapidly between oil changes and requires maintenance
* My drivers side window fell into the door the other deal and after the secretary told me there was nothing they could do today (mind you, it was raining and I had a 1 hr commute home) I had the manager “help”...I was charged $200.
* The sunroof is broken (its $85 just for VW to look at it)
* Now the check engine light is on (I'm told just to check this there is a $68 charge)
Please note that all of these problems are not due to misuse of the car...at one time I ran a car detailing business and I treat the car very, very well and have been disheartened by its problems.
VW service is near horrible and the workers are very unsypathethic to any problems. Since its not one problem that recurs over and over I don’t qualify for the lemon-law…a loophole if you ask me.
I will never buy a VW again.
Feel free to ask me any questions.
I'm looking into leasing a GL (auto or manual) with the
same terms you have and will definitely want an extended
warranty. Just out curiousity, do you know what MF and
Residual were used in calculating your lease ?
i just bought a Jetta GLX 2001 with all the possible options...that's right, the 17" alloy-wheel with the sports suspension package, etc...i opted out for the CD changer...going to get an Alpine at Tweeter in the Boston area...
anyway, i paid $24,900 for it...still wondering if it's a fair price...a friend of mine said it's too much for a Jetta...he would opt for the Passat or Audi...
he's against the Jetta for a few reasons, but one it is that it's made in Mexico, thus quality build is questionable...
what's your take on the matters?
thanx.
Hooops: Sorry I honestly can't remember my quoted residual, I'll see if I can dig it up.