Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

koko164

I was reading posts some time ago about Tacoma concerns.
I'm here to report that I have many of the same on my
2002 Taco Xtnded Cab. Mine is 4wd, V6 Auto, no TRD, no Antilock brakes.
I have the "clunk" after releasing the brake petal after a stop.
It seems much, much less now that I disconnected the rear brake equalizing
valve rod (temp for xperimenting).
I also have "howl" noise when A/C is on, most noticeable at 1500 rpm.
And thirdly the power steering "whine" at low rpm manuvering (no the wheel isn't locked to the stop). A guy I work with also has the P/S whine on his V6 TRD.

I haven't been to the dealer about any of these worrys, they may be nothing.
Has anyone had any luck with their dealer getting any of these things fixed?

temple1

I have a 2002 Double cab V-6 and am experiencing the howling noise that is mentioned by koko 164. Has anyone found a resolution to this problem. The Toyota dealership told me this is normal. The noise is loud enough at 1500 RPM for me to hear it even when my radio is on. I have noticed that this does not appear to be as prevalent in the mornings when it is cooler outside. This leads me to believe that the problem could be pressure related. I am ready to take it back to Toyota and demand that this be resolved or have them by it back.

keadlega

I have a 01 Tacoma quad cab. I recently had to get the dealer to replace the rubber pads which separate the plastic molding around each fender from the body. The same day I picked it up after the repair the pads were already coming loose (can't take heat). I understand the 02 models have had this redesigned so that the rubber strip is actually one piece with the plastic molding. I was thinking about asking the dealer to install the 02 parts on my truck since I don't think the new pads will hold over time. The dealer wants to simply replace the rubber pads again. Any idea how I can find out how much the 02 parts would cost?

sberry2

Have a 98' tacoma xtra cab 4x4. The clutch will stay on the floor board at times. New clutch in 3 months ago. Took it back to the dealer and was told the bushings around the pedal spring need to be replaced. Has anyone else had this happen??

saupe130

Guys, got a 98 Tacoma TRD 4x4 ext cab 3.4L. I just hit 150K, and the Haynes manual says it is due for a front wheel bearing re-pack. Anubody doent his on one of these? It has ADD, too, and the Haynes manual is kind of elusive in that it just has that service listed kind of generically, as opposed to specifically for this model. Any info would be appreciated, as well as the relative difficulty of this operation if anyone has personally done it. I have a boatload of tools, and can occassionally turn a wrench the correct way, but if this is as complicated as a valve adjustment (which is also described and recommended at this point), I want someone who has more skill to handle it.

wilde1

I have the same problem. After coming to a complete stop, there is a thud in the rear end. I had the same problem with other 4x4's as well with auto trans. I got the same answer from the Toyota dealer as I did from the dealer's of the other 4x4's I've owned. The consistent answer I keep getting is the rear suspension "uncoiling" when stopping. Other than being an annoyance, it hasn't caused me any problems. The dealer here said it could be corrected with after-market parts but it doesn't bother me enough to do that.

759397

We just traded in our 1998 Tacoma V6 4x4 with 75k miles for Tundra and in those 75k miles...not one problem. Not even a rattle (other than that darn pen that slipped in between the dash and the windshield) going over bumps. One of the most solid vehicles I've ever owned.

So far the Tundra is wonderful.

My $0.02.

eagle63

What were your biggest complaints about the tacoma as well as your favorite things about it? just doing a little research. thanks.

ssimpson4

I posted a message yesterday about people repeating each other about the "clunk" when its been explained over and over(axle-wrap). However, someone edited the post and erased it. As the drive wheels are rolling forward it creates an opposite reaction and tries to turn the axles the opposite way. When you come to a stop by braking, you temporiraly hold it in this bind until you release the brake and it springs back in place causing the clunk. the only solution is stiffer springs but that would make your ride terrible. Best advise, just get used to it. Someone said they disconnected their load-sensing-proportioning-valve to try to solve it. That has NOTHING to do with it. Don't try things if you have no idea what your doing. Maybe this post wont get erased. Some people can't handle the truth.

mtngal

several people mentioned squeeky clutches, and I was very glad it wasn't happening to mine. Then a couple of weeks ago my 2000 Taco started doing it. It isn't very loud, and I only notice it once in a while. Guess I'll get something done about it next time I take it in to the dealer - maybe at the 90,000 mile servicing (should be in about 2 months) - it isn't that annoying. I'm glad that others have mentioned it on this board, so I know what to tell them.

I wish that this truck would give me a good reason for getting rid of it - it is still the most uncomfortable vehicle I've ever owned!

glfnute

I can't seem to find a thread on this but my 2001 Double cab has an annoying seat belt rattle. It's only on the front two and only happens when they're buckled. It's seems that is too much play between the clasp and the latch which is producing the rattle. Anyone else have/had this problem? More important, anyone have a fix?

v6doublecab

Just hit 17K on my DoubleCab V6, and while I was changing my oil, noticed a fluid underneath the power steering pump. I figured that since it was under warranty, go to the dealership. The said the pump was defective (I personally think it was just loose fittings, but whatever), and replaced it on warranty. Anybody else had the same problem?
And yes, I've also dealt with the loose weather stripping / molding on the fender flares (gone through !!2!! replacement sets and the annoying axle wrap. It was suggested that I grease the slip yoke to reduce the wrap, but I just think that creates an undue burden on the bearing surfaces from the tranny to the axle. At this point - I just live with it. I don't want to make the ride stiffer than it already is with AAL's - although if anyone has any suggestions about replacing the shocks/struts with something that'll offer more 'onroad' comfort would be appreciated. Thanks -don.

sc0rpi0

pump issue: something that just happens.
fenders: I guess you have 2001 DoubleCab. It's been fixed on 2002s, see if you can talk to your dealer about it.
Axle wrap: live with it. If you put AAL on the rear, your truck will not be level and you'll have to put a lift upfront too. An expensive way to fix something that happens to everyone, if you ask me.

As far as softer suspension goes: replace those Tohicos with Ranchos (although you may do a little bit of research first: Tohicos are there because Xtracab V6 Bilsteins can't support extra 500 lbs of DC weight without sagging) or other shocks and you should be fine. You can try using Bilsteins, although I don't know what the result will be. Probably lose a little height in the front, thats all.

v6doublecab

Sorry, Scorpio - I've got a 2002 and and they just won't stay on. The current set's been on for a couple of months - so we'll see. The service manager said that they offered a kit to fix the issue - but so far - whatever kit he has doesn't seem to hold up. I figure the better solution to applying the adhesive right to the plastic is to prep & paint the inside surface. So unless they give me the components - you know that'll never happen.
One thing I did find peculiar with the power steering pump fluid is that the factory fluid was tan, and the new stuff looks like red ATF. I'll have to go back to the dealership and open a bottle of steering pump fluid and check it out.
Last but not least - anybody installed the Powertrax No-slip locker? Been looking into and though quite a few folks dismantle the whole pumpkin - I thought you could just slide out the axles and install the components. Anyhow -don

sc0rpi0

check with www.tacomaterritory.com guys (in the forums). We got people who have installed them, just not me personally.
PS pump fluid is ATF, if you look in your owners manual.

v6doublecab

Cool, thanks. It's just peculiar that the factory fluid wasn't red. -don

wilde1

The reason some questions are repeated is to get as many people responding over time to filter out the garbage from what seem to be knowlegeable answers. Don't let yourself get too worked up over it. I appreciate your response. What's your background? Are you a professional Toyota mechanic or just espousing your opinions like everyone else?

koko164

Anyone else notice their 3.4 gets kinda rough
and loud around 2,800 to 3,200 rpm? Mine does
and I'll say I'm a little surprized by this
because my 3.0 in my Sienna is silky smooth from
idle to 5,000 rpm.

And on the axle wrap or whatever.. I notice that
if I throw my automatic into neutral just before
I come to a complete stop the "clunk" is completely
gone! Wouldn't the springs still wrap under braking
or is the tension relieved from being in neutral?

tacoma4me

Hey Smgilles,

You posted a message (#280) about fixing a rattle from the passenger side airbag. I have a 02 DC with the same rattle. Problem is that I don't have a Menards (internet shows it as a hardware store) and can't find the "window foam" that you used to fix your problem.

I looked at a local Home Depot, and found several different window foam possibility, but nothing that matched what I think you had. Was the stuff you used, glued on one side? soft foam, or a dense type? Did it come in a roll, or one single strip?

Any help would be appreciated. I love my truck, but would like to be rid of the rattle.

phil
Knoxville, TN

smgilles

Sorry, I thought Menards were like Walmarts, anywhere and everywhere.

The foam is soft and is a single strip with no tape on either side. It was a 3 foot strip (rolled up in the package). The dimensions were 1.5" x 1.5". I stuffed it between the windshield and dash the best I could with my fingers and then pushed it the rest of the way in with a ruler.

If you have anymore questions just ask!

smgilles

If you still can't find anything let me know and I will pick the foam up and mail it to you. It costs less than $5.00.

My email address is in my profile.

chiweiho

it's a dash cover fix, the dealer will replace the dash cover for free. try not to play the airbag cover, i think it will be a safety issue if you glue that thing.

tacoma4me

Thanks for the additional info Smgilles. I purchased the fix from a local Home Depot, and have installed. I will know in a few days if it helps or not. If not, I will take my chances with getting the dealer to fix it. Based on the number of posts about trouble with the dealer, I am hoping this works. I have a good dealer in the area, but if this works, I will be happy.

Chiweiho,
I am concerned about bypassing or interfering with the airbag also, but this is not close to the airbag, and isn't glued at all. I don't think it could have any bearing on them deploying at all. Thanks for the warning though. I would rather have someone remind me to be safe, then to ignorantly bypass something that I should not touch.

chiweiho

Tacoma4me,

oops, i thought it was spray foam. My truck had the rattles near the air bag, it took the dealer 2 weeks to do it. the dealers suck, but i am going thru arbitration with some other issues with the truck. So i want to keep all my records with the dealer/factory.

tacoma4me

Chiweiho,

sorry to hear your having to go that far to get a problem fixed. I hope it all works out ok. I just bought a Dodge van, and had problems with it right out the door, so I understand.

I am hoping that my Tacoma holds up well. I did a lot of research before making my purchase, but I know that you can get a lemon with any brand. I am also thankful that the dealer that I worked with has been exceptional. I have been back a couple of times for maintiance, and once for a repair, and was well pleased.

Your right too, I think the spray foam could cause problems.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

tacoma4me

Just to clarify....

I bought and drive a Tacoma about 10 months ago, but also bought a Dodge Grand Carryvan (family hauler) just a few weeks ago. I love and drive my truck, but needed the van for the family. I have had trouble with the van since the start, but no problems with my beloved Tacoma.

The van is now finally all fixed..... took a call to the dealership owner for some help. By the way, got a good deal on the van, with a flip down vcr/tv for the kids (for free), works great.

bstout

My 2000 Tacoma is still holding back a little intermittently. I cleaned the throttle body and it didn't change. I replaced the spark plugs and still there. I called the dealer to get a new fuel filter and he said they no longer change them at 30,000 intervals and mine should still be good even at 47k. If I take it off and can blow air through it he said its probably okay. I wonder about re-using the washers that go on the banjo bolts again. Under hard acceleration I can feel it holding back and sometimes it momentarily drops out and when you let off the gas it comes right back but still feels a little gas starved. Any suggestions anyone?

smgilles

Do you use a drop in "oil" air filter like K&N, Amsoil, or TRD..? The oil from these filters can stick to the MAF (Mass Air Flow Meter) or let fine dust particles through, the MAF measures how much air is coming through it by using what's called a "hot wire". This wire can get fouled up and cause your truck to hesitate and run "rough". You will find the MAF right behind your air box and is held into the air flow tube by 2 screws and a wiring harness. Unplug the wiring harness and take out the two screws, then take some NON-RESIDUE (QUICK DRYING) electrical parts cleaner and clean the wire.

**The non-residue, quick drying cleaner is very important and esential. If you fry the MAF you are out $300.00.**

This is just a guess for all I know you have a Toyota OEM paper filter, but it doesn't hurt to pull the MAF and visually inspect it.

bstout

Hi Shane: I was hoping you'd see my post. You've given me great advice in the past. I never use anything other than Toyota parts with the exception of motor oil. I did have a problem with mice getting into my air cleaner compartment and chewing a hole into my air cleaner and depositing some sunflower seeds. I replaced the air cleaner with the factory Toyota unit and put a small piece of window screen between the input to the box and the clamp to keep the mice out. Could some of the seed debris have gotten up into the injectors or somewhere? That was 20k ago when that happened.

smgilles

No, I highly doubt that any debris from sunflower seeds would cause any problems with the MAF. Do you spend a lot of time of gravel/dirt roads..? That could "foul" it up, but the Toyota OEM filters are pretty efficient. Also, no debris is going to be able to get to your injectors unless the fuel filter has let debris pass into to them. Have you tried any type of fuel injector treatment with a tank of gas just as trial and error..?

I have heard the samething as you about the fuel filters, not needing to change them, but what you describe does sound like a clogged filter.

I will keep thinking and get back to you, also try www.tacomaterritory.com as people there may have had the same issues as your now having.

bstout

Shane: I found the problem. I really thought it was a fuel problem. Turned out to be air! The mouse proof piece of window screen I placed at the inlet to the air cleaner box turned out to be plugged with these little yellow butterflies we have here in Wisconsin. When I looked at the screen through the inlet hole in low light they weren't visible. When I removed the three bolts that hold the air cleaner box and pulled the screen out that I had pinched/press fit in between the inlet tube and housing the butterflies were obvious. They had the screen plugged. My driveway is gravel and one half mile long and after it rains its filthy with these little yellow butterflies. I appreciate the encouragement and tech support that comes from this group. Without your nudging to look for the obvious problem myself I'd have been at the mercy of the dealer/servicer. They'd of had a hay day with this. I'm going to check the screen on a regular basis from here on out. Thank you Shane!

bstout

Still doing it. The butterflies were not the problem. It still wants to hold back and intermittently cut out around 2200rpm under hard acceleration. I guess I'll try some injector cleaner in the next tank of gas. Which brand name would you suggest Shane? I see quite a variety as far as price goes. Is the injector cleaner hard on the fuel pump or any o-rings or are these products relatively safe to use. I hate to change the fuel filter due to its $37.00 price tag but I'm running out of things to try.

jason8691

My 02 Taco Xcab dash rattled next to the passenger airbag too. The dealer managed to track down the problem after 4 days. First they tried the foam like everybody else, but that didnt do anything but quiet the rattle a little. They eventually tracked it down to one of the brackets that holds the air-bag. Their fix was to bend it slightly with a pair of pliers to relieve the tension on it. And miracle of miracles, it worked. I hope this helps the rest of you with this annoying rattle in an otherwise perfect truck.

bstout

I dumped in a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner last night and drove my usual 45 mile commute. Also on the way into work this morning it happened a couple of times again. Its still feeling a little gas starved. I hate to take it to the dealer but I'm running out of ideas. I wonder if they can hook up their diagnostic tool and go right to the problem? My fear is that they spend a bunch of time with it and can't find the problem or worse, replace a bunch of stuff and it doesn't fix the problem. I also have the rattling dash problem which is also located over the air bag. I've been using a small piece of black air compressor line about one half inch long between the dash and the windshield. I wonder if you can access the air bag support without taking the dash apart? I also have the squeaky clutch pedal again, anybody know the cure for this?

bstout

I spoke with the local dealer about my intermittent cutting out and his response was that they've been getting a lot of this lately. He continued to tell me that unless the check engine light was lit they probably wouldn't be able to locate any problem. I've heard that any emission control problems are under warranty for 50k and I'm at 49k. I'd sure like to get to the bottom of this soon.

bstout

I always use premium gasoline 93. Maybe I should use plain old unleaded gas.

smgilles

When you put in the new plugs did you gap them correctly (what about wires)....not trying to say you don't know what you are doing, just asking.

Also, with the gas, the only reason you should be running 93 octance is if you are supercharged. As long as the octane is 87 or higher you are fine.

I don't think your truck cutting out would have anything to do with emissions. If you have a bad 02 sensor the engine light would trip and your truck would run rich or lean, but not cause it to cut out. A plugged catalytic converter could make it run sluggish but I highly doubt at 49,000 miles that would be the case.

Are you sure it is a "fuel starvation" problem and not a transmission problem...? Does the transmission feel like its slipping rather than just cutting out...? Since you have a manual tranny I doubt that is it either. It's hard to diagnose a problem without seeing it firsthand.

For your clutch squeak problem there is a TSB that addresses that issue. You can find it at http://www.alldata.com

mtngal

I have a 2000 4 cyl. 2WD Tacoma that does fine with just about the cheapest 87 octane gas I can find (usually ARCO or Flying J). I've never had any problems like you are describing and it has over 84,000 miles on it (last time I looked several days ago), and my commute involves significant altitude gains at freeway speeds.

It occasionally grinds when going into 1st gear, mostly when I'm at a stop sign/light. Would this intermittent problem be the clutch or tranny? I'm guessing tranny since it only does it in 1st, but I'm certainly no mechanic. Since it only does this once in a while, I haven't bothered taking it to the dealership. Last time I had tranny problems (acted like synchro rings), the dealership said "could not duplicate" and about a week after I picked it up they went away. If they can't find an active problem, they won't find this really intermittent problem!

whatnow2

I own a 2001 tacoma 4wd 6 cyl 5 speed manual. I think I recall a series of messages here (or before the thread change) about "hitches" in 1st to 2nd shifting and synchro ring problems. I've yet to bring this to the dealer, but can anyone give me an update or advice? So far, the problem is minor and seems to go away when the transmisssion is hot (30 miles or more). thanks.

saupe130

Mtngal,

Some of the older trucks had a problem with the slave/clutch master cylinder developing a slow leak. I haven't heard of it on the Tacoma series, but as they get older the seals DO wear a bit. You might check the fluid level on regular intervals for a while to see if you are losing any juice. If it is low, the clutch may not be completely disengaging the driveline from the engine and this could cause the phenomenon you describe. I know this is kind of an obvious possible fix, but sometimes I tend to look for something more complicated than it really is and I didn't want you to overlook it.

bstout

Shane: The plugs that were in my truck when it came from the factory were gapped at .035. My chilton manual says something different I think .040 or more maybe. I used the same gap that the factory used. I don't think its spark plug related. The condition hasn't been there all along. I would think if the transmission was slipping the engine rpm would increase and not decrease. I'm also willing to bet that if I had an automatic transmission it would conceal this condition. The service man at the dealer thought bad fuel and I notice that depending on where I fill up it changes so it does seem to be fuel related situation. Just for the sake of argument, if a sunflower seed got passed the air cleaner, where would it end up?

smgilles

It would end up in the throttle body. Have you taken it off and cleaned it out....?

floydsun

I believe the gap is .44
A tank of premium usually clears up that problem. Or a can of SeaFoam.

bstout

Shane: I pulled the hose going to it from the air cleaner box and took a tooth brush, scrubbed out the brown stuff laying on the bottom and cleaned the butterfly valve. I used gum out carb cleaner and sprayed it around on the inside of the throttle body so it all appeared to be clean. Actually it wasn't very dirty.

Could I spray carb cleaner into the throttle body with the engine running so that it gets suck inside or is that not a good idea?

bstout

I looked on Alldata's site for the TSB on the clutch pedal squeak and didn't see one for it.

I've been keeping the portion of the spring (center) where it comes in contact with the pedal arm (metal on metal) lubed with white lithium grease and it seems to work for a couple of months before I have to do it again. You have to fully depress the clutch pedal in order to access this point. Does anyone have a full time cure?

smgilles

I would say what you have done it good enough for the throttle body. As far as the clutch I don't know what the "real" cure is, but I do know there is a TSB and I will look for it and post it so you can read or take to the dealer or shop so they can fix it for good.

smgilles

Here is the permanent fix: Good luck:)

http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mechanical/ClutchPedal/ClutchBushing.htm

bstout

Thanks Shane, looks like GREAT FUN!

Oh well, I really didn't need that skin on my third knuckle anyway!!

whatnow2

OK -- no posts in over a week and a half? did i jinx it or what? or, is this a "family" only thread? i was hoping for some help, but maybe i'm not of the annointed. seems several toyota-related chats are taken over by 5 or 6 people who enjoy their own teapot but outsiders aren't welcome. oh well - lots of other venues...

sc0rpi0

You mean it's hard to shift into 2nd or 1st when its cold?
I've had that problem, but using Redline tranny fluid fixed it for me. Another trick, I don't know how verified it is, is to adjust the clutch pedal to stick out a little more, maybe it's not aligned properly at the factory. Other than that, you didn't jinx it, maybe Tacomas are just awesome and have no problems