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Camry 2011 transmission problem

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Comments

  • For those who can't stand the 2011 Camry... THANK YOU.

    Your "issues" have allowed me to purchase a Camry for thousands less than I expected.

    Yes the system makes noises the first time it reaches 9mph.

    Yes the transmission constantly shifts

    Yes the valve train is noisy at low engine speeds

    Every one of the complaints here are perfectly valid.

    This is our fourth Camry and with each one the technology has improved and we have to accept some changes with it. Fuel injection was a big change. Hey, remember the first time you had ABS and didn't modulate the brake pedal any more? Lots of changes over the years and the 2011 has more in this one car than all the rest combined.

    This time the Camry requires we drive normally so it can learn our habit. If we kept changing to adapt to the way the car drives and the car keeps changing to adapt to the way we drive .........Well, lets just say it's the automotive equivalent of a dog chasing it's tail.

    With Vehicle Skid Control, Electric Steering, Variable Intake and Exhaust timing, Stop Assist, Six Speed Transmissions, Sensors that know your weight (variable air-bag system)............. Heck, it's so tech'd out that the ECU functions as a black box so the dealer knows if you've been abusing the car. There are more sensors on this thing than an airplane (not kidding.)

    So anyway........
    For all those that hate the 2011 Camry, my wife and I thank you. With the beat down you've given the Camry we were able to buy one for WAY less than we expected.

    We LOVE it and don't find any of it's "PROBLEMS" more than the typical adjustment required with any of our other Camrys. Every day it's getting smoother and smoother and quieter and quieter. Our old Camry got 35mpg on the Highway. I've heard that this one will get that or better so I'm really looking forward to the ten years of ownership.

    Ciao'
    Keith
  • purupuru Posts: 11
    If you are shopping for a new car, you should try Nissan Altima or Maxima.

    Thanks for sharing the toyotacomplaint link, I have an appointment with the dealership sometime next week, following which I am going to file a complaint with NHTSA.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    edited February 2011
    We've seen more complaints about Nissan vehicles in the past year than just about any manufacturer, I believe. Transmission, in particular, seems to be a big issue. There is NO perfect car, but I definitely suggest checking out complaints in these forums before shopping - some defects are either minor, or not at all widespread, or just stuff you could personally live with. Others... not so much.

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  • purupuru Posts: 11
    I don't know what you are trying to prove here.

    Instead of helping others who are going through the frustrations/helplessness with their new car, you are just making fun of all those who are suffering.

    Its great that you don't find any problems with your new car, happy for you.
    We are sorry that we didn't have enuf posts. Another 50-60 postings on this would have helped reduced your price by another few thousands..rite ??

    You probably don't understand the misery of the people who have put their hard earned money in a new car, just to find out that the car has tons of problems and that they are now stuck !
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I was speaking more specifically about the Escape hybrid.
  • petras2petras2 Posts: 104
    I don't think kbetts1 was making fun of anyone..he is trying to make the point that there have been changes and improvements in car safety, fuel economy, etc.. some of these changes come with differences in drivability or new noises they haven't experienced in their previous cars..in many cases these things are not defects..I've noticed these differences in my 2010 camry, mainly the transmission lag during coasting..also the clicking noise during initial acceleration,(abs self-test btw)...it's not that big of a deal to me and I was able to adjust my driving style..
  • kbetts1kbetts1 Posts: 36
    edited February 2011
    Puru...
    I don't know what "problems" you are experiencing but I said from what I've been reading in this thread that the complaints were valid. The Camry does those things, but they aren't "PROBLEMS."
    Most likely your new 2011 Camry does not have "TONS OF PROBLEMS." The computer monitors your car. It performs diagnostics. It tells you when you have a problem. No lights, no problems.

    The more new technology designed to save a life the more they have issues people have trying to adapt to it.

    Take anti-lock brakes for example. For a LONG time wouldn't put their full force on the brake pedal because the pedal started pulsing as the ABS kept the wheels from locking up sending the car into a skid. The car companies spent millions trying to educate drivers how to use the brakes.

    What do people do? They STILL refuse to step hard on the brake pedal. So now the Camry has brake assist to add force. It also has stability control system, and electronic brake force distribution which are unnecessary if the driver is skilled.

    But PEOPLE WON"T LEARN. SO ALL I CAN DO IS SAY THANK YOU BECAUSE YOUR REFUSING TO LEARN BASIC INFORMATION SAVED ME A TON OF MONEY.

    Out of compassion I did a search for those with misbehaved transmissions...If your transmission is still giving you fits then you can try to make it re-learn to shift right by doing this...

    Toyota U660E service manual on initializing the transmission
    2. PERFORM ROAD TEST TO ALLOW TCM TO LEARN
    NOTICE:
    Perform the following procedures while strictly
    observing all traffic laws and speed limits.
    (a) From a standstill, achieve highest possible speed
    with the accelerator pedal opened 15% or less.
    Keep the accelerator pedal angle steady while
    driving the vehicle.
    (b) Repeat the previous step until shift shock no longer
    occurs.
    (c) From a standstill, achieve highest possible speed
    with the accelerator pedal opened 25% or more.
    Keep the accelerator pedal angle steady while
    driving the vehicle.
    (d) Repeat the previous step until shift shock no longer
    occurs.

    If the above doesn't work, try hitting it in the nose with a rolled up newspaper.

    Seriously, I don't know if it works or not because my engine and transmission are learning to behave themselves just fine.
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    first i want to thank all for posting with your experiences and advice,
    i am at the point of total confusion, not knowing which new car to trade for or to just keep the crappy camry and put a sign in the back window PLEASE EXCUSE MY DRIVING BUT AFTER ALL IT IS A NEWER CAMRY ! or TOYOTA SUCKS etc etc
    also, the posts that state we need to learn how to drive the newer technology
    1. I bought a Toyota Camry based on my experience with the 2005, I absolutely LOVED that car and never had a minutes problem with it ( if not for my accident I would still be driving it )
    2. I have never had to learn to drive a car - I have been driving for 40 years
    3. If new technology means a jerky tranny and a car that never drives the same twice then I am all for OLD TECHNOLOGY - you know put key in ignition, turn key, push pedal and go !
    no jerking, no whining noises from under the hood, smooth acceleration etc etc

    I am just beside myself at this point as to what to do ! It is a chore to even drive to and from work ! I am considering taking the car to an independent transmission specialist to have an evaluation done on it.
    Big SIGH !!!!!
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    please post again and let us know how you make out
    maybe just maybe one day "they" will admit they have an issue and do something to straighten it out
    big pipe dream I know !
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    You are wrong on two points.

    The automotive manufacturers waited far too long before even trying to educate the public on ABS, its use and purpose. In the meantime every IDIOT salesman and in the system, along with every KNOW-IT-ALL, was telling customers that ABS purpose was to help them stop quicker, and/or in a shorter distance.

    NOT..!!

    Have you EVER seen, even today, outside the newer owners manuals, any effort by the manufacturers to educate customers on how to use and the REAL purpose of ABS...?

    ABS takes LONGER to stop in most cases.

    The initialization procedure is only appropriate for use if/when the battery has been disconnected and the previously "learned" parameters are lost.
  • kbetts1kbetts1 Posts: 36
    edited February 2011
    The ABS was just an example of technology/education breakdown.

    The ABS is used to prevent wheel lock up which will allow the driver to continue to steer to avoid objects while braking, not for shorter stops. On some low friction surfaces (ice, sand), ABS will stop shorter than all but the most skilled driver without ABS even when staying in a straight line.

    I'm a systems specialist. Part of my job dealing with aerospace systems was to educate users on system parameters and keep operator input inside those parameters. Operator induced oscillation (Pilot induced oscillation in aircraft) is a major source of system failure.
    This transmission issue is a perfect example of poor education. I've been reading about it ever since the problem first appeared in 2007 with the new Camry. Now with the six speed it's even more pronounced.

    If the transmission is shifting as poorly as these guys say, it needs to be initialized again. I'd also check the fluid level just to make sure it's not an issue. Last step would be to put it on the diagnostic computer and see if any codes were set. If that was all good then I know the problem was not the car, it was me.

    On another forum a guy said his car ran great after he got it back from the mechanic who did an extended test drive (70 miles) Then as he drove it, it started messing up again. Can there be any question that the driver is the problem a significant amount of the time?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "....If the transmission is shifting as poorly..."

    What is actually happening is that the transmission is shifting so often it is discomforting to most drivers, including this one. The most modern transmissions are shifting so often because they are programmed to always be in the most optimal gear ratios for current driving conditions. With simple 3 or 4 speed transmission the range of each gear was so wide 4th was satisfactory for a wide range of road conditions.

    But now with these new 6(10) speed transmissions the most optimal gear ratio is changing constantly due to even the slightest change in driving/road conditions.

    Where these CVT's then the shifting would not be noticeable but with standard gear sets it leaves the driver with a bit of unease.

    "...it started messing up again..."

    It is highly likely the mechanic cleared the learned memory and 70 miles would NOT be enough for a complete parametric "relearn". As I said before it might take 200-2000 miles for a complete relearn.

    So the owner got the car back before it had completed all of the re-initialization process.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    When I first purchased the '01 F/awd the coastdown fuel "lurching" was quite discomforting, maybe more like disconcerting. But within a few months I was so adapted to it I had to focus my mind on the "feel" of I did not take notice.

    I assume the same thing might happen with all the "shiftiness" of these new 6(10) speed transmissions. I've only driven one, rental, for a week or so. So maybe. Meantime when I start looking to purchase gain I'll give special priority to a CVT....or PSD.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Hi All:

    I am presently in the market for a new 2012 vehicle! ----- At the present time, I own a 2010 Chevrolet LTZ 4 cylinder Malibu, and a 2007 Toyota XLE V6 Camry. -------- (Both vehicles were purchased new, and are serviced by the selling dealer every 2,500 miles, and both vehicles have a 6 speed automatic transmission.) ----- If you review the history of the 2007 Camry you will find owners who have had all kinds of problems with this vehicle. ---- I presently have 63,000 + miles on this vehicle, and I have NEVER experience any of the problems that have been presented on these boards, so as such, I will be looking at a 2012 Camry, or a 2012 Avalon. ---------- (There is a possibility that if I run across a one year old Camry or Avalon, at a dealer, with full warranties I will go in that direction.)

    I service & drive my vehicles in a unique fashion!

    1.) I always warm up the engine during the winter months before starting out on my trip. ---- (My choice! ----- I know it is not recommended, ----- but I make my own decisions in my life! ---- On cold mornings I need to get the frost off the windows. ---)

    2.) For the first few blocks I operate the 6 speed trans in the manual mode. ----- I set the selector to #3. --- I do not allow the trans to shift into 4th gear. --- I continue to operate the vehicle in this fashion until I feel the trans is up to operating temperature. ---- When I enter the highway, I place the selector into automatic drive position. (I have NEVER had an operational problem with the transmission. Some Toyota owners have complained about a "rpm flare up on the 3 to 4 and the 4 to 3 shift when the vehicle is driven on a cold start!)

    3.) I change the engine oil and filter every 2,500 miles at the dealer, and I use a dealer recommended oil additive BG / MOA at every oil and filter change. --- This additive controls the "sludge problem!" ---- (The engine does not use any oil between oil and filter changes. I drive extensively on the highway on long over the road trips at 65mph for hours!)

    4.) The Camry has Michelin tires, and I easily get 30mpg on long trips. (I have also gotten as high as 34+ mpg on long highway trips at 60mph! ----My 2010 4 cylinder Malibu only get 27mpg on the highway. ----- Both vehicles have a 6 speed automatic trans.)

    5.) The Camry seating is very comfortable, and the performance of the power train is outstanding. --------( I would love to go "head to head" with a Ford Mustang with this V6 Camry coming out of a toll booth on the Graden State Parkway. ---- I know that the Mustang will eventually beat the Camry "if" it has the BIG ENGINE, --- but from a dead stop, ---- the Camry would hold its own to 60mph, (depending on the skill of the Mustang driver, and the engine in the Mustang.)

    I would purchase a 2012 V6 Camry or Avalon in a heart beat! ----- I see them as a high quality product, and I have an OUTSTANDING dealer to keep the vehicle running great.

    Best regards. --------------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • Buy another Camry and then we can look forward to your praises of its outstanding features..The 4 cyl Malibu is not much of a car, and the 4 banger Camry is much superior..Never owned one, however I have a 2002 XLE in the garage which is a trouble -free to date..

    I was going to buy a 2011 Camry SE, 4 banger at a huge discount, however I stumbled onto the tranny glitches which changed my mind. The SE series is the only Camry I would own due to its upgraded suspension goodies which enhances the handling eliminating the mushy handling of all Camrys including the Avalon..

    My current rides are a supercharged 2006 Pontiac and a 2010 Mustang GT which are not the greatest for fit and finish, however fun items to drive..Living in Fla the roads are great, which tends to up the speeds on the xway so handling is important and triple-digits are quite common..

    The V-6 Camry is pricey, but handles the a/c better at high speeds...Good luck on your Chevy, for it will only get worse..trade it.. Yep, I am a Big3 fan having owned 51 Big3 cars, but most of the economy cars out from the Big3 in the past have failed in MPG scene and worse in the durability factor..
  • WWEST,
    There are a lot of unknowns so maybe you're right. But my personal experience says different and that the 'learning' is very fast.

    We live three miles down a winding hilly road with a 25mph speed limit (not quite a roller coaster road, but close). At first our car was clunky and the transmission was often in the wrong gear lugging down the motor. The shifts were very loud and could be felt. After the first 100 miles on the car the transmission has always been in the right gear. No downshifting, no gear hunting, no hard shifts. Shifts on the highway are now almost seamless and I'm sure after a few more months of ownership the differences between our 2003 and our new 2011 will be forgotten.

    All I can tell you is that I've experience all the "PROBLEMS" everyone else has and they were gone after the first week (120 miles). The engine is getting quieter but it's still noisier than our old 2.4L. This new 2.5 has 15 more horsepower and is more than a second faster accelerating to 60mph so a little noise under throttle is a good trade off. Just cruising down the road, this 2011 is MUCH quieter than our old Camry. I think it might be quieter than our 2008 Avalon who's tires are getting noisy.

    This is our fourth Camry. What a great car. Sorry for those who are struggling but my wife and I think this car is a fantastic improvement. We are thrilled. We don't know of any other car in this class that's better for us and we've driven a lot of them.
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    how exactly do you check the fluid levels - there is no dip stick in the new camry
    I also had taken my car to the dealership and after being told there were no issues, was told there was a tsb so they reset the codes, car ran ok for an hour then back to the same old issue again
    this car has 2400 miles on it and drives like crap
  • kbetts1kbetts1 Posts: 36
    edited February 2011
    The dealer has a procedure to check the fluid level. Insist on it if you are still having trouble. It's a huge PIA requiring multiple steps so they won't do it unless you tactfully ask for it. I have no clue how to 'tactfully' do anything so I'd just find the procedure online and threaten that if they don't do it, I'd do it myself.

    Insist the following things get checked!!!!

    Check the battery health. A weak battery or a battery with a shorted cell will not allow the system to operate correctly. This can be done quickly by the dealer at little cost.

    If that is good, then:
    Check the ground straps from engine/transmission to chassis and chassis to neg battery. A poor ground will prevent the electronics from operating correctly

    If that is good, then;
    Check the transmission fluid level. Low fluid level will cause multiple problems including hard shift.

    If that is good then;
    Perform diagnostic performance tests. The dealer can interrogate the computer and run diagnostic checks on the transmission to insure full operation.

    I can't think of anything else that would cause the issue except a driver/car interface problem.

    I can tell you are frustrated with your car. When you get to a certain point it's really tough to recapture an objective attitude. If you're not a car guy it's even harder because you rely on others to correct any issues.

    This transmission "problem" can't always be solved by the dealer. Even if the transmission is perfect, it requires the driver to drive normally even if it shifts too hard or too often. Hope things improve for you soon.
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    thank you
    i will call the dealer today and see if i can schedule an appt to have all of that done
    hope it gets better because I am out of ideas for trade in
    every car i read about has some issue or another
    thanks again and yeah i hope things get better too
  • purupuru Posts: 11
    kbetts1,
    Thank you !! I can see that you are genuinely trying to help people who are having problems.
    Sorry for my out burst earlier , I was pissed off with the problems with this camry model. As you have said " When you get to a certain point it's really tough to recapture an objective attitude " and this is what happens to me too :)
    I am not a car guy and never paid much attention to the engineering and how stuff works. However after I bought this car and started experiencing these problems with transmission , I started reading and writing stuff on these forums.
    Like delbar, I too have spend hours researching on these issues and so far I have got no where.
    But, I always have a positive attitude and I hope the car just gets better !!
  • purupuru Posts: 11
    Delbar,
    Had an appointment with the dealership yesterday.
    Again we went through the same list of complaints that I have been facing. Nothing new, they always have answers ready, some of which are pure BS.

    Anyways, they had it inspected by their Lead Technician. After two hours of wait , all they did was a "learned memory reset". The said that they checked the transmission fluid, software version and it was all fine.

    So, back to where I started. As per them the car will start "learning" again and I should see some difference after 2-3k miles.

    May be I will forget driving by the time the car has finished learning :)
    I can't believe I paid a fortune just to make a new car learn how to drive smooth and correct.
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    i know what you mean, last time i was at the dealership i heard that I was the only person that ever had these issues and when i directed them to this website ( and several others) they said edmunds.com was full of __it
    etc. I too am so depressed after paying for this car and having these problems. I am at 2500 miles now and dont feel much difference in this car at all - one day it drives "normallY' and others it is back to driving like a garbage truck. I see signs on the road all the time "Cash for Junk Cars" and say hmmmmmmmm !! Still shopping around to trade in here but hate to lose money on this one - Have a 3 day weekend coming so may drop back by the dealership to let them know I am still having issues.
    AAAAAAAARGHHHHHHHHHHHH
  • Peru and delbar,
    Sorry to hear that you are still having problems. I've been thinking some more about this issue. You both have 4cly engines? You both are conservative / fuel conscious drivers? You both drive for extended times below 45 mph?

    If you could compare your driving situation, maybe you could come up with some commonality areas to help isolate the cause or possibly help generate a work around.
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    kbetts
    thanks for your input
    I am just at a loss for words right now! Wish there were an easy solution to this problem. I am now afraid to trade it in for fear that I will trade for a bigger problem. I hear hybrids dont have this issue but cant afford a hybrid
    big sighs here !!!!!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Hybrids don't have "these" problems because they use a form of CVT, the PSD, Power Split Device. There are a few cars with an actual CVT now in the marketplace.
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    do you happen to have a list of the cars or SUV's with CVT ?
    thanks
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Sorry, no...

    Google.....
  • purupuru Posts: 11
    kbetts1,
    I have a 4 cyl engine. Not conservative on fuel. I don't pay much attention to what mileage I get. I do drive mostly above 45mph.

    I posted a few days back that the dealer cleared the learned memory. I have driven around 100 miles after that and the car seems OK.
    Earlier I used to experience a lot of intermittent "engine breaking" which seems to be ok after the reset. Drives much better at lower speeds. Never had a major complaint at higher speeds.
    The only concerns right now I have is the hard shifting. And it in mainly during the first few miles after I start my car. It pauses for a second or so and then shifts into the next gear. Why is this happening ? Does it go away after a few hundred miles ?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Clearing the "learned" memory should have no effect in the long term, the ECU will simply relearn, over time, the same control parameters all over again.

    Are you certain a "reflash" (TSB?) that would have long term effect wasn't done....?
  • petras2petras2 Posts: 104
    I think that "pause" in gear shift you are experiencing is due to the cold engine and an intentional design...i notice that in my 98 and 2010 toyotas..I think keeping the rpms higher briefly warms up the engine quicker..within several minutes as the engine warms up the transmission begins to shift normally..
  • What are the ambient temperatures when the problem occurs? I'd look at everything.... type of gas used, air temperature, for that matter even air pressure in the tires, climate, altitude, terrain, driving style.

    I'd change as many of those factors as reasonable until I got a change in performance. Bump up your air pressure 5psi, start using premium gas, see if the problem occurs on warm days, drive the car like you stole it once in a while, take the long way home. Unless you are willing to change you'll never find the solution.

    Every problem has a solution and a positive attitude is everything. There IS a bright side that will keep these type of issues in perspective. Hang in there.
  • petras2petras2 Posts: 104
    The ambient temperatures vary from below 0 to the high 90's but the shift delay only occurs when the engine is cold or hasn't been run for several hours..on an extremely cold day the shift delay is evident for a longer time period than on a warm day...after 3-5 minutes of driving, the shifting returns to normal..as i mentioned before, I don't consider this a problem, just a "design quirk"..my toyota service manager said the same thing..
  • I believe your symptoms indicate a slightly low transmission fluid level.

    As I said earlier, checking the fluid level is a pain in the butt because the transmission must be hot to get a good reading. Because there is no dip stick it requires removing plugs and using your finger or visually checking for overflow. I don't have the exact procedure, but I think it can only be accessed from below the car. Sticking your arm into a hot motor/transmission area is zero fun especially as the exhaust system is right there too.

    Based on my four decades of experience with dealership service centers, when the procedure is even slightly complicated I seriously doubt any auto repair tech is going to do the necessary steps to check it unless he absolutely has to.

    So all the words in the world from a service rep don't mean squat unless they have the integrity to go through the whole CORRECT (meaning while hot) service procedure to verify the fluid levels on these transmission that are having problems. I'm guessing that low fluid level is the majority of the issues with these transmission and a difficult service procedure is the reason it's not fixed.

    There is an additional issue with the shifting where the transmission is told to short shift pretty much skipping a gear (1st to 3rd, 2nd to 4th, 3rd to 5th) and spending less than a second in the middle gear.

    Overall it's an interesting issue but one Toyota needs to look at if they expect repeat customers. I do hope that a everyone gets it fixed because it's annoying.
  • Problem solved, better economy, and life returns to normal..My 06 Pontiac Grand Prix GT does its final shift at 45mph....or higher if the gas pedal is crushed..RPMs drop to 1250 @45mph..My other ride is a 5 speed man shift Mustang GT..

    I first visited this website after I took the Pontiac in for tradein value on a 2011 Camry SE-4banger w/auto..$5000 reduction from MSRP on Camry, looked like a great deal until I came across the "mysterious shifting" and decided to cancel the balance of the deal..

    Having a 2002 Camry XLE in my garage, I can attest that it's a trouble free ride, not exciting, but does basic automotive expectations very well..However I was in no mood to fight the service dept or whomever had to be involved over a shifting pattern or it's perceived shifting behavoir..

    Anyone owning a mis-shifter, just drive it and if falls apart, then the fun begins...Sure would not rush out to trade into something else which may have a completely new "Quirk." Cars are fun items, but also can be a money-pit with headaches galore.. Camry builds a good car, however I didn't wish to push my luck..any increase in gas mileage could be offset by medical expenses incurred by frustration over your transmissions behavior...it's a losing game..
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    It would be a safe bet that the dealer service personel have been forewarned against even checking the ATF level, let alone "topping off" above factory fill levels.

    It's now SEALED for a good reason.
  • I brought my 2011 SE Camry the day before X'mas. Took a trip home, approx 400 miles round trip. When i came back, i noticed everything you said happening to my car. In addition, when i'm braking, the care idles up and when driving btw 30 to 45mph, the gears shifts inconsistent. Sometimes jerking me. To be a brand new Camry, the car runs awful. Car has about 4,000 miles on it now because we have been traveling alot and it is running worst than ever. I took it to the dealer and of course they say nothing is wrong. How is your car running now?
  • Wow! Your problems are very specific and they are on point of what is going on with my 2011 SE. I only had the car for a 2 months and all of the above are my issues too. I took my car to the dealer two times and they say nothing is wrong with it. This is UNBELIEVABLE. Was anything ever resolved with your car? I contacted the Toyota Customer Service and put in a complaint. Don't know how that will turn out. I hate my car and won't even drive it. I would rather drive my 1997 Ford Expedition with 199,000 miles. It has a better ride. UNBELIEVABLE! Please reply back to me and let me know what is going on with your car.
  • I sincerely understand what you are going through. I feel the same way about mine. I want to trade it in, but i put $5000 down and i know i will lose out if i trade. Toyota is full of it! I think we need to start a class action suit.
  • delbardelbar Posts: 32
    mine now has a little over 3000 miles on it and still having the issue.
    2 trips so far to toyota and of course they say all is "normal"
    car jerks into lower gears, car skips, sluggish acceleration at times and when braking car feels like it is being "pulled" to one side and binds. I also have a low "whiny" noise coming from under the hood when accelerating and when braking. I filed a complaint with toyota headquarters and they closed the case once the dealership found nothing wrong. I have downloaded a form from NHTSA site to fill out but have not had time to do that yet. I want to trade mine in too - problem is I paid cash for the car and will be out $ if I do unless I can trade keys for something else. I am also wondering why the local dealership has about 12 used 2011 Camry's with very low mileage for sale on their lots, some were rentals but others show two owners. I am also concerned that if I keep taking it in for service the carfax on the car will bring down the trade in value as well !
    This is a dilemma that I think of every day and I hate driving this car ! Am going to try and fill out my NHTSA form this weekend and get that started as well. anyway - what really can we do ?? are we screwed or what ??!!
    so sick of thinking about it and so sick of driving I wish I could take a cab to work !!
    I also have found innovative routes to and from work to avoid some of the white knuckle experiences ! This is just ridiculous ! Also, my daughter has an 09 RAV-4 and has 20K on it and needed a brake job already, and is now still having noise from her brakes !! Toyota of is making crap for vehicles now and I am sure they have so many complaints they cant keep up with them ! Anyway, I have gone on long enough this a.m. - have to get ready for the not so enjoyable trip to work
  • mfjmfj Posts: 2
    I posted a similar finding back in June 2010, two months after I purchased my 2011 Camry 4 cyl automatic xle. Findings included: 1) jerky shifting between gears at around 2,000 rpm and while the vehicle speed is less than 45 mph , 2) an odd "downshift - then - upshift" while the vehicle is on a level road and is coasting down in speed and through the range from 25 mph to 15 mph, 3) a sensation that the car is stalling when it comes to a quick and controlled stop, 4) While these findings are present at all times, they are most noticeable when the car is at or under 45 degrees Fahrenheit (as read by the dashboard ambient thermometer display).

    Recently, I was at the dealership for the 10,000 mile service, and while I was waiting I test drove another 2011 Camry 4cyl automatic xle, that had 25 miles on the odometer. I found that the car I test drove did not demonstrate the same findings I noted in #1 & #2 in the above paragraph.

    The posts that I have been reading the past several months seem to indicate the the issues (#1 & #2) start occurring after the owner has driven the Camry for some number of miles.

    A transmission system, at least from a "10,000 foot" perspective, includes mechanical parts, computer interface, and fluids. What if the problem is due to something very simple - like maybe the transmission fluid has been compromised in some way.

    Here is my question. If the transmission fluid is flushed and replaced with new transmission fluid (Toyota brand fluid - of course), would this improve or correct the problems we have been noticing?

    I look forward to reading responses to this question.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Posts: 134
    edited March 2011
    Very unlikely that there is anything wrong with transmission fluid in your car. I bet this is transmission software issue. When current gen 4 cyl Camry came out (2007?) there were all kinds of complaints on it's 5 speed transmission performance, you can try reading older posts. It took Toyota almost a year to improve transmission software to the point that complaints stopped. Cars produced earlier needed to be taken back to the dealer to get new software flashed in. I'm sure most Camry buyers are not noticing any problems, there are very few who are, otherwise their sales numbers wouldn't be as good as they are now. Toyota most likely already working on improved software for 6 speed transmissions but they doesn't think this is a high priority. If you guys keep calling their customer service with complaints then you might see new software sooner.
  • Everything you said in your post is true. But i must say, i live in FL and for the past few weeks, we have been having 70degrees weather, and my car is still doing this. No matter when i get in my car, whether it is cool outside or warm, my car idles up really high when starting. I have to press my pedal to make it idle down.

    I test drove a Camry the other day, same style of car, and the car drove good. No jerking or anything. I think you are right, when you drive your car for a number of miles, the problem comes out.

    I called the Toyota Customer Experience number and was advised to test drive another one. They will be calling me back on Monday to see what I found. But from the way that guy was talking, he said if they speak to the mechanic at the dealership and they say they couldn't duplicate the problem, there is nothing they can do about it. Sound very script to me because the mechanic at the dealership said those exact words "can't duplicate the problem" to me. Something is strange going on...The rep also told me i can take it to a 3rd party arbitration...has anyone done that yet?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Every new car leaving the factory has the various controlling ECU's loaded with a full set of DEFAULT, closest approximations, parameters. As the car is driven for the initial, say, 200 miles, these parameters are adjusted on the fly in order to get the parameter set to the most optimal setting.

    The longer you drive the car the more resolution thse parameters will have regarding things like DRIVEABILITY, FE, EMISSIONS, etc. Beyond 200 miles these parameters will still be modified but now more in accordance with part wear rate, sensor drifting, etc.

    Many of these parameters can be reset to the factory default by disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes.

    So, many of these modern day cars will behave differently, sometimes in really odd ways, in an initial test drive vs down the road road about 200 miles.

    But I'm pretty sure the following "symptoms" will now be with us for a VERY long time as they have to do with rather serious FE gains.

    A) Shiftiness, continuous up and down shifting of these new 6(10) speed automatic transmissions in cruise mode due to the vargaries, however slight, of the roadbed and terrain.

    B) 1-2 second re-acceleration downshift delay, DBW system ENFORCES a delay in rising engine torque until a downshift can be completed that QUICKLY follows an upshift sequence.

    C) Repetitive downshifting as roadspeed declines during a coastdown period to accomodate the new coastdown fuel cut technique. As you coast down from say 50 MPH the transaxle will downshift again and again to keep the engine above stall speed with NO FUEL. As you reach a slow enough speed that this can no longer be accomplished fuel flow will be restored and the tranaxle will now upshift. Making matters a bit worse, the final "coastdown" shift, into FIRST, will now not occur until the car comes to a FULL stop.

    Weird set of "seat-of-the-pants" feelings, jerkiness, there.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The operational temperature of your catalytic converter is in the range of 800F. The design is such that the QUICKER the converter rises to that level the quicker the emissions are lower to the EPA standard.

    The design "thought" might be: On initial engine startup there may be no intention to drive away immediately, remote start for instance. So the engine is left at "high" idle, UNTIL there is an indication that the car is about to be driven, put in motion.

    You may also notice that the car will not shift into/use OD for the first mile or so. That's for the very same reason, keep the engine RPM "high" until the converter comes up to operational temperature.
  • 4lisak44lisak4 Posts: 4
    I have the same problem, but dealership doesn't hear it. Mine seems to be getting more frequent. Is yours?
  • jr125jr125 Posts: 1
    I was experimenting the same issue, after I got a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. First they reset everything and told me that the computer was on the learning proccess (2011 Camry with 23000 MILES) and the car did not have anything. That happened on a monday on friday the same week I was getting the same CHECK ENGINE warning. I took back to the dealer and the had to replace the entire transmition system. (CODE P2770). It's really scary when I read all this complaining. I hope that this help...
  • I am having issues with a noise in the front end, between the tires every time I start the car and take off. Its a clunking noise and bugs the hell out of me. I am in the car business and leased it from a dealership where a friend works. I mentioned the problem to my friend and he said bring it in. I have had it 4 months and have 4000 miles on it. I finally had some time at 7:30 am to drop it off for inspection. Had to get shuttled to work. Anyways the mechanic says...if I don't hear the noise....then, I have a problem. What? He says its the ABS sytem filling with fluid and this will occur everytime I start the car and drive. How obnoxious. I feel this is a system flaw and there should be a recall. I have owned other cars with ABS and have never had this issue. Whats the recourse. I am taking th e car to a Toyota Certified mechanic outside the selling dealership. These prices are sooooo steep on these Toyotas....there should NOT BE ANY UNUSUAL noises that you have to put up with...every single day! Ridiculous!!! Any similair issues out there?
  • I have the same issue on my 2011 Camry SE......A clunking noise every time I start the car and take off.......Its obnoxous and I do not pay big money every month to have to listen to that damn noise. Seriously!!!!! My car has 4000 miles on it and has made the noise since I took it home....did not notice on the test drive....possibly because the salesperson was talking so much. Hard to find time to take back to dealership...but did this week at 7:30 am before work and received shuttle to work. The findings? Mechanic says ABS system filling with fluid at each start causes the noise. If I don't hear the noise....then I should worry. I am very unhappy with this car and the answer received from the dealership. Give me the complaint # to call...please!!! Thx sunshine43....I knew I wasn't crazy!
  • I agree...very unhappy with the 2011 Camry SE I have on a 3 year lease. The best thing about the car is the bluetooth and the 3 free months of XM radio. The clunking ABS noise is ridiculous. Class action suit???? Let me know!
  • The SE seems to have problems too. Supposedly the clunking noise is common and comes from the ABS system filling on each start and take off in the car. Seriously sick of hearing the noise. Mechanic says if I DONT hear it I should worry then....Give me a break!
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