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Comments
I actually do not know what applications the radiators were from. They were examples of good radiators gone bad...why you need to change antifreeze on some frequent basis. They were also examples of repairs that could be made and what the inside of a radiator looked like if you never changed the fluid.
The issue was that this was the typical design used by manufacturers, just a tube passing through the radiator.
As I posted earlier, I changed the fluid at 45k for the first time. It was needed based on the difference in color between the old fluid and the new fluid.
-mike
I don't feel like going to the Purolator web site and looking, but I did want to throw the question out there. That doesn't excuse the fact that the add-on oil cooler leaked, but it might explain things a little bit more.
I don't mind spending the 20-30 bucks for a brake inspection now, but I'm trying to determine if it's necessary now or it can wait until later.
-mike
The recommended oil filter is PL14459(L14459). The larger filter PL24458 can also be used. Both of these filters have the same seal diameter which is too small for the oil cooler adapter, but works great for the standard oil filter mount. When I was at the auto parts store investigating a filter that would work correctly with the oil cooler, I compared the filters by Fram, Purolator, and AC Delco. All of them had similar seal sizes. The difference in the stock seal diameter and the seal diameter that I am using is about 12 mm.
Hope this helps.
I assume this is not a common problem but if you want to be on the safe side you will check your cap and hose every so often.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
-mike
-mike
Well, I've noticed something about 3 times this week. From a stop, when I give moderate throttle, sometimes it feels as if the Trooper is spinning its wheels. Sometimes this happens when the rear wheels are on a painted stop line. That's the sort of feeling I am getting. It's like the truck is jumping ahead a little bit. That's not much of an explanation, but it's all I can come up with.
Any ideas on what this might be? What else should I do, besides removing the fill plug and checking for the proper fluid level?
-mike
It's almost like the engine is getting ahead of the transmission or something.
I thought the fluid level check was with the engine running, but I didn't remember anything about the "trans in Drive" requirement. That's not how I checked it last time; maybe that meant my reading was off?
-mike
At almost 63k miles, our 98 Trooper will be staring at the 75k timing belt change interval within the next 9 months or so, which is why I'm trying to refresh my memory on the topic.
-mike
Apparently it does boil down to such a simple rule, atleast for the Isuzu V-6...3.2 and 3.5
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=981&location_id=540
If the above wrapped, copy and paste both lines intor your location window on your browser.
This is the same problem the last time we had this discussion-- the Gates site did not seem to provide the correct information about which of the 3.2L and 3.5L Isuzu engines are interference and which are not.
Chances are that the belt will look brand new when it's removed, but you never know.
BTW, breaking early could actually be a blessing in disguise, I would probably have all the valves re-seated, and or have them do a complete valve job at the same time.
-mike
As to being interference, I personally called Isuzu. I told them about the confusion and asked them to please check to be sure about the design. After being on hold for a couple of minutes I was told the 3.5 IS interference. An ITOG poster around the same time called and got put through to an engineer who swore it is NOT interference.
FWIW my plan is to change the belt as noted in the manual. I don't want to be stranded by a broken belt let alone take the chance that it is interference and will do serious damage if it goes.
I agree that sever damage most likely will occur when the belt breaks. Other than the inconvenience, you might make out in the end.
To each his own I guess.
-mike
PS: 100K or more is not uncommon for rotors. I'm still on original stuff at 37K miles with lots of hard braking and towing.
My personal opinion is that you are taking it to the wrong dealer, I'd strongly urge you to try a different dealer in the area, for you to be on your 3rd set of rotors is VERY VERY wrong and possibly a mis-diagnosis by your dealer.
-mike
Our 98 Trooper has 63,000 miles and not only are we on the original rotors, but we're still on the original pads!
My 1984 Trooper lived in salt. The disc brake calipers move on pins/rods. When those pins/rods get rusty they stick. So you apply the brakes, the brakes stay partially applied until the pads wear off a little more. This very very quickly eats pads. Rotors would also go pretty quick. My 1984 rotors were in need of repair but I did my own brake work to correct the sticking pins/rods and made due with groovy rotors eating pads real quick. Frequent pads done at home was less expensive than a new set of rotors and calipers for a old rusty 1984 Trooper near 200K miles.
The rusty sticky pins/rods fits right in with a flood car type symptoms. Your mechanic that works on the brakes should notice right away when taking the brake pads off (since you have to move the calipers back on the pins/rods) whether they are sticking and tell you what to do about it. This could be a very expensive repair, make sure to get the warrantee or the seller of the flood car to pay for the work and parts.
Anybody else tried this? Any suggestions? What's a fair price to pay a shop to flush and refill the P/S fluid? My 98 Trooper calls for Type 3 ATF fluid; is there any good reason why I should or should not use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF? I have several quarts of it in the garage and I'd like to use some of it.
Here's a brief status on the truck's current maintenance/wear items:
* Brakes are 100% original. No issues (squeaking, reduced performance, etc.) at all.
* Front and rear differential fluid and TOD system fluid were replaced around 50k miles.
* Power steering fluid - never changed.
* Automatic transmission fluid - I removed the drain plug about 10,000 miles ago, drained about 2 quarts, and added 2 qts new (Mobil 1 synthetic ATF). This probably wasn't much help, since the capacity is 9+ quarts.
* Coolant has been changed once (at dealer), but it was probably about 20-30k miles ago.
* Oil change is current.
* Tire rotation is current. (Bought new P245/70/16 Michelin LTX M/S at 53,000 miles and rotated 'em around 61k).
* Air filter probably needs to be changed in another 5,000 miles or so.
* Fuel filter has never been changed.
Here are the items I'm thinking might be wise at this point:
* Fuel filter - replacement
* Power steering fluid - flush and refill
* Auto trans fluid - flush and refill
* Coolant - flush and refill
* Timing belt - I'll probably wait until pretty close to 75,000 miles.
* Other items that would be wise to do at same time as timing belt either as good maintenance or to save on labor costs (e.g. water pump - is this necessary?)
* Spark plugs - replace? I can't remember if the interval in the owners manual is 75,000 miles. Seems like 60-70k miles on a set of plugs is about all you can expect.
Also, what other things should I be examining on the truck to make sure all is well? I'm talking about underbody stuff, engine compartment, etc. I'm not knowledgeable, so I don't really know what to look at and what it should look like.
The whole reservoir thing is pretty weird-looking; different from the standard setup that I've seen on other vehicles. It's more of a cylinder, and longer, and not so much a big squarish container. The top unscrews and is the size of the entire cylindrical reservoir, as opposed to the standard setup I've seen where the reservoir is 6-8" square with a 1-2" black screw top.
armtdm, does this sound similar to the P/S reservoir on the Rodeo you maintain?