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Comments
-mike
FWIW, I have read that NAPA stores have such a tool but you usually have to order it. Some people buy the Ford hub removal socket and grind off 2 of its 4 teeth. This socket is readily available at most auto parts stores. Others simply use a hammer and chisel. They place the chisel point into one of the hub nut holes at an angle and knock it loose. Harbor Tools has a spanner wrench that looks like it should also work. I made mine using some pipe and big nails.
What concerns me now is how did it go from working (or at least not making all sorts of driving impact) to not working and causing all sorts of side issues? For the week I am driving it can the back pressure cause damage? I am putting it in neutral when stopped, which stops the low rumbling/vibration, that seems to be when there is the most issues with the system.
This dealer has done me right so far. They have fixed all the issues reasonanbly well, not great, but done a decent job. I think they are right about the exhaust...which makes sense, there shouldn't be any reason I would have a problem with the transmission at 30K. I had an issue like listed above with gear engagement, it turned out there was a cable blocking the shifter movement past "D".
I personally think you will be disappointed if you pay the big bucks for the official tool. This is just my guess so use it FWIW. I say this because once you remove the 3 screws holding on the hub nut, it is really not spun on that tight. Thus, you don't need a lot of force to spin it loose. One of the other methods noted above should be much cheaper and work fine.
Have the dealer check this. If it was me, and I was anywhere near the changeover time, I would change it out now just to be on the safe side/attack the cause of the problem not just the symptom.
Use to be, when cars have valve chatter it's usually heard on both sides of the engine due to poor quality gas. However, this has a similar although a bit more high pitched ping primarily on the passenger side of the engine. Any ideas??
While driving home the weather got rough and I
hit the TOD, the auto middle indicator came on,
the rear wheel symbols blinked the front wheel
symbols never came on, the auto and rear wheels
just blink and after, oh, 60 seconds the CHECK
in red, came on...I am hearing a wierd sort of like grinding sound at times when I start the truck, back up, pull forward and then it goes away. Any ideas anyone????
ac
Just looked at the warranty for 99, the actuator is not listed under the powertrain warranty (neither is the TOD transfer case, surprisingly), so you are down to the 36 month/50K miles bumper to bumper warranty, which you are probably out of by now.
On the other hand, the differential is included in the powertrain warranty, and it is possible the problem lies in the front diff.
Hate to say it, but I would take it to the dealer for this problem.
Shifting into 4wd low, backing up 100 feet and then trying to engage the system can help something that is stuck within the system. A lot of 4wd systems use a gear that tightens with forward movement (I cannot remember the name and if the trooper has it) but if something is "stuck" in the that gear assembly this can help release it.
However us crackpots are probably close to the problem, I bet your dealer can get it quickly and it seems like a powertrain issue, thus a warranty item.
My guess? It's the sensors causing a problem. Other items that can cause it? Make sure your tires are within 1/4" circumference of each other, that makes a big difference. My gut feeling says the speed sensors are the culprit. My dealer replaced mine for me when I had the Check light coming on combined with failure to engage properly.
-mike
especially, cmuniz and sdc2. I don't use it like
I should, if I engage it once a year, and usually
when the ice and snow comes then I'm doing good.
I'll post the outcome, I brought it to the dealer
and should hear something by today or tomorrow.
Gotta admit it, I do love that truck, it's also
my first four wheel drive vehicle.
thanks everyone...
arthur
All tires on the icon are lit and blinking.
It felt like it went into 4 low, lurched abit when
I engaged the tranny, it seemed tougher so to speak.
I tried it durring the snow and ice storm we had,
no skidding, so sliding.
But now that you mention it, I don't have my owners manual with me, should all tires be blinking or should they be on solid?
arthur
Since then, the fan either doesn’t work at all, or works just fine. I haven’t smelled anything burning, however when the fan isn’t working, and I adjust the fan speed, I can hear a faint clicking. The clicking goes away after I stop turning the fan speed adjuster.
Any ideas? Could it be the relay? Fan motor? Fuse? Or something else?
TIA
David
If you have intermittent fan function, then I think a connection must be loose. Obviously a blown fuse would not work intermittently.
Wait a minute, since yours is a 2000, you have the climate control, right? Hmmm, that changes things - now you have electronics involved, which could be the problem area.
Guess I'm not much help there, my 99 has the old-fashioned manual controls.
The problem was in a solenoid valve assembly, a stuck valve. They changed the entire valve assembly. I'm trying to remember in what assembly it was located in, I don't have the paper work in front of me, I think it was in the transfer case.
I appreciate all the help I received, thank you all....
happy 4 wheelin all...
ac
You will get lots of opinions on this, so here is mine: My best advice is to check the maintenance schedule at the back of the owners manual. Be aware that there are two schedules, "normal" use and "severe conditions" use.
You probably should change the differential fluids and the fuel filter at 30K. This can easily be done by you.
In addition, I recommend changing your tranny and radiator fluid. I had this done by fluid swap machines at a Jiffy Lube-type place. Drain and fill of tranny doesn't get the majority of the fluid changed.
FYI The tranny and the TOD transfer case fluids don't have a designated change interval on the normal maintenance schedule, it just says to check the level. But I would still change these out periodically. I plan to change the transfer case at around 50K, and the tranny every 30K.
Oil changes have been every 6k miles (all highway driving) and I have had the tranny fluids changed once...
thanks
Thanks,
Also I am reposting my msg. (#877 from the Isuzu Rodeo Town Hall list) here in hopes that someone may be able to help.
"# 877 spark plug/electrical problems by dstezala Dec 07, 2002 (01:03 pm)
I have a 96 Rodeo LS w/ a V6 that I bought used two years ago w/ 80,000 miles on it. It has burned 3 ignition coils on the same cylinder and this time I think the plug was "shot" out of the cylinder and stripped the threads because there was a few ounces of oil spit out from under the coil and I can't seem to get the plug out of the cylinder. I had just changed a burned coil (thinking that was all there was to the problem) and 45 mins later I was driving on the expressway and I heard the rubber boot part of the coil burning (clicking noise) in the cylinder. I looked at it right away and saw the damage. Who knows what I should do next?"
More to the story ------ I first experienced the random "clicking" noise in July 2002. It came and went for a few weeks with no noticeable pattern. The CEL was on from the moment the clicking started and remained on. I took it to a shop. The shop said it was a bad ignition coil pack. Their reciept says they "tightened plug" and "replaced coil pack." I got the vehicle back and it ran fine until about two weeks ago - the clicking returned. Not having the most confidence in the shop that replaced the coil in July/August (after all the problem returned three months later) I decided to try my own hand at diagnosing the problem. I spoke to a friend who is an accomplished mechanic of over 20 years about the symptoms (clicking noise under the hood, rough idle, CEL). He said it "sounds electrical - look at the plugs and wires." I started on the passenger's side of the vehicle, removed the coil pack and spark plug from the front cylinder and they looked fine. Replaced the plug, the old one looked good and had not burned beyond specified tolerances (.044 in). Onto the middle cyl on the passenger side. What the....?!?!?! The rubber boot part of the coil pack was gone (burned away?) and the metal core of the rubber boot part of the coil was in the spark plug tube, along with the resistor (proper terminology? - the screw-on metal cap on the side of the plug opposite the electrode). In addition, the plug was completely OUT of its hole and the spark plug tube was coated with oil that had blown out the top of the cylinder because the plug was blown out (backed out) of its hole. Also, the electrode on the plug was smashed down so there was no gap at all, the part of the plug where the socket fits on was badly marred and the start of the threads look mashed (didn't notice that last detail until a few days later). At this point, I scratched my head, swore in frustration and returned to the house to check the receipt that the shop had given me after they (supposedly) fixed the problem in August. The receipt said they replaced the coil and retightened the plug. So I had one new coil ($103) to replace the damaged (burned) one and new plugs all around. I installed the plugs (even the one in the cylinder that had been blown out and burned the boot of the coil) without any problems and the coil, too. Started it up and it ran great, smooth idle, no clicking noise, CEL went off. 45 minutes later, the clicking returns, CEL comes on. I immediately pulled over to look and saw oil coming from beneath the coil. I knew the same thing had happened. I removed the coil - sure enough the boot was burned away, but this time there was no trace of the metal core of the boot. The plug was in its hole and spins freely but it won't go in or out.
Based on what I read here about a similar problem on the Troopers (spark plugs shooting out of cylinder), I think the shop that did the work for me in August over tightened the plug (probably w/ an impact wrench - that would explain the maring on the plug) and damaged the threads of the plug and the head. After a few months under pressure - it goes pop and the coil sizzles. I believe when I replaced the plug I unknowingly put it into a hole with damaged threads. When I installed the plug, it went in straight and smooth, not crooked, there was no forcing of the threads on my behalf. I used antiseize lube on the plug and installed it with straight extensions on my socket/drive and made sure not to overtighten it. I replaced the plugs in all of the other cylinders and they are fine. Any thoughts, comments, ideas on my theory about how the damage was caused? Any suggestions on how to fix it? I called the shop that I believe caused the initial damage and the mgr. said he wants to look at it and preliminarily he implied I would not be liable for any costs provided the attempt to remove the plug that is stuck and subsequent Heli-coil of the hole went smoothly. So far, he seems cool about it. But if it gets ugly, I'm calling a lawyer. To complicate matters, the work the shop did in August was subcontracted to another shop. I believe I should not be liable for ANY costs and that the primary shop and subcontractor need to come to terms on who is going to pay to make it right for me, since I believe that one of them caused the damage in the first place.
The shop should have found this and installed the helicoil insert (or at least tried a thread chaser, although once the plug shot out that was probably no longer a viable option) when they changed the coil the first time. Instead they just tried to tighten the plug in its already stripped hole. Consequently, you continue to spit out the plug/fry coil packs.
The fact that you also changed this plug will complicate any legal case. The shop could say you caused the problem. Also, your statement that you didn't notice any thread problem when you changed the plug could also hurt your case. The shop could use it as "evidence" that it is a hard to diagnose problem. The points being, watch what information you volunteer to them and that you may not have the slam dunk winner legal case you think.
Bottom line, the bad threads were there when you intially took it in. Presumably you told them to fix the problem (stripped threads) not just the symptom (fried coils/flying plugs). They owe you for the last 2 coils that wouldn't have failed if they had originally installed a helicoil insert. You still owe them for that helicoil. Rather than get into all of this with them, my advice is to simply take them up on their offer to remove the plug and get a helicoil at their expense. At least that is my take.
OK, I got through the timing belt replacement routine with some help from you guys, and as soon as I get done replacing the #$*& starter I need to tackle the oil leaks from the valve cover gaskets and a new coolant drip from somewhere near the back of the engine, and the only coolant back there seems to be the heater hoses that disappear behind the engine (assuming it's not a head gasket).
Can anyone tell me how difficult these jobs are? It almost looks like doing either one requires removing the intake plenum/manifold. I suppose if the intake needs to be removed I should replace all 6(?) of the little coolant hoses under there. Doesn't look like fun. But at least the temperature in the garage is above freezing for a few days.
TIA
KCinMN
But back to the valve cover gaskets - will the valve covers come off without removing some of the intake? I'm hoping somebody with a real (Helms) manual can help here.
KCinMN
Checking Spark Plugs
Last night I tried to do this on my 98 Trooper (3.5L V6) but was unsuccessful. I removed the 2 screws from one of the coil packs. Tried to remove the wires from the coil pack, but could not figure out how. I didn't want to pull too hard and break something.
Any suggestions?
I'm trying to get a look at the plugs to see if they are still gapped properly, tons of oil in there, etc. At just over 75k miles, it's time to replace them anyway, but I wanted to see if they look okay or if they show signs of problems related to the engine's high oil consumption.
PCV valve
I'm trying to figure out if the PCV valve on my 98 Troop is okay, or if it might be faulty and would help explain the increasing oil consumption.
I have no idea where the PCV valve is. Can anyone help? I found and removed one thing that looked like it might be the PCV valve. I'm totally clueless under the hood.
This thing was attached to an appx 1/2" diameter hose on one end and to the engine block (?) near the front-most coil pack/spark plug on driver's (left) side. The thing was L-shaped; top half was red/burgundy and bottom half black. Said "AISIN" on 1 side and "897118" and "8600" on other side.
I've seen one other PCV valve - on a 95 Ford Contour. The rattling on that one (indicating the needle thing inside is there, which is good) was very noticeable. On the thing I pulled from my Trooper, there was a barely audible rattling but I wasn't convinced that all was well inside there. Shaking this thing in the other direction, there was no rattling; instead, a sound like a liquid (oil?) sloshing around in there. The end of the thing that was plugged in to the hose had just a wee bit of oil on it; not sure if that's normal, problematic, etc.
I'm guessing that this was indeed the PCV valve on my Trooper and it appears to be not right. I will probably call St. Charles Isuzu in the morning and order a new one. That way I will know for sure what it looks like!
She dropped it at an Isuzu dealer near her office 2 minutes ago. The advisor on the phone told me it's probably the intake manifold gasket. But I know it hasn't been running really rough, missing, or stalling in the past few weeks. Our truck had those symptoms around 50k miles ago, and we had the intake manifold gasket replaced (at a different Isuzu dealer) under warranty.
Any other ideas on what it might be? I drove the truck 40 miles yesterday and all seemed fine. Last night I installed a new PCV valve - hard to screw that up. I also tried to pull one of the spark plugs but couldn't get the coil pack to come out of the hole. I reconnected the coil pack wires and screwed the coil pack down w/the 2 screws. Is there anything else I needed to do - e.g. make sure the internals reaching down toward the plug were seating properly or something?
In the pretty near future, I'm planning to have all these items done on our 98 Trooper w/75k miles, roughly in order of importance to me:
* replace timing belt
* other items to replace at same time as timing belt, to save on labor costs: water pump, idler pulley, thermostat, radiator hoses, radiator flush/fill
* replace serpentine belt
* replace spark plugs
* repack front wheel bearings
* brake fluid flush
* replace brake pads (brakes still working fine now)
* replace shocks
* lube body/chassis/rear propeller shaft/clutch pedal spring/bushing/clevis pin/key lock cylinder (I change own engine oil on truck but don't lubricate chassis each time)
* 4-wheel alignment (truck drives pretty straight but thought this isn't a bad idea anyway?)
I know this is quite a bit of stuff, and there are some fairly pricey items in here. It won't be cheap to do it all, but I don't want to pay twice as much as I need to.
Other than the timing belt and serpentine belt, are there any other belts in the engine that require replacement? Last night I noticed lots of small cracks in the belt that goes in many directions, the one that sits right behind the radiator fan near the front of the engine bay. Is this the serpentine belt, fan belt, or something else?
Based on the manual I don't see that a Trooper, at least my 99, needs or even can be aligned at all 4 wheels. A good front alignment (trim height, camber, caster and toein) is probably $75 or more.
Smart move in packaging the timing belt, water pump ect. You should do the same for the brakes, wheel bearings, and brake fluid flush. Having not had these done by a shop my lousy guess is that you are looking at maybe $600 for the former and about 1/2 that for the later if you don't need rotors. Count on at least 1/3rd more if you have the dealer do the work.
As to your coil removal, like other people noted you just have to pull a little. They kind of suction themselves in place over time. The next issue is that when you put them back on you don't get a secure pop sound. Thus, you may think they are not on properly when indeed they may be.
As to your PCV valve, it should freely rattle and any gunk that interferes with that is too much. A little oil is normal as some will condense as the engine cools down. Make sure you change it more frequently in the future.
Lastly, maybe it is just me but I assume everybody reads the major Edmunds boards. Thus, redundant posting is not really necessary and like I noted before non-categorized posting makes searching for old posts much more difficult. Just my take.
Does that sound reasonable? I've heard suggestions that a malfunctioning EGR valve might contribute to higher oil consumption, but I don't recall how.
I'm going to call the dealer back and find out more about this quick flush. I'm not so hot on having all the crap on the bottom of the oil pan get swirled around by some sort of power flush, if that's the type of procedure the advisor is talking about.