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2011 Volkswagen Jetta



  • I did not mention in my last post that the " get real" comment indicates anger issues or a personality prob that is embarrassing but to move on to the topic, dealers need to get these on the road and make a new customer. I am already a good deal below MSRP without a struggle. "Get real" and go have a talk with your dealer and they will budge.
  • I cannot comment on the 2011, but I have a 2009 Jetta SE, a 2007 Jetta SE, and a 2008 New Beetle Convertible, all with automatic transmission and the 2.5 5 cylinder engine. All three have been great, with no engine or transmission issues. The 2.5 is peppy, but still gets good gas mileage. I am also a salesman and drive quite a bit on the freeways. The VW's all have exceptional seats and ride. I can drive 3-4 hours easily without having to stop and stretch my back and legs. I had two Toyota Camrys which while reliable were about the worst highway cars you could imagine.

    The Jetta's 6 speed Tiptronic automatic is smooth, and does not jerk around when downshifting, such as on a long hill on the freeway.

    Buy the Jetta - you won't be disappointed.

    Bel Air Car Guy.
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    edited October 2010
    I sat in the SE today. I agree, it reminds me of the sharky Mitsubishi Galant, a little of the 2000 Honda Accord headlight up front and the Audi A4 in the back.

    The interior with its hard plastic did remind me of my old 1994 BMW 325is. Nothing bad and I just take it as German design.

    I actually like this design and this would be my first VW if I buy but reading about the maintenance cost is a little discouraging. Is it really that high? :cry:

    My current car is a '07 Honda Fit that just hums along $29 oil change after oil change and its now over 114k miles. Is the VW ownership experience drastically different?
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Bel Air Car Guy,
    How many miles on the Jetta(s) do you have?

    BTW-I really don't see the "big deal" with the hard plastics. As long as it is not what you rest your arm on, who cares?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    edited October 2010
    You do get three years of free maintenance on VWs.

    Surely in 115K mi, you have done more than oil changes? Edmunds estimates $378 for the 60K mi maintenance on a Honda Fit;

    On our 2005.5, if you follow the VW schedule it does not seem all that different from my 2007 Mazda. The significant additional items that come to mind are brake fluid changes are specified by VW and not Mazda and VW specifies spark plug change at 4 years 40,000 miles...but after warranty, I'd do these things (or not) on the same schedule for any car, no matter what the maintenance schedule says.

    The biggest difference seems to be that VW has long lists of items to inspect and check. I don't know if these things are critical, I had them done at 20K mi and 40K mi, in case they might identify possible warranty problems. But I finagled my way into getting them done free or nearly free, rather than as part of the dealer's over-priced packages. On a new one, the 20K should be free and at 40K all you would have is a power train warranty.

    Now that we are out of warranty, I also don't plan to pay for dealer maintenance packages and will instead order maintenance "ala-cart". I'll actually probably go to an independent mechanic, who I trust to point out any problems that he sees when the car is in for routine maintenance.

    If I was one who went to the dealer and said "do the X mile maintenance", I think the main difference would be that the 20K mi VW package would cost about what the 30K mi Mazda package does and the 40K VW would be like the 60K Mazda. So if you do things that way, VW would definitely cost more...after the first 3 years.

    VW does require synthetic oil, so changes are more expensive, but required less frequently.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Thinking about the cost of potential ownership as well before I buy a Jetta. My '07 Honda Accord has had two brake jobs, both front and rear, several transmission "drain and fills". And of course oil changes done at the local "Speedy Lube". The brake jobs and transmission services I have performed myself. "Over the counter" parts are plentiful for this car.

    The car has 85K on it. It appears that is a little hard on brakes.
  • My 2007 Jetta Se has 52,000 miles. The 2009 Jetta SE has 29,500 miles. Interestingly enough, the 2007 drives just as good as the 2009. Steering and suspension are still tight, no body rattles etc. Usually a car will loosen up over time, and the suspension becomes mushy, steering sloppy etc. Not so with the Jetta.

    I also agree with the hard plastic not being a problem, unless it is an area you rest your arm or touch constantly. All cars use some hard plastic. Go look at a Toyota if you want to see cheap hard plastic!

    Good luck with the Jetta.

    Bel Air Car Guy.
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    edited October 2010
    Surely in 115K mi, you have done more than oil changes? Edmunds estimates $378 for the 60K mi maintenance on a Honda Fit;

    Thanks for the info! I'll definitely keep that in mind on my next purchase. I actually do ala cart as well as the packaged service items are definitely just profit makers for the dealer. Regarding my Fit, all oil changes until the 100k mile tuneup schedule for the major maintenance items (radiator fluid at 101k, preventively changed the orig front brakes at 104k, battery at 107k and the orig spark plugs at 113k). Our dealer actually is nice enough to tell me what I don't need like my belt which I was worried about but the service tech said its not even near an issue. Maybe sometimes driving a lot is better for the car? :P I do want to avoid the surge of maintenance costs after warranty so I'd like to trade the car in and the new Jetta is what caught my eye. :blush:
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Much of those big "checkups" are inspect this, inspect that, and are totally unneeded.

    At 60K the big "dollar amount item" is that most cars call for a transmission fluid exchange. That's about $100.00 to $200.00 depending on the car. The other $200.00 to $300.00 of the checkup dollars is paying a tech to look at your exhaust system and saying -"Yep! no holes have been punched in it!".

    Total Ripoff! You can bet any place that changes your oil always keeps an eye out for things they can possibly do for you to increase the repair bill.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Posts: 1,724
    I might be pulling the trigger on a new 2011 Jetta SE lease. 15k, Sign and then drive Event.

    My dealer might be able to absorb most of the negative equity on my current 08 G6 lease. I apparently could get a decent discount on top of the $500 discount for them being a GM dealer. So I could be looking at nearly nothing to roll into the next deal. Exciting!

    I am looking at a white SE, with upgraded wheels! Very sharp. This model I want is on a black SE. But, I am not sure I want black. Though it does look very sharp.

    I could be looking at $340-390 payment. I am waiting for them to work with GM. Not bad! Considering I am trading in a G6. Even with no discount my negative equity is down to $2,000. Not bad!!

    Though, I am wondering if the Jetta SE with the convenience package has navigation??

    I have been looking at a Jetta or Camry. I would like the Jetta.

    Any advice is appreciated.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    There was a recent review on the Jetta where I read that Fizzmall is offering $2,000.00 discounts off MSRP. I have heard you can do that where I live, in Southern California as well.

    So, that $2,000.00 is not a free lunch and it's being taken from "somewhere" and not being absorbed by the dealer.

    My advice to you, is to complete the lease on the G6 before buying/leasing anything else.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Posts: 1,724
    lol. Yes. That would be my plan. However, I do NOT want to be billed for the excess mileage. I am already 500 or so miles away from being over! Lease is not up until next July. I don't want to owe anything to that company. They mentioned that they helped trade someone else out of their GM and were able to substantially discount their negative balance. I will obviously know if it is rolled into the deal based on the sale price. $2,000 compared to where I was before is pretty good. Especially on a car that does not exist anymore. I really don' want to trade right this instant, but if it means avoiding a huge problem with GM. I'll do it.

    Apparently, I am still billed for the mileage if I trade before my end date. So I do not want that to happen.

    I did see that the SE does not come with Navigation. Not a huge deal, as I used my phone for that. But, it does come with a really nice entertainment system! A bigger screen than the navi equipped model. Many nice features for a nice price! But, I will miss the remote start I have on my G6!!

    Also, I don't believe the it comes with Auto headlights either. Which in this day in age should be standard. Even, the new Corrola Rental I drove had it. Not, a big deal.
  • ike3ike3 Posts: 81
    I see it exists on the SE trim. But is it standard for the S model? Locking glove box?
    Anyone know?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Given that he thinks in terms of how much per month, absorbing negative equity, and how much is rolling (or not rolling) into the next deal, I don't think he was looking for advice on how to be financially prudent. He'd rather believe in dealer magic.

    I do know that for the Golf the alternative to the 60 month, 0% was $1500 dealer cash last month. So if they have something like that going on the Jetta, it would explain a $2000 discount from MSRP.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I'm curious why you think drum brakes on the rear is such a weak spot?
    They are cheaper to buy, maintain, have better parking brake abilities, and have no shortage of braking power on a rear axle. Discs may be a little better suited in combination with SC systems, but even that is a weak argument for them on a car meant for street use. Don't go along with the hype without really knowing the whys behind it is my advice. (i'm saying this more to others, as you already seem to have your mind made up)
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    What's so great about electric steering? I hope you aren't saying that just because u buy all the hype. There are numerous electric steering cars that have weird handling anomalies that they can fix yet. I am glad to know they have retained hydraulic. I am also glad to be able to have drum rear brakes. It is not a race car on the track. Drums on rear axles are cheaper to own and use and are much better suited for your average car owner. Rear rotors is still more hype.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Don't know about the brake issues. However, I thought electrical steering is supposed to be better because it doesn't ZAP the small amount of horse power (or drag-if you will) from the motor? Just asking.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    that's true but only to a lesser extent than they would have us believe, but think about it...the only time there is drag is in parking or slow turning maneuvers. And on the "problems with Equinox" forum they are saying that just turning the wheel will lower the engine rpm (because it is taxing the alternator) so these electric systems use a fair amt of power under those conditions. The fact is, electric costs less to manufacture (which increases their bottom line) and is lighter (which helps them get better mpg figures). On that Equinox forum you will also read about frozen and stuck electric steering issues that GM can't figure out. There are others on other forums too. Technology can be a wonderful thing, but first it has to be perfected and proven better, but also the buyer needs to read between the lines and realize that often change evolves around the almighty dollar. It 's not always in our best interest.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    edited November 2010
    I have seen no reports of problems with VW's electric power steering. We have an early 2005 Jetta 2.5 and had several other problems but there have been no issues with the steering system. If electric power steering is done right, I would think it would also be cheaper to maintain as there is no possibility of problems with fluid leaks from the pump, hoses, rack.

    Nothing wrong with hydraulic, but I thought the electric was an advantage. I thought the big issue with electric power steering has been that it is typically over-boosted and lacking in feel (see GM), but VW did not have those issues.

    In addition to mentioning a 4-8% fuel savings, this article points out the the hoses and pump are frequently the source of power steering problems (53 per cent of all power steering warranty claims are from pump and hose problems)
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I wasn't stating VW had probs, just generally, electric can be prone to them. And they are still new. Wait till corrosion issues surface.

    re those 53% stats, I suspect it from people holding the wheel tight against the lock, as you hear the pump bypass squealing and squawking. Owner error and ignorance.
    But I admit that is one benefit of electric, and can certainly be addressed easily with electric as they can just not have that area of the grid on the rack, powered. (as in, with no voltage)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Well, I have replaced one pump, two racks, and a hose on a 1997 Ford with 130,000 miles and the new pump is making noises. I do not agree with your assumption that the operators of the vehicle are to blame.

    I do think you are mistaken that electric is more prone to problems. There are many more sources of potential problem in the hydraulic systems.

    You can say that you do not care about the downgrades that VW has made or say that you think the cost savings is worth it, but why do you feel you need to attempt to sell these things as advantages? I might accept a car with rear drums, no IRS, and hydraulic power steering but that does not mean that the car better than the same car with rear discs, IRS, and a good electric power steering system.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    since i do all (and pay of course) my own mechanical work and have had numerous cars with and without rear rotors, I prefer drums from a cost stand point. I think that is what i said in the beginning. If i indicated inferiority with rotors, it was due to cars that sit often a week or more at a time and then u have just one more set of rotors that score long before they are actually worn out in thickness. Never had that problem with drums. Drums do tend to be a bit more grabby in humid wx, but I also addressed that when I said that rotors are better suited in use with ESC.

    I have only had one hydraulic issue in every car I have ever had. It was a rusted line on my old Pathfinder. I think it happened around the 220000 mile mark. Our roads are heavily salted here in winter. Still it didn't leave me stranded. I removed the belt going to it (the joys of pre-serpentine) and drove 2 hours home. It is when people drive with a leak and do nothing about it, is when they take the pump out, and it can happen fast. So again is why i said operator error or ignorance (just don't know any better)
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    Do a brake job on a disc or drum, what one is easier? All the downgrades on the Jetta VI are sad.

    I know Jetta has been VW's sales leader, and someone who paid alot of money for that piece of paper that says they are smart may just get the last laugh if they sell a ton of Jetta VI's.

    I brought my Jetta V in for service and noticed some '10 TDI's on the lot, talked to my salesman who has a TDI Jetta V.....his opinion is that you want a '10 if you can get one!
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    They don't even offer the Jetta with TDI in Cda this year. I noticed other cars coming with straight axles in the rear also. I bet it has to do with keeping the price down, while offering more and more electronic goodies like Bluetooth, USB etc etc and all the extra airbags that cars have now.

    Remember years ago, Honda dumped the dbl wishbone suspension on the front of their Civics? That was cost cutting in a blatant way.
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    So how about my question, what brake job is easier.....disc or drum?? And I do know the answer......DISC!
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    well if you knew, why did you ask?

    You obviously haven't re and re'd ones that house wheel bearings, or special parking brake interior drums that are hard to get to and next to impossible to service if they have been neglected. On many vehicles a set of drums and shoes will outlast 3 or even 4 pair of rotors. Corrosion from sitting between uses, degrades a disc fast. Drums are way more immune to this.
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    Because you called me on it, I responded, and you tried to ignore the question.

    Disc brakes have many advantages, but if you love drum brakes, put em on front and rear! Oh wait, they stopped making cars like that DECADES ago!
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    You suffer from selective reading.

    I didn't ignore it, I already covered that in previous posts. Why should I repeat myself just for you?

    I thought you were trying to have a rational conversation about drums on a REAR AXLE vs discs regarding servicing and COSTS involved.

    Nevermind, I now realize I'm conversing with someone much than myself, and you're not really interested in a normal exchange of info here.
  • Hi,

    I have 2001 Jetta VR6. And I just found that I had coolant leaking problem.

    When I checked it, I located the parts which is like the part shown in the link below:

    Is it the water pump? Is it the only water pump in this model. Somebody said there possible one model has two different water pumps.
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