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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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    nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    All of the features you mention must be activated by the dealer. The DRL will come on with the light switch in "OFF"; if they don't, then the dealer goofed. You program the seat memory yourself (instructions in the owners manual), but the dealer must activate the feature that lets the remote control move the seats to the memory positions.

    Regarding my previous post about the service engine light...my dealer verified that a loose gas cap caused the light to come on. He did confirm that about two dozen run cycles are required to extinguish it. He turned it off with the scan tool.
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    jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    The sunroof botton is confusing, one botton; one side outlined arrow, and the other side solid arrow. they really don't relate to anything. What happend to simple two bottons; slide and tilt?

    the other one is back lid window switches. why are they always lit? When the dash light are not one. the window back light is on. they get hot, the light burns, and it cost $50 to replace them! Dumn design..
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    mschukarmschukar Member Posts: 351
    I like the one sunroof button. To tell you the truth, I haven't looked at the graphics on the button. If I had, a couple presses of the button would have cured me of ever looking at it again.

    The function is very logical: slide back to open, push to tilt, forward to close. What's confusing about that?

    My 626, on the other hand, had two buttons which I found confusing. It was very easy to hit the wrong button without looking at the graphics. Give me one button any day!

    I'm not sure I understand your other grip. What is a "back lid window" and where is the switch to control it?

    -murray
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    jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Sorry I was not clear.

    Power window switches are lit all the time. The light inside the swtich get hot, overworked, and burn out.

    The light inside should only be one when the IP light is on.
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    mschukarmschukar Member Posts: 351
    2 things:

    Have you ever seen a window switch burn out? It's probably an LED which should last for many, many years of driving.

    2. So what if it burns out? It's likely to last for well over 100,000 miles. At that point, it probably won't be the biggest flaw in your car.

    -murray
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    catch22catch22 Member Posts: 5
    It happened to me couple of times. I never bothered to go to dealership. That thing will reset itself after about a week or ten days, under normal daily commute driving style.
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    jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I want to mention this then drop it. The LED according to your comments that is supposed to be good for many many many years...is burnt out.

    Two out of six switches do not have lights. All I was trying to say is that it does not make sense to have them lit during day time driving.
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    stuartr1stuartr1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 330ci convertible. when i accelerate i sometimes get a grinding noise--the dealer says it's from a flap in the tailpipe and is normal. anyone else experience this.
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    buyacargetachebuyacargetache Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 model with the 5-speed. Luckily, I haven't had the "grinding" problem or the "clunk" problem. Despite a few problems, I love my car. All the basic things that make a BMW a BMW work perfectly. But here are the problems I've had:

    > battery replaced at 6K miles, no idea why it went out
    > front brake liners and rotors replaced at 8K miles under warranty, dealer did not give satisfactory reason why warping occured. I don't ride my brakes or brake hard as a rule so this will probably be an on going problem
    > rattle in the driver side window at 9K mi. my guess is body flex..probably will require periodic treatments of silicone or weatherstripping replacement
    > Harman Kardon rattles. The bass capabilities overpower the interior. Have to keep the bass kept below the 50% mark to eliminate buzzing.
    > unidentified spring and plastic part beneath the passenger seat popped and broke off when moving the seat back at 11K miles
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    diesteldiestel Member Posts: 4
    Hello, everyone -- I've read this entire thread and found it very interesting and informative, and hope to capitalize on the experiences you bring to bear.

    I've wanted a BMW for more than 10 years now, but have consistently deferred the purchase. Until recently I lived in a metropolitan area with 2 BMW dealers, one about five minutes away. Now I'm ready to make the purchase, but recently relocated to a rural area, and the nearest dealer is about 100 miles away.

    I'm concerned about access to warranty service, and the extent to which the 2002 or 2003 330Ci I'd buy will require it. Getting the car to the dealer with any kind of frequency, like a lot more than scheduled maintenance, would be very difficult due to time constraints. I'd love to know whether any of you have thoughts on this -- would you buy it, or would the possibility of needing regular dealer service, and the associated distance and time and inconvenience, make you hesitate? I'm maybe spoiled by the reliability of the 2 Accords I've driven over the past decade, but the snooze factor of those cars is taking its toll, and I can't seem to get excited about anything that doesn't have a blue and white propeller.

    Any reactions greatly appreciated.
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    rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    Personally, I believe easier access to service (either through dealers or competent independent mechanics) is crucial for the enjoyment of owning any car. We have owned 4 BMWs and they all have had service needs at times, with some small (headlight adjustment)and some big (transmission problem). However I think this holds true for most cars, if not all. We had two Honda Accords before and problems encountered ranged from moonroof getting stuck in an open position, air conditioning leaking freon, and the need for starter replacement at the end of two years. We live in a city with plenty of dealers and independent mechanics around, so the issue wasn't a huge one.
    If I have to drive 100 miles to get services which will be inevitable, I don't think I'll really enjoy the car any more. With that said, the new BMWs only require annual oil services. Both the coolant and spark plugs call for replacement after 100,000 miles, not to mention the transmission fluid which requires NO change ever!
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    diesteldiestel Member Posts: 4
    rhmass ... thanks for your thoughts. I suspect that you are probably right on the enjoyment factor. It would be one thing thing if the only issue were scheduled maintenance -- I could plan ahead a little and work around it. It's the unscheduled stuff that would be difficult to manage and, as you put it, that stuff would be inevitable.

    Hoo boy -- back to the drawing board.
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    waydewayde Member Posts: 198
    Have not owned a BMW - wondering about mainenance, what to look for in the particular year/make. I know this was the first year of production for the coupe - anything to be aware of?
    It's white with red leather - sport package, sunroof, heated seats, premium and only 16,xxx miles.
    Does the factory maint (3/36) transfer?
    How about the 4/50?
    It looks like it recently had an oil change at 16, 300 miles. What else should be done at this time?
    The price is 28.9K - according to edmunds, about 400 higher than tmv.
    ANY thoughts/comments you guys have would be great.
    BTW - I drove a G35, an IS300 -both new, and then the 2000 323Ci - this was the only car to make me say "wow". (Yes, the G and IS are very nice, but the BMW was just " ").
    Thanks!
    Wayde
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    edgewareedgeware Member Posts: 6
    I have a Y2K 323Ci with 16.5K. My sunroof was temper mental until the motor was replaced under warranty. Also I had a thermostat recall and a crankcase breather hose recall both replaced under warranty. The scheduled maintenance and factory warranty should transfer.

    When the work was done on my auto, it was entered into the computer system at the service dept. so for this car they have all their scheduled maintenance and recall work in the data base. If the you could get a printout of the service work done on that car it may give you peace of mind that the car has been properly maintained. As far as price goes, Edmunds TMV I would use as a general guideline, something to try not to stray too far from. I think if you look at EBAY and other sites and see what folks are asking for similar models, you'll find that 29K is not a bad price for a Ci with only 16K miles and excellent appearance.

    Hey and congrats on your choice whatever it may be!
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    dan__2dan__2 Member Posts: 13
    I have the base sound system in my 2002 325. I can't remember what the HK system sounded like anymore, but i can tell you that the base system sounds aweful, and i've only had it for 3 whole days. AM radio is crap and the overall acoustics when playing music sound like they are coming from a $15,000 car. i'm very disappointed! i might just tear it out and upgrade it on my own. Anyone have success replacing the base system with a new setup that had huge improvements?
    thanks
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    kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    If I remember correctly, the lower end BMWs are not known for their base stereo system's audio quality. Recommend upgrading through the aftermarket. Make sure that whatever upgrades you do are not in violation of your car's warrenty.

    Though I am not familiar with what type of work an upgrade would entail, I am sure that any car audio dealership would be willing to fill you in on what would need to be done. In most car companies, you can buy adapters and plugs to make a stereo fit your car. parts and installation for a basic stereo should be under $100. Also, most likely, you can purchase an aftermarket system that will blow away the upgrade. It all depends on which system sounds the best to you and how much you are willing to spend.

    Both times I have upgaded my car stereo (though the cars were not BMW) there was a huge improvement in audio quality.
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    rjg96rjg96 Member Posts: 65
    w/ 11k miles so far. I mostly like the car, and I don't know what else i'd get.

    Defects:
    -Steering: steering that came w/ the car was too light. I had the "retrofit" and now there's a loose dead spot in the center. It will probably never be fixed, and it drives me nuts.
    -Rattles: There are all sorts of rattles that come and go and very hard to pin down. Dealers i've been to have been no help in fixing these-- but i've fixed some of them myself w/ felt.
    -Engine sound: One of the reasons i bought this car was for the superb sound of its engine. Unfortunately, at highways speeds, mostly what I hear is an irritating kind of whining sound-- proabbly the differential. I had some insulation insalled by the dealer to help quell this, but i still here noises that i didn't hear in my previous cars.
    -Clutch: the cluth is very hard to modulate and control and it every now and then it develops this "knot" feeling right in the middle of its travel.
    -tramlining on highway. To some extent, this is normal w/ sport tires. The steering retrofit w/ its loose dead spot on the center has made this problem more annoying though.
    -Terrible dealers: I've tried out 5 different dealers in my area and they're all terrible in 1 way or another. Some examples:
    -no repair (at any of them) gets done right on the first try or is done when they say it will be done
    -Have to fight w/ them to recognize any defect. i swear you could drive in there w/
    -Bad attitudes from service advisors and technicians
    -Rip off prices for parts and service and an attempt to turn any warranty work into paid work.
    -Poor workmanship on repairs that are done.
    Design issues:
    -if headlights are on, headlights AND parking lights should go off w/ ignition. My 12 year old Volvo did this--surely BMW can figure this out too.
    -Really cheesy construction of rear parcel shelf. It bends, flexes, creaks, squeaks, rattles, etc. If you want to hear even more awful noises, press on the interior side of the rear window (i noticed this as i was cleaning it one day).
    -Rattles in B pillars. All 3 series sedans (even those built today) do this--although not all owners notice. BMW issued a TSB to fix this a while ago but it didn't solve anything. I really don't know why its so hard for them to just fix a stupid rattle.
    -Steering wheel controls don't allow you to "seek" like you can w/ the normal radio arrows. That's not entirely true, you can "seek" using the radio buttons but you have to hold them down for 5 seconds to do this--which is very annoying. The default behavior is for the button to jump to the next preset or if in "m" mode, to go to the next station on the tuner (regardless of the signal strenghth.
    -really, really loud and obnoxious fuel pump noise. Again my 12 year old Volvo never did this. When I'm stopped at a light, I can hear a really loud buzzing noise. I've heard this on other 3 series (but not all of them). Of course, its "normal".

    I would actually be happy w/ my car if it were just "solid" (felt solid on the highway and didn't rattle, squeak, whine and buzz all the time), sounded good, and the dealers treated me w/ respect and fixed problems. I didnt think this was too much to ask for, but i'm always made to feel like i'm being really "picky". That may be true, but if I wasn't picky, i wouldn't bothered to buy a BMW in the first place! I can't wait for the day when the Japanese get their act together and create:
    -a RWD car with a good (not tacky) interior, good handling, good power attractive exterior and 5 speed. Surprisingly, the Japanese haven't managed that yet- the day they do, I'll be the first to jump ship.
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    cotmccotmc Member Posts: 1,081
    I'm sorry you haven't had better luck with your car and your local dealers!

    Regarding your last request, there are some people who would say the G35 meets your Japanese RWD car requirements, when Infiniti introduces the 6-speed stick later this fall. I would be interested in reading your feedback to that possibility, as I am considering either a BMW or a G35 purchase within the next few months!

    TIA!
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    rjg96rjg96 Member Posts: 65
    Yes, the G35 does appear to be pretty close to my last request. But I sat in one at the NY auto show, and found the interior to be quite tacky and cheesy looking (with many poor quality plastics). The swaths of fake aluminum trim were shockingly bad. If they wanted to use that much "aluminum" in the interior, they should've used the real thing. AS it is now, it looks like a Panasonic boom box. For me, it was so bad as to be a deal breaker. It kind of looks like a the interior of a late 80s Japanese car. The amber lighting they use also seems cheap looking- but i can't really describe why. I really don't know why its so hard for the Japanese to do attractive interiors (or why its so hard for the Germans to make parts that don't break all of the time). Also, although the exterior is decent, it still doesn't seem as cohesive as it should be. Despite its tacky looks, I bet the G35 interior rattles and squeaks less than my supposedly "solid German interior" so maybe i should just suck it up and buy one. I'm praying that the next generation IS300 and/or G35 have a more "germanic" looking interior (with Japanese build quality of course). I can't wait. I still don't understand why its so hard for someone to do the following:
    make a well-built BMW, sell it for a fair price, and treat your customers well. That's all they have to do- and they can buy and number of BMWs to copy and compare so it can't be that hard. The problem seems to be that the Japanese have attempted to make the cars in this segment (IS, and G35), look too "sporty".

    Here's a suggestion: take the original GS300 (the original Guigaro design before Toyota uglified it), shrink it down a bit, put a manual tranmssions in it, and voila- you'll have an attractive RWD sports-sedan (with a decent interior). Actually, BMW is also getting hit with every branch on the ugly tree recently with Chris Bangles new designs. A perfect automotive collarboration would be for Audi to do the exterior and interior design, BMW to do the chassis dynamics, Honda to do the mechanical parts and Toyota to actually build it.
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    cotmccotmc Member Posts: 1,081
    It's been some time since I looked at a G35 interior, but I can see your point! I also agree with your comment about the exterior not being cohesive.

    Did you know that BMW had lightened (some say "ruined") the steering feel for the 2001 model year before you made your purchase? I'm glad BMW eventually came to their senses, but I have trouble understanding what possessed BMW to change their near-perfect steering at the beginning of that model year!

    I would recommend that you find the best dealership, and keep working at them to remove those rattles. I know that is easier said than done, and they may try to refuse to work all of it under warranty, but don't give up!
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    hughmccullochhughmcculloch Member Posts: 1
    Hey Guys

    I just joined your site and I thought you might be able to hep me out with this…I drive a 318 SE Oct. 2001 model



    1. During cold weather, my engine 2.0 Valvetronic, seems to be running fast (sticking at approx. 2000rpm) – is this a regular problem with this model of BMW?



    2. The rear windscreen doesn’t demist all the way to the top – the BMW garage has suggested that this is due to the aerial being placed into this area of the screen – Is this correct?



    Numerous BMW Garage checks have so far not provided me with any satisfactory explanations…



    Also do you know of any other regular problems regarding the 318 SE 2001 model?



    Thank you for your time and Knowledge!!!



    Hugh.
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    pearl2000pearl2000 Member Posts: 12
    I just picked up my new 320i Friday. I've been reading through the manual and other materials I received and the suggestions for cleaning the car's interior and exterior - right down to all kinds of special BMW cleaning products. Right now I've got a lot of dead bugs on the front (a drive in the country on Friday) which I know should be removed ASAP - any suggestions, other than those in the manuals, for best results for keeping the exterior shiny and new?
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Here's my current regimen:

    I recently switched to a "cheap and dirty" method that provides very good results with a minimum of cost and effort:

    1. Wash using BMW Car Shampoo(don't forget the door jambs!)
    2. Remove bugs with 3M Bug/Sap Remover
    3. Remove tar with Sonax Tar Remover
    4. Clean wheels with BMW Wheel Cleaner
    5. Rinse thoroughly
    6. Dry with Absorber, touch up with 100% cotton towels
    7. Vacumn interior and hatch area
    8. Clean/treat interior vinyl with Vinylex
    9. Clean/treat leather with Leathermaster cleaner and preservative
    10. Treat door seals with BMW Rubber Care
    11. Apply 3M Imperial Hand Glaze
    12. Wax with 3M Show Car Liquid Wax
    13.Remove any wax from black moldings with Sonax PVC Care
    14. Apply Zymol Protectant to all black molding and antenna.

    If I'm cleaning the engine I do that first using Simple Green and a low-pressure spray nozzle on the water hose. All underhood plastic and rubber is then treated with Zymol Protectant. If I want the maximum shine I go with Zymol HD Cleanse and Carbon Wax.
    In any event, I use Zymol Field Glaze to remove bird droppings, etc., between washes.
    FWIW, this regimen was good enough to nab the "Best Import" trophy for the Club Sport at a local car show a couple of weeks ago. In the winners photo the ti is flanked by a flamed, chopped, and channeled 1950 Merc, an SLP modified Trans Am, and a full dress Harley Sportster :)
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    pearl2000pearl2000 Member Posts: 12
    Wow - that's some regimen! How often do you clean the whole car? What about the windows? Is Absorber a brand name of towel? Thanks for the quick response.
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I do the whole nine yards about every six months. My ti is garaged and driven @150 miles per week. I do 1-7 about every month. The tar and bug removers will strip off wax, so I reapply wax to the affected areas. For glass, Stoner Invisible Glass works well. The Absorber is a synthetic chamois; It works great. A similar product can be found here:

    http://carcareonline.com/p21_drytowel_10416.html
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    bonzo2bonzo2 Member Posts: 1
    I have 1994 325i and have a strange problem.for past month on 3 occassions when starting out have very rough gear shift for about 1 mile and then back to normal! not always in morning ,once at 3pm after going to store.Dealer checked ,computer shows nothing and they cant duplicate, tell me all is well.while driving once revs up,6000 like stuck and did not change gears.Then back to normal
    for another week.Any suggestions?? dealer said not tranny!Dont know what to do.
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    aaron300zaaron300z Member Posts: 19
    Hello to all of you !!

    I've been driving this car for 2 years now and I'm in love with my car. The car is a 2000 323 Coupe with 5 speed and sport package. Black all over, even inside and of course the pretty wood trim to make it look very fancy.

    Let me tell you, I drive my car like a formula 1 driver. I go very fast and turn even faster. This is a perfect machine with the perfect balance. When I drive this car I feel that the car talk to me. I feel the road, I feel the limit, I feel like a champion. The trip from home to work and back home it's a pure joy.

    I got Bridgestone tire all over and I have to admit that those are the best tire. I would buy them again. They glue to the road so nice and smooth.

    The car is cheap on gas. I get like 25 to 27 mpg because most of my driving is on the highway at 80 to 90 mph. I use Mobil 1 93 oct all the time and do Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic every 10k miles.

    Thanks BMW for giving me so much pleasure and fun. I'm hoping to get a 530 with Sport package in 3 years and then I will be set for life
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    samgore2001samgore2001 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone

    I have a 2000 323i auto sedan, with about 37k miles on it. Recently, I have started getting some grinding noise in about 70-90 mph range. The noise is very annoying. Is this a documented problem? Does anyone know why? I would appreciate some suggestions, before I take it to a mechanic.

    Thanks
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    peachiebeemerpeachiebeemer Member Posts: 3
    Today I signed all the paperwork to purchase a 2001 325i with 17,000 miles. It has the sports package as well as the premium package, Harmon Kardon sound system. LOADED!
    However, I am a little concerned with the rear wheel drive. I currently drive a Honda Accord and have had a wonderful experience with it. But it is time to move on. I live in Michigan so the weather does get bad........! They say that the tires that come on the sport package, won't be good in winter??????????? Is this true? They suggested that I put on the all performance weather tires? First of all, I am concerned with how the car handles in the snow????? This is my biggest question? If it doesn't handle good in the 1st place, then tires won't make any difference? HELP>>>>>>>>>> before I hand over the check!!!!! Andra
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    shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Take a deep breath, and relax.

    Having grown up in Michigan driving RWD cars far less capable in the snow than your new 325i, I can tell you that you will do just fine. That said, it would be advisable to swap out the standard issue performance tires with dedicated winter tires, the difference is apparently profound.

    In my case, I just ended a 39-month lease on a 328i (sans SP) which had standard issue All-Season tires, and it did just fine here in Northern New Jersey for the four winters that I drove it. Given how nicely my former car performed without dedicated winter tires, I can only imagine how well it would have done with them. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
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    jwkanvikjwkanvik Member Posts: 1
    To Peachie - no worries. The advice to get snow tires is good advice. I have a buddy with a Z3 that swaps performance tires for snows every winter. No drive problems at all. I actually picked up my '02 325i in a snowstorm in Minneapolis, MN. Drove it all over down and really couldn't make it fly off the road, though I did try. And that was with SP tires, not snows. As long as you put snows on it, you should be fine.

    Problem/question: I have a manual on my 325i. When the car is cold, just short of the friction point there's a little hiccup in the clutch travel. Seems like it gets a little stuck and then "springs" up to my foot. Anyone else experience that?
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    jfedor1jfedor1 Member Posts: 39
    Last week I was stopped at a light with my AC on and the fogs on. Since it was getting darker I turned the main light on (Xeon). This caused the dash to buzz, and all the gauges reset, as if the car stalled and I restarted it. All the warning lights cycled, and the seat belt light would not go off till I unbuckled and re buckled. The engine did not hesitate at all. The clock was reset, trip odometer, and all the computer setting were reset (ie MPG,MPH...)

    One other minor problem, when it was still colder out my left turn signal would intermitantly not work on a cold morning for around the first 5 minutes of my commute.

    Other than these too the car has been great. (except for that rattle in the pillar that every body is talking about, I'm learning to live with it.)

    I don't know if I should worry about this and take it to the dealer.
    Thank you
    Josh
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    erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Josh,

    I had a similar problem on my 2002. My blinkers would work, but the indicator on the dash wouldn't. I experienced similar actions with my seat belt indicator. Other strange observations:

    1. Couldn't change the brightness of the odometer or radio (glowing bright).
    2. Radio wouldn't keep time, but dash would.
    3. Blinkers wouldn't indicate blinking until key removed, then wouldn't stop until key reinserted.

    Get it into the dealership asap. While it isn't 'critical' it is a pain in the rear. I ended up having some type of controller unit for the dash replaced. Apparantly a bad board in the controller. Since replacing that, everything has been perfect.

    -Paul
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    pearl2000pearl2000 Member Posts: 12
    I now have a stone chip in the top of the hood on the driver's side. It's quite small but as the car is only 2 weeks old I want to make sure it is dealt with properly. Relatively speaking it's quite deep and I wonder if it was there when I took delivery, but I just didn't notice until I cleaned the car. In any event, is the BMW touch up paint something I should use or is there another method for maintaining the paint job? I'm not looking at anything elaborate, I guess I want a quick fix (the car is silver). Many Thanks.
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    cnorthrupcnorthrup Member Posts: 74
    From what I have heard a common problem.

    I think it is a final stage resistor.

    CNorthrup
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    nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Check out the following company for paint scratch repair. I have purchased from them - prompt service and great customer support.


    http://www.paintscratch.com/

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    boelkeboelke Member Posts: 14
    I have a 2001 325I manual and have experienced the same problem with the clutch travel. It gets stuck close to the point of engaging the gears and it springs up. It gradually dissappears after a few minutes of driving. I noticed it last winter and it comes and goes every now and then. I observed the problem occurring again this summer. I'm planning to take the car to the dealer for a checkup. It is not bothersome but it becomes annoying when you start driving and the vehicle jerks because of the inconsistent travel. If anybody else has this problem any information on the resolution would be appreciated. BTW the vehicle was a 01/01 production date and made in Munich.
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    1997-on 5ers often have the same problem. The "Final Stage Resistor" has packed it in(assuming an E46 3er uses a similar system).
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'd get the BMW touch up paint. Use a 00 artists brush or a sharp toothpick to apply the paint. You goal build up the repair by using several thin coats of paint. When you're finished the repaired area should be a little higher than the surrounding paint. Let it dry for a few days and GENTLY use some clear coat safe polishing compound to level/blend the repair.
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    jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    The check engine light occasinally comes on, stays on, and then goes off. It has been doing it for about a week now.

    It never comes on at highway speed, but it does come on when idling off highway driving. the gas mileage still is 27-28. At idle speed, when the light comes on, the RPM drops from 850 to about 600, and when I change gear, and push the gas pedal, i feel a flat spot with no throttle response. As soon as the light goes out, the shifting and throttle response are fine.

    I hate to take it in if someone has a wild guess as what is wrong. The previous owner had the check engine light problem once two years ago at 73K miles (it has 90K now), the mechanic replaced the O2 sensor. I checked all the vacuum hoses as much as I could see. These in-line six cylinders have all air and vacuum hoses tucked under intake manifold. I can hardly see any vaccum hose connections. Also the gas tank cap is tight, and there is no cracks in the seal.

    Any ideas?
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    bmw323isbmw323is Member Posts: 410
    I had a similar problem with my clutch about a year ago. It also made a mild noise when nearly fully depressed. Took it to the dealer and they replaced a "bush bearing" in the clutch pedal assembly. For the first several miles of driving, it felt a bit different but the noise and "sticking" were gone. Hope this helps.
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    mcdanielbc1mcdanielbc1 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a used 2001 330ci. When driving it sounds like I am driving an economy car. My passenger door has a constant on going rattle. When I hit large bumps the driverside door sounds like the glass is knocking up against metal. Has any one else experienced this problem? I am wondering how receptive the dealer is going to be about taking both doors apart to fix the problem? I cant complain too much because I only paid 30K for the car with 17,000 miles on it.
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    ccotenjccotenj Member Posts: 610
    it depends... did you buy it from them? is it under warrantee?

    if you go in and ask nicely (i.e. instead of going in and yelling, which i'm not implying you would do), they probably can take care of it... these guys take apart doors for a living... for them, it's no big deal to take it apart and find it... i had a really bad rattle in my passenger side door that they fixed for me (of course, i had to pay for it)...

    -Chris
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    jjsmitty69jjsmitty69 Member Posts: 6
    I just took delivery of my 2002 325XI. What a great car! I have a question for all of the experts. How do I program the Key Memory? I have the seat and mirror memory down, but I am unable to program the individual keys. Is there a trick to this? The salesman attempted to show me but he couldn't get it to work. He suggested I read the owners manual. I did but it states to take it to the dealer to program. Is there a way for me to do this?
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    funnstuff100funnstuff100 Member Posts: 1
    I just took delivery of a 325xi, with every options except the nav. What a great car. I'm glad I opt'd for the sport package, the seats are much more comfortable than my prev 99 328i.
    Not to rush things but can't wait to try it out in the winter.:-)
    For anyone thinking of buying a Benz C-240 think, twice then three times and walk away. I'm currently in the midst of a lemon law suit. Even the judge is scratching their head as to y it's going to court.
    STICK WITH BMW YOUR EXPERIENCE ONLY BEGINS WITH YOUR PURCHASE!
    A tough lesson, but happy to be back in another BMW.
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    dwilso39dwilso39 Member Posts: 5
    I'm new to the BMW family so I not sure exactly what to make of the recent problems I've been experiencing with my Certified Pre-Owned 328ic. I bought the car last November and since then there has been a recurring problem with the top. When I try to open it, sometimes the top gets stuck on the back lid. There is also a problem with the lacing for the underside of the top; it keeps coming a loose. I’m also experiencing intermittent problem with the radio display fading in and out. Lastly, the TEMP button on the On-Board computer stays de-pressed when you activate it.

    When I called the dealer about these problems, they said neither was covered under my extended warranty. And, I had to wait 3 weeks just to get them to look at; and they said I’d be looking at about another $1,000.00 to fix all the problems.

    Are these sorts of maintenance issues common with BMW’s? I love the handling and the engine performance but I hate the fix-it headaches
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    lokkilokki Member Posts: 1,200
    You may want to start considering an independent shop which knows BMW's. There's no point in paying Dealer prices when there is no advantage to doing so.

    I don't believe that the problem with the OBC or the radio display are common problems; perhaps Contenj can speak about problems with convertible tops. I haven' heard about either before either here or on Bimmer.Org.

    My BMW CPO warranty covers everything but trim, but I am told that there are different levels of warranty for CPO cars.. still I'm suprised that a problem with the top isn't covered.

    How old is your car and how many miles does it have on it?
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    distancedriverdistancedriver Member Posts: 7
    I drive alot (110 miles per day) but got three flats in the last 9 months and I am wondering whether or not the problem is the continental tires on my 325xi. They seem a bit soft. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Is there an alternate tire I should consider? Otherwise I love the car. Best I've ever had.
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I know the CPO doesn't cover the radio, but I'd be surprised if it doesnt cover the top retraction and the OBC problems. You should have recieved a CPO booklet upon delivery; what does it say?
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    ccotenjccotenj Member Posts: 610
    problem with top opening should be covered under cpo, problem with it coming apart probably isn't, as they consider the top to be a wear part (but i'd push them a little on it)... the obc s/b covered as well... you *might* want to give your salesman a call, possibly he/she can intervene for you...

    re: the top problem... mine wants to stick on opening after the boot opens but before it starts to "fold up"... i give it a little noodge and it continues on ok... i would DEFINITELY get the loose lacing fixed... that's one of those things that costs you 30 bucks now and saves you 1000 down the road...

    they have a book in the service department of the dealership that says what is covered and what isn't... make them show you in the book where your problems are specifically excluded from the warrantee... if they aren't, push REALLY hard (although in a nice civil manner, yelling gets you nowhere) to get them to do it under warrantee...

    as far as the 3 weeks (not to mention the price quote without even looking at the car)... i'd find me a good independent, or another dealer in the area... i NEVER wait more than 2 or 3 days at my dealer, and they are one of the largest around...

    -Chris
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