DODGE Dakota Quad Cab 4.7 v8 yellow sludge in oil cap
I have a 2000 Qcab 4.7 v8 -last oil change had to add antifreeze & had generous amounts of thick yellow condensation/sludge in the oil cap. Dealer chked it out couldnt find any problem says normal for 4.7....I dont believe them...he said have had several other 4.7 with same symptoms. Any suggestions??
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paiello: That's BS - what is the manufacture's recommendation? Probably 7500 miles. The manufacturer needs to prove that neglect on your part caused the damage. Just going beyond the recommended miles does not void the warranty. Get out your manual and start the complaint process with their consumer's dept. Good luck.
Always an indication of coolant contamination, and you confirm it by adding antifreeze. Almost always a head gasket problem. Can indeed be destructive.
Usually the crankcase ventilation in an area that has high humidity is a cause of condensation on the dipstick and oil cap.More than likely condensation is building on the cap,which is the likely place for it to go, wheteher it be because of extreme humidity or a bad PCV valve.
If coolant was the cause then it would show up in the crankcase. The entire oil system would be showing the contamination.
If you want to question my credentials, go ahead, read thru Edmund's,you'll see my posts. I'll vouch for Alcan, I know his credentials.
alcan: I never said that coolant was "the only source of water in the oil". If you are going to attack my position, don't do it by distorting it. I am keying on the "yellow".
Opatience, the topic was not condensation, and sludge caused by coolant will not necessarily be all over the crankcase. It depends on the amount of coolant involved.
I generally think that water condensation gives you a gray sludge. Do I have it backwards? Sludge experts, I welcome your comments.
I still maintain that sludge is not normal; it is a problem that should be resolved. However, you all are probably right, that I have not seen many cars operated long periods of time, with only very short trips, in an area of high humidity.
murray22, the advice on the pcv valve is good; Stick a fresh one on soon.
I work on alot of Cat nat. gas engines and the 379,398 and 399 are notorious for forming yellow sludge in the valve covers in the winter months. These engines run 24/7 and still form yellow sludge in the cold months. It isn't antifreeze it is condensation. I've seen the same thing in a many a car engine also.
If there is not a sign of coolant or water in the crankcase oil, then more than likely it is condensation. If it is coolant, it would also reside in the crankcase.
Condensation will build a sludge in the valve cover,oil cap and dipstick, not necessarily all of them. I come from an area that is moist all the time and even vehicles that travel on the highways run into condensation problems if the PCV valve becomes bad.
If it were coolant, the coolant has to come from somewhere, either the head gasket, the intake manifold gasket or a crack in the head or block. All of these will push coolant into the oil system and all of these will send coolant into the crankcase. So if there is no sign of coolant in the crankcase, then unless you have had the oil analyzed and can confirm that it is coolant, then I would have to go with condensation from the PCV valve being bad.
Condesation when it mixed with the oil will create a sludge on the cap and valve cover.
the sludge twice. Just spoke with the dealer, they are saying its
condensation and they have a kit to fix it (supposedly), no charge.
I live in the northeast, so high humidity causing the condensation
makes sense. I'm getting the kit installed (will post what the parts
are later), and keeping the paperwork just in case...
It always had yellow sludge inside the oil cap; I was told by several mechanics that 'mayonnaise' is pretty routine stuff. The bettle ran forever anyhow, and whatever causes it - in a beetle it sure isn't antifreeze and it isn't a bad thermostat.
That beetle was up around 250 k miles the last I heard of it. As I said, I'm no expert, but based on the evidence, combined with the statements of the mechanics here, I'd get the new oil cap and not worry about it.
I do live in a high humidity are and condensation is a major problem here.
I have a 2000 club cab. my says oil changes ever 7,500 miles under normal conditions and 3,750 under extreme conditions ie hauling trailer and large loads ets. I think you have a bad dealership. Recomendations. 1. call dodge and let them know what you where told and file a complaint against the dealership. 2. Have the service manager explain to you who they can refuse to do warrenty work provided that you maintaned your truck as stated in the owners manual.I don't think can refuse to do warrenty work as long as you did the maintence as directed by the owners manual, have 3. call you attounrey General for you state and file a complaint. 4. file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau in you state. Don't take this seating down. 5. Get an attorney if needed. You paid good money for your vehicles and deserve the Service that goes with it. Good Luck.
I have 2000 4.7l,4X4, auto with 20K miles on it. Gas mileage never got better than 16miles/gal. I have cab and always some weight on the back. Pretty happy so far. Last winter I noticed that foaming and moisture in oil filling tube. I called the dealer, of course it's normal. This winter besides that there is also brown, rusty sludge on the walls and cap. I tried my dealer again, not to worry it's normal. After calling few other dealers around, I decided to call Chrysler. All the sudden there is a problem, and they have a kit to fix it. As you already know the cap and baffle. If your dealer pretends, he doesn't know what you talking about tell him to go on his computer to TSB and go to post#0900100A, this should open his eyes. Other posts worth attention are #0900999 (ticking noise) and 0802200A (camshaft position sensor). I was trying to fix ticking noise since I bought the truck, nobody at service could hear it, as always. Never found any noise from camshaft. Maybe changing cap and baffle will help, but other thing worth consideration is switching into synthetic oil. I heart that regular oils can absorb some moisture and this will change their characteristics. Synthetic supposedly repeals all moisture. I was always skeptical about synthetic oil and proffered frequent oil changes, but maybe it's time to change. Did anybody changed air filter with K&N. If so, have you noticed any improvement in gas mileage and power, also where did you buy it?. Last thing. I broke one of the fog lights. Dealer wants almost $100. I thing this is ridiculous, for such a piece of... Did anybody get them after market or decent brand that fits opening in the bumper. Thanks for attention. Good luck with your trucks!
I've just got my truck serviced to fix sludge problem. All they did was replacing the cup and inserting some plastic divider which supposed to prevent the foam from reaching up to the cup. From what someone described I thought they would replace the whole filling tube. What they've done is obviously not going to prevent foaming. I still consider switching for synthec., but is it really worth the money. The regular oil change cost me $10 max. versus 30$ for synthec. I still wouldn't go beyond 5000 miles, so what's the point.