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The only thing I might change would be to upgrade the stock wiper blades to a set of Bosch units.
As a displaced Pittsburgher now living in NJ, I am tempted to make another road trip for the AFC title game this weekend. But as I am rapidly approaching 15,000 miles in eight months of ownership, I'm gonna give the GT a break this time. I'll just drive down to the Liberty Cafe in Hoboken and get crazy with the other displaced Steeler fans. GO BLACK AND GOLD!!
There are many new and exciting product offerings in this growing segment and Edmunds could put together a bang-up comparison test. Perhaps the following vehicles could be included:
Hyundai Elantra GT
Mazda Protege5
Ford Focus ZX5
Kia Spectra
VW Golf
VW Jetta Wagon(?)
Kia Rio Cinco(?)
Oh, well..just a thought. Despite our citizenry's disturbing propensity to purchase SUVs there are still some of us out there who can appreciate the utility of a good old hathcback design!
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
It's been a few months since I've posted anything, so I thought I'd give an update.
My 2001.5 GT 5-speed (with "comfort suspension") now has over 13,000 miles. The only real issues I've had during this time are:
(1) My CD player freaks out from time to time. When I hit a decent bump in the road, sometimes the CD player will stop playing, a few seconds later a message, "err 03" comes up on the CD display, and it ejects the CD. Other times, I'll hit a big bump and it will play fine. This one has got me stumped, but it only "errors" infrequently.
(2) The stock wipers plain suck, but I don't mind at all if that's one of the ways they keep this car priced so low! I would NOT recommend Bosch wipers to anyone living in the south, as they do not fare well in extreme heat. I've experienced this in the past when I bought a pair that were warped within a couple of hot, summer months in Tennessee and had an Auto Zone staff member say the same thing.
All-in-all, I am very happy with my Elantra GT. It rides nice, has good acceleration, and gets good fuel economy. I have been averaging about 33.5 mpg (85% highway miles).
Now, if I can only convince my sister-in-law that it is OK now to buy a Hyundai. . .
I'm approaching 1400 miles on my 2002 Elantra GT. The car is wonderful to drive, very comfortable, and loaded with all the creature comforts I need.
To date, I've only had to take the car in for a rattling/vibration coming from the front passenger door. To my dealer's credit, they fixed the problem completely on the first try. The only other concern I have is a sticking fuel filler door...it takes multiple pulls on the release lever to get the fuel door to pop open.
Other than those minor issues, the car runs great. Most of my driving is city-based, and my mileage is hovering around 24 mpg. On the rare occasion when I'm on the highway I find myself VERY impressed with how quiet the GT is. The stock radio sounds better than the one in my old Volkswagen GTI, and the ventilation system is fantastic.
Overall, the GT offers a lot more bang for the buck than I originally thought. Kudos to Hyundai for offering such a great car at a great price.
I have had no problems with the car but have had two "quirks",such as:
1) fuel gauge occasionally will not read full at first,but then settles right after driving a little.
2) the much ballyhooed 2-3rd gear shift flair is very minor and is gone once the tranny is warm.
>
Hey,that's it for problems!Not bad at all. I did purchase a full-sized steel rimmed spare tire which JUST fits into the spare compartment...and I bought a front end cover bra.
All is well in "Hyundai land" for me.Very pleased.
For the price, the car is pretty impressive, the more I'm in the car the more I like it. Window tint, for me, will be a necessity and I will get that put on at the first opportunity.
I have the 2-3 shift flair, the degree varies, it can be quite bad at times, I will get it attended to at the 1000km inspection, and through the pointers found in here I can point the dealer to the problem, so no excuses
Many of the litte features in the car are a nice touch and it seems Hyundai did a lot of thinking about the vehicle
I too used this board to help make my decision in choosing a Hyundai. I now have 2600 miles and have had many similar experiences including improved mileage. I definitely recommend it to anyone in the market.
Overall, love the car and expect to keep it for many years. Handling is very good for the class and acceleration is more than adequate (the 5sp tran. makes a big difference) I think I'm going to try the K&N filter as well. The seats are great, especially the multi-adjustable drivers seat. This is the first car I've owned that didn't leave me with an aching back after long drives.
Now for my minor complaints:
Lighting in the hatch area is almost useless. I'm thinking of wiring up an additional or better light.
I haven't had the rattle from the passenger side belt hitting the B-piller, but the latch does rattle against the center console. I just stick a rag between them for now but will have to work on a better solution.
I also have a slight rattle from the glove box door. Goes away when warm.
I understand it may be illegal, but I do wish I could turn on the fog lights without the headlights (like having daylight running lights).
Got a ding on the hood from a falling acorn (thin sheet metal). Suggest all to avoid parking under Oak trees if possible:-)
This are just minor grips that don't sour me on the car.
Two more significant complaints:
Radio reception is very poor. Several stations I received clearly in other cars now come in with whistles and background noise. I'm not yet ready to upgrade the stereo, but would be interested in hearing if anyone else has this problem as well. I'm not an audiophile so I don't know if a better antenna might help.
As mentioned in several early posts, I too hear an intermittent whistle when the A/C is on (it's not the radio). It happens for 30 secs. every 3 to five minutes. Has anyone discussed this with their dealer? Any suggestions or fixes?
Back on the plus side, the GT has performed great in foul weather. We even had four inches of snow at the beginning of the year. Not much when compared to northern areas, but we don't have much snow removal equipment either so I got lots of chances to test performance. The TCS came on a few times as did the ABS. No life threatening situations, but they were helpful and I'm glad I got the package. Most people in this area haven't got a clue when it comes to driving in snow or heavy rain so it is comforting to know I have some assistance with accident avoidance.
I had a Ford Ranger before this. The only thing I miss is having the bed to haul things. I want to get a light weight trailer (max load 1000lbs). Has anyone put a hitch on their GT? Cost? How does it handle the load? I'll just be using it for trips to Home Depot for lumber and such so I won't be overly taxing the clutch, but would like some feedback before trying it.
I do notice that when cold, the engine makes a tap tap noise until it warms up a bit. Valves? Ignition knock?
Otherwise, one great car for the money. Maybe they should make a Sonata GT hatch to compete with the forhtcoming Mazda 6?
Today, we had weather in 60 degrees so drove with moonroof open. Heard an odd sound from driver's side rear with roof fully open, when closed 1/2 way it goes away. Anyone else with this? Thanks and keep the messages coming, they really help.
http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/SparkPlugs/PlatinumPlus4/
The GT comes with platinum plugs, but I doubt that they are the 4-ground electrode Bosch variety.
Meanwhile, I installed a K & N Filtercharger air filter in the GT last Friday and it does make a difference in performance. The engine seems more eager to rev. and seems even freer now. There is definitely a bit more torque, although how much I don't know. I am yet to see a difference in fuel consumption, though.
Thanks...
Dave
"Just a fyi, the Elantra does not use platinum plugs to my knowledge. They use the same Champion cheapy plugs that all Hyundais use. If they had platinum plugs, then Hyundai would not require them to be changed every 30k miles."
If you turn to page 6-6 of the manual, it says:
"Your car was originally equipped with platinum-tipped spark plugs...."
It goes on to describe the plugs as having blue lines on the ceramic shell, and also it goes on to caution users agains cleaning or re-gapping.
The recommended plugs are:
Champion RC10PYP4
NGK PFR5N-11
Don't know if these are platinum ... I would assume so.
The maintenance schedule refers to platinum coated plugs, and calls for their replacement every 4 years or 60,000 miles. Makes sense to me.
My solution was to buy two GE mini touch lights. They are about 6 inches in diameter, 3 inches tall and run on 2 AA batteries. You turn them off and on by pressing the plastic face plate. They give off just enough light for someone to read in the rear seats. For the hatch, one can buy a larger touch plate light. They would go some way in alleviating the poor lighting.
Also, there is mention of a remote fuel door release. Is this the release lever on the driver side? Or is this a separate feature related to the keyless entry system?
Thanks in advance
Dave
When I was shopping, I got rates for a Sonata, a Kia Optima and the GT, and the GT was the lowest. The insurance agent only had GLS models listed in her software so it is called a GLS. I have comprehensive coverage and in general Hyundais are average to insure for comprehensive.
There are many other factors that would come into play before the actual car makes a difference, GT vs. Civic vs Corolla, etc. AAMOF, I would think that the Civic and Corolla would both be more expensive to insure. Other significant and contributory factors would be age of drivers, where the car would be principally driven and principal use of the vehicle.
For the person who has found the GT being $40/year more than the other cars looked at ... I think that is a drop in the bucket. If you are down to $40/year influencing a decision, then probably a cheaper car might be a better alternative. I just spent $44 for a K & N filter for my GT.
You might have found the answer to the latter by the time you read this, but the lever which releases the fuel filler door is on the floor, next the the driver's side door sill, just ahead of the driver's seat.
Speaking of which ... mine sticks a bit as well, but once released, it does not stick if you keep opening and closing it repeatedly *at that time*. Given some pause, and it might require 2 or 3 pulls next time you try and open it. Sounds to me that the striker tab on the door itself could be bent away from the tongue ever so slightly to solve the problem.
Back to dmarzo1's first question -- the GT is equipped with an alarm and ignition kill switch which are only activated when the doors are locked using the remote. There is nothing you have to do specifically to set the alarm.
Locking the doors with the central locking (i.e. pushing the lock on the driver's door) will only lock the car, not set the alarm. If you try and open the doors or hatch without first unlocking the car with the remote, the alarm will go off (sickening high pitched sqeak-beep) and the ignition circuit will be cut until you press the "Open" button on the remote to shut the alarm off.
Pet peeve -- there is no blinking light to tell thieves that there is a security system installed in the car. There is also no glass-break sensor. It is a basic alarm system. One could go into the efficacy of alarm systems in general, but that is another discussion.
So thanks for letting us know how you throw your money around, I'm always so impressed by that. Guess I better not eat for the next few days so I can afford a K & N filter too.
"I'm car shopping now, and when I contacted my dealer the GT was about $40 a year more than the other cars I was shopping for."
To me, that is plain English for the dealer quoting you $40/year more for the car. Maybe you meant $40/yr more for insurance -- that is a whole different ballgame. That is not what you wrote. Unless you call your insurance agent your dealer or unless you buy insurance from the same place you buy your car.
It is always best to re-read what one writes before sending off what amounts to be a flame in disguise.
Regarding my point about the filter (lest you miscontstrue what is being said) -- I was merely making a point that one simple part could exceed the cost of the $40/year difference. Simple.
Oh, in case you're wondering what I bought, I took my down payment and paid cash for an '87 Alfa Romeo Spider. How's that for weird?
-Jason
"I believe a big part of it comes from the fact that the parts have to come in from Korea--making them more expensive."
Stands to reason, especially when comprehensive (other than collission) is considered. For liability insurance the cost of parts should not have anything to do with premiums. One must not forget also, that vans are rated lower than cars (all things being equal) because (I guess that) the actuaries suppose that people are less likely to get into trouble with a minivan as opposed to a sedan as opposed to a sports sedan, etc.
Who knows ... YMMMV, right?
I used to be an insurance agent so I had a pretty good feel for what kind of factors affected insurance rates. The following is based on how my company did it, but I suspect most companys are similar.
Liability: Not affected by the vehicle. Rates were based on age, driving record, zip code, distance to work, etc. In Colorado Springs, the south-side paid 50-60% more than people in the more affluent north-side suburbs. My clients who moved from one zip to another (especially if they were moving south) didn't appreciate that much, but our actuaries had the stats to back the rates up.
Comprehensive and Collision: The vehicle is everything here. Small, "entry-level" cars have terrible accident statistics, partly because they are driven by younger, less experienced drivers and partly because they were more badly damaged in collisions with bigger cars. My company had correspondingly higher rates to to match. It actually cost more to insure a Metro than an Olds 88 that cost three times as much. It may be that because of Hyundai's lower purchase price, the age and experience of it's average driver may be lower, thus costing more for insurance than other cars in it's class. Hopefully the increasingly upscale movement of Hyundai will make it's rates more similar to the competition.
On another subject, I have to agree with bri70, the lighting in the back of my GT is terrible. I have to load my two small children into their car seats in the dark every morning, and it's no picnic! I've taken to wearing a Snakelight around my neck, but I may try the tap light idea.
On the other hand, the Isofix child seat anchors in the back are fantastic. I bought two of the new Isofix compatible seats and they latched in very securely. They feel like they're bolted to the frame, a very good thing if you're transporting your most important possessions in a small car.
I finally completed my break-in mileage this weekend (avg mpg 29.6!) and have finally had a chance to put the hammer down a bit. My GT is a blast to drive! I had figured that trading my Audi for a Hyundai would help improve my marginal driving record, but at this rate I'll be riding a bicycle in no time!
btw...I used an official Hyundai Filter purchased at a Hyundai dealership.
"The owner's manual states that you replace your motor oil with 4.5 quarts.THIS IS WRONG!! You will find your dipstick "exactly" on the fill-line with 3.5 quarts! That's 3 quarts + additional .5 quart for the filter.If you follow the manual's advice you will OVERFILL."
I recently did my Grand Caravan 3.8litre V-6 oil change and it has a 4.5 quart oil capacity, so I suspect what you are saying may well be true, since the GT's engine is smaller.
However, some manuals say that one should check levels after the engine has had a chance to circulate the oil, whereas others say that the oil should be checked after the oil has drained into the pan. The Chilton's manual for the Dodge suggests the former approach.
Maybe this is what the Hyundai manual is leading to, and that 4.5 quarts is the capacity that a full reading would give, after the engine has circulated the oil. The manual that comes with the car is woefully inadequate when it comes to DIY maintenance. For instance, there are no torque specs tabulated anywhere.
I suggest checking the dipstick after the car has had a chance to run, and see what it says.
This was SuperTech bottled oil, so my assumption is that they pulled four quarts off the shelf and the differences were in the way they figured it.
I never had any problems with Fram filters. What is the story behind the dislike for Fram?
Significantly less filtering capacity. 193 square inches v. 337 for a typical Champ Lab (Car & Driver/Target) oil filter for the same car.
Antidrainback valve which is cheap and allows leakage back into the engine resulting in dry starts and excess valve train noise.
Unfortunately the expose from the Fram engineer has been removed from the Minimopar filter site. That WAS an eye opener.
I think Fram has been thoroughly discussed in the best oil filter forum in Maintenance and Repair.
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram
"Then I literally stumbled across this Town Hall and now I'm hooked! I'm test drving a GT this coming Saturday, and I'm hoping that I find out that this is absolutely the car for me"
Sounds like you will. I am sure that you will be impressed. Once people actually take the step and *try* the GT (as opposed to forming opinions at a distance based on any number of reasons), they usually see what owners already know. :-)
Sounds like you might find the GT website that I am putting together very interesting.
Now the question is ... how do Hyundai filters stack up? Maybe they are just as deficient as Fram. Maybe they are made by Fram ... does anyone know? I'd like to do an oil change soon since I don't want to wait until 7500 miles to do the first one. There is an engine break-in in the present oil that have, and I want to get rid of any grit that is there.
btw....I read on another board that there are some questions regarding the correct amount of ATF fluid to replace, differing frm the Manual advice also. Anyone with info on this? I had my tranny fluid checked after 13,300 miles and it showed exactly full as well as being clean as a whistle (yes!).
I'll probably go back to the dealer at 16K but for now I'm getting the $11.99 Wal-Mart special, posting large signs reading "SuperTech" not Fram on the dash. The Wal-Mart filter is stock Champion Labs, but still has about twice the filtering medium that a Fram would and metal instead of cardboard construction. Some of the oil posts have dissed bulk oil and the SuperTech oil is at least bottled-- it's Quaker State by the way. They still haven't switched over to ILSAC GF3/SL. Suspect it's a matter of getting old stock out of the warehouse.
I figure the best mechanics don't do oil changes anyway, and the seventeen year old kid ruining your car at Wal-Mart may have been the seventeen year old kid ruining your car at a dealership last month. I always check levels carefully after the service because you never know. Unlike Jiffy Lube (which would stick on a Fram filter) Wal-Mart doesn't seem to want to over sell-- i.e. yanking your battery out of the car, etc.
- Check the dipstick.
- Measure the oil drained out, say by draining it into a milk jug. Or two, in case it really is 4.5 quarts
- If the dipstick read "full" then pour in as much oil as you drained out.
What I want to know is when would you recommend getting the oil changed? The dealer says 1500 miles, but I know (or have been told) with a new car there are little pieces of junk (filings, etc . . .) in the initial oil. I want to know whether its better to get this stuff flushed out or just wait until the 1500 mile mark.
Thanks!
"Sounds like you might find the GT website that I am putting together very interesting"
I would be very interested in that website once you've got it together. I would love to spread the word...
And thanks to meinrad for the words of encouragement. I'm having major difficulties with the return of my leased Saturn, so anything looks good after my sour relationship with that company.