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2010+ Buick Lacrosse Body, Chassis and Exterior



  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Weather has been quite changeable, sometimes quite cool overnight and during day. This leads to the monitor showing the cold pressure as 33, 2 # low. It apparently makes a big difference in the sidewall flex and does away with a lot of the harshness and also allows tire to absorb some of the lateral force from the road rather than passing it all to passengers.
    Allowing the tread to track in such a way seems that it would also be less likely to force the tread to break grip with the surface, thus safer.
  • I think I'm going to have my dealer take a look at the way the left side (looking forward) of the trunk lid doesn't quite meet with the quarter panel top at the same place as on the right. There's an obvious extra gap and the surfaces don't meet. Also, closing the trunk with one downward push seems to be a hit or miss situation. It's not at all "solid" like closing one of the doors.More than often it takes 2 tries to close it. Maybe my "gap" is letting air prevent a good connection.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Sometimes adjustment can help and I hope that is the issue.
    Here is hoping that the body panel placement and welding robot did not have a hangover that day. Or much the same for manufacturing the trunk lid.
    But whatever fixes the alignment issue, you can truly say your car was custom built ;-)
    As to the closing issue, I think that might be common. I too have often missed the amount of swing needed for it to lock.
    In case you missed it, there is a small plastic handle on the inside, right of tag area, for pulling lid shut. I'm guessing they put it there so you can avoid paw prints on your shiny vehicle. Definitely not self closing.
  • djaadjaa Posts: 8
    The vibration in my LeCrosse is finally gone! After about making a scene, they had an engineer come drive it and used an instrument that detects vibrations. It didnt even register a problem although he felt it. He did say, that if you had more than one marginal tire and the high spots were opposite each other in rotation they might cancel each other out. Then when they rotated insink with each other you would get a vibration. That would be why my vibration would come and go. So they chucked my tires up and did indeed find two tires marginal. They tried taking tires from existing LeCrosses from the lot and finally came up with one. The other they got from a tire store, had to go through 2 before they found a good one. My LeCrosse rides as smooth as glass, just as it should!!! I love Mich. tires but I guess they are not all created equal! They said the tires cant be the cause, because they normally install Mich. tires to correct these type of issues! Ive been preaching the tire theory for 2 months now as a thought and a place to start. It finally paid off. I have 4 good tires with low single digit roadforce numbers! I think the comments I made on my "new car questioniar" helped light the fire! I am glad that they finally dug in and stayed the course to find and repair the source of my vibration. I am NOW a happy customer of Andy Mohr Buick GMC in central Indiana!
  • Hmmm, my impression of the reason for the plastic handle in the trunk was if you are kidnapped and shoved into the trunk by your abductors, it provided a means for your escape. Maybe I watch too much TV.

    I think the better means for closing the trunk is to use the bulge in the sheet metal at the bottom of the lid rather than the extended Buick emblem. I think if you keep using the Buick emblem it's eventually going to loosen and become a problem. YMMV
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Wrong handle, not the yellow escape tag. Maybe it is there so you can lock yourself in by pulling it shut with this handle.
  • Yes, I missed that black molded hand hold right of center, even as many times I was in and out of the trunk on our trip! Thanks for pointing me to it. I tried it tonight - it's absolutely useless, unless its purpose it to just lower the lid from its extreme open position to a mid point. But to shut the lid using this thing? Nope.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    It does have the use you mentioned. To get it to latch you have to give it a snap of the wrist. You can tell it does not have the solid sound of doors closing and intuitively you would think gravity would help a lot. But anti-gravity lifts and light weight of it fight back. Only once did I do it with so much force that it sounded a bit much.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Has anyone had a vehicle Ziebart'ed or considered doing it to this vehicle?
    I'm intrigued by sound deadening they have available.

    I went for a quiet drive last night, little traffic. Even though the air was cool by then, it should not have hardened tires, but I could hear that "whoomp, whoomp" as things rotated. Not loud but definitely there. After about three miles where I could get past 30MPH it seemed to fade. At 45-50 MPH tire noises were still present from contact with surface. Definitely not the quietest I've ridden on, but not terrible, yet noisy enough to interfere with quiet listening of music.

    The tires seem much quieter than when they were new. This is the first I new that tires needed a break-in, 600 miles. It is a bit hard to judge because we are entering a season of quite cooler road surfaces which greatly effect noise.
    I noticed significant quieting at about 1200 miles.
  • Had to look that one up - never had heard of Ziebart 'til now. Don't think I'd consider it.

    As far as road noise, you have to consider the road surface first, I think. A nice smooth asphalt is considerably more quiet than an aggregated concrete. On our trip I was impressed by the CXS's quiet ride on asphalt but then all our cars were fairly quiet on it. I think tires became more noisy when M+S ratings became standard.

    One other factor that might contribute to cabin noise I considered is the mesh screen that covers the extra-long sunroof opening. Perhaps a more solid cover matching the interior roofing material would better dampen exterior noise
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I understand the road noise concept with tires, etc. Quieter tires would be option. But also noise travels through the metal from whatever source.
    I mentioned somewhere that I had a 84 Topaz diesel that the factory did an outstanding sound and vibration dampening on. The whole underside was sprayed with something that gave it a rimple surface and that painted over.

    Ziebart was the only thing I could think of that might be aftermarket. I had a friend whose father had a 56 Dodge Corona that had been Ziebart. This was his everyday car and it looked show room fresh during the mid 80's and it was attributed to the Ziebart rustproofing and coating.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Just noticed a new motion at 1800 miles. It was not there earlier.
    On cornering it now sometimes displays a wobble, duck walk, motion. 90 degree turns that is.
    It could certainly lead to scalloping of tire if that is not what is causing it.
    At any other time it certainly does not act like alignment.
    I will have to keep an eye on it.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    CXL Touring package.
    Upon returning from cold country where I had to add 3# of pressure, it was of course 3# high at home.
    I drove a couple of days until I was able to adjust.
    I would definitely recommend against over airing these tires. It gave the feeling of riding on narrow bicycle tires for handling and transferred even slight road imperfections. It also felt like I was riding on center tread with no sidewall flex. A sure way to scuff the tread at the center, along with sense of less traction.
    For those who say to air to max pressure on tire, I'm sure manufacturer did not intend tire to be road on with a laterally curved surface.
    In an attempt to stop such manufacturers tried a steel band in place of steel cord for awhile. It might be because some were not airing tires up enough but it was stopped because of real world experiences. That solid steel band would suffer metal fatique, crack, and separate with explosive results.
  • tom2246tom2246 Posts: 29
    I had the "fix" done the week after Thanksgiving and to my delight my car now steers and rides as it should. I would add that it steers much better than it did, more road feedback is how I would describe it.

    I would add that they also replaced the seat rack, everything but the actual seat, and it also behaves much better than the old one. I wonder if the seat issues mentioned elsewhere would be fixed by this very pricey fix (GM says it's a $500 part).
  • bobinorbobinor Posts: 63
    Has anyone added splash guards to their LaCrosse wheel wells? Are they effective?

    I see dirty water marks as high as the contour just below the side windows after driving on wet roads. Those 19" wheels sure throw up the muck. I wouldn't want to ruin the stylish looks of my CXS but if splash guards can be added without doing that and they are functional, I would consider them. I'm also concerned about the tires kicking up gravel that could chip away at the finish from mid-door down. Am I imagining a problem that doesn't need a solution?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I've noticed how nasty my car gets having driven on salted roads. The pattern sounds quite similar to what you describe and suspect it is not because of tires but airflow around vehicle. The little factory flaps might be sufficient to stop any stone chips if that shows up as a problem.
    Unfortunately a truck in adjacent lane already got my hood and I do not see galvanizing like I would have on the Aurora.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I've noticed the chrome port is getting nasty from exhaust. It pretty much makes me wonder why it does not have an extension. Other models exit under the vehicle with a bend at the end of the pipe.
    If anyone tries an extention and find it works, please post back.
    I think some nice chrome extentions might look nice.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Not sure if wife did it or it happened while driving through some icey snow, but driver front wheel now has scratches, very shallow. Mostly it is removed finish and I am looking for ideas to repair it.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,944
    net rider, here are two posts that addresses your question:

    Post #716 -- Aug 04, 2010 (10:57 am)

    Replying to: bass21279 (Aug 04, 2010 6:47 am)
    I did the same thign to my rim. Have you looke dinto any options to have it replaced? Would this be worth an insurance claim?

    bass21279, The damage is minor, just a scratch really, and probably one would not notice it unless they were looking very closely. However, the so-called alloy wheel is covered with a plastic coating so I am not sure how the scratch will age.

    Post #749 -- Aug 14, 2010 (7:11 am)
    Replying to: bass21279 (Aug 04, 2010 6:47 am)

    bass21279 --- What do you know, the dealer fixed the scratch on my 19" rims and it looks as good as new, so good in fact you cannot differentiate the repair from the other wheels. I don't know how they did it but essentially the body shop removed the rim from the tire, polished the rim and then applied the factory coating to make it look exactly like the other wheels. They said they had done the same thing for an elderly woman who had more extensive damage on both passenger side rims.

    Cost? No charge. He said since they had not paired my cell phone or properly explained the operation of the memory seat when I took delivery then the wheel repair was complimentary and on the house. Hmm! pretty nice, even treating me like a Lexus customer. Heck, for the price I paid for this car I think I deserve it. Way to go Buick.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thank you very much. I mention it next time vehicle goes in.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    After my little rant about seat memory in the main topic I figured it was time to update this issue.
    I have a habit of avoiding steering hard to limits so I don't strain components, but sooner or later you will find those limits. Then I would release wheel just enough to bounce back from that position.
    Mine has started making the loud clunk when reaching limit. Others have posted of it and I presumed it was the sound of hitting the limiter. Not so in my case it seems. It sounds and feels like the joint is popping from its seat.
    Many of these joints are a machined ball and socket and the ball is held seated by a spring. The spring maintains tightness of the joint as it wears and the spring has a lot of pressure. I've seen the naiive sold unnecessary ball joint and tie-rod jobs. Mechanic uses a very large pair of pliers and squeezes to overcome spring. The movement is used to sell an unnecessary repair. (I wonder how many of the new parts would act the same way.)
    This case, the ball is popping from the socket from power steering force. At the least, the limiter is located in the wrong place it seems. It should be at the rack it seems. And if the rack pops it can enough road forces be generated to pop it? This could be a serious control problem under extreme dangerous conditions. And would certainly get worse with time as demonstrated by the fact it does not do new, but does start popping with low mileage.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I've probably noticed the slight gap before, the seal at the front edge of door. I just learned that it is not part of fender but attached to door. These seals are obviously not making full contact with fender.
    Anyone else notice this?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I had previously posted about the large amounts of weight when the car was near new. As much as a dozen weights inside and outside on most wheels.
    I can see no weights whatsoever since the rebalance at 8000 miles. Could there really have been that much change?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My previous post about the door seals at front of door not making contact with fender was glazed over at dealer. But then there are so many issues, more pressing as well.
    I gave mine a good hand wash this morning. Has anyone else started noticing seals that are shifting as if they might be shrinking since install?
    On all four doors, along front edge, you will see what might be a splice point during manufacturer. On two doors it is completely separated and on the other two it is partially separated, not all the way through yet.
    And the seal that runs from front to back along bottom of door openings, held a little surprise. You owners that are in salt country are going to love this one.
    Water kept dripping long after I finished drying car and I looked closely at the seal, pulling it a bit away from body near back. Car was in inclined driveway so water was working its way that direction. I found a small rectangular hole on the inner/upper side. The darned thing was full of water. I checked and could not find a drain hole in it. Just lovely. A place to hold water in contact with the body, and salt.
    Upon drying the inner surfaces of doors and cavities after washing, I paid a bit closer attention to the right side because it seems I am hearing more road noise from that side. It was more a curiosity thing than else because it may be the acoustics of the interior. But now suspect this as a source of some wind noise behind me as well.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I washed with Armorall car wash but am slightly disappointed.
    Neighbor turned his sprinkler on and watered my side yard and most of driveway. Water spots are all over my car.
    Does anyone know a product good for removing them?
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 298
    Rider: We have used (only) the pink clearcoat glaze that the dealers use to prep and detail new cars. Comes in a gallon jug and costs less than $30 last time. Jug lasts forever and product has no residual haze for darker colors. Our silver 2010 Lacrosse is foregiving but our Black Bonneville is not.
    Beautiful product if dealer will sell to you since they get it from local wholesalers. Very light abrasive rating so it removes the water spots w/o affecting the finish and EASY to use.
    Good luck.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Might that be Strawberry wet wax? Applied with buffer and wet sponge?
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 298
    No. the clear coat glaze is applied as a thick liquid and dries to a haze.
    dealer item thru local distributor where we live. not really expensive given how long a gallon lasts even with multiple cars.
    Excellent product for dark finish cars IMO.
  • I have a Black LaCrosse with water spots compliments of Palm Springs, CA garden sprinklers. Crankee: can you provide a brand name/model # of the glaze product you are referring to?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    edited June 2011
    The wet wax/glaze is allowed to dry and then is easily dusted off. Man running the dealer detail shop told me they order from Florida.
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