igloomaster, My wife and I had that problem. Changing from summer to winter tires. Buy an extra set of rims or not. Use studs or not. Two wheels or four wheels and even more rims. Then we made a decision to live where we'll never see another snow tire as long as we live! Now we complain about how cold it is when the temperature is below 50. Rich
Just ordered my 2000 Silverado LS 1/2 ton. Dealer strongly recommended the All Terain 265/75's with the Z85 firm ride suspension.
Drove several versions - and this was the smoothese combination. I have heard that if you plan to drive <60% of the time off-road or on rough terrain, stay away from the Z71. Regular highway / local driving will not give you a generally smooth ride on the 99-2000 z71 suspension.
Unfortunately, I ordered and drove only 4x4 so I cannot speak to the 2WD issue.
You can put a baby seat in a the back seat of a pickup, as long as the back seat is front facing. This is generally not a problem on full-size pickups, but pretty much limits you to only the Dodge Dakota in the compact segment. The Chevy S-10, Ford Ranger, Toyota Tacoma, and Nissan Frontier all have side-facing rear seats. You cannot safely put a baby seat in a side-facing rear seat.
The Baby Seat will fit fine in a Full Size Extend Cab Pick-Up Truck. It is a tight squeeze in a Compact Extend Cab but it will fit as long as your youngster's legs don't start growing like crazy. If you have problems with installing it, you can usually drop by a local Firestation and the guys there love to help and show people how to install them correctly. My Brother in Law is a EMT with a Firestation and he does this all of the time.
downshiftphil, I KNOW that you don't want to hear this but.... Having been there about 30 years ago, I would stay with the SUV. It isn't the infant seat issue but rather all the "other stuff" that seems to come along with the baby. I went from a Camaro to a full sized station wagon within 3 months after the bundle of joy arrived. The "other stuff" easily filled the space between tail gate and second seat. Don't worry, about the time that your youngest is about 15 or 16, you can start thinking about a truck again. Rich
I went from a small 4 banger Pontiac after geting married. I gave up my 4x4 for "Family Considerations". I cried all the way to the dealership. But it was the right thing to do, so it was done. Man don't you hate it when that happens!
Phil, if you can afford it, get a truck! If you can't stick with the SUV or a wagon you and the family will not regret it ("family considerations" need it!!)
Anyone have an specific recos on nerf bars? I was thinking of stainless steel, but advice is appreciated.
Also, does anyone know of any corrosion (rust) problems with any particular kind of nerf bars? I live in Kentucky and they salt the roads when it snows. I know that certain metals corrode when placed in contact with each other, especially when exposed to salt water. Has anyone had a problem with this? Does it risk voiding the warranty?
Would like to replace my guttless '95 Ranger XLT Supercab 2.3l for a '99 or '00 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner or Toyota Tacoma Prerunner with the DOHC V-6. Any ideas? Don't want a full size, have had them, been there, done that (Refer to profile) Don't want no stinkin S10 or Dakota, Mazda, Hombre...
Have a 1999 Dodge, 3500 Quad Cab, diesel, 5 speed standard trans. Would like to find a two speed rear-end. I heard there is an aftermarket two speed made in Ok., any one know who it is?
I have a 99 Dodge 1500 V8. The two tone paint has shadow lines in the grey bottom body contour just before the top color. True you can only see them in the right light, but when you pay this much for a truck you want it to look right. help with repairs will be appreciated. (yes I have talked to dealer, what lines?).
There is a posting in the DODGE RAM II topic that goes into great detail concerning differentials. Don't want to repeat it here because it's very lengthy. It's posting #118. Hope that helps...
1/2 ton trucks are not built for plowing. You cannot get a snow plow prep package. The weight of the system will over load the front suspension. They do make a lightweight plastic plow that I have seen on some, but I don't think they are even legal on a 1/2 ton.
Fisher has a LD Minute Mount plow that is specifically designed for light 1/2ton trucks. With the few driveways I do and being able to remove most of the weight, I would much rather go with a 1/2ton rather than a 3/4ton if it won't void the manufacturer (Dodge) warranty.
I live in Ontario where weather and salt are also problems. I went with stainless steel nerf bars as well as stainless steel wrap around brush guard / push bars. Sure they cost more, but they will last forever.
If you get chrome it will chip and corrode, cost of a re-chrome makes no sense.
If you get body matched, again the paint will chip and corrode, easier to sand down and re-paint, but still an expense.
You also need to make sure that you get good quality steps on the nerf bars.
Not sure whether you are looking new truck or existing, but I would seriously recommend rustproofing the underside if there is a lot of salt about. It ain't that expensive, adds life to the truck and $ to the resale value.
My dad has a 98 1 ton dually with the 24 valve diesl. Says it heats up to about 220 when cruising on an interstate at 80 miles an hour. Has anyone else had the same problem?
orange2, Your hot running diesel sounds like a ineffective fan clutch or a thermostat that doesn't open all the way. At first I was going to suggest a good radiator shop but on second thought doickle is is right. Take it to a Cummins shop. Rich
Hi! I own a '96 C1500. The heater core under the dash has starting producing a "knocking" sound. This happens when the truck has fully warmed up to running temp, and has been there for a few miles. And, it only happens around 1500-2000 rpm and city type driving. Does anyone have any idea what this could be and how to fix it? It's quite loud, and when you put a hand on the heater area under the dash you can actually feel the bump from the knocking.
Just bought a 99 F250 SC SD it has 14k miles. Was wondering about rear end I know its 4.10:1 numbers on it are 4L10 something or other does the L stand for limited slip?
I own a 99 Silverado LS 2500 HD pickup with an Auto transmission and Tow Haul mode. I have a locking differential, 3.73 rear axle, GVW of 8600 Lbs. It has the 6000 V8 engine. I tow a 7,000 pound travel trailer. My question is: Do I need to use tow-haul full time while trailering, or do I use it only on long grades and in heavy traffic? It seems to work well on the interstate in drive rather than tow-haul. Am I defeating the purpose by not using tow-haul full time? While towing this past summer in drive, my transmission fluid on a 90 degree day with A/C running never exceeded 185 degrees. My engine temp never went past 190 degrees. When I dropped my transmission into the tow haul mode, my Transmission temp went to 200 degrees and my engine temp remained the same.
Well, I am going this afternoon to sign the paperwork for ordering my new Ranger (YEAH!). I have decided on all the options I want save one and was wondering for some input on it.
I can't seem to decide if I want the normal 3.73 Axle Ratio of the 3.73 with Limited Slip. I am not going to be doing any off-roading. The reason I am thinking of getting it is for bad weather (snow, ice, rain slicked streets). Would this be beneficial? I live in the DC area so snow usually isn't that big a deal, but the roads can get slick in the winter time. If anyone can help me out before I go to the dealer to fill out the purchase order, I would really appreciate it.
Looking into getting F150 XL SB with an automatic V6. Would appreciate an honest objective review of this engine. How long has it been around, are there any problems? How is it in the reliability dept, as well as ease of maintenence? Adequate power ?
Most 5th wheels are too heavy to pull with a 1500 series truck. Double check your wieghts and include 300# per person in added gear in the 5th wheel. Don't push your tow limits to the max unless its very short distances. If you are close, consider the 2500. Your RV dealer may have insight on this issue.
Our 5th wheel is an ultralite. Made for smaller pickups. It's gross weight is 3400 Lbs. The RV dealer said the 1500 was actually a little large for the 5th wheel. What I wanted to know is whether or not hi performance packages are meant for towing? I have had a couple mechanics tell me they are not. But would like some comments on the subject that aren't biased, in selling a vehicle. Tk
Beginning to think about buying a new (or slightly used) truck, and--as a starting point--I'm researching the extended-cab Dodge Ram. I'm wondering if people have found that the addition of a fourth door results in more squeaks, rattles, flex, etc. than would be normally be expected in an extended-cab truck.
I just recently purchased a new Quad Cab with all the bells and whistles. Granted I don't even have 1000 miles on it yet but it seems tight. I haven't heard any noises to speak of, the 4th door is great! Hope that helps, enjoy whatever you buy!
Thanks a bunch for your help. I've been hearing very similar things from other people and, frankly, one of my greatest reservations about the truck has largely been cleared up.
I'm about to buy a 2000 long bed, supercab, 3/4 ton, diesel pickup with which to pull my 10,000# fifth wheel. I've looked extensively at both Ford and Chevy and have resolved most questions but a few remain. To wit: 1. I prefer an automatic (bad knees) but keep hearing anecdotal evidence that Dodge puts out a crummy 4 speed. That it's rated to pull 4,000# less than a Ford automatic seems to confirm this. Comments? 2. Ford offers dual alternators on its PS. Might they be worthwhile? 3. Will Ford's 3.73 or Dodge's 3.54 axle ratios work well with their respective diesel engines to satisfy my towing requirements or should I go with the 4.10 ratio? 4. Both brands offer "Heavy Service Suspension Packages" and "Camper Packages" that provide front and/or back HD springs and stabilizer bars. Should I consider these options or is this overkill and likely to make for an uncomfortable ride? Thanx!
I'AM LOOKING AT BUYING A NEW EXTENDED CAB,4X4, V-6 TACOMA, RANGER, DAKOTA OR FRONTIER.
WHEN I LOCK IN THE HUBS ON MY OLD 1983 F-150 (WITH LIMITED SLIP)ALL FOUR WHEELS PULL IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE HIGH OR LOW. WHAT DO I NEED TO LOOK FOR WITH THE ABOVE MENTIONED. I WOULD ALSO APPRECIATE COMMENTS COMPARING THE V-6 ENGINES AND OTHER COMMENTS ABOUT THE FOUR CHOICES.
I have a 1990 F250 with a 7.3 Diesel, a 4:10 rear end and the E04D (updated) transmission. It performs well here in California near sealevel but when towing a 9000 lb 5th wheel above 4000 ft it puts out tons of black smoke when climbing any type of hill. fuel milage drops to around 6 to 8 MPG (normal is 11 MPG towing). Local (Calif) Service Mgrs have no suggestions. I could put a Turbo on it but hate to spend the $3000 or so when the truck performs well locally. The truck does have a Barrometric Sensor but I have no info on what it controls. The Haynes Diesel Manual makes no mention of it. Any comments would be appreciated as I am about to leave on another trip.
Hmergler, I agree with cattleman1 on going with the limited slip. Having owned a ranger now since 1986(V-6 2.9liter, 4x4), a limited slip is worth its weight in gold, especially in snow!! My truck did not originally come with one, but after one winter of being helpless in Ill.(except in 4x4 mode), I ordered an aftermarket Auburn unit. However, the rangers are very light in the rear-end, so added weight is a MUST, plus some good all season or snow tires and you should have no problem. The 3:73 axle is a good all around ratio to have. That is what came with my truck and have no complaints. I am on my final days with my ranger, as I have a new 2000 ford Super Duty Extended-CAb V-10 4x4 due to arrive at the end of the month. Andya2, any 4x4 truck you order, I would get the limited slip option. In my opinion a 4x4 vehicle is pretty much worthless unless one is installed(as described above). Without any added traction assisting devices(limited slips or locking differentials) a 4x4 truck is really a 2-wheel drive truck when things get really messy, one front wheel turning, on back wheel turning. Look around at some of the other listings her in the pick-up section, more than likely there will be more information out there then you will ever need. Also, go to a local bookstore and read the latest issues of "OFF-ROAD", "FOUR-WHEELER", "FOUR-WHEEL & OFF-ROAD". These magazines review various trucks and give it to the reader straight up, the good, the bad, and even the ugly. My new truck will have a limited slip installed in the rear to help out with these Ill. winters. Plus with her family located in central Minnesota, holiday visits will most likely need all the traction we can get. hope that helps
The V-6 does alright if you never haul much whight,I have a 94 Dakota with the V-6 and I have have been happy with it 90% of the time. except when vacation time comes around and I load it up with a camper, boat, and all my gear. Then I always regret not going with the V-8 The gas milage is almost the same as with the V-6
Has anyone with a 1999 or 2000 Chevy or GMC pick'em up with 5.3L with high capacity air cleaner (option code K47) tried a K&N filter. Assuming there is one for that engine. If so, results please as well as any impact on the computer measuring a larger volume of air. Thanks.
Does anyone know what exactly the diff. is between 1/2, 3/4, and 3/4 HD trucks. I am looking for specifics such as axles, brakes, tranny, suspension etc... In particular with respect to the 2000 silverado line of trucks.
I have the 5.3 and I asked a dealer in Spokane last sat for the k&n for that ap. and he said that there is none listed as yet. One note the only differance between the heavy duty and the regular is the # of pleats and they are the same price at the chev dealer. 25.00 I find it very interesting that they charge you 25.00 extra when new.
I have a 90 Ford lwb, my question is , what can any one recommend for towing and hauling. Like shocks or leaf springs, or coolers? Oh yes , short term hauling of thosand miles or so. thank you
frankt1: I've been researching this question for months and all I've been able to come up with has been anecdotal but seems to point towards a definite weakness in the Dodge auto. For instance, I've heard from several sources that the Cummins is a great engine but has had to be detuned because the automatic can't handle its full potential torque output. Meanwhile, the Ford automatic is of rather recent design and can easily handle the output of the Powerstroke. I guess the fact that Dodge's own literature cites its auto's tow capabilities as 10,200# (3.54 rear end) and 12,200# (4.10 rear end) while Ford's auto will pull 13,800# (3.73 rear end)ought to tell a guy something. I guess I actually prefer the Dodge overall but will probably end up with the Ford because of the transmission.
Comments
My wife and I had that problem. Changing from summer to winter tires. Buy an extra set of rims or not. Use studs or not. Two wheels or four wheels and even more rims. Then we made a decision to live where we'll never see another snow tire as long as we live! Now we complain about how cold it is when the temperature is below 50.
Rich
Just ordered my 2000 Silverado LS 1/2 ton. Dealer strongly recommended the All Terain 265/75's with the Z85 firm ride suspension.
Drove several versions - and this was the smoothese combination. I have heard that if you plan to drive <60% of the time off-road or on rough terrain, stay away from the Z71. Regular highway / local driving will not give you a generally smooth ride on the 99-2000 z71 suspension.
Unfortunately, I ordered and drove only 4x4 so I cannot speak to the 2WD issue.
Take care and good luck
Have you or anyone you know used a baby seat (rear-facing) in the rear bench of an extended cab p/u? Can this be done?
My wife & I are considering switching from an SUV to a p/u & we're expecting our first child in early 2000.
Any particular model suggestions for a p/u would be welcome as well as any comments about a p/u & baby seats.
Thanks!
You can put a baby seat in a the back seat of a pickup, as long as the back seat is front facing. This is generally not a problem on full-size pickups, but pretty much limits you to only the Dodge Dakota in the compact segment. The Chevy S-10, Ford Ranger, Toyota Tacoma, and Nissan Frontier all have side-facing rear seats. You cannot safely put a baby seat in a side-facing rear seat.
HTH,
The Merg
The Baby Seat will fit fine in a Full Size Extend Cab Pick-Up Truck. It is a tight squeeze in a Compact Extend Cab but it will fit as long as your youngster's legs don't start growing like crazy. If you have problems with installing it, you can usually drop by a local Firestation and the guys there love to help and show people how to install them correctly. My Brother in Law is a EMT with a Firestation and he does this all of the time.
Big Al
I KNOW that you don't want to hear this but.... Having been there about 30 years ago, I would stay with the SUV. It isn't the infant seat issue but rather all the "other stuff" that seems to come along with the baby. I went from a Camaro to a full sized station wagon within 3 months after the bundle of joy arrived. The "other stuff" easily filled the space between tail gate and second seat. Don't worry, about the time that your youngest is about 15 or 16, you can start thinking about a truck again.
Rich
Phil, if you can afford it, get a truck! If you can't stick with the SUV or a wagon you and the family will not regret it ("family considerations" need it!!)
LSC
Also, does anyone know of any corrosion (rust)
problems with any particular kind of nerf bars? I
live in Kentucky and they salt the roads
when it snows. I know that certain metals corrode
when placed in contact with each other, especially
when exposed to salt water. Has anyone had a
problem with this? Does it risk voiding the
warranty?
Supercab 2.3l for a '99 or '00 Nissan Frontier
Desert Runner or Toyota Tacoma Prerunner with
the DOHC V-6. Any ideas? Don't want a
full size, have had them, been there, done
that (Refer to profile) Don't want no stinkin
S10 or Dakota, Mazda, Hombre...
Thanks - Amora (Babyboomer)
There is a posting in the DODGE RAM II topic that goes into great detail concerning differentials. Don't want to repeat it here because it's very lengthy. It's posting #118. Hope that helps...
Brett
I live in Ontario where weather and salt are also problems. I went with stainless steel nerf bars as well as stainless steel wrap around brush guard / push bars. Sure they cost more, but they will last forever.
If you get chrome it will chip and corrode, cost of a re-chrome makes no sense.
If you get body matched, again the paint will chip and corrode, easier to sand down and re-paint, but still an expense.
You also need to make sure that you get good quality steps on the nerf bars.
Not sure whether you are looking new truck or existing, but I would seriously recommend rustproofing the underside if there is a lot of salt about. It ain't that expensive, adds life to the truck and $ to the resale value.
Your hot running diesel sounds like a ineffective fan clutch or a thermostat that doesn't open all the way. At first I was going to suggest a good radiator shop but on second thought doickle is is right. Take it to a Cummins shop.
Rich
All thoughts are very welcome. Thanks
It seems to work well on the interstate in drive rather than tow-haul. Am I defeating the purpose by not using tow-haul full time? While towing this past summer in drive, my transmission fluid on a 90 degree day with A/C running never exceeded 185 degrees. My engine temp never went past 190 degrees. When I dropped my transmission into the tow haul mode, my Transmission temp went to 200 degrees and my engine temp remained the same.
paperwork for ordering my new Ranger (YEAH!). I
have decided on all the options I want save one and was wondering for some input on it.
I can't seem to decide if I want the normal 3.73
Axle Ratio of the 3.73 with Limited Slip. I am not going to be doing any off-roading. The reason I am thinking of getting it is for bad weather (snow, ice, rain slicked streets). Would this be beneficial? I live in the DC area so snow usually isn't that big a deal, but the roads can get slick in the winter time. If anyone can help me out before I go to the dealer to fill out the purchase order, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,
The Merg
good luck
Much Appreciated,
John
Tk
Thanks,
BP
I just recently purchased a new Quad Cab with all the bells and whistles. Granted I don't even have 1000 miles on it yet but it seems tight. I haven't heard any noises to speak of, the 4th door is great! Hope that helps, enjoy whatever you buy!
Bryan
Thanks a bunch for your help. I've been hearing very similar things from other people and, frankly, one of my greatest reservations about the truck has largely been cleared up.
Thanks again, and enjoy your trucks!
-Brian
fifth wheel. I've looked extensively at both Ford and Chevy and have resolved most questions but a few remain. To wit:
1. I prefer an automatic (bad knees) but keep hearing anecdotal evidence that Dodge puts out a crummy 4 speed. That it's rated to pull 4,000#
less than a Ford automatic seems to confirm this.
Comments?
2. Ford offers dual alternators on its PS. Might
they be worthwhile?
3. Will Ford's 3.73 or Dodge's 3.54 axle ratios work well with their respective diesel engines to
satisfy my towing requirements or should I go with
the 4.10 ratio?
4. Both brands offer "Heavy Service Suspension
Packages" and "Camper Packages" that provide front and/or back HD springs and stabilizer bars. Should I consider these options or is this overkill and likely to make for an uncomfortable ride? Thanx!
I'AM LOOKING AT BUYING A NEW EXTENDED CAB,4X4, V-6 TACOMA, RANGER, DAKOTA OR FRONTIER.
WHEN I LOCK IN THE HUBS ON MY OLD 1983 F-150 (WITH LIMITED SLIP)ALL FOUR WHEELS PULL IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE HIGH OR LOW. WHAT DO I NEED TO LOOK FOR WITH THE ABOVE MENTIONED. I WOULD ALSO APPRECIATE COMMENTS COMPARING THE V-6 ENGINES AND OTHER COMMENTS ABOUT THE FOUR CHOICES.
THANKS
ANDY
Andya2, any 4x4 truck you order, I would get the limited slip option. In my opinion a 4x4 vehicle is pretty much worthless unless one is installed(as described above). Without any added traction assisting devices(limited slips or locking differentials) a 4x4 truck is really a 2-wheel drive truck when things get really messy, one front wheel turning, on back wheel turning. Look around at some of the other listings her in the pick-up section, more than likely there will be more information out there then you will ever need. Also, go to a local bookstore and read the latest issues of "OFF-ROAD", "FOUR-WHEELER", "FOUR-WHEEL & OFF-ROAD". These magazines review various trucks and give it to the reader straight up, the good, the bad, and even the ugly.
My new truck will have a limited slip installed in the rear to help out with these Ill. winters. Plus with her family located in central Minnesota, holiday visits will most likely need all the traction we can get. hope that helps
looking for opinions about towing
We use a 95 1500 with our 5th wheel, mileage about 7 mpg, want better
any ideas?
Then I always regret not going with the V-8
The gas milage is almost the same as with the V-6
I wish some people would jump in and give us some information on were to look for failure rates on transmisisons.
Thanks
automatic is of rather recent design and can easily handle the output of the Powerstroke. I guess the fact that Dodge's own literature cites
its auto's tow capabilities as 10,200# (3.54 rear
end) and 12,200# (4.10 rear end) while Ford's auto will pull 13,800# (3.73 rear end)ought to tell a guy something. I guess I actually prefer the Dodge overall but will probably end up with the Ford because of the transmission.