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Miscellaneous Truck Questions

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  • RichRich Member Posts: 128
    igloomaster,
    My wife and I had that problem. Changing from summer to winter tires. Buy an extra set of rims or not. Use studs or not. Two wheels or four wheels and even more rims. Then we made a decision to live where we'll never see another snow tire as long as we live! Now we complain about how cold it is when the temperature is below 50. :)
    Rich
  • grizzly1grizzly1 Member Posts: 111
    Rich- I just read your posting. Where is it you live, that it feels cool below 50. Sounds good.
  • shamptonshampton Member Posts: 53
    ChevDave -

    Just ordered my 2000 Silverado LS 1/2 ton. Dealer strongly recommended the All Terain 265/75's with the Z85 firm ride suspension.

    Drove several versions - and this was the smoothese combination. I have heard that if you plan to drive <60% of the time off-road or on rough terrain, stay away from the Z71. Regular highway / local driving will not give you a generally smooth ride on the 99-2000 z71 suspension.

    Unfortunately, I ordered and drove only 4x4 so I cannot speak to the 2WD issue.

    Take care and good luck
  • downshiftphildownshiftphil Member Posts: 1
    Hi All:

    Have you or anyone you know used a baby seat (rear-facing) in the rear bench of an extended cab p/u? Can this be done?

    My wife & I are considering switching from an SUV to a p/u & we're expecting our first child in early 2000.

    Any particular model suggestions for a p/u would be welcome as well as any comments about a p/u & baby seats.

    Thanks!
  • hmerglerhmergler Member Posts: 85
    Phil:

    You can put a baby seat in a the back seat of a pickup, as long as the back seat is front facing. This is generally not a problem on full-size pickups, but pretty much limits you to only the Dodge Dakota in the compact segment. The Chevy S-10, Ford Ranger, Toyota Tacoma, and Nissan Frontier all have side-facing rear seats. You cannot safely put a baby seat in a side-facing rear seat.

    HTH,
    The Merg
  • mkatiemkatie Member Posts: 3
    Phil,

    The Baby Seat will fit fine in a Full Size Extend Cab Pick-Up Truck. It is a tight squeeze in a Compact Extend Cab but it will fit as long as your youngster's legs don't start growing like crazy. If you have problems with installing it, you can usually drop by a local Firestation and the guys there love to help and show people how to install them correctly. My Brother in Law is a EMT with a Firestation and he does this all of the time.

    Big Al
  • RichRich Member Posts: 128
    downshiftphil,
    I KNOW that you don't want to hear this but.... Having been there about 30 years ago, I would stay with the SUV. It isn't the infant seat issue but rather all the "other stuff" that seems to come along with the baby. I went from a Camaro to a full sized station wagon within 3 months after the bundle of joy arrived. The "other stuff" easily filled the space between tail gate and second seat. Don't worry, about the time that your youngest is about 15 or 16, you can start thinking about a truck again. :)
    Rich
  • hohohoho Member Posts: 64
    I went from a small 4 banger Pontiac after geting married. I gave up my 4x4 for "Family Considerations". I cried all the way to the dealership. But it was the right thing to do, so it was done. Man don't you hate it when that happens!

    Phil, if you can afford it, get a truck! If you can't stick with the SUV or a wagon you and the family will not regret it ("family considerations" need it!!)

    LSC
  • tuckyboy1tuckyboy1 Member Posts: 36
    Anyone have an specific recos on nerf bars? I was thinking of stainless steel, but advice is appreciated.

    Also, does anyone know of any corrosion (rust)
    problems with any particular kind of nerf bars? I
    live in Kentucky and they salt the roads
    when it snows. I know that certain metals corrode
    when placed in contact with each other, especially
    when exposed to salt water. Has anyone had a
    problem with this? Does it risk voiding the
    warranty?
  • amoraamora Member Posts: 204
    Would like to replace my guttless '95 Ranger XLT
    Supercab 2.3l for a '99 or '00 Nissan Frontier
    Desert Runner or Toyota Tacoma Prerunner with
    the DOHC V-6. Any ideas? Don't want a
    full size, have had them, been there, done
    that (Refer to profile) Don't want no stinkin
    S10 or Dakota, Mazda, Hombre...

    Thanks - Amora (Babyboomer)
  • doickledoickle Member Posts: 12
    Have a 1999 Dodge, 3500 Quad Cab, diesel, 5 speed standard trans. Would like to find a two speed rear-end. I heard there is an aftermarket two speed made in Ok., any one know who it is?
  • bertm1bertm1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Dodge 1500 V8. The two tone paint has shadow lines in the grey bottom body contour just before the top color. True you can only see them in the right light, but when you pay this much for a truck you want it to look right. help with repairs will be appreciated. (yes I have talked to dealer, what lines?).
  • rfs2rfs2 Member Posts: 1
    Could someone explain the difference between the limited slip and the locking rear axle. Also pro's and con's of each would be helpful.
  • brett039brett039 Member Posts: 56
    rfs2,

    There is a posting in the DODGE RAM II topic that goes into great detail concerning differentials. Don't want to repeat it here because it's very lengthy. It's posting #118. Hope that helps...

    Brett
  • kdurkkdurk Member Posts: 4
    What, if any, manufacturers warranty 1/2ton extended cab pickups with plows on them and will a 1/2ton hold up with a plow on it.
  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    1/2 ton trucks are not built for plowing. You cannot get a snow plow prep package. The weight of the system will over load the front suspension. They do make a lightweight plastic plow that I have seen on some, but I don't think they are even legal on a 1/2 ton.
  • kdurkkdurk Member Posts: 4
    Fisher has a LD Minute Mount plow that is specifically designed for light 1/2ton trucks. With the few driveways I do and being able to remove most of the weight, I would much rather go with a 1/2ton rather than a 3/4ton if it won't void the manufacturer (Dodge) warranty.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    tuckyboy1,

    I live in Ontario where weather and salt are also problems. I went with stainless steel nerf bars as well as stainless steel wrap around brush guard / push bars. Sure they cost more, but they will last forever.

    If you get chrome it will chip and corrode, cost of a re-chrome makes no sense.

    If you get body matched, again the paint will chip and corrode, easier to sand down and re-paint, but still an expense.

    You also need to make sure that you get good quality steps on the nerf bars.

    Not sure whether you are looking new truck or existing, but I would seriously recommend rustproofing the underside if there is a lot of salt about. It ain't that expensive, adds life to the truck and $ to the resale value.
  • orange2orange2 Member Posts: 1
    My dad has a 98 1 ton dually with the 24 valve diesl. Says it heats up to about 220 when cruising on an interstate at 80 miles an hour. Has anyone else had the same problem?
  • doickledoickle Member Posts: 12
    I'd be taking that dually into Cummings and have it checked out. 220 deg is to hot. My self I wouldn't trust a Dodge Dealer to work on it.
  • RichRich Member Posts: 128
    orange2,
    Your hot running diesel sounds like a ineffective fan clutch or a thermostat that doesn't open all the way. At first I was going to suggest a good radiator shop but on second thought doickle is is right. Take it to a Cummins shop.
    Rich
  • nargnarg Member Posts: 112
    Hi! I own a '96 C1500. The heater core under the dash has starting producing a "knocking" sound. This happens when the truck has fully warmed up to running temp, and has been there for a few miles. And, it only happens around 1500-2000 rpm and city type driving. Does anyone have any idea what this could be and how to fix it? It's quite loud, and when you put a hand on the heater area under the dash you can actually feel the bump from the knocking.
  • n2carzn2carz Member Posts: 1
    On a Ford F-350, crew cab, is the standard bed an eight foot or a six foot?
  • tddtdd Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 99 F250 SC SD it has 14k miles. Was wondering about rear end I know its 4.10:1 numbers on it are 4L10 something or other does the L stand for limited slip?
  • mascaro1mascaro1 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a used 97 ford ranger this year. I love it, but I noticed that the frame & undercarriage are very rusty. Should I be concerned?

    All thoughts are very welcome. Thanks
  • danjandanjan Member Posts: 15
    I own a 99 Silverado LS 2500 HD pickup with an Auto transmission and Tow Haul mode. I have a locking differential, 3.73 rear axle, GVW of 8600 Lbs. It has the 6000 V8 engine. I tow a 7,000 pound travel trailer. My question is: Do I need to use tow-haul full time while trailering, or do I use it only on long grades and in heavy traffic?
    It seems to work well on the interstate in drive rather than tow-haul. Am I defeating the purpose by not using tow-haul full time? While towing this past summer in drive, my transmission fluid on a 90 degree day with A/C running never exceeded 185 degrees. My engine temp never went past 190 degrees. When I dropped my transmission into the tow haul mode, my Transmission temp went to 200 degrees and my engine temp remained the same.
  • thrustonthruston Member Posts: 2
    How much would an 84 Sierra with 138000 miles in good condition be worth?
  • tomf6tomf6 Member Posts: 1
    i owe a 1999 ford f-150 my auto-light will not turn off wend the system is on what do i do thank
  • hmerglerhmergler Member Posts: 85
    Well, I am going this afternoon to sign the
    paperwork for ordering my new Ranger (YEAH!). I
    have decided on all the options I want save one and was wondering for some input on it.

    I can't seem to decide if I want the normal 3.73
    Axle Ratio of the 3.73 with Limited Slip. I am not going to be doing any off-roading. The reason I am thinking of getting it is for bad weather (snow, ice, rain slicked streets). Would this be beneficial? I live in the DC area so snow usually isn't that big a deal, but the roads can get slick in the winter time. If anyone can help me out before I go to the dealer to fill out the purchase order, I would really appreciate it.

    Thanks,
    The Merg
  • cattleman1cattleman1 Member Posts: 3
    Assume you are going with 2 wheel drive. I would go with the limited slip. The cost is not much more and it would help you in foul weather.
    good luck
  • john217john217 Member Posts: 10
    Looking into getting F150 XL SB with an automatic V6. Would appreciate an honest objective review of this engine. How long has it been around, are there any problems? How is it in the reliability dept, as well as ease of maintenence? Adequate power ?

    Much Appreciated,
    John
  • tiger26tiger26 Member Posts: 2
    A salesman recommended a hi performance package on a 1500 V-8 Magnum pickup for pulling our 5th wheel? What advice does any one have on this subject?
  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    Most 5th wheels are too heavy to pull with a 1500 series truck. Double check your wieghts and include 300# per person in added gear in the 5th wheel. Don't push your tow limits to the max unless its very short distances. If you are close, consider the 2500. Your RV dealer may have insight on this issue.
  • tiger26tiger26 Member Posts: 2
    Our 5th wheel is an ultralite. Made for smaller pickups. It's gross weight is 3400 Lbs. The RV dealer said the 1500 was actually a little large for the 5th wheel. What I wanted to know is whether or not hi performance packages are meant for towing? I have had a couple mechanics tell me they are not. But would like some comments on the subject that aren't biased, in selling a vehicle.
    Tk
  • pechorinpechorin Member Posts: 4
    Beginning to think about buying a new (or slightly used) truck, and--as a starting point--I'm researching the extended-cab Dodge Ram. I'm wondering if people have found that the addition of a fourth door results in more squeaks, rattles, flex, etc. than would be normally be expected in an extended-cab truck.

    Thanks,
    BP
  • durlingdurling Member Posts: 5
    Pechorin,

    I just recently purchased a new Quad Cab with all the bells and whistles. Granted I don't even have 1000 miles on it yet but it seems tight. I haven't heard any noises to speak of, the 4th door is great! Hope that helps, enjoy whatever you buy!

    Bryan
  • pechorinpechorin Member Posts: 4
    Durling and dhd79413:

    Thanks a bunch for your help. I've been hearing very similar things from other people and, frankly, one of my greatest reservations about the truck has largely been cleared up.

    Thanks again, and enjoy your trucks!

    -Brian
  • trambitistrambitis Member Posts: 21
    I'm about to buy a 2000 long bed, supercab, 3/4 ton, diesel pickup with which to pull my 10,000#
    fifth wheel. I've looked extensively at both Ford and Chevy and have resolved most questions but a few remain. To wit:
    1. I prefer an automatic (bad knees) but keep hearing anecdotal evidence that Dodge puts out a crummy 4 speed. That it's rated to pull 4,000#
    less than a Ford automatic seems to confirm this.
    Comments?
    2. Ford offers dual alternators on its PS. Might
    they be worthwhile?
    3. Will Ford's 3.73 or Dodge's 3.54 axle ratios work well with their respective diesel engines to
    satisfy my towing requirements or should I go with
    the 4.10 ratio?
    4. Both brands offer "Heavy Service Suspension
    Packages" and "Camper Packages" that provide front and/or back HD springs and stabilizer bars. Should I consider these options or is this overkill and likely to make for an uncomfortable ride? Thanx!
  • andya2andya2 Member Posts: 1
    HELP OUT AN OLD MAN NEW TO THIS COMPUTER BUSINESS

    I'AM LOOKING AT BUYING A NEW EXTENDED CAB,4X4, V-6 TACOMA, RANGER, DAKOTA OR FRONTIER.

    WHEN I LOCK IN THE HUBS ON MY OLD 1983 F-150 (WITH LIMITED SLIP)ALL FOUR WHEELS PULL IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE HIGH OR LOW. WHAT DO I NEED TO LOOK FOR WITH THE ABOVE MENTIONED. I WOULD ALSO APPRECIATE COMMENTS COMPARING THE V-6 ENGINES AND OTHER COMMENTS ABOUT THE FOUR CHOICES.

    THANKS
    ANDY
  • 76driver76driver Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 F250 with a 7.3 Diesel, a 4:10 rear end and the E04D (updated) transmission. It performs well here in California near sealevel but when towing a 9000 lb 5th wheel above 4000 ft it puts out tons of black smoke when climbing any type of hill. fuel milage drops to around 6 to 8 MPG (normal is 11 MPG towing). Local (Calif) Service Mgrs have no suggestions. I could put a Turbo on it but hate to spend the $3000 or so when the truck performs well locally. The truck does have a Barrometric Sensor but I have no info on what it controls. The Haynes Diesel Manual makes no mention of it. Any comments would be appreciated as I am about to leave on another trip.
  • gossamargossamar Member Posts: 106
    Hmergler, I agree with cattleman1 on going with the limited slip. Having owned a ranger now since 1986(V-6 2.9liter, 4x4), a limited slip is worth its weight in gold, especially in snow!! My truck did not originally come with one, but after one winter of being helpless in Ill.(except in 4x4 mode), I ordered an aftermarket Auburn unit. However, the rangers are very light in the rear-end, so added weight is a MUST, plus some good all season or snow tires and you should have no problem. The 3:73 axle is a good all around ratio to have. That is what came with my truck and have no complaints. I am on my final days with my ranger, as I have a new 2000 ford Super Duty Extended-CAb V-10 4x4 due to arrive at the end of the month.
    Andya2, any 4x4 truck you order, I would get the limited slip option. In my opinion a 4x4 vehicle is pretty much worthless unless one is installed(as described above). Without any added traction assisting devices(limited slips or locking differentials) a 4x4 truck is really a 2-wheel drive truck when things get really messy, one front wheel turning, on back wheel turning. Look around at some of the other listings her in the pick-up section, more than likely there will be more information out there then you will ever need. Also, go to a local bookstore and read the latest issues of "OFF-ROAD", "FOUR-WHEELER", "FOUR-WHEEL & OFF-ROAD". These magazines review various trucks and give it to the reader straight up, the good, the bad, and even the ugly.
    My new truck will have a limited slip installed in the rear to help out with these Ill. winters. Plus with her family located in central Minnesota, holiday visits will most likely need all the traction we can get. hope that helps
  • diekmanbdiekmanb Member Posts: 1
    looking at 2000 Sierra 2500
    looking for opinions about towing
    We use a 95 1500 with our 5th wheel, mileage about 7 mpg, want better
    any ideas?
  • jraskejraske Member Posts: 131
    The V-6 does alright if you never haul much whight,I have a 94 Dakota with the V-6 and I have have been happy with it 90% of the time. except when vacation time comes around and I load it up with a camper, boat, and all my gear.
    Then I always regret not going with the V-8
    The gas milage is almost the same as with the V-6
  • katsohiskatsohis Member Posts: 83
    PERSONALY I WOULD BUY THE TACOMA WITH THE V-6,IVE HAD ONE FOR 3 YEARS NOW AND I'M NOW GETTING A 2000 MODEL WITH THE TRD OPTION
  • frankt1frankt1 Member Posts: 4
    trambitis, Did anyone respond to your questions on towing a heavey fiftwheel trailer with a Dodge or Ford Diesel with automatic transmission?

    I wish some people would jump in and give us some information on were to look for failure rates on transmisisons.
  • petriheilpetriheil Member Posts: 19
    Has anyone with a 1999 or 2000 Chevy or GMC pick'em up with 5.3L with high capacity air cleaner (option code K47) tried a K&N filter. Assuming there is one for that engine. If so, results please as well as any impact on the computer measuring a larger volume of air. Thanks.
  • klonowskiklonowski Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know what exactly the diff. is between 1/2, 3/4, and 3/4 HD trucks. I am looking for specifics such as axles, brakes, tranny, suspension etc... In particular with respect to the 2000 silverado line of trucks.

    Thanks
  • lwittorflwittorf Member Posts: 96
    I have the 5.3 and I asked a dealer in Spokane last sat for the k&n for that ap. and he said that there is none listed as yet. One note the only differance between the heavy duty and the regular is the # of pleats and they are the same price at the chev dealer. 25.00 I find it very interesting that they charge you 25.00 extra when new.
  • pyorkpyork Member Posts: 1
    I have a 90 Ford lwb, my question is , what can any one recommend for towing and hauling. Like shocks or leaf springs, or coolers? Oh yes , short term hauling of thosand miles or so. thank you
  • trambitistrambitis Member Posts: 21
    frankt1: I've been researching this question for months and all I've been able to come up with has been anecdotal but seems to point towards a definite weakness in the Dodge auto. For instance, I've heard from several sources that the Cummins is a great engine but has had to be detuned because the automatic can't handle its full potential torque output. Meanwhile, the Ford
    automatic is of rather recent design and can easily handle the output of the Powerstroke. I guess the fact that Dodge's own literature cites
    its auto's tow capabilities as 10,200# (3.54 rear
    end) and 12,200# (4.10 rear end) while Ford's auto will pull 13,800# (3.73 rear end)ought to tell a guy something. I guess I actually prefer the Dodge overall but will probably end up with the Ford because of the transmission.
This discussion has been closed.