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Chevy/GMC Owners

tlucyktlucyk Posts: 5
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
This would be a great place to tell you all about my 97 S10 SS. Love
it! Love it!! Love it!!! Comes with the L35 180 hp vortec V6 hooked
up to a 4 spd auto w/OD. I will soon be posting a picture of my SS at
http://www.why.net/users/tlucyk. Check it out...
«13456711

Comments

  • brusbrus Posts: 2
    Well tlucyk...I got ya beat I just bought a 1998 GMC extended cab V8. My first full-sized truck, and my first new one!
    Hope I love it as much as you love yours.
    Since no one else is posting here, and I have a GMC......I guess this is where I belong from now on.
    What is it about your truck that you like so much?
  • It's a Chevy... just kidding. Its the look and feel of it. Rides like a truck, but handles like a sports car (it came with the stiffer suspension). I bought it loaded, so I enjoy all the added luxuries. On top of that, my experience with the dealer ship was great! The truck has given me no problems (mind you, I have only put on 3K in 6 months). Finally, theres something about driving down the open road humming the chevy song... "like a rock..." I imagine you can well understand. Love Chevy! Love GMC!!
  • I gave him my down payment
    I was a little short
    He smiled and said, "No problem"
    And then he gave a snort.
    "Your payments will be higher."
    My heart began to sink...

    Like a rock.


    I got the payment coupons
    they came in Friday's mail
    the figures jumped out at me
    and bit me in the tail
    my payments nearly doubled
    my heart, it felt derailed...

    Like a rock.

    (Chorus)

    Like a rock...
    This truck makes me feel alive!
    Like a rock...
    But I can't afford to drive!
    Like a rock...
    Aauurrgghhhhh!!
    Like a rock!

    (There's always something to spoil a good thing, isn't there?)

    Congratulations to both of you... hope the payments are small and the pride of ownership LARGE!
  • 18,500 US dollars MSRP for a fully loaded S-10 with CD player to boot, for a small monthly payment of 262/mth. That included 2000 down. Its the quality and end value in 3 yrs on my smart buy that made it happen.

    What kind of truck do you recommend motormouth?

    Later...
  • That's a loaded question, given brand-name loyalties.

    The fact is, I don't know of a BAD truck out there. While that may sound like I'm trying to be diplomatic (and, believe me, I AM!), I honestly believe that the fierce competition between domestic and foreign manufacturers has resulted in excellent products from all.

    Ok, to answer your question a BIT more directly, the kind of truck I recommend is one that APPEALS to the buyer in both appearance as well as functionality at a reasonable price. If that means "Ford" to one person, that's fine. If it means "Chevy" to another, that's ok too.

    For me... that would mean Dodge Ram for a full size, or a Dakota if we're talking smaller.

    As for my "Like A Rock" spoof, I was simply responding to your note... I love Bob Seger and I like his song, but I was just having a little fun with it. Hope you didn't take it too seriously.
  • I just did the math.

    $262 per month x 36 months (3 years) = $9,432.

    Ok, now you said you put $2,000 down. Even assuming you had a NO INTEREST loan, you're still only accounting for $11,432... on a vehicle you say lists at $18,500?

    Where does the other $7,000 come into play? Is this part of what you were describing as your "Smart Buy?"

    Can you elaborate on what that means and how that worked? Thanks.
  • I'm looking for used Z-71, 1994 extended cab, 4x4 prices on Edmund's: how come the Chevy listing/Used doesn't offer it?
  • Isn't the Z-71 a performance package applied to one of their standard pick-ups? You know, much in the way that the Z-28 Camaro was/is a Camaro with performance based modifications to the chassis?

    If so, try looking under the actual model pickup that the Z-71 is based on. You'll have to look up the options that go into that model.

    But when you say you're looking for one, do you mean to purchase? Check with "Auto-By-Tel" since they can help you locate used vehicles as well as new ones. Good luck!
  • mitchmitch Posts: 1
    I am trying to replace the motor to my power windows in my 1985 3/4 ton Chevy pickup. I removed the enter door panel, but I have not located the motor. Can anyone help me.
    mitch
  • Uh, Mitch? Maybe that's why it's not working! ;-)

    Just kidding, of course. Hopefully, someone here can tell you where the motor is mounted.

    However, in case no one does, you might want to check with Chilton Repair Manuals. They may have a manual for your truck. Check with your local Chevy dealer or contact Chilton directly via the link I placed in this note. Good luck (I hope the window is currently UP)!
  • I just found out my 1995 gmc has a recall. why wasn't i notified? It is for steering shaft loosening. I have a noise when I go over bumps.Also my clutch is making noise. The service manager said it was the universals. I understand from nhtsa there is a service bulletin out on this. My question is how can i get these fixed and not feel ,as i have in the past, ignored and appeased with fixing something trivial.I for once out of 12 visits to 4 dealerships would like things done right and not told there is nothing wrong. Also, can i Bring my gmc to a chevy dealer
  • I guess I need some coaching on how to handle service managers. If im not satisfied the next step is the owner i guess. Up to this point I have had no respect for gmc's policy on warrenty work. the one time I called the hot line for a lockout I stayed on hold at 4 pm est for a half an hour and then hung up. Could someone help me deal with them and restore my faith in service thanks
  • You don't mention if you are the original owner of your GMC truck.

    Often, notices of recalls don't find their way from the first owner to the next.

    If you are NOT the first owner, you need to notify GM of this fact. Your dealer should help you there.

    Second, if you ARE the original owner, it sounds like your dealer may not have properly processed your documents so that GM had you in their database. In either case, go to your GM dealer to resolve this.

    As far as recalls are concerned, MOST GM dealers should be able to enter your VIN into their database which is connected directly to GM and, in doing so, determine which recalls HAVE been performed, and which ones have NOT.

    You can also easily look up your make and model to see what recalls have been issued while here at Edmunds.com by selecting "USED VEHICLES" and looking up your specific make year and model. There will be a hot link for recalls if necessary.

    Good luck.
  • I own a 93 K1500 Silverado with 5.7 V-8. the vent hose for the front differential spews frothy gear lube in the engine compartment firewall area during long runs in hot weather. the vent cap seems to work correctly, but it leaks out anyway. Is this normal. Service dealers say they don't know what to do. Ive had the pumpkin checked several times, but the fluid is full. But the little bit that leaks out makes for a mess under the hood. I know the right lube is in there and that it is not overfilled. It only does this on long runs and NOT in 4WD. Also, does anyone's 4X4 Chevy whine when in 4WD? Mine does slightly, but there are no jerks or shutters to indicate problems. HELLLPPPPPP?
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Lets see how good is motormouth? I have a 1997 Z71 pickup which blows rear end seals constantly. The dealer replaced the seals (5 times) bearings, drive shaft, brakes ...etc. The went tube is clear.

    Stephen
  • Hey, that rings a bell. I have a 1998 Z71 that leaked fluid after I had the GM recommended (for locking differentials) fluid replacement. (It's kinda silly they don't have a drain plug. You have to remove the differential cover). When I took it back to the servicing dealership, they re-sealed the cover using a reddish-orange goop and that seemed to fix it.

    I think if your vent tube is clear, you're not blowing out anything. If your leaking around the cover it's probably a bad sealant or bent cover.
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Thanks but mine leaks at the seals (by the breaks) not at the cover plate. There is a seal between the drive shaft and the rear end housing, on my truck it last about 1K miles. I am still waiting for motormouth to answer.
  • mikesmikes Posts: 7
    I have a 1997 Chevy P/U 4WD. The steering feels to "easy" to steer. Causes road drift, and loss of feel of road. Any one else experience this?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Hey, Mikes
    '97 is the first year for the electronically controlled power steering. My '96 is just the opposite. The steering is a little hard when parking and making other low speed moves, but on the highway it feels about right. I did have to have the front end aligned when the truck was new. BY THE WAY... Try to have your first front end alignment done under warranty. Until the factory alignment slugs are knocked out, your alignment will run over $100.00. I learned this the hard way on my '94.

    Jim
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I have an '89 S10 with 175K and NO PROBLEMS. Go figure. My '97 K1500 already had more problems than my S10.
  • I'm no mechanical expert on this, just a discussion moderator, but it sounds like you may have some warpage in your housing. Either that or the repair place isn't doing the job right.

    Anyone else have any ideas on how to help Stevek track down his problem?
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    You may be right, last week another dealer replaced the entire rear differential housing. They said when the seals were put in, they got out of round because of the housing. This can not be seen with the naked eye, but Chevy technical assistance indicated it happened before.

    I just dont't understand why the other dealer kept replacing the same parts ove and over (5 times) again when it did not solve the problem.

    I am waiting now see if it will leak again. Chevy gave me an extended warranty 5 yrs 60K and a complete break job for nothing.
  • truck96truck96 Posts: 22
    How about the rattling noise at startup that is scaring me with fear this is a 96 chevy truck with a 350 engine
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Well, I hate to tell you guys this, but startup clatter is very common on late model 5.7 engines. A friend of mine has had the crank and bearings replaced twice under warranty and the noise is still there. Lasts about one or two seconds, then goes away. Mine does it also, and of course the dealers say this is normal. All I can say is use good oil, regular changes, and don't race the engine on cold starts.

    Jim
  • I'm considering the purchase of a '98 K-1500 with 6.5 L diesel. I anyone familiar with the reliability of these chevy engins?
  • deiseldeisel Posts: 16
    why yes I am very familiar with the 6.5 liter
    deisel I know more people who have traded them in
    because of sooooooo..... many problems its not
    funny at all. I myself am one I just traded to
    a dodge cummins and I love it! Sorry chevy owners
    I have always had a chevy truck (but not anymore)
    to say something good though I had a great s-10
    that I got 200,000 miles out of the engine and the
    clutch. My father was also a chevy dealer for
    over 30 years and he himself got very fed up with
    GM. I have a freind who just sued chevy for a new
    deisel truck and she is calling the ford dealer to
    pick it up off the lot for a trade in on the power-stroke. If you still want a chevy deisel
    there is a used 95 silverado that has only 52,000
    miles on it with 2 new fuel injector pumps a new
    oil pressure switch, glow plugs, glow plug switch,
    brake relay switch, computor, and computor chip,
    not to mention a new alternater "problem not diognosed" and 2 new bateries. but....... its
    your call.
  • beltaobeltao Posts: 9
    I was planning to install a Duraliner on my 98 Sonoma when I dicovered that my warranty could be voided if there is any damage underneath the bedliner ( corrosion/rust/rattling) (P.9).
    Any info about bedliners: pro/con will be greatly appreciated.
  • wiltwilt Posts: 2
    WOW (bad report on 6.5) any other horror stories out there. I drive an old 6.2 and have had my problems, now looking for newer G.M 4- wh.dr.any good- bad news on the VORTEC engine? Need to pull trailer and wonder about power.Also gas milage?
  • Hi everyone. I bought a 1998 Z71 extended cab on
    12/23/97. Since then, the vehicle has been in the
    shop five times (starting 12/30/98) for the same 'problem'. The problem- bad oxygen sensors, says the dealer. Well, this vehicle has stalled out three times on the interstate and I have driven it in twice- always with the same problem- it begins to run really badly, loses power, then it simply quits. I live in Indiana, and was in Pennsylvania on vacation when all this occured. Now, almost two weeks later, the vehicle is still in Pennsylvania, and I have not heard anything from the dealer (H&H Chevrolet in Shippensburg, PA) since 1/7/98. Needless to say, I am very disappointed by the lack of Chevrolet's customer service. Chevrolet's 800 line says to 'work with the dealer' and the dealer says to 'call the 800 number'.
    Anyone else had any problems like mine?
    -Mike Schanke
    [email protected]
    1/12/98
  • dburrowdburrow Posts: 11
    I would absolutely stay away from ANY drop-in bedliner on a new truck. Duraliner is probably the best, and most expensive. However, I have pictures at my office of trucks we have worked on where we had to remove a plastic bedliner for one reason or another, and the damage done would blow your mind. I sell drop-in bedliners, but i don't try to tell people that they protect the truck beds, other than maybe from dents. Bedliners are a used car dealers best friend, and all they are good for is to cover scratches. I would recommend a spray-in - there are lots of good ones out there. E-mail me at [email protected] and I will try to help you find a dealer in your area.
  • N/AN/A Posts: 11
    I HAVE A 96 C 1500 TRUCK 350 AUTOMATIC WITH 3.42 GEARS IT HAS TRAILER PACKAGE AND LIMITED SLIP REAREND WILL I GET BETTER FUEL MILEAGE IF I PUT 31-10.50-15 TIRES ON IN PLACE OF THE STOCK ONE TO LOWER RPMS DURING HIGHWAY DRIVING
  • N/AN/A Posts: 11
    I have a 97 Chevy K1500 and used a spray on bedliner called ZOLOTON (or simething like that) and it works very well. Its is about $100 of materials if you spray it yourself.
  • pabpab Posts: 2
    I'm interested in buying a well kept stock 69-72 chevy C-10 2WD auto. Any comments/warnings/recommendations on these vehicles?
  • Question: Is the problem with bedliners that the damage you found was to the bedliner itself, or the truck bed? My concern is that the bedliner would trap moisture between it and the bed of the truck, hastening the rust (and demise) of the bed itself. Any truth to that theory? I used to have a Mazda truck and there was plenty of space for water to get into (and under) the bedliner. I never felt comfortable about that, so I got rid of it and got a cap for it. The truck was suddenly usable for many more projects by the way...
  • I own a 1993 Chevy K1500 with a 4.3L V6 with only 42000 miles on it. I have had many problems with this truck. Both front and back seals leaking, oxygen sensor going bad, shock-absorbers going bad. All of these problems have been corrected except one. This truck burns 3/4 of quart of oil every 1000 miles, there no appeareance of oil leaks on the engine block and its not blowing blue smoke out the back. I have had the truck into the dealership and they say the 3/4 of quart is within GM specifications. Too me 3/4 is a little excessive. Does anybody have the same problem and is there any to correct this problem?
  • dburrowdburrow Posts: 11
    Motormouth-
    Actually, the damage was done to the truck bed.
  • dburrowdburrow Posts: 11
    Motormouth-
    BTW-I don't know about water staying under a bedliner, but I have found nails, wood chips, and assorted trash under a bedliner, not to mention LOTS of dirt, which tends to act as an abrasive. The bedliner itself will rub the paint off, regardless of any corporate propaganda you might hear.
    You know, if any bedliner reps read this, they will probably be looking for me at the next SEMA show...
  • Yeah, but if they offer you a skiing trip, just say no!

    How do the spray-in bedliners compare price-wise?
    All things considered, I'd rather go with that than the bedliners.
  • beltaobeltao Posts: 9
    I would think that a rubber-mat placed between the bed and the liner would help minimize any rubbing. Also I have some reservations about spray-in bedliners because:

    1. they are permanent and cannot be removed if you change your mind.
    2. they are expensive: $400 +
    3. we don't know how long they will hold without
    chipping, cracking, peeling etc...
  • iamjtbiamjtb Posts: 1
    I am working on a deal to buy a new '97 Chevy extended cab short bed truck. The dealer has offered invoice and says he'll make his money on the holdback. I've heard that GM is offering dealers rebates on 1997's to help them get rid of them. Has anyone heard about this?
  • beltaobeltao Posts: 9
    Current Rebates on 1997 GM trucks:

    4 cyl. $2,000
    6 cyl. $1,500
  • petespetes Posts: 15
    CAN ANYONE GIVE ME ANY INFORMATION ON CHEVY S10 PICKUPS WITH THE 5 SPEED TRANSMISSION AND 4 CYLINDER ENGINE (1996 OR LATE). INFORMATION LIKE...IS THIS A RELIABLE TRUCK, DOES THIS DRIVE TRAIN COMBINATION GIVE ANYONE ANY PROBLEMS, HOW DOES THIS VEHICLE COMPARE WITH THE FORD RANGER.

    I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP THAT YOU CAN GIVE.

    THANKS...PETES
  • Don't buy from Cooper Chevrolet in Anniston Alabama. They are a bunch of CROOKS!!!
  • I own a 1997 Chevy s-10 truck. So far Petes it's been a good truck. It's a 4 cylinder 5 speed manual. It rides pretty good for a truck. I pull my 18ft ski boat with pretty good ease, even out of the boat ramp, so it has some power even if it's only a 4 cylinder. If I was in the market for a truck now, I would get a Dodge RAM full size if price permitted!!!!
  • HL9JKHL9JK Posts: 1
    Any HF operators using a 1995 GMC 6.5 diesel for HF mobile operation. I get a vehicle generated receiver heterodyne that runs up and down in frequency, primarily increasing in frequency. 40 Meter CW transmission flashes the Anti Lock Brake instrument panel warning light and causes the speedometer needle to swing clockwise. I suspect the PCM. How do I locate the PCM so I can shield/bypass it?
  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    I placed a note in the Miscellaneous Truck Questions section in regards to Gear/Axle ratio differences. I own a 1997 Chev. C-1500 Silverado Extended Cab. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • I'm looking into buying a '95-'96 S-10 V-6 auto. Are these reliable trucks? I've read numerous reports with conflicting answers. I'm also interested in lowering the truck 3"/4"; how does a lowered truck ride. I don't won't to go too low; I've seen the low riders bounce all over the road. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.
  • Always have bought Chev pickups but nervous now because they are so expensive.Need 4x4 should I be looking at Ford and Dodge? Can`t wait till the new Chev`s are out to buy. So many conflicting reports I am lost. Can anyone help!Northern Ontario Canada
  • mharde2mharde2 Posts: 278
    bushworker, The best advice I can give you is to go out and test drive all three, and buy the one you like the best. Sometime you miss out on a good thing by not trying something different. I have always bought Ford trucks, but I found myself with the same problem as you. I needed a heavy duty pickup, and the new Fords where not out yet. So I took a Dodge Ram Tubro Diesel for a test drive. I got a big shock. I realy liked it, and that suprised me. I ended up buying one. So take the time to drive the Ford 4x4, and the Dodge 4x4. You might be suprised too. Road and track said that the Ford F150 4x4 was the best off road truck they ever tested. Good luck, Mike
  • donidoni Posts: 1
    I understand that Chevy/GMC are putting out their new redesigned 1999 trucks in March. Does anyone know when the Suburbans will be redesigned? My husband wants to trade in my 1997 for a 1999 but I don't want to be stuck with a brand new vehicle that looks old if they redesign for the year 2000.
This discussion has been closed.