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Knock Sensor Purchase? 2-Prong or 1?

queenofdorkdomqueenofdorkdom Member Posts: 2
Hi there,

My CEL came on recently, took into the dealer who said that no code was thrown back. But then charged me $1,500 for other repairs that were needed. Fine. Paid all that, then the light came back on. Turns out it was the knock sensor all along. Rather than fork out another $300 or so, I thought I'd replace it myself. Looks pretty standard. However, for the life of me, I can't figure out whether I need to buy a 1- or 2-prong replacement part. I'm confused as to why there is an option...so I thought I'd refer to the forum, since you're always so helpful :)

I have a '97 Subaru Legacy L.

Thanks in advance!

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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,833
    edited September 2011
    Does yours have the 2.5L engine? The 2.2L was eliminated as an option on the Outback in 1997, but I don't recall if the same is true for the Legacy that year.

    If it is the 2.5L, I'm fairly certain it is a single prong.

    I have some photos of the rebuild I did on my '96 2.5L, and that one is single. Getting to it is a bit of a pain, but other than that, it should be a simple replacement!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    queenofdorkdomqueenofdorkdom Member Posts: 2
    Mine is a 2.2 Sedan. :)
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,833
    Hah; it figures!

    If you're buying locally, get them both, pull the old one out, replace it with the correct one, then take the other back. ?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    tewantewan Member Posts: 1
    Kudos for this blog post. Highly engrossing and well penned post. Thanks!

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