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  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    Check out the new Edmunds.com Maintenance Guide! Link is provided in the Additional Resource Box.

    KarenS
    Host
    Owner's Clubs
  • evansmevansm Posts: 2
    Does anybody have a method to keeping the Alum. trim looking good (between the front and rear windows)and the Triangle behind the the rear window.
    Also the black plastic at the bottom of the window. 2000 300m Black w/ chrome 17"
  • vap0rvap0r Posts: 3
    Howdy!
    Just bought a 300m 'special' and was curious what if anything you folks recomend for protecting the painted alloy wheels? They seem to take forever to clean and then brake twice and BAM dirty again! Any kind of wax or polish that helps prolong the agony of cleaning or perhaps someone has had luck with 'shields' behind the rim?
    Thanks
  • rbottosrbottos Posts: 3
    Fluid help!!
    What is the real change interval for the differential fluid in the 300m? Three out of 8 dealers in Houston say 15,000, rest say 30,000. It seems expensive and unreasonable to need to change fluid every 6 months in my case. Any help appreciated.
    regards
  • Reading the messages on the 300M , handling and tires seems to a concern to some of the owners.
    I found out the 300M front camber cannot be adjusted. It might have left the factory + or -. This can be a handling problem and also make the tires feel they are going in different directions. Factory has no 'package' to make the camber adjustable. The Intrepid ES, SE and R/T have the adjustable camber. All 'performance cars' have adjustable cambers as far as I know.
  • My 99 300M has had two sets of Goodyear Eagle tires - first replacement set installed at 10,000 miles. With each set, steering wheel has shaken noticeably. Dynamic balancing does not seem to improve shaking, but moves the speed at which the shaking is felt. Alignment has been checked and is OK. Is this a camber problem? Has anybody tried different tires with success?
  • Echodog I have had the same problem. Called GoodYear Customer Service about this problem and was given an adjustment towards new tires at 15,000 miles. Same problem. I have had the tires balanced by four different dealers to no avail. My 300M will do the hula at 55 but smooths out at higher speads. Front end checked several times. No problem there. Must be the tires.
  • I drive a 1999 300M. Checked my manaual today for 30,000 service. They recommend changing the Power Steering Fluid, Transmission Fluid, PVC Valve and Differential Fluid. IS THIS REALLY NECESSARY. Seems excessive.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    I have no idea why you haven't seen this yet, but the GY Eagles on the car are ABSOLUTE GARBAGE! Very, very, very many owners have found this out already, and have ditched the crapyears as we call them. Very noisy, lacking in grip, and most of all, have wear problems and serious vibration issues. Just get rid of the tires, and the shaking problem should leave with them.

    If not, then there may be another problem with the car, for which several have been bought back by Chrysler after much fighting from the owner. Just hope it's the tires....
  • topcuttopcut Posts: 54
    I have a 2002 M,,,,,Michlein tires came standard on it and it drives down the road perfect and has for 20k miles.......Might try some ....
  • does anybody know how much a speed sensor costs?, can I do it my self?, and is there a 300M club in ARIZONA for me?
  • I have a 2000 300M with 22,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on so I took it to the dealer. They checked it out and said the engine miss fired. they changed plugs this didn't fix it,took it back,swaped coils,this didn't fix it. now they say the heads need to come off to clean carbon off the valves and change the valve springs. they say there is a tsb on this problem. my question is, does anyone know anything about this problem? do the heads have to come off to change valve springs and with 22,000 miles on it? would there be enough carbon to cause a problem? this is very hard to believe. maybe i know too much about engines. this all sounds like a load of BS! Can someone help? or suggest my next move? i don't want the engine torn down.
  • psterpster Posts: 293
    I have never heard of this problem and believe me if it can break on a 300M, it's happened on mine. Personally, before I would let the dealer do a $1500 piece of work on you, I'd try to see if it is another problem. Carbon build at 22,000 miles? No way. Even if it was, perhaps there is a gas additive that would work, and much cheaper. I have not heard of a valve spring problem in 4 years of monitoring various 300M boards. Is this a 5* dealer? Be cautious and get a second opinion. Many of the service reps love to sell repairs, and they are good at it!
  • I have a '99 300M, 50.2K miles, check engine light came on, speedo does not work and car will not shift out of 2nd gear? HELP.....
  • ceikostceikost Posts: 30
    Go to RECALLS & TSB. Click on #78.

    Not a big problem, just a pain in the A**.
  • shayfordshayford Posts: 1
    I just recently had to have my front rotors resurfaced and front pads replaced at 30,000 miles. Has anyone else had to do this? I was told by the mechanic that that is not unusual for 30,000 miles for this particular car. I do mostly highway driving so I don't feel I use them too much, compared to being a city driver. I also had them check out my brakes when I had only 5,000 miles on it because it made a crunching noise when I would come to a complete stop, I was told that was completely normal. So now I have new brakes and no noise, can you see my point? I believe there was a problem from very beginning and if that's the case I shouldn't have to pay. I'm debating on contacting the service manager to see if I can get any type of refund for this work, anyone have any suggestions or similar problems?
  • lapasada2lapasada2 Posts: 6
    Shayford who inspected your brake pads and rotors? I have a 1999 300M with 34,000 miles. 99% of my driving is in the city. Had brakes checked last week and was told I have at least another 10,000 on pads, etc. Sounds to me like you have been taken to the cleaners.
  • lapasada2lapasada2 Posts: 6
    I drive a 1999 300M. Went to my locale Chrysler Dealer for 30,000 service. Advised service writer that I wanted the Factory Recommended 30,000 service as specified in their Manual. I was informed that because we were in desert (Las Vegas) that they recommended their 30,000 service. I was not provided the listing of this service but assumed that it was relatively close the the Factory recommendation. I further advised the service writer that my battery had been replaced a month ago and that the tires were replaced on May 10, 2003. They were not to service the battery or rotate and balance the wheels. The service I was provided was as follows: Engine oil and filter; A/C Service; Transmission Service; Throttle Body Service and coolant drained drained and refilled at 50/50 ratio. For this I was charged $520.00. Comments please. I FEEL LIKE I HAVE BEEN TAKEN TO THE CLEANERS.
  • zenicizenici Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 300M and th3e brakes are terrible. The car has 26K miles on it and the brakes have pulsated for at least the last 5K miles. I am determined to get it fixed next week. Almost all of my driving is highway. The fromt rotors are scored, the rear rotors are smooth. I have not looked at the pads. But at the very least I will need to have the front rotors machined (perhaps replaced) and new pads. If anyone has replaced rotors I would like to know if they recommend anything other than OE also any recomendation on pads.

    Thanks
  • muskateer3muskateer3 Posts: 103
    Having replaced the front brakes in my 2000 300M more times than I would like to admit, I must say I finally found the right combination and have had no problems since.

    Go to Tirerack.com and order a pair of Brembo replacement rotors (about $50 each). Then go to the Chrysler dealer and get the "Value Line" pads.

    After market pads transfer too much heat to the rotors and eat them up prematurely. The brembo rotors are superior to stock, and the "Value Line" pads are completely redesigned and properly address the heat issue that the aftermarket seems incapable of doing.

    Best of luck,

    M3
  • Two weeks ago I took my 1999 300m into Discount Tire to have the wheels balanced and rotated and I learned a tidbit of information about our cars that I would like to pass on.

    Discount removed all the wheel weights and balanced my wheels the first time with tape weights.

    The tape weights did not balance very well so I took it back and asked them to use clip on weights and a dynamic balance which they did.

    My wife was driving the car on the freeway and told me she would hear a loud THUNK and the car would start vibrating which was the wheel weights flying off the rims.

    I took it back two more times to two Discount's with the same results.

    So I did a little research and found TSB 22-01-98 which discusses the proper wheel weights for our cars and called Discount to see if they had these weights, which they did not.

    BTW, The proper wheel weights for the 17" rims is called an LHS weight, it is used on LHS, 300M, Town & Country, PT Cruiser...

    So I called NTB, no weights, and then called a tire equipment wholesaler in town which told me to go to Sams Club.

    Believe it our not my Sams Club has a wonderful assortment of wheel weights for many cars and had the correct LHS weights for the 300m.

    You of course could take your car to the dealer for balancing but Sams is probably cheaper.

    Now my wife is happy and the car drives smooth again.

    Thanks

    BM12
  • Would someone please tell me where the floor jack jacking points are? Costco also has the right weights for our 300M's.
  • I just encountered this same problem with my 1999 300M tonight. I read the TSB, but was wondering if this is something that I can replace myself?
  • Sounds like the input and output sensor problem to me. Sensor parts cost between $15-20 each, plus labor to install. I have the numbers for parts if you need them. I have a 99 and keep a spare set in my glove box along with a diagram of where they go so the AAA guy will know. I had mine changed out as a preventive maintenance mesasure on my second tranny service around 65K miles.
  • How much have you paid for a 10000 mile service?
  • 10000 mile service?

    Sounds like a dealer-concocted service. A car should not need any type of service at 10,000 miles (assuming that oil changes have been made at recommended times)...
  • Did he mean 100,000 mile? Don't know on that one, but the big cost around then is the timing belt and water pump [once inside the housing, might as well change it too].
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Posts: 52
    How do you replace the battery? I have a 2000 model with 57,000 on it. I thought I had better find out now how to get to the battery so I will be ready when the day arrives.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 688
    Look in your service manuals.

    If you don't have a set after 57,000 miles, take it to the dealer, they'll take good care of you!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Posts: 52
    Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • The battery is located down in the right fender. You first remove the louvered plastic wheel house panel - good luck getting it off! The screw clips go flying all over when you try to wrestle it off from the rest of the plastic wheel house. Then remove the air cleaner housing by removing the intake hose from it and then pulling up on it then to the left of the car. Now disconnect the one exposed battery terminal. BE VERY CAREFUL, as I recall, all that you have access to is the Positive terminal. Disconnecting the positive terminal first is dangerous, you should always disconnect the negitive first but it isn't accesible until you slide the battery halfway out the right front wheel well. Then remove the battery hold down. NOW you can finally slide the battery aft thru the access hole in the wheel well. In order to slide the battery out, the front tires must be turned all the way to either the left or the right, sorry but I forget which way. Finally, disconnect the other battery terminal and remove it down and out of the wheel well.

    Install the new battery in reverse procedure. Good luck getting that louvered access panel back in place on the wheel house liner. Everytime you move it to line up the screw holes, 2 screw clips go flying somewhere!. If this whole thing sounds like a real chore, it certainly is.
  • darla2darla2 Posts: 1
    Any recommendations for servicing my '99? Its at 250,000 KM.
  • garyc04garyc04 Posts: 1
    Hi:
    I have a 99 Chrysler LHS. Had a temporary instance of "limp mode" yesterday, but it went away. I would like to change out the input and output sensors as a PM. Could you please share the part numbers and give a general idea as to location. Sounds like I should be able to do the R&R myself.

    Thanks
  • gdchappellgdchappell Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 LHS. Just had a full brake job done (not at the dealer) and now stopping is an adventure. When you need the brakes the most it seems as if they turn into mush. Before the brake job, I had good braking... the only reason I had the brakes done is I detected a very small amount of scoring on a rear rotor. Other than that, the car would haul down quite nicely even with the scoring.

    Could the culprit be those after-market pads you are referring to?
    -David
  • my300mmy300m Posts: 6
    I've been reading allot about draining and filling with and without the benefit of the drain plugs and the different ways of draining which is all very informative. However, has anybody ever done a coolant flush? I'm going attempt a coolant change tomorrow on my 2000 300M but I would like to flush the system first before filling since I'm willing to bet has never been changed before.

    My idea of a flush would be be drain, fill up with tap water only, run engine, cool engine, drain and repeat a couple of times followed by a final fill with distilled water and coolant. I will only use tap water if I can gain access to the drain plugs, otherwise I'll use distilled water...or maybe use distilled water the last fill and drain before doing the final fill which I will use distilled water.

    I may be way off base, therefore, any insight would be appreciative.
  • Speed sensor is located inside the gas tank along with the fuel pump, pump assembly, and fuel filter it is all on unit. You have to get the unit from the 5* I had my mechanic do it and it cost me about $550. You can do it yourself but it's a REAL PAIN in the A**
  • mshermsher Posts: 5
    Just buy the brake pads good quality. It seems you have cheap pads which produce a lot of dust while braking.
  • mshermsher Posts: 5
    you can dowload Chrysler service manual for LH platform from http://www.comreg.ru/lh2manual.pdf
    you will find all the info there.
  • Has anyone heard of a way to remove scratches in the head light lenses?
  • WOW!
    I have a '99 w/ 116K miles...continue to spend $$ on the necessary maintenance and fixing of failed components.

    I have a leak in 2 of the high pressure lines from the trans....the dealer claimed it was a $400 fix....I think I'll live w/ the small leaks.

    The A/C compressor is howling....system failure must be on the way.

    My rear window does not operate...dealer says to count on $400 to fix that....

    The passsenger side auto lock actuator buzzes very loudly when locking the doors....my kids just give me the blank stare when they are riding in my vehicle.....I know what that are thinking but.....I think it's a keeper!

    :)
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Posts: 3,486
    Wow, indeed! Had I kept my '99, I'd "only" have about 75,000 miles on it by now! Glad you still love your M, I really enjoyed mine and miss it. But my '05 TL makes me just as happy!

    Especially with 7 coats of Zaino applied!

    '13 Jaguar XF, possibly my favorite of all the cars I've owned. But, my '09 Jag XK was a beauty, as was my '05 Acura TL, '88 Acura Integra, '84 Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo & '78 VW Scirocco (my first!). And, of course, the '92 Nissan Sentra SE-R and '95 Saab 900s I bought for the ex... Ok, I like a lot of the cars in my life.

  • Can someone tell me what the procedure for removal of the left rear door panel on a 2000 300M is other than the 3 screws at the bottom and the 1 in the cup?
  • gsloatgsloat Posts: 2
    I am the owner of a 2000 300M, I went to hibdon's to ck the balance of front tires. To my dismay I was quoted close to $600 to replace both inner tie rods/or bushings/rack and pinion bushings. Bottom line is they didn't know. I believe I can replace cheaper by doing myself. I don't know how! Can someone who has done this before please help me? Sincerely frustrated 300m owner!!!
  • tr3323tr3323 Posts: 1
    Hi Seeburg -
    New to this site and need some advice. My husband successfully replaced the battery yesterday in my 2000 300M, and now the manual heat automatically comes on full blast repeatedly after being turned off. 5 seconds after turning it off it comes on again (great in June!). I checked the manual and it says nothing about this. I'm wondering if something has to be reset? Another problem that is probably unrelated is that I have no AC - Had it charged up last summer and it only lasted a few weeks and I've been putting off the inevitable of costly AC replacement. Any ideas on the constant heat problem? Thanks!
  • Hi tr3323
    sorry for my english, i am from italy
    hi have the same problem as you
    first of all my ac go down . i charged it and after 1 week
    it returns off.
    thanks to let me know :mad:
  • ok if you have the automatic climate control to do a self diagnostics on it which will cause it to run through all it's systems you need to. set the temp to 75 press and hold the floor,mix and defrost all at the same time. until the display blinks then release the bottons. It will then go through all the system funtions and bring back any trouble codes that it finds if any. let me know if it finds any and I'll give you what it means. I hope that this helps!!! Jonathan
  • Hi I have a 1999 300m and I have had two electrical problems that needed to be fix per the maintenance guy. Now my car stopped on me while I had my foot on the brakes at the light. And when I tried to crank it again the engine whould not catch it would try to but would not turn over. I suspected that my gas pump died on me because when i sprayed some starter fluid in the valve it turned over for about 10sec then cut off. So I bought a fuel pump from napa and replaced the old one but it didn't look just like the original. And I put it in anyway. Tried to crank it and it seemed like it was going to start once I sprayed some starter fluid in it again. But no luck. It's doing the same thing it was doing when it cut off on me at the light. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this problem.

    Thanks for your help
  • xray01xray01 Posts: 6
    Hi! I am new to this message board, and noticed this message, Went to the site cannot be found. Any place else to get the Repair Manual On CD?

    xray 01 :) :confuse:
  • Dear Seeburg,

    I need a lot of help, with more details regarding changing the battery. Ok, I removed the air intake hose from the air filter but I don't see any screws for the air filter housing unit so how does it come off? It looks attached? Also, what is the louvered plastic wheel house panel? Where is it? Is it part of the front bumper? I have a 2000 Chrystler 300M and have never owned a car where removing the battery is such a hassle. I am so frustrated I am ready to sell it. Please help me and the more details, the better. Also, if you have any diagrams that would help. My e-mail is [email protected] what is yours? Thanks.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    Why not buy a battery that includes free installation and save yourself the hassle? Most garages do charge to install but one big box chain doesn't and happens to offer a top rated battery to boot. Local Chrysler dealers are going all out to match prices on after market products like tires, brakes, shocks etc. You never know until you ask. They will quote you a price around a hundred bucks but they will listen to a reasonable offer. If you belong to AAA they have a service that offers installation and a battery at your home or business for about $100 but they offer free replacement for 3 years. Lots of options. Choose wisely.
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