Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!



  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    Check out the new Maintenance Guide! Link is provided in the Additional Resource Box.

    Owner's Clubs

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • evansmevansm Posts: 2
    Does anybody have a method to keeping the Alum. trim looking good (between the front and rear windows)and the Triangle behind the the rear window.
    Also the black plastic at the bottom of the window. 2000 300m Black w/ chrome 17"
  • vap0rvap0r Posts: 3
    Just bought a 300m 'special' and was curious what if anything you folks recomend for protecting the painted alloy wheels? They seem to take forever to clean and then brake twice and BAM dirty again! Any kind of wax or polish that helps prolong the agony of cleaning or perhaps someone has had luck with 'shields' behind the rim?
  • rbottosrbottos Posts: 3
    Fluid help!!
    What is the real change interval for the differential fluid in the 300m? Three out of 8 dealers in Houston say 15,000, rest say 30,000. It seems expensive and unreasonable to need to change fluid every 6 months in my case. Any help appreciated.
  • Reading the messages on the 300M , handling and tires seems to a concern to some of the owners.
    I found out the 300M front camber cannot be adjusted. It might have left the factory + or -. This can be a handling problem and also make the tires feel they are going in different directions. Factory has no 'package' to make the camber adjustable. The Intrepid ES, SE and R/T have the adjustable camber. All 'performance cars' have adjustable cambers as far as I know.
  • My 99 300M has had two sets of Goodyear Eagle tires - first replacement set installed at 10,000 miles. With each set, steering wheel has shaken noticeably. Dynamic balancing does not seem to improve shaking, but moves the speed at which the shaking is felt. Alignment has been checked and is OK. Is this a camber problem? Has anybody tried different tires with success?
  • Echodog I have had the same problem. Called GoodYear Customer Service about this problem and was given an adjustment towards new tires at 15,000 miles. Same problem. I have had the tires balanced by four different dealers to no avail. My 300M will do the hula at 55 but smooths out at higher speads. Front end checked several times. No problem there. Must be the tires.
  • I drive a 1999 300M. Checked my manaual today for 30,000 service. They recommend changing the Power Steering Fluid, Transmission Fluid, PVC Valve and Differential Fluid. IS THIS REALLY NECESSARY. Seems excessive.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    I have no idea why you haven't seen this yet, but the GY Eagles on the car are ABSOLUTE GARBAGE! Very, very, very many owners have found this out already, and have ditched the crapyears as we call them. Very noisy, lacking in grip, and most of all, have wear problems and serious vibration issues. Just get rid of the tires, and the shaking problem should leave with them.

    If not, then there may be another problem with the car, for which several have been bought back by Chrysler after much fighting from the owner. Just hope it's the tires....
  • topcuttopcut Posts: 54
    I have a 2002 M,,,,,Michlein tires came standard on it and it drives down the road perfect and has for 20k miles.......Might try some ....
  • does anybody know how much a speed sensor costs?, can I do it my self?, and is there a 300M club in ARIZONA for me?
  • I have a 2000 300M with 22,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on so I took it to the dealer. They checked it out and said the engine miss fired. they changed plugs this didn't fix it,took it back,swaped coils,this didn't fix it. now they say the heads need to come off to clean carbon off the valves and change the valve springs. they say there is a tsb on this problem. my question is, does anyone know anything about this problem? do the heads have to come off to change valve springs and with 22,000 miles on it? would there be enough carbon to cause a problem? this is very hard to believe. maybe i know too much about engines. this all sounds like a load of BS! Can someone help? or suggest my next move? i don't want the engine torn down.
  • psterpster Posts: 293
    I have never heard of this problem and believe me if it can break on a 300M, it's happened on mine. Personally, before I would let the dealer do a $1500 piece of work on you, I'd try to see if it is another problem. Carbon build at 22,000 miles? No way. Even if it was, perhaps there is a gas additive that would work, and much cheaper. I have not heard of a valve spring problem in 4 years of monitoring various 300M boards. Is this a 5* dealer? Be cautious and get a second opinion. Many of the service reps love to sell repairs, and they are good at it!
  • I have a '99 300M, 50.2K miles, check engine light came on, speedo does not work and car will not shift out of 2nd gear? HELP.....
  • ceikostceikost Posts: 30
    Go to RECALLS & TSB. Click on #78.

    Not a big problem, just a pain in the A**.
  • shayfordshayford Posts: 1
    I just recently had to have my front rotors resurfaced and front pads replaced at 30,000 miles. Has anyone else had to do this? I was told by the mechanic that that is not unusual for 30,000 miles for this particular car. I do mostly highway driving so I don't feel I use them too much, compared to being a city driver. I also had them check out my brakes when I had only 5,000 miles on it because it made a crunching noise when I would come to a complete stop, I was told that was completely normal. So now I have new brakes and no noise, can you see my point? I believe there was a problem from very beginning and if that's the case I shouldn't have to pay. I'm debating on contacting the service manager to see if I can get any type of refund for this work, anyone have any suggestions or similar problems?
  • lapasada2lapasada2 Posts: 6
    Shayford who inspected your brake pads and rotors? I have a 1999 300M with 34,000 miles. 99% of my driving is in the city. Had brakes checked last week and was told I have at least another 10,000 on pads, etc. Sounds to me like you have been taken to the cleaners.
  • lapasada2lapasada2 Posts: 6
    I drive a 1999 300M. Went to my locale Chrysler Dealer for 30,000 service. Advised service writer that I wanted the Factory Recommended 30,000 service as specified in their Manual. I was informed that because we were in desert (Las Vegas) that they recommended their 30,000 service. I was not provided the listing of this service but assumed that it was relatively close the the Factory recommendation. I further advised the service writer that my battery had been replaced a month ago and that the tires were replaced on May 10, 2003. They were not to service the battery or rotate and balance the wheels. The service I was provided was as follows: Engine oil and filter; A/C Service; Transmission Service; Throttle Body Service and coolant drained drained and refilled at 50/50 ratio. For this I was charged $520.00. Comments please. I FEEL LIKE I HAVE BEEN TAKEN TO THE CLEANERS.
  • zenicizenici Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 300M and th3e brakes are terrible. The car has 26K miles on it and the brakes have pulsated for at least the last 5K miles. I am determined to get it fixed next week. Almost all of my driving is highway. The fromt rotors are scored, the rear rotors are smooth. I have not looked at the pads. But at the very least I will need to have the front rotors machined (perhaps replaced) and new pads. If anyone has replaced rotors I would like to know if they recommend anything other than OE also any recomendation on pads.

  • muskateer3muskateer3 Posts: 103
    Having replaced the front brakes in my 2000 300M more times than I would like to admit, I must say I finally found the right combination and have had no problems since.

    Go to and order a pair of Brembo replacement rotors (about $50 each). Then go to the Chrysler dealer and get the "Value Line" pads.

    After market pads transfer too much heat to the rotors and eat them up prematurely. The brembo rotors are superior to stock, and the "Value Line" pads are completely redesigned and properly address the heat issue that the aftermarket seems incapable of doing.

    Best of luck,

  • Two weeks ago I took my 1999 300m into Discount Tire to have the wheels balanced and rotated and I learned a tidbit of information about our cars that I would like to pass on.

    Discount removed all the wheel weights and balanced my wheels the first time with tape weights.

    The tape weights did not balance very well so I took it back and asked them to use clip on weights and a dynamic balance which they did.

    My wife was driving the car on the freeway and told me she would hear a loud THUNK and the car would start vibrating which was the wheel weights flying off the rims.

    I took it back two more times to two Discount's with the same results.

    So I did a little research and found TSB 22-01-98 which discusses the proper wheel weights for our cars and called Discount to see if they had these weights, which they did not.

    BTW, The proper wheel weights for the 17" rims is called an LHS weight, it is used on LHS, 300M, Town & Country, PT Cruiser...

    So I called NTB, no weights, and then called a tire equipment wholesaler in town which told me to go to Sams Club.

    Believe it our not my Sams Club has a wonderful assortment of wheel weights for many cars and had the correct LHS weights for the 300m.

    You of course could take your car to the dealer for balancing but Sams is probably cheaper.

    Now my wife is happy and the car drives smooth again.


  • Would someone please tell me where the floor jack jacking points are? Costco also has the right weights for our 300M's.
  • I just encountered this same problem with my 1999 300M tonight. I read the TSB, but was wondering if this is something that I can replace myself?
  • Sounds like the input and output sensor problem to me. Sensor parts cost between $15-20 each, plus labor to install. I have the numbers for parts if you need them. I have a 99 and keep a spare set in my glove box along with a diagram of where they go so the AAA guy will know. I had mine changed out as a preventive maintenance mesasure on my second tranny service around 65K miles.
  • How much have you paid for a 10000 mile service?
  • 10000 mile service?

    Sounds like a dealer-concocted service. A car should not need any type of service at 10,000 miles (assuming that oil changes have been made at recommended times)...
  • Did he mean 100,000 mile? Don't know on that one, but the big cost around then is the timing belt and water pump [once inside the housing, might as well change it too].
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Posts: 52
    How do you replace the battery? I have a 2000 model with 57,000 on it. I thought I had better find out now how to get to the battery so I will be ready when the day arrives.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 688
    Look in your service manuals.

    If you don't have a set after 57,000 miles, take it to the dealer, they'll take good care of you!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Posts: 52
    Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sign In or Register to comment.