Not sure I can help a whole lot, but I'll try. First, a warning: I didn't test-drive a Ram, nor have I done any real homework on them, so I don't know any of this for sure. That said, I believe the 5.2L engines in both the Ram and Dakota both use the NV3500 manual tranny, so that much should be the same. As far as shift lever/clutch travel, perhaps I should explain - I've been driving subcompact cars and mini-trucks since I got a driver's license so to me a "real truck" drivetrain will feel different. On most vehicles I've driven, the clutch will start to engage about 1/3 of the way through the travel (say, 1 1/2 inches off of the floor) and fully engage at about 2/3 of the clutch travel (maybe 3 inches up). The Dakota clutch starts to "grab" at about 4 inches off the floor, and fully engages just about when the pedal is all the way up. All the Daks I've tested (5) do this, and it appears to be a function of the hydraulic clutch's ability to self-adjust. Just feels odd to me, is all. As far as shift lever throw, most of the vehicles I've driven have shifters no more than 6 inches long or so - in the Dakota, the thing's about a foot long! Knob movement is further (1-2 shift may take 4 inches of movement to complete, others similarly long) so blasting through the gears just ain't gonna happen. As far as how this applies to the Ram - I would expect the differences to be even bigger. Clutch travel might be about the same, but the shifting I would expect even more movement with the bigger truck (think the seats are further off of the floor). As far as driving a bigger vehicle, only advice I can give is to just remember that your vehicle is now between 4 and 6 feet longer than what you're probably used to - it'll take you more room to do things. Cut your corners a little wider and take the new truck into a deserted parking lot to practice parking, parallel parking, cornering, etc. when you first get it. Worked for me!
the truck only has 200 miles on it and im taking in on tuesday to the dealer. nut, over the phone the dealer told me that it was normal! i have had 4 chevy 1500's and have never heard a tap period.
Any Dodge Dadota with 31 X 10.5 tires should have the wheel flares and mud flaps. I live in Tacoma, WA where they tend to use sand on public roads for traction. After 18,000 miles with just fender flares, the rear fender flares are needing repainted. They've already been sand blasted to a white hue. Not good on a flame red truck. The dodge dealer does have mud flaps that fit trucks with or without fender flares. Have since purchased these and have remedied the problem, along with a small amount of flame red spray paint for a temporary fix. Also keeps stones from hitting those behind you.
Billman... It's the same thing w/the 98. The problem lies within a small plastic valve (can't remember which one) that mounts to the firewall, just to the left of your steering column (inside the engine compartment). Dodge has released a Service Bulletin regarding this. Just take your truck to your dealership and have the service guys take a look at it. They'll probably have to order the part unless you have a REALLY BIG dealership in town. It takes about 15-30 min. to change the part and it is done at NO cost to you. I currently have the ONLY truck in the world that has the problem even after the service has been performed. What are the chances of that huh? I'm handing my '98 5.2 4x4 over to my dealership for an entire day so that they can trouble shoot it with the engineers in Detroit. They'll release an updated service bulletin soon after. If you get the service done and the problem persists, go back and have them contact Dodge about an update...courtesy of your truly and a truck with a really annoying tap...
P.S. The tapping won't hurt anything in your engine, it just happens to knock at the right frequency to make the steering column vibrate...annoyingly.
Missed your post #319 Billman...If the dealer tells you it's normal, tell him he's full of...well, you know what he's full of. I had 1 tell me ti ignore it, another tell me it was the "exhaust baffeling from one manifold to the other" (what a crock!). The third dealership knew exactly what was wrong and fixed it. (sort of)
Hello all, Two weeks ago, I took delivery of a 99 5-speed SLT 4x4 club cab, V6, Tire & Handling Group, etc., (basically power everything) in lieu of waiting for the 2k quadcab. Without a doubt, this is the finest vehicle I have owned in my 43 years. Quiet, Smooth...and Awesome! My dealer also offered an alarm/remote start option which I elected to take. Only to find out later, (after the alarm was installed) that the installer refused to install the remote start, supposedly due to safety/liability concerns (which I fully understand). Couple questions: 1. Is it technically possible to equip a 5-speed with the remote start? While I acknowledge the concerns, I would really like to add this option. 2. Are there any service bulletins I should know about on this vehicle and address now? 3. Does the tire cupping problem occur with the 31 inch tires? 4. Seen this question posted with no response yet: does Dodge plan to discontinue the club in favor of the quad? 5. The infinity speakers/200 watt amp has turned me on to good sound and i'm considering adding an additional aftermarket power amp and sub. Any thoughts or advice? Can I do this myself -easily- a 'la Crutchfield or is a professional installer the best bet?
My intention has been to keep this truck until the 2k quad model comes out. Now, reading the previous posts on the reduced bed lengths makes me think I won't --really depends on the styling but who would want a 4.9" bed? (I just think it would look -silly- never mind what your intended use of the vehicle is.) Thanks for a terrific open forum, and any feedback on my several questions!
As for the remote start -- the lawsuit potential in a stick-shift is so high that I doubt you'll find a good shop willing to do it for you. The sleazier ones might, but odd as it might sound I wouldn't trust anyone who would to do it.
As for the powered subwoofer, I'd go with a JL Stealthbox and an external amplifier. I've never had anyone not love the stealthbox line, and its certainly powerful and clear enough to enjoy.
Your best bet is to find a good audio shop in your area that carries JL and talk to them about it. To find a dealer, check the Dealer Find script. Of course, if you're looking to do a low-budget install, get some MDF and buy a cheap sub -- the stealthboxes are a little pricy, but deliver fantastic sound and good value for money.
Oh -- you can add it yourself, but you'd be better off going with a professional if you're not too savvy about auto electronics. To do a good job will include running 4 guage wire from the battery to the new amplifier (safely, w/ all the right circuit breakers and shielding) for instance. If you feel up to the task, that's great! Installing your own system is fun and rewarding. If not though, most shops will do a full amp install for ~$80, including wire, breakers, etc.
waynebh and all: saw the photo Dodge has on their site of the Y2K 4-door. Really disappointed. The thing looks like a mutant - the bed is so short (did someone say 4.9 ft? It looks even less than that) and the cab is so long - it just looks like a failed truck/sedan hyrbid. Not much good for either. I cannot believe Dodge would discontinue it's current 4-door in favor of this freak show. I mean if you get the Y2K you might as well put a carpeted bed-liner, a shell, and call it a Honda(albeit with a really strong engine!)
I'm going to testdrive the '99 Dakota tomorrow - 4x4, x-cab, small V8 etc. If I like then I will devide between that and a Y2k Jeep Grand Cherokee (don't ask). But I have no desire to wait around for the Y2K Dakota if that's what it's really going to look like. Maybe the Toyota Tundra might worth taking a peek at...is that out yet???
dpatton, post# 313 Thanks, You answered questions asked in post #269. I've ordered a 99 club cab 4x4 SLT, w\3.9 5sp. I was concerned if the 3.9 was sufficient. Are your mpg's with the 5sp or auto. Did you opt for the 235's or 31in tires. Does the anti slip diff affect gas mileage. Glad to hear your a happy camper.
I can answer one of your Q's, anti slip does not effect gas mileage in itself. But utilizing the 4x4 does, thats where you see the lower numbers. Anti spin is only in use when one wheel is loosing traction. If both wheels are turning at relatively the same speed, anti spin is idle.
THANK YOU,ASTA, I COULD NOT AGREE WITH YOU MORE. IT IS WHAT I HAVE BEEN SAYING ALL ALONG. OTHER THAN THE "NOVELTY" OF IT, THE PROPOSED Y2K DAKOTA "FOUR-DOOR" IS A FREAK. IF YOU ARE GOING TO SPEND ALL THAT MONEY, GET A "REAL TRUCK". FOR THOSE THAT WANT A SMALLER TRUCK WITH AN EXTRA CAB, THEY SHOULD NOT BE LOOKING AT IT AS A SEDAN. AS IS SHOWN BY DODGE'S EFFORTS IN THIS FREAK, YOU CANNOT HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT TOO. I LOVE THE DAKOTA AS IT IS NOW -- JUST GIVE ME BETTER ACCESS TO THE AREA BEHIND THE FRONT SEATS, WHETHER IT IS FOR A SHORT RUN FOR SMALLER FOLKS, OR TO THROW MY GROCERIES, TOOLS OR WHAT-HAVE-YOU IN. IF I NEED TO HAUL PEOPLE FOR A LONG TRIP, I WOULDN'T THINK OF ASKING THEM TO DO IT IN A RANGER,DAKOTA, OR EVEN A BIG RAM FOR THAT MATTER. TAKE A CAR, OR GET A TRUE CREW CAB (F250 OR SOMETHING).
I've got the 2WD version with a 5-speed, tires are P255/65R15's (part of the Tire & Handling package). Between the bigger tires and the 3:55 rear end (stock is 3:21, IIRC) I figured on losing at least a couple of MPG across the board, which is about what happened.
I'd have to defer to others on whether the V-6 is adequate for a 4x4, but I personally wouldn't be too concerned. From what I've heard, 4x4's require a fair amount of low-end torque, which the V-6 has a pretty good supply of. Won't be winning too many races with it, but it won't leave you stranded either.
Just over 5,000 miles, and still a happy camper!
Dmat: Thanks for the help on the limited-slip diff. I wouldn't have known whether it adversely affects MPG or not - wasn't specifically looking for a truck that had it, just sorta worked out that way.
For the folks asking about v6 power and mpg, the v6 is more than adequate for the 4x4...off the line the truck has tons of boost...acceleration is no problem at all. Haven't had a chance to utilize 4Low, but I suspect it would pull an 18-wheeler. In (5 speed) overdrive, I usually shift down when passing: the OD is a bit sluggish but no problem. Highway mpg at 75-80mph (I commute 140 miles per day) is averaging 17.5 mpg. (It is a new truck: they say it will go up but we'll have to see.
Thanks Dmat, dms1 and waynebh Nice to get responses. My current 2wd dakota is giving me 24mpg( v6, 5sp and 3:21 rear axle) can't expect this with my new truck. 20mpg would be nice on highway. I'm also a long range commuter.
schuur, Thats a real great Idea on buying a full size crew cab, just to drive long distances in.
Mabye the 2000 dakota isn't for you, but it is going suit a lot of people's needs. Take for instance a family of four. The husband wants a a vehicle to carry his gear around, or just wants to have the pickup truck image, or whatever other reason. But with a wife and kids, he can't do that with a club cab, quad cab (mabye), so he's stuck with buying a car or minivan. This vehicle gives a person the best of both worlds. You got room for 6, can haul your trailers with ease, can carry most of your cargo in the bed, and isn't to big to fit in your garage or parking spaces. Plus with the choice of a v6, or an all new v8 tranny combo, yuo got the performance as well. If you dont want the four doors, I'm sure there still will be the club cab for at least a year, to see how things go with the four door.
So can someone tell me the towing capacity for a dakota slt v6 with auto transmission? For some reason I can't seem to get a clear answer to this question.
shcuur did you know caps means you're yelling on the internet. if you meant it, we got the point, but i don't think you did. i owned a 97 dodge dakota sport, 4x4, 3.9 liter engine with the towing package. great truck but after only 25k miles, i found a SLOW leak between the trans and the clutch. is this normal? also, there was a ticking sound whenever it was cold. i thought it was in the belts and sprayed belt dressing on it, but it persisted. does anyone else have this problem?
aaron8 - re the ticking sound check post #94 - also post#231 references a web-site: alldata.com which provides details on the service bulletin to fix this problem, if it turns out to be the same thing.
Well, it depends on how your vehicle is set up - 2WD or 4WD? Regular or Club Cab? 3:55 or 3:92 rear axle ratio? If you can give me more info, I can look it up for you, or you can try this URL:
I have heard there is a problem with the cruise control gettting ruined on all trucks 96 and newer of dodge because the wiring is below the the battery and the acid leaks occasionally on the wiring. has anyone experienced this.
Yes and no, I think that your query stems from max tow figures.
Almost all of the Dodge engines will pull more outside the vehicle (especially the Cummins). The limiting factors are the trans. and the break system. Transmissions usually handle less than the max output potential from the engine. However as a safeguard, this is computer controlled to protect the trans.
Hmm. Good question. Truth to tell, I'm not sure whether it'd make a lot of sense to put the limited-slip in a 4WD vehicle or not. On 2WD it does because it keeps the drive wheel(s) pushing under more adverse coditions (patches of ice, slush, loose sand, etc.) but on a 4WD you can usually just drop her into 4-lo and keep chugging. You'd get some benefits under the same conditions that a 2WD vehicle would, but 4WD? Dunno. Any particular reason why you'd want to put it in? Anybody else out there got an opinion on this one?
The reason I got mine with limited-slip was basically just because it happened to be there - all I wanted was a V-6 powered tow vehicle with a stick shift. In retrospect I can see how it might help on a boat ramp with slick patches of algae, but it's not likely to be a cure-all for putting a vehicle in a situation that it shouldn't have been put in in the first place.
just ordered a dakota R/T, excited, think I got a good price. 22,500 (500 over stkr), I thought that wasn't bad for a truck that is a limited edition and sells itself. Figuring the dlr doesn't have to entertain offers I jumped at it.
EXT cab/OvrHd Pwr Conv Grp/Htd Mirrors/AMFM CD CAss/Deep amethyst pearl coat...Cali/NY emmisions
Few questions though: 1. How negotiable are DLr Add-ons?
2. Would after mrkt optns decrease value and or resale if it were to become a classic? {I don't want to get ahead of myself, but the truck is pretty unique 5.9 et all}
would appreciate any input 'bout the R/T, this site was very helpful in research and decision making.
One thought about limited slip, and many other features -- if its relatively cheap and money is not overly tight, go ahead and add it. Its a pain to put on later, and I don't know of any reason why you'd want not to have it after the fact.
The current R/T might be a classic, in the future, but don't count on it. Dodge is planning to bring the 5.9l replacement engine out soon, so if they put that in the dakota, the R/T name will live on, and might be quicker too. But owning one with the 5.9l probably will make it to the classic hall of fame, since they've only been out a couple of years.
maybe, maybe not, but the I heard the last of the push rods is soon to come off the line, wasn't that why they were throwin the 5.9 in the Grand Cherokees for a while too? What did you think of my $ quote?
More thoughts on limited slip, Many times you don't know you're on ice (black ice)until your rear is spinning. Also it prevent that rear end clunk when spinning wheel hits dry pavement again.
I posted awhile back regarding my 99 ext cab 4x4 with v8 and 5 speed. I love the truck (have almost 7k miles since mid Nov including a trip from Richmond, VA to northern Maine and back at xmas) but have a few problems. 1) My fog lights don't work. Has anyone else had this problem? 2.) My gas mileage is really awful (my driving might have something to do with it). I'm talking 220-230 miles per tank/13-14 mpg in mixed city and highway driving. What are others out there getting with the 4x4 v8 ext cab? The truck sounds like a late 60's muscle car when revved up in second gear and then letting off the gas...it gurgles (borderline backfiring) like mad. 3.) The bass on the Infinity CD stereo is a little week. The woofers can't seem to keep up...they sound like they are loose in the enclosures, or collapsing on themselves. Again, is this just me? Any resolutions besides trying to find someplace for a subwoofer? I apoligize for the long message, just wanted to get some input before I take it into the dealer for the 7500 service. Thanks.
I'll try to answer the first one, open up the dash fuse panel and see if any are loose. Also turn on your headlights and see if the fogs come on. Check your owners manual about the fog lamp operation.
If none of these suggestions work, call up the dealer where you bought the truck and ask to speak top a service writer to set up an appointment.
If you go with a sub, don't worry about finding space if you have an extended cab. I don't know anyone who's been unhappy with the JL Stealthboxes and one is available for your truck.
dpeabody, I have a 1998 dakota ext cab with the infinity sound system. Added a 100watt amplifier to the stock cd player, sound great, but the speakers can't handle the bass with out distortion (only 6 1/2 in. speakers) I've since added a subwoofer (10inch) and a third amp with built in bass expander. Turning the bass down to a minimum on the cd player allows the stock speakers to play highs and mid ranges without distortion. The bass can then be turned up using the bass controls on the amplifier. Sounds great! I removed the padded flip down seat behind the drivers bucket seat, gave me room for the speaker box and still room for three. Four people was way to uncomfortable anyway. As for the fog lights, probably a bad relay. But that's what warranties are for, make the dealer fix it.
does anyone have the dodge under the railbed liner??? it cost about 10 -15% more than others but, i like the fact that it has some kind of provisions that allow you to use the built in tie downs.ANY FEEDBACK OR SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS...
DPEABODY, i have a '99 extended cab 4 x 4 v8. as far as gas mileage... i have the overhead computer which tells me that i am getting a whopping 13.9 mpg mixed city/hwy.
I have the Dura-liner in my Ram, and it also has the built-in tie downs and slots for placing boards to section it off. I assume most of the drop-in bedliners have these now.
I have the Dodge under-the-rail liner. The holes near the cab are cut the exact size as the hole in the actual bed sheet metal. this allows those rubber plugs to be inserted in the bed liner. My only complaint is that there are holes near the gate for the rear tie-downs. These are uncovered and could allow water and debris to get under the liner and cause damage to the sheet metal. There really isn't anyway to get around this since the tie downs protrude through the cut out. At least these rear tie downs aren't on the floor, but mounted on the side of the bed.
Thanks for all the input on the anti-spin. I put in an order for a Dakota 4X4 last week with the V-6 and a manual. Just a heads up to you folks thinking about ordering right now. The dealer told me my order has been held up because Dodge is out of manual trannys. I guess the word is out that that's the way to go with this truck and they're coming up short. No word on when they'll be pumping those out again. But, looking forward to getting the truck.
I own a 95 SLT 4x2, 8' bed, automatic, V6 and am generally quite happy with it, except for a couple things. Maybe someone here can help me out.
1. If I let the tank get to 1/4 tank left, the truck gets the shakes, and stutters like mad. Happens at exactly 1/4 tank, never any other time. Air filter is fine, plugs are fine. Anyone else have this problem?
2. This truck isn't exactly wonderful for passing. I have the automatic, so downshifting is out. Would stepping up to 93 octane gas be worthwhile, or should I just live with it, and get the V8 next time around?
econard - I drove the Ford Ranger with the larger cab up in seattle on a rental. I had mud tires on it and 4x4 and went up to the cascades and it did great! The shift on the fly 4wd was nice, and it even had a 4 lo if I needed it (I didn't). I'd say the big difference between ranger and dakota is the power/towing capability of the Dodge - that V8 they put in there is pretty gutsy. Ranger has no such comparison. Also, the dakota has a bit more room in the cab - the ranger has these tiny little jump seats which my two neices sat in - they're 14 and 9 respectively and it was kinda tight for them on a one hour trip - we had to pull the passenger seat all the forward for the 14 year old to even squeeze in. Dakota seems better with that rear bench seat - but I wouldn't be dragging 4 or 5 people around on long hauls with either truck. Get an SUV!
I was seriously considering the ranger after my excellent experience up in the cascades, but after going to the auto show here in LA and sitting in the dakota, checking out the engine, etc. I would opt for the dakota. Either one is a good small truck - but you can't beat a V8 if you wanna tow. On the other hand I've heard the dakota MPG is just terrible (in the V8) like 13/15 or something. What's everybody else's take between these 2 trucks?
Comments
First, a warning: I didn't test-drive a Ram, nor have I done any real homework on them, so I don't know any of this for sure. That said, I believe the 5.2L engines in both the Ram and Dakota both use the NV3500 manual tranny, so that much should be the same. As far as shift lever/clutch travel, perhaps I should explain - I've been driving subcompact cars and mini-trucks since I got a driver's license so to me a "real truck" drivetrain will feel different. On most vehicles I've driven, the clutch will start to engage about 1/3 of the way through the travel (say, 1 1/2 inches off of the floor) and fully engage at about 2/3 of the clutch travel (maybe 3 inches up). The Dakota clutch starts to "grab" at about 4 inches off the floor, and fully engages just about when the pedal is all the way up. All the Daks I've tested (5) do this, and it appears to be a function of the hydraulic clutch's ability to self-adjust. Just feels odd to me, is all.
As far as shift lever throw, most of the vehicles I've driven have shifters no more than 6 inches long or so - in the Dakota, the thing's about a foot long! Knob movement is further (1-2 shift may take 4 inches of movement to complete, others similarly long) so blasting through the gears just ain't gonna happen.
As far as how this applies to the Ram - I would expect the differences to be even bigger. Clutch travel might be about the same, but the shifting I would expect even more movement with the bigger truck (think the seats are further off of the floor).
As far as driving a bigger vehicle, only advice I can give is to just remember that your vehicle is now between 4 and 6 feet longer than what you're probably used to - it'll take you more room to do things. Cut your corners a little wider and take the new truck into a deserted parking lot to practice parking, parallel parking, cornering, etc. when you first get it. Worked for me!
Hope this helps,
DMS1
DP
Yes the 5.9l will be available for 2000 in the dakota, other then the R/T. Go to www.4adodge.com
It states this there.
P.S. The tapping won't hurt anything in your engine, it just happens to knock at the right frequency to make the steering column vibrate...annoyingly.
Two weeks ago, I took delivery of a 99 5-speed SLT 4x4 club cab, V6, Tire & Handling Group, etc., (basically power everything) in lieu of waiting for the 2k quadcab.
Without a doubt, this is the finest vehicle I have owned in my 43 years. Quiet, Smooth...and Awesome!
My dealer also offered an alarm/remote start option which I elected to take. Only to find out later, (after the alarm was installed) that the installer refused to install the remote start, supposedly due to safety/liability concerns (which I fully understand). Couple questions:
1. Is it technically possible to equip a 5-speed with the remote start? While I acknowledge the concerns, I would really like to add this option.
2. Are there any service bulletins I should know about on this vehicle and address now?
3. Does the tire cupping problem occur with the 31 inch tires?
4. Seen this question posted with no response yet: does Dodge plan to discontinue the club in favor of the quad?
5. The infinity speakers/200 watt amp has turned me on to good sound and i'm considering adding an additional aftermarket power amp and sub. Any thoughts or advice? Can I do this myself -easily- a 'la Crutchfield or is a professional installer the best bet?
My intention has been to keep this truck until the 2k quad model comes out. Now, reading the previous posts on the reduced bed lengths makes me think I won't --really depends on the styling but who would want a 4.9" bed? (I just think it would look -silly- never mind what your intended use of the vehicle is.)
Thanks for a terrific open forum, and any feedback on my several questions!
As for the powered subwoofer, I'd go with a JL Stealthbox and an external amplifier. I've never had anyone not love the stealthbox line, and its certainly powerful and clear enough to enjoy.
Your best bet is to find a good audio shop in your area that carries JL and talk to them about it. To find a dealer, check the Dealer Find script. Of course, if you're looking to do a low-budget install, get some MDF and buy a cheap sub -- the stealthboxes are a little pricy, but deliver fantastic sound and good value for money.
I'm going to testdrive the '99 Dakota tomorrow - 4x4, x-cab, small V8 etc. If I like then I will devide between that and a Y2k Jeep Grand Cherokee (don't ask). But I have no desire to wait around for the Y2K Dakota if that's what it's really going to look like. Maybe the Toyota Tundra might worth taking a peek at...is that out yet???
Thanks, You answered questions asked in post #269. I've ordered a 99 club cab 4x4 SLT, w\3.9 5sp. I was concerned if the 3.9 was sufficient. Are your mpg's with the 5sp or auto. Did you opt for the 235's or 31in tires. Does the anti slip diff affect gas mileage. Glad to hear your a happy camper.
Matt D
http://members.xoom.com/99overNvoice/Index.htm
I'd have to defer to others on whether the V-6 is adequate for a 4x4, but I personally wouldn't be too concerned. From what I've heard, 4x4's require a fair amount of low-end torque, which the V-6 has a pretty good supply of. Won't be winning too many races with it, but it won't leave you stranded either.
Just over 5,000 miles, and still a happy camper!
Dmat:
Thanks for the help on the limited-slip diff. I wouldn't have known whether it adversely affects MPG or not - wasn't specifically looking for a truck that had it, just sorta worked out that way.
DMS1
Nice to get responses. My current 2wd dakota is giving me 24mpg( v6, 5sp and 3:21 rear axle) can't expect this with my new truck. 20mpg would be nice on highway. I'm also a long range commuter.
If you keep up on your air filter, get split pulgs, and check the air in the tires, you can get very close to the 20 mpg.
Matt D
http://members.xoom.com/99overNvoice/Index.htm
Mabye the 2000 dakota isn't for you, but it is going suit a lot of people's needs. Take for instance a family of four. The husband wants a a vehicle to carry his gear around, or just wants to have the pickup truck image, or whatever other reason. But with a wife and kids, he can't do that with a club cab, quad cab (mabye), so he's stuck with buying a car or minivan. This vehicle gives a person the best of both worlds. You got room for 6, can haul your trailers with ease, can carry most of your cargo in the bed, and isn't to big to fit in your garage or parking spaces. Plus with the choice of a v6, or an all new v8 tranny combo, yuo got the performance as well. If you dont want the four doors, I'm sure there still will be the club cab for at least a year, to see how things go with the four door.
did you know caps means you're yelling on the internet. if you meant it, we got the point, but i don't think you did. i owned a 97 dodge dakota sport, 4x4, 3.9 liter engine with the towing package. great truck but after only 25k miles, i found a SLOW leak between the trans and the clutch. is this normal? also, there was a ticking sound whenever it was cold. i thought it was in the belts and sprayed belt dressing on it, but it persisted. does anyone else have this problem?
http://media.daimlerchrysler.com/index_e.htm
there's lots of Dakota info there.
HTH,
DMS1
Almost all of the Dodge engines will pull more outside the vehicle (especially the Cummins). The limiting factors are the trans. and the break system. Transmissions usually handle less than the max output potential from the engine. However as a safeguard, this is computer controlled to protect the trans.
Matt D
http://members.xoom.com/99overNvoice/Index.htm
I am about to put in ano order for Dakota 4X4 with the v6 manual. I was wondering if the anti-spin axle was worth the extra cash. Got any thoughts?
DP
The reason I got mine with limited-slip was basically just because it happened to be there - all I wanted was a V-6 powered tow vehicle with a stick shift. In retrospect I can see how it might help on a boat ramp with slick patches of algae, but it's not likely to be a cure-all for putting a vehicle in a situation that it shouldn't have been put in in the first place.
DMS1
EXT cab/OvrHd Pwr Conv Grp/Htd Mirrors/AMFM CD CAss/Deep amethyst pearl coat...Cali/NY emmisions
Few questions though:
1. How negotiable are DLr Add-ons?
2. Would after mrkt optns decrease value and or resale if it were to become a classic? {I don't want to get ahead of myself, but the truck is pretty unique 5.9 et all}
would appreciate any input 'bout the R/T, this site was very helpful in research and decision making.
Tomguiness
the 5.9l replacement engine out soon, so if they put that in the dakota, the R/T name will live on, and might be quicker too. But owning one with the 5.9l probably will make it to the classic hall of fame, since they've only been out a couple of years.
What did you think of my $ quote?
Many times you don't know you're on ice (black ice)until your rear is spinning. Also it prevent that rear end clunk when spinning wheel hits dry pavement again.
If none of these suggestions work, call up the dealer where you bought the truck and ask to speak top a service writer to set up an appointment.
Matt D
http://members.xoom.com/99overNvoice/Index.htm
I have a 1998 dakota ext cab with the infinity sound system. Added a 100watt amplifier to the stock cd player, sound great, but the speakers can't handle the bass with out distortion (only 6 1/2 in. speakers) I've since added a subwoofer (10inch) and a third amp with built in bass expander. Turning the bass down to a minimum on the cd player allows the stock speakers to play highs and mid ranges without distortion. The bass can then be turned up using the bass controls on the amplifier. Sounds great! I removed the padded flip down seat behind the drivers bucket seat, gave me room for the speaker box and still room for three. Four people was way to uncomfortable anyway.
As for the fog lights, probably a bad relay. But that's what warranties are for, make the dealer fix it.
i have a '99 extended cab 4 x 4 v8. as far as gas mileage... i have the overhead computer which tells me that i am getting a whopping 13.9 mpg mixed city/hwy.
billman
I have the Dura-liner in my Ram, and it also has the built-in tie downs and slots for placing boards to section it off. I assume most of the drop-in bedliners have these now.
I have the Dodge under-the-rail liner. The holes near the cab are cut the exact size as the hole in the actual bed sheet metal. this allows those rubber plugs to be inserted in the bed liner. My only complaint is that there are holes near the gate for the rear tie-downs. These are uncovered and could allow water and debris to get under the liner and cause damage to the sheet metal. There really isn't anyway to get around this since the tie downs protrude through the cut out. At least these rear tie downs aren't on the floor, but mounted on the side of the bed.
1. If I let the tank get to 1/4 tank left, the truck gets the shakes, and stutters like mad. Happens at exactly 1/4 tank, never any other time. Air filter is fine, plugs are fine. Anyone else have this problem?
2. This truck isn't exactly wonderful for passing. I have the automatic, so downshifting is out. Would stepping up to 93 octane gas be worthwhile, or should I just live with it, and get the V8 next time around?
Thanks for any thoughts.
I was seriously considering the ranger after my excellent experience up in the cascades, but after going to the auto show here in LA and sitting in the dakota, checking out the engine, etc. I would opt for the dakota. Either one is a good small truck - but you can't beat a V8 if you wanna tow. On the other hand I've heard the dakota MPG is just terrible (in the V8) like 13/15 or something. What's everybody else's take between these 2 trucks?