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2002 f150 4.6l eng ?

minikarsminikars Member Posts: 1
On my truck water/coolant will pool around plug 5 and short it at idle and send a ck eng lite and miss fire codes, my garage will dry the plug well ,ck the plug ,clear the codes and everything works for 6-9 month before repeteing . No driving in water or washing the eng, no coolant leaks, i did find a post about coolant line leaking on the differant forum and moved the line but made no differants.


  • saturnbluesaturnblue Member Posts: 10
    I got into the habit of disconnecting the battery as I noticed the battery kept dying after sitting for several months without being used as I measured around 10K resistance at the battery connectors, that may have just been due to the fuseable link between the + and - cables, that's no longer my main problem.

    My F-series has 18K miles on it, the oil level is normal, the starter motor turns over the crankshaft and I recently checked the spark wire off a plug and I have spark, my main problem now is that the warning light for "low fuel" comes on now after I cycle through many attempts to start the engine.

    The last time I operated my truck was about 3 months ago in early OCT 2011, the only problem I had that day was I had to jump start the truck because even with the battery disconnected, I still had a battery that required a jump start to turn over the engine until it successfully maintained a stable running idle.

    Does anyone know what might cause a fuel delivery problem on a 2003 F-150 4.2L manual truck?

    I checked all the fuses that have anything to do with the fuel system and they're all good, I even checked the fuel shutoff switch in the passenger kick-panel area, it did not require a reset.

    I have a code reader and no codes were returned, I replaced the battery, but the fuel shutoff or no fuel condition persisted, so I returned the new battery for a refund.

    I'd appreciate some shortcuts besides the fuel rail solenoid coil test which Chilton's says it should read between 13.5 - 19 ohms.

    Unless I receive some good ideas, I'm going to have to methodically test one by one the suspected fuel delivery path by removing the fuel supply hose at the back of the engine block to see if fuel pressure is being delivered by the fuel tank pump.

    Obviously, if it's only the fuel filter, that would be a lot easier to replace than a fuel pump and the hassle that involves.

    My biggest concern is how a truck that worked fine 3 months ago could suddenly stop delivering fuel to the engine cylinders without anyone or anything affecting it directly.

    During the 3 months of idle non-use, the truck was stored in a garage, so it's not like a neighbor or some stranger could have done anything with me noticing it.

    What is the likely cause of a fuel blockage problem like this?

    Normally something like this should give one a few hints before it stops working completely, right?
  • killa202killa202 Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like you may need to start with a "Real" fuel injector cleaning. By that I mean the $79 to $99 deal that many shops offer, BG products has a really good system for injector cleaning.
    Please don't be in denial about "it didn't get used, so it should be just I left it"...this is not reality, based on the very low quality and lower shelf life of gasoline these days, you failed say if you added a fuel stabilizer before letting this engine sit for an extended period, in future this could help with this problem.....don't want sound preachy...just a few ideas for you...gman
  • saturnbluesaturnblue Member Posts: 10
    Turns out the fuel pump was bad and I replaced it and the engine starts right up and I've had to place the vehicle into PNO because I hardly ever drive it anymore.

    I do have an unrelated problem with an on and off again problem with a leaking clutch line and I think it's leaking from the slave cylinder area as that's the only area that I've noticed fluid leaking out when the clutch won't engage properly.

    When this has happened I've had to pump the clutch before it would disengage the clutch and allow me to change or shift into gear.

    I'm probably going to confirm my suspicions some day and attempt to have the slave cylinder replaced probably at a reputable repair shop as I don't have the equipment necessary to drop the transmission like chilton's recommends.
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