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1998 Model: Water Pump, Radiator, Thermostat and Hose Replacement

The water pump's wheel was slightly wobbling indicating bearings going out. Car was overheating off and on without warning. And, heater wouldn't pump out warm air. I received bids on the work mentioned in the thread title. The pricing ranged from $1100 to $1320. Since most of the shops didn't bother to even look over the car properly, or couldn't locate the water pump within 60 seconds, I decided to do the work myself. Here are the parts:

1. Water pump (with gasket)
2. Water pump gasket sealant - or Ultra Gray
3. Radiator (Make sure it has all the replacement fittings.)
4. Upper Radiator Hose (Spring clamps or C clamps if needed)
5. Lower Radiator Hose (Spring clamps or C clamps if needed)
6. Thermostat plus the rubber internal ring and gasket.
7. Seal/Gasket remover (Can also use a good quality chisel or metal putty knife)

Objective 1: Drain the coolant from the radiator and engine. Placed a bucket underneath the Lower Radiator Hose and engine block. Opened radiator cap. Pulled the lower radiator hose off and drained quickly. (Lots of old water and conditioner crap came out.) You can also open the radiator's drain plug but will drain the system slower.

Objective 2: Removing and Reinstalling Radiator:
A. Removed the 2 engine mounts and 2 car frame braces. (Engine will move a little but can easily be titled back in to place later.)
B. Removed the Upper Radiator Hose (URH) and all the attached small hoses connected to the radiator. (Removing the metallic hoses requires a little patience.)
C. Loosened the wire harness that runs along the frame via 2 plastic screws. (This is a good time to look for bare, torn or damaged wires.)
D. Removed 2 upper arms that hold radiator in place. (Radiator can now be tilted towards the engine and pulled up and out.)
E. Replace all the metal valves to match the old radiator including cleaning the temp sensor and it's connected wire with contact spray cleaner. Then reverse the steps above for installation.

Objective 3: Remove Water Pump
1. Before removing Serpentine belt, loosen the 4 small screws on the water pump pulley wheel. (The belt will help stabilize it just for loosening.)

2. SPECIAL STEPS: Remove the lower bolt on the Power Steering pump. Only loosen the top bolt and the PSP pulley can be moved aside slightly. Also, remove the battery and lay the fuse box in the battery compartment to free up work space. This WILL save you time and headache!

3. Serpentine belt is easily removed by using a socket wrench or crescent wrench. (NO fancy tool needed.) Angle the wrench slightly towards the front of the car and push. The tension pulley will suddenly lower and the belt can be slipped off.
4. Finish removing the water pump pulley wheel. There are 8 screws holding the water pump in place. (There are two empty screw holes - these are nipples for centering the water pump.) Use a rubber mallet or padded hammer to break the water pump's seal while holding on to it.
5. Clean off the old seal remnants. Make sure it's nice and clean.
6. Add sealant and gasket to the new water pump before installing. (Put the sealant on the water pump. Then center the gasket on the water pump. Then put more sealant on the gasket.)
7. Using the 2 nipples no the engine block as guides, center the water pump back on the block and use the smaller screws to hold it in place. Put all the rest of the bolts back alternating the tightening from side to side. (The bolt closest to the power steering can be tightened just a bit extra.)
8. Re-mount the power steering pump. Since you have one bolt holding in place, it will be very easy to find the other hold.
9. Clean off the water pump pulley wheel thoroughly before tightening back on. (You may need an extra pair of hands to steady the wheel.)
10. Re-install the serpentine belt (existing or new is up to you if the belt has cracks.)
11. Put back your fuse box and battery.

Objective 4: Remove and Replace Thermostat
1. Using a long neck socket, remove the 2 screws holding the hose cap in place. (Leave the old thermostat in for the moment while you complete the next step.)
2. Clean off any and all old sealant/gasket remnants on both the cap and engine. (Now pull out the old thermostat.)
3. Apply sealant to the cap first, then gasket (if needed) and finally the engine port.
4. Center the cap and tighten back down the bolts alternating side to side.

That's pretty much the complete mission. The engine temps now stay very cool, heater effectively warms the car and no more wobbling water pump which caused some belt slipping and poor cooling.
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