If a person tightens one lugnut to torque and then tightens the other it could cause a shimmy. I've done it. The rear propellor shaft has splines on the end that slips into the trans. If the campanion flangs bolts are removed the propellor shaft will slip out of the trans. And alot of fluid runs out.
Meca2, you could be right, but I was just under there and I'm pretty sure I didn't see a slip joint (was looking for a grease nipple on it). The front propellor shaft has one (and the grease nipple). I have the 2001 LE btw.
Meca is right, the slip joint for the rear shaft is inside the transfer case.
I had my shaft out last weekend working on isolating the vibration. Some vehicles have the slip joint outside (a 2-piece shaft) others have a 1-piece shaft.
I was hoping we had 2-piece shafts, so I could drive around the block with the rear shaft removed. Great way to diagnose vibrations... No such luck for me though, as you can't really drive without the 1-piece installed...
I am considering buying a V6, 2001 PF but am not thrilled at the idea of using premium gas at today's prices. What octane are you using on your Pathfinder? Any one using 87 octane with no problems?
Hi, I was wondering what people found to be the most effective wheel/rim (not tire) cleaner? Given the large selection available at Walmart I thought I'd ask first.
I tried searching for a previous post on this, but the search engine is awful.
cub4: I have been using regular unleaded from the third tank with no problems Just use from a station that has alot of fuel turnover. I have found that Premium fuel sets in the inground tanks for along time and the Premium performance is just not there. I get 17-20 mpg. My PF runs better on fresh regular fuel!! PS: The PF service manual says the min fuel octane is 87 aki.
Nissan is recommending that with my 30,000 mile service, I need to repack my wheel bearings to tune of more than $200. Can I get some opinions on this? I don't remember having to do this on any other vehicles (other than my '83 Bronco 4x4 at around 100k). I have a 1999.5 XE 4x4. I live in Wisconsin so I have driven 2 winters through the salt and I've done some, but not a whole lot of 4-wheel driven' (never submerged the differentials...much less the bearings). Thanks.
smithmd I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. My 99 has 43,000 miles now and the brakes are 70% front and 80% rear. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
smithmd I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
smithmd I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. My 99 front and rear brakes are at 70% and 80%. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
Hello all. I'm taking delivery of a 2001 LE tomorrow and would like anyone's input for caring for a new PF. Specifically, I'd like to know:
1. Special driving/mechanical guidelines during the break-in period. Also the preferred octane rating to use and any tips on improving mpg.
2. Best products/practices for caring for the appearance, especially the leather interior (a friend of mine with the PF leather package had some problems with leather conditioners filling up the perforations in the leather itself), black clear coat paint, and floor mats.
3. Recommended retailers/websites for aftermarket accessories, i.e. grill guards, interior bike rack, etc.
Thanks for the help. I look forward to hearing from you.
Thanks for the info on the bearing repack. I did decide not to do it after talking with family in Texas and co-workers in Wisconsin...especially at a price of $230.
The family in Texas said, "I've never worried about it on any vehicle...even 4x4's that see a fair amount of mud. But up there in Wisconsin, you have to deal with salt and possibly other contaminants on the roads for 4 months out of the year."
By the way, there's no such thing as a shallow mud puddle in East Texas.
The co-workers in Wisconsin said, "I've never worried about it on any vehicle...4x4 or otherwise. But down there in Texas, you have to deal with the high heat and that might break down the bearing grease faster."
Sounds like it's really a non-issue to me.
Man, with 80% and 90% brakes left, you must coast everywhere you go! I've got 30,500 miles with about 85% of them on the highway (90 mile round-trip commute) and I've only got 45% and 65% left (I drove it everyday for the first year or so, but when gas prices started going up, I pretty much parked the truck to drive the Accord...17 mpg vs. 29 mpg on the highway @ 75 mph).
I have 43,000 miles on it in 2 years and 2 months. You're right, I don't push the truck hard at all and usually ease up at stop lights. I have this annoying brakes squeaks that've been there for a while so I thought the brakes are gone. I was surprise to find out they have so much left.
You're right about the gas. At almost $2/gal for 87, I really want to bike to work. I just got my fiance' a 01 Accord to commute 50 miles to work (she used to drive the truck) to save some gas.
I think I'll wait out on the bearing as well since at $230, I can get a Pop Charger
Hello all. I just got my 2001 PF LE - super black exterior. The dealer threw in the Nissan nose mask for me since I do so much highway driving and was concerned about rock chips in the paint.
Now that I read the instructions for the mask, they indicate that it should be removed whenever the vehicle gets wet. I figured that removing it during a wash was a given, but am I putting the clear coat at risk by ever leaving the mask on a wet exterior?
Does anyone know how to protect the paint from damage from the sunroof deflector. The sunroof deflector has a rubber seal that clamps to the roof. It seems to rub the clear coat.
My deflector was only on the PF a few months. I took it off shortly after buying it and washing it the first time. I noticed a distinct line in the clear coat where the deflector had been. Polishing did not remove the marks.
As far as nose masks go. I'm not sure they make a mask that is "approved" for use in the rain. All the ones I've seen have required removal when driving in the rain. I have also seen problems with uneven fading of the paint and paint wear problems. The least bit of movement will quickly wear the paint down to bare metal!
Just drove about 1,000 miles in new SE at 55-80 and roof all the way open most of the time. You don't need the deflector at all in my opinion. There is a little pop up that works just fine. Lose that piece of plastic.
I just took delivery of my 2001 SE a few days ago. It rained today (we needed it) but I noticed not much beading (actually almost none) of water on the hood. Assumed that truck would have come with fresh coat of wax. Anyway, I've always heard you don't wax a new car for several months at least (something about clear coat paint). Anybody have any recommendations about when to do first wax and best product to use? Thanks.
The paint on most modern cars are baked-on and fully cured by the time they reach the dealer. About the best wax and consumer reports is new finish. Should wax the car twice but it works good for a average store bought wax.
Posted on another PF board. Just brought home new PF. Washed (no soap) very carefullu, chaomised dry. One coat of Meguiars "Show Car Glaze" for wet look, the 2 coats of Meguiars gold #26 yellow wax. It's blinding!!. Also used Mothers "Back to Black" on all the outside black trim and Meguiars "Endurance" gel on the tires. Don't forget to wax inside the doors (maybe once in car life?) Took most of the day. PS, suggest never use damp cloth, Windex, etc on instrument shields. Supposedly Meguiars has a product to clean with but I think anything damp will scratch and dull the finish.
I currently have a 2001PF-LE and live in the MD area. I called NISSAN WEST and they gave me a quote of $65 for oil/filter and tire rotation and that it would take 1-1.5 hours. Is that a rip off or what? Has anyone had their car serviced at Nissan West in baltimore MD? Any pros/cons to this place? Would anybody be able to give me their experience on a 7500 scheduled maintenance? Thanks for your help/advice.
Most larger tire stores will rotate and check the balance for free or min $ and changing the oil?? Can do it your self or your favorite quick lube will do it. Just keep the receipts.
Is there any benefit/requirement to having a Nissan dealership performing your oil change? My first 3750 maint. is due, and I think all that is req. is an oil and filter change. I am leasing my vehicle, does it matter if I don't change the oil at Nissan? thanks, joe
As I posted on the main PF board, I just did my 1st oil change last week on my 2001 PF SE AWD. What a piece of cake...the oil filter is EASILY accessible after the floor shield is removed (8-10 screws). The oil plug is fully accessible also. All this WITHOUT jacking up the truck.
This is the 2nd oil change for the truck...the 1st change was a freebie by the dealer. I went to Mobil 1 synthetic oil with a Fram filter...my odo is at 6400 km (4000 miles). I put in a K&N air filter when odo read 1000 miles.
I just returned on a trip from Toronto to Cleveland...put 1500 km (900 miles) on the odo..averaged 65 mph and peaked out at 95 mph...truck is a fine machine! Just gotta watch out for the smokies on I-90 in Pennsylvania.
Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing minor chips? The hood of my 2001 LE has quite a few of them & I'm afraid if I use the touch-up paint, it will look freckled. I also noticed several rather long marks that resemble a water wake after you skip a rock. So, I finally broke down & bought the bug deflector. Is there a good polish that might hide some of these or will I be forced to live w/these forever?
Ok, disregard my post #127. I went to my local Pep Boys store today. They carry the Meguiars produts along w/the Lexol ones. How about any of the stuff sold that's supposed to help get rid of minor scratches? Anyone have any favorite produsts?
I have a 2001 SE and noticed the sun fades the black trim I have around the windows and door handles. A great thing to make them nice and black and like new is regular black shoe polish. The kind that is liquid and is in a bottle with a sponge applicator. Its weather proof (it is made for shoes so it holds up nicly). You got to have a steady hand and a rag handy for any that gets on the paint but it does come right off the paint. Larry
I posted a question a few months ago about product to clean the instrument panel plastic cover, and didn't get a response. I now have scratches on my instrument panel due, I believe, to work done by a detailer. I have purchased Meguire's product for cleaning and removing minor scratches, but all it seemed to do was to smooth out the surface (scratches still there). I know of several Pathfinder owners who have complained about scratches, so assume that the plastic material is quite 'soft'. Incidentally, I contacted a Nissan dealer here in Canada, and the replacement plastic panel is about $55 Cdn. and about $45 to install. If someone would post the procedure for removing and replacing the instrument panel cover, it would save us some $ ...
Yeah, I was going to try the Meguires, but not after hearing your experience (dang!). Do you think it will work with very light scratches? I know about the ones on the instrument panel. I had them in BOTH my 99.5 and 2001 PF LE right from the factory. I think it is a quality issue in manufacturing. I really don't notice them unless the sun hits it directly...
You can try "Meguiar's Mirror Glaze". Used by all the helicopter pilots/engineers around here. Also used on motorcyles. I use it, and it works, but takes lots of work and patience. It includes wax in the formula to hide the really small scratches, but also has very fine polishing compound.
Meguire's make 2 products, one is a cleaner, and the other a polisher. They indicate it good for such uses as windshield, computer screens etc. I only bought the cleaner, and applied it both to my instrument panel as well as to the 28 year old plexiglass windows of my Boler travel trailer. It shined them up, but did not do well with scratch removal. I too, only notice instrument panel scratches in the direct sunlight. I may try 'Mirror Glaze', but think that I may go with Zaino Bros. products for car care. I find that Lordco here in BC carries the Meguire product line, so will try to acquire a small quantity of Mirror Glaze. Keep me posted on your results.
I, too, have the scratches on the clear plastic, also came from factory (I know this because the scratches are from the inside). Has anyone tried RainX on the clear plastic and what is your verdict? My windshield has lots of small pits (from all the freeway driving) and after I apply the RainX, it seems to form a clear haze, sorta filled in all the pit holes. Maybe it'll work for the clear plastic too? Since some of the scratches are from the inside, may need to buff both sides. I tried some glass cleaner but it didn't help much, just got rid of the fingerprints.
You'll need to remove the instrument cluster to get access to the clear plastic. Here's the procedure (from memory only-someone with a service manual can help explain it better). You'll need a long phillip screwdriver and a sharp knife or flat head screwdriver: -Remove the 2 screws holding the black "housing" that surrounds the cluster -Remove the black "housing". I used a flat head screwdriver and started from the top center. Be careful not to scratch the vinyl on the dash. -The instrument cluster is secured by 4-6 screws. Remove those and the instrument panel comes loose but is still wired to the vehicle. Mine had 4 plugs (LE with All-Mode). IMPORTANT: If you want to disconnect the connectors, make sure you disconnect the battery also else you may loose the speedo head (but you'll loose all the memory function on your radio and seat). -After you disconnect the instrument cluster, you can remove part that holds the clear plastic by pushing on the tabs (about 6?). Be careful with the instrument cluster after you remove the plastic housing. -Finally, you can remove the clear plastic.
It sounds a lot harder than it is. Took me about 10 minutes to take it out. The hardest part was removing the 4 plugs. Hope this helps.
I'm going to try that Mirror Glaze. Where the heck are you finding these products? We don't have a Lordco here in Calgary, where do you get it, David?
Loboy, I also have alot of pitting on my windshield, I'm going to try RainX...there's no way I'm removing my instrument cluster. I'll screw it up for sure!
If you can't find it at Canadian Tire (they carry Meguires stuff), try a motorcycle shop or aircraft parts supply place. It comes in a gray-blue plastic bottle (flat) with flip-up nossle, 8 oz (US). Part number MGH-10.
Thanks bud! We can always count on you for the right answers. The owners manual leaves alot to be desired. I'm glad you answered, I figured it was only 2-3 qts. Thanks again!!!
Hey, haven't bought the service manual yet & I'm coming up on my 7500 mile service. Where is the fitting(s) to lubricate the propellor shaft? Also, does the service manual show what exactly to check for the 7500 mile check of the brakes & million other things to check that I can't remember now? One other thing I noticed, unless I'm reading this wrong, the owner's manual doesn't state when to change transmission fluid, differential fluid, gear lube, etc. other than to check them & change as needed. I'd rather not just trust my nose to smell burned transmission fluid & be a little more proactive. Does the service manual say or does anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks...
There is one fitting on the front drive shaft about an ounce will do. I had to install a 45 deg fitting to lube mine because of the member. The service manual shows very well on how and what to do to change all fluids. The owners manual seems to more of an sales pitch orientated manual the anything else..service intervals and the even the type of fuel that every one have been arguing over the last year!! $250 it should.
To add an extra level of protection on my new '01 SE w/5sp (great truck, no complaints!!!) I want to change all of the fluids/oil to synthetics. What brands and types are you using in the manual tranny, front and rear(LSD) diff's and in the transfer case??? I am thinking of Mobil1 products. Can anyone share their experiences?? Your help will be appreciated!!! Mark
Here's a question for all you service manual owners or anyone who may know. For the 7500 mile service the owner's manual calls for you to inspect the following items:
Brake pads, rotors, drums, & linings Steering gear, linkage & transfer gear, & axle & suspension parts Drive shaft boots Exhaust system
I have a feeling I could do this if I knew what I was looking for. Does the service manual detail exactly what to do? I called the dealership to find out how much the 7500 mile service "inspections" would cost, because I do the oil change, rotate the tires, & grease the propeller shaft my self. They told me the 7500 mile service is a package deal & it would cost more to only do the items I need... umm.... ok. Sounds like a bunch of crap to me. Anyway, let me know if you can help. Hopefully I'll get the service manual soon. Thanks a lot...
Guys, How many quarts are drained from the tranny when servicing? I remember seeing that the entire contents are not drained. As this is the first automatic that I have ever owned, I don't know how you flush the tranny of all its fluid.
How do you guys go about switching to synth if the some of the original oil is left?
Comments
it could cause a shimmy. I've done it. The rear propellor shaft has splines
on the end that slips into the trans. If the campanion flangs bolts are removed
the propellor shaft will slip out of the trans. And alot of fluid runs out.
I had my shaft out last weekend working on isolating the vibration. Some vehicles have the slip joint outside (a 2-piece shaft) others have a 1-piece shaft.
I was hoping we had 2-piece shafts, so I could drive around the block with the rear shaft removed. Great way to diagnose vibrations... No such luck for me though, as you can't really drive without the 1-piece installed...
cheers
I tried searching for a previous post on this, but the search engine is awful.
Thanks, Peter
Just use from a station that has alot of fuel turnover. I have found that Premium
fuel sets in the inground tanks for along time and the Premium performance
is just not there. I get 17-20 mpg. My PF runs better on fresh regular fuel!!
PS: The PF service manual says the min fuel octane is 87 aki.
I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. My 99 has 43,000 miles now and the brakes are 70% front and 80% rear. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. My 99 front and rear brakes are at 70% and 80%. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
1. Special driving/mechanical guidelines during the break-in period. Also the preferred octane rating to use and any tips on improving mpg.
2. Best products/practices for caring for the appearance, especially the leather interior (a friend of mine with the PF leather package had some problems with leather conditioners filling up the perforations in the leather itself), black clear coat paint, and floor mats.
3. Recommended retailers/websites for aftermarket accessories, i.e. grill guards, interior bike rack, etc.
Thanks for the help. I look forward to hearing from you.
The family in Texas said, "I've never worried about it on any vehicle...even 4x4's that see a fair amount of mud. But up there in Wisconsin, you have to deal with salt and possibly other contaminants on the roads for 4 months out of the year."
By the way, there's no such thing as a shallow mud puddle in East Texas.
The co-workers in Wisconsin said, "I've never worried about it on any vehicle...4x4 or otherwise. But down there in Texas, you have to deal with the high heat and that might break down the bearing grease faster."
Sounds like it's really a non-issue to me.
Man, with 80% and 90% brakes left, you must coast everywhere you go! I've got 30,500 miles with about 85% of them on the highway (90 mile round-trip commute) and I've only got 45% and 65% left (I drove it everyday for the first year or so, but when gas prices started going up, I pretty much parked the truck to drive the Accord...17 mpg vs. 29 mpg on the highway @ 75 mph).
You're right about the gas. At almost $2/gal for 87, I really want to bike to work. I just got my fiance' a 01 Accord to commute 50 miles to work (she used to drive the truck) to save some gas.
I think I'll wait out on the bearing as well since at $230, I can get a Pop Charger
Now that I read the instructions for the mask, they indicate that it should be removed whenever the vehicle gets wet. I figured that removing it during a wash was a given, but am I putting the clear coat at risk by ever leaving the mask on a wet exterior?
Please let me know what you suggest. Thanks.
Does anyone know how to protect the paint from damage from the sunroof deflector. The sunroof deflector has a rubber seal that clamps to the roof. It seems to rub the clear coat.
My deflector was only on the PF a few months. I took it off shortly after buying it and washing it the first time. I noticed a distinct line in the clear coat where the deflector had been. Polishing did not remove the marks.
As far as nose masks go. I'm not sure they make a mask that is "approved" for use in the rain. All the ones I've seen have required removal when driving in the rain. I have also seen problems with uneven fading of the paint and paint wear problems. The least bit of movement will quickly wear the paint down to bare metal!
LP
reach the dealer. About the best wax and consumer reports is new finish. Should
wax the car twice but it works good for a average store bought wax.
I currently have a 2001PF-LE and live in the MD area. I called NISSAN WEST and they gave me a quote of $65 for oil/filter and tire rotation and that it would take 1-1.5 hours. Is that a rip off or what? Has anyone had their car serviced at Nissan West in baltimore MD? Any pros/cons to this place? Would anybody be able to give me their experience on a 7500 scheduled maintenance?
Thanks for your help/advice.
pfwun
thanks,
joe
This is the 2nd oil change for the truck...the 1st change was a freebie by the dealer. I went to Mobil 1 synthetic oil with a Fram filter...my odo is at 6400 km (4000 miles). I put in a K&N air filter when odo read 1000 miles.
I just returned on a trip from Toronto to Cleveland...put 1500 km (900 miles) on the odo..averaged 65 mph and peaked out at 95 mph...truck is a fine machine! Just gotta watch out for the smokies on I-90 in Pennsylvania.
A great thing to make them nice and black and like new is regular black shoe polish. The kind that is liquid and is in a bottle with a sponge applicator. Its weather proof (it is made for shoes so it holds up nicly).
You got to have a steady hand and a rag handy for any that gets on the paint but it does come right off the paint.
Larry
I posted a question a few months ago about product to clean the instrument panel plastic cover, and didn't get a response. I now have scratches on my instrument panel due, I believe, to work done by a detailer. I have purchased Meguire's product for cleaning and removing minor scratches, but all it seemed to do was to smooth out the surface (scratches still there). I know of several Pathfinder owners who have complained about scratches, so assume that the plastic material is quite 'soft'. Incidentally, I contacted a Nissan dealer here in Canada, and the replacement plastic panel is about $55 Cdn. and about $45 to install. If someone would post the procedure for removing and replacing the instrument panel cover, it would save us some $ ...
Meguire's make 2 products, one is a cleaner, and the other a polisher. They indicate it good for such uses as windshield, computer screens etc. I only bought the cleaner, and applied it both to my instrument panel as well as to the 28 year old plexiglass windows of my Boler travel trailer. It shined them up, but did not do well with scratch removal. I too, only notice instrument panel scratches in the direct sunlight. I may try 'Mirror Glaze', but think that I may go with Zaino Bros. products for car care. I find that Lordco here in BC carries the Meguire product line, so will try to acquire a small quantity of Mirror Glaze. Keep me posted on your results.
You'll need to remove the instrument cluster to get access to the clear plastic. Here's the procedure (from memory only-someone with a service manual can help explain it better). You'll need a long phillip screwdriver and a sharp knife or flat head screwdriver:
-Remove the 2 screws holding the black "housing" that surrounds the cluster
-Remove the black "housing". I used a flat head screwdriver and started from the top center. Be careful not to scratch the vinyl on the dash.
-The instrument cluster is secured by 4-6 screws. Remove those and the instrument panel comes loose but is still wired to the vehicle. Mine had 4 plugs (LE with All-Mode). IMPORTANT: If you want to disconnect the connectors, make sure you disconnect the battery also else you may loose the speedo head (but you'll loose all the memory function on your radio and seat).
-After you disconnect the instrument cluster, you can remove part that holds the clear plastic by pushing on the tabs (about 6?). Be careful with the instrument cluster after you remove the plastic housing.
-Finally, you can remove the clear plastic.
It sounds a lot harder than it is. Took me about 10 minutes to take it out. The hardest part was removing the 4 plugs. Hope this helps.
Loboy, I also have alot of pitting on my windshield, I'm going to try RainX...there's no way I'm removing my instrument cluster. I'll screw it up for sure!
Thanks gents.
fill to the full mark or about the same as was drained out.
the type of fuel that every one have been arguing over the last year!! $250 it should.
Your help will be appreciated!!!
Mark
Brake pads, rotors, drums, & linings
Steering gear, linkage & transfer gear, & axle & suspension parts
Drive shaft boots
Exhaust system
I have a feeling I could do this if I knew what I was looking for. Does the service manual detail exactly what to do? I called the dealership to find out how much the 7500 mile service "inspections" would cost, because I do the oil change, rotate the tires, & grease the propeller shaft my self. They told me the 7500 mile service is a package deal & it would cost more to only do the items I need... umm.... ok. Sounds like a bunch of crap to me. Anyway, let me know if you can help. Hopefully I'll get the service manual soon. Thanks a lot...
How many quarts are drained from the tranny when servicing? I remember seeing that the entire contents are not drained. As this is the first automatic that I have ever owned, I don't know how you flush the tranny of all its fluid.
How do you guys go about switching to synth if the some of the original oil is left?
Thoughts?
-nismo
to flush the system. How messy do you want to get!! Steve