By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
it could cause a shimmy. I've done it. The rear propellor shaft has splines
on the end that slips into the trans. If the campanion flangs bolts are removed
the propellor shaft will slip out of the trans. And alot of fluid runs out.
I had my shaft out last weekend working on isolating the vibration. Some vehicles have the slip joint outside (a 2-piece shaft) others have a 1-piece shaft.
I was hoping we had 2-piece shafts, so I could drive around the block with the rear shaft removed. Great way to diagnose vibrations... No such luck for me though, as you can't really drive without the 1-piece installed...
cheers
I tried searching for a previous post on this, but the search engine is awful.
Thanks, Peter
Just use from a station that has alot of fuel turnover. I have found that Premium
fuel sets in the inground tanks for along time and the Premium performance
is just not there. I get 17-20 mpg. My PF runs better on fresh regular fuel!!
PS: The PF service manual says the min fuel octane is 87 aki.
I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. My 99 has 43,000 miles now and the brakes are 70% front and 80% rear. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
I asked my dealer about that too when I had my 30,000k service, and he said I don't need it. He mentioned that I should have it done when changing the brakes. I think if you do alot of 4wd then it's a good idea to have it done early, otherwise I'll wait. My 99 front and rear brakes are at 70% and 80%. Hopefully someone else can offer some ideas.
1. Special driving/mechanical guidelines during the break-in period. Also the preferred octane rating to use and any tips on improving mpg.
2. Best products/practices for caring for the appearance, especially the leather interior (a friend of mine with the PF leather package had some problems with leather conditioners filling up the perforations in the leather itself), black clear coat paint, and floor mats.
3. Recommended retailers/websites for aftermarket accessories, i.e. grill guards, interior bike rack, etc.
Thanks for the help. I look forward to hearing from you.
The family in Texas said, "I've never worried about it on any vehicle...even 4x4's that see a fair amount of mud. But up there in Wisconsin, you have to deal with salt and possibly other contaminants on the roads for 4 months out of the year."
By the way, there's no such thing as a shallow mud puddle in East Texas.
The co-workers in Wisconsin said, "I've never worried about it on any vehicle...4x4 or otherwise. But down there in Texas, you have to deal with the high heat and that might break down the bearing grease faster."
Sounds like it's really a non-issue to me.
Man, with 80% and 90% brakes left, you must coast everywhere you go! I've got 30,500 miles with about 85% of them on the highway (90 mile round-trip commute) and I've only got 45% and 65% left (I drove it everyday for the first year or so, but when gas prices started going up, I pretty much parked the truck to drive the Accord...17 mpg vs. 29 mpg on the highway @ 75 mph).
You're right about the gas. At almost $2/gal for 87, I really want to bike to work. I just got my fiance' a 01 Accord to commute 50 miles to work (she used to drive the truck) to save some gas.
I think I'll wait out on the bearing as well since at $230, I can get a Pop Charger
Now that I read the instructions for the mask, they indicate that it should be removed whenever the vehicle gets wet. I figured that removing it during a wash was a given, but am I putting the clear coat at risk by ever leaving the mask on a wet exterior?
Please let me know what you suggest. Thanks.
Does anyone know how to protect the paint from damage from the sunroof deflector. The sunroof deflector has a rubber seal that clamps to the roof. It seems to rub the clear coat.
My deflector was only on the PF a few months. I took it off shortly after buying it and washing it the first time. I noticed a distinct line in the clear coat where the deflector had been. Polishing did not remove the marks.
As far as nose masks go. I'm not sure they make a mask that is "approved" for use in the rain. All the ones I've seen have required removal when driving in the rain. I have also seen problems with uneven fading of the paint and paint wear problems. The least bit of movement will quickly wear the paint down to bare metal!
LP
reach the dealer. About the best wax and consumer reports is new finish. Should
wax the car twice but it works good for a average store bought wax.
I currently have a 2001PF-LE and live in the MD area. I called NISSAN WEST and they gave me a quote of $65 for oil/filter and tire rotation and that it would take 1-1.5 hours. Is that a rip off or what? Has anyone had their car serviced at Nissan West in baltimore MD? Any pros/cons to this place? Would anybody be able to give me their experience on a 7500 scheduled maintenance?
Thanks for your help/advice.
pfwun
thanks,
joe
This is the 2nd oil change for the truck...the 1st change was a freebie by the dealer. I went to Mobil 1 synthetic oil with a Fram filter...my odo is at 6400 km (4000 miles). I put in a K&N air filter when odo read 1000 miles.
I just returned on a trip from Toronto to Cleveland...put 1500 km (900 miles) on the odo..averaged 65 mph and peaked out at 95 mph...truck is a fine machine! Just gotta watch out for the smokies on I-90 in Pennsylvania.
A great thing to make them nice and black and like new is regular black shoe polish. The kind that is liquid and is in a bottle with a sponge applicator. Its weather proof (it is made for shoes so it holds up nicly).
You got to have a steady hand and a rag handy for any that gets on the paint but it does come right off the paint.
Larry
I posted a question a few months ago about product to clean the instrument panel plastic cover, and didn't get a response. I now have scratches on my instrument panel due, I believe, to work done by a detailer. I have purchased Meguire's product for cleaning and removing minor scratches, but all it seemed to do was to smooth out the surface (scratches still there). I know of several Pathfinder owners who have complained about scratches, so assume that the plastic material is quite 'soft'. Incidentally, I contacted a Nissan dealer here in Canada, and the replacement plastic panel is about $55 Cdn. and about $45 to install. If someone would post the procedure for removing and replacing the instrument panel cover, it would save us some $ ...
Meguire's make 2 products, one is a cleaner, and the other a polisher. They indicate it good for such uses as windshield, computer screens etc. I only bought the cleaner, and applied it both to my instrument panel as well as to the 28 year old plexiglass windows of my Boler travel trailer. It shined them up, but did not do well with scratch removal. I too, only notice instrument panel scratches in the direct sunlight. I may try 'Mirror Glaze', but think that I may go with Zaino Bros. products for car care. I find that Lordco here in BC carries the Meguire product line, so will try to acquire a small quantity of Mirror Glaze. Keep me posted on your results.
You'll need to remove the instrument cluster to get access to the clear plastic. Here's the procedure (from memory only-someone with a service manual can help explain it better). You'll need a long phillip screwdriver and a sharp knife or flat head screwdriver:
-Remove the 2 screws holding the black "housing" that surrounds the cluster
-Remove the black "housing". I used a flat head screwdriver and started from the top center. Be careful not to scratch the vinyl on the dash.
-The instrument cluster is secured by 4-6 screws. Remove those and the instrument panel comes loose but is still wired to the vehicle. Mine had 4 plugs (LE with All-Mode). IMPORTANT: If you want to disconnect the connectors, make sure you disconnect the battery also else you may loose the speedo head (but you'll loose all the memory function on your radio and seat).
-After you disconnect the instrument cluster, you can remove part that holds the clear plastic by pushing on the tabs (about 6?). Be careful with the instrument cluster after you remove the plastic housing.
-Finally, you can remove the clear plastic.
It sounds a lot harder than it is. Took me about 10 minutes to take it out. The hardest part was removing the 4 plugs. Hope this helps.
Loboy, I also have alot of pitting on my windshield, I'm going to try RainX...there's no way I'm removing my instrument cluster. I'll screw it up for sure!
Thanks gents.
fill to the full mark or about the same as was drained out.
the type of fuel that every one have been arguing over the last year!! $250 it should.
Your help will be appreciated!!!
Mark
Brake pads, rotors, drums, & linings
Steering gear, linkage & transfer gear, & axle & suspension parts
Drive shaft boots
Exhaust system
I have a feeling I could do this if I knew what I was looking for. Does the service manual detail exactly what to do? I called the dealership to find out how much the 7500 mile service "inspections" would cost, because I do the oil change, rotate the tires, & grease the propeller shaft my self. They told me the 7500 mile service is a package deal & it would cost more to only do the items I need... umm.... ok. Sounds like a bunch of crap to me. Anyway, let me know if you can help. Hopefully I'll get the service manual soon. Thanks a lot...
How many quarts are drained from the tranny when servicing? I remember seeing that the entire contents are not drained. As this is the first automatic that I have ever owned, I don't know how you flush the tranny of all its fluid.
How do you guys go about switching to synth if the some of the original oil is left?
Thoughts?
-nismo
to flush the system. How messy do you want to get!! Steve