Mazda3 High Mileage (2004-2009)

jpeng709jpeng709 Member Posts: 3
Hi, everyone, I am doing a survey to see how many miles can Mazda 3 get before it dies.

If you can, please report the status of your Mazda3.

1. Year
2. Mileage
3. Auto/Manual Transmission
4. Transmission repaired? If yes, at what mileage? New or rebuilt?



  • jpeng709jpeng709 Member Posts: 3
    1. 2005
    2. 123550
    3. Auto
    4. No.

    NB: When cold start, the shifting 1st to 2nd gear jerks. Is this the sign of transmission going bad?
  • irguyirguy Member Posts: 1
    1. 2006
    2. 166,000
    3. Manual Transmission
    4. 3rd issue (slips out of gear) at ~160k, replaced with used trans
    5. Engine noise at 166k, dealer says lifters or timing chain (likely) and advised to replace with used rather than repair (teardown to diagnose ~$1k)

    NOTES: Replacement transmission shifts more smoothly than the original ever did; car has hit redline at least once per day for the past 5+ years and has required no major repairs.
  • jpeng709jpeng709 Member Posts: 3
    Wow,,, you really have got high millage on it. How much did you pay for used Transmission? It's nice to have Manual Transmission, repairing cost is much lower than auto.

    I just send mine to Mazda dealer, they flashed PCM and transmission fluid. But still feel little shift shock 1st to 2nd gear when its cold, its gets better when it's warmed up. and the dealer quoted me a new transmission for $3.5k. :(

    NO more getting auto transmission on Mazda cars, really like the 3 series, but their transmission really bothers me.
  • phil7890phil7890 Member Posts: 3
    1. Year 2005
    2. Mileage 161,000
    3. Auto/Manual Transmission Manual 5sp
    4. Transmission repaired? If yes, at what mileage? New or rebuilt? Origianl transmission and clutch; has had four different drivers, two teenagers
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,048
    1. 2007 Mazdaspeed 3
    2. 103,000
    3. Manual(as it should be)
    4. Absolutely no issues; I run Ford Synthetic Manual Transmission Oil and change it every 30,000 miles.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • jfish5jfish5 Member Posts: 3
    I am shopping for a used Mazda3. I drove an 06 and the clutch (which had been recently replaced) didn't engage until the very end of it's travel. Does that seem normal. Thanks.
  • jfish5jfish5 Member Posts: 3
    Same question for you please. Thanks.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,048
    In the case of my Mazdaspeed 3 the clutch pedal engagement height is normal but the engagement itself is very abrupt- not all that progressive. From published tests and drives of other MS3s I've concluded that the "digital" clutch action is just the nature of the beast.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • p928sp928s Member Posts: 4
    1. 2007 2.3 s 5-door
    2. 130k
    3. Auto Transmission
    4. Transmission repaired? No, though I get a hard shift between 3rd and 4th when accelerating hard.

    You didn't ask about other issues, but I had alternator failure at 115k miles which disabled the car and required a tow to the shop and $700 repair bill.

    Otherwise a very fun and reliable car with 35 mpg hwy.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I had alternator failure at 115k miles which disabled the car and required a tow to the shop and $700 repair bill.

    Care to expand on this failure? Were there any warning signs or recommended service checks by your mechanic? For example, when the car was in service was the alternator ever checked? Also, failed alternators are sometimes due to battery failures or a battery due for replacement. Was this not spotted by the service mechanic ahead of time?
  • p928sp928s Member Posts: 4
    No warning signs on the alternator failure. I live out in the sticks and do most maint. myself so the car rarely sees a mechanic. I did have battery failure early in the life of the car, but no issues after that. Battery was fine at the time of the failure. It's the same one in there now almost a year later.
    The alternator failure caused a bunch of erratic electrical problems. I first noticed a problem about a mile after leaving work. The tach needle started jumping around and lights on the dash started blinking. Then the antilock/stability control started to malfunction and I had to pull off the road. I thought maybe shutting off the engine would clear things up but it wouldn't re-start. $700 and a year later it's been fine.
    I have alignment issues now. The car is eating tires. Going to take it in for a full alignment this week. Like I said, it doesn't get professional maintenance but neither does my 2005 V8 4runner with similar mileage. The 4runner has been flawless.
  • jfish5jfish5 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your response.
  • jdorsett71jdorsett71 Member Posts: 1
    1. 2004
    2. 115,000
    3. Manual
    4. No, but starting to notice a very slight slip in both 3rd and 4th gear; it seems to take a moment for it to actually "get into gear".

    I came on here looking to see prices to replace, and what others may have paid. I LOVE this car, and although I could get a new one, prefer to see about possibly replacing transmission when the time comes...
  • samb6samb6 Member Posts: 1
    1. 2006
    2. 178,000
    3. Auto Transmission
    4. Replaced transmission with a used transmission at 176,000 miles. Used transmission was from a 2008 Mazda5 with 30k miles. Transmission with install labor was $1,100. Dealer quoted me $3,000 to replace transmission with a rebuilt unit. Per the owner's manual, I never changed the transmission fluid. My new mechanic recommends changing every 24 months/30,000 miles.
  • saabturbo9xsaabturbo9x Member Posts: 2
    1. 2004
    2. 239,000
    3. Auto
    4. Original with one flush at 120k

    Cold 1-2 is a little jerky but otherwise shifts fine

    Keep your mass airflow sensor clean (all 4 wires)
  • skeef_25skeef_25 Member Posts: 1
    1. 2008
    2. 170,000
    3. Auto Transmission
    4. Nope. Still Original and Running great

    Outside of normal maintenance which I always do on time (Struts, brakes, etc) I have only had one $250 repair since purchasing it new 9 years ago. Love this car and highly recommend it. No car payment and no major repairs for the last 6 years has been great for my finances. Hoping to get another 3-4 years out of the car @~12,000 miles per year
  • steve1986steve1986 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2017
    1. 2007
    2. 197,000 
    3. auto never had a mechanical issue   except  at 165000 miles the transmission couldn't decide whether wanted to go in 4th or 5th gear so it would shimmy and Jitter like a manual would if you were lugging the piss out of it also noticed it was losing a little transmission fluid put  some Lucas Oil stabilizer in it not the transmission fixed [non-permissible content removed] and it's been fine ever since   and also stop the leak  always ran mobile one change that every 10,000 miles would be about a quart low every oil change 2.3   liter motor 
  • mjmariemjmarie Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2018
    1. Year - 2004
    2. Mileage -240,000
    3. Auto/l Transmission -Manual
    4. Transmission repaired? If yes, at what mileage? New or rebuilt? - no work to transmission so far! shudders a bit when engaging in 1-2, but mechanic said clutch is fine!
    5. I do need to put oil in it almost every other week ( no seal leaks) but internally burns oil as I change plugs pretty frequently to keep it running smooth. Cant complain at 240k!!!
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
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  • Bigtime104Bigtime104 Member Posts: 1
    1). 2005 - HatchBack (3rd owner, bought @ KM 175162
    2). Km 203745
    3). Manual
    4). Fist, I Personally do all Maintenance and Repairs myself. As for Transmission problems. I had to Replace the Clutches Slave Master Cylinder before she would shift back into gear. That was Just after 200000KM. When I first bought her. I replaced rotors & brakes, (rotors were shot from sitting in grass to long). She also needed an alternator. I picked 1 up at my local auto wreckers for cheap.

    Shortly after the slave master cylinder went, she popped a misfire code. A fairly cheap and easy repair. I replaced The valve cover gaskets, and put in new spark plugs to be safe.

    The most common problem with Mazda’s seems to be rust. Currently my underbody is intact but extremely soft. I’ve layered rust killers & Protection sprays to prevent further decay. Although my exhaust finally gave out not long into 2020s winter. The exhaust gave out. Splitting before the pre-catalytic converter.

    I’ve seen most Mazda’s written off. Long before the motor completely dies. Due to underbody rust rot or post 2010-2011 poorly made automatic Transmissions failures.

    Sure with mileage the pistons wear down causing excessive oil burning, loss of torque, acceleration, & power.

    Ill give Mazda credit for finally building their own automatic transmissions witch seem to be a lot better then the post 2010-2011 models. It took them long enough but the improvement is significant according to consumer reports.
  • njcbpsnjcbps Member Posts: 1
    2007 Mazda 3 Hatchback, 2nd owner
    Original manual trans
    375,000 km's
  • yjcarsyjcars Member Posts: 1
    2007 Mazda 3 Hatchback 2.3L
    256500 km
    Original 5-speed automatic transmission.
  • AgaricoAgarico Member Posts: 1

    2007 Mazda 3 Sedan
    222000 miles and counting
    Original Eng and Trans. Mo major repairs.

    Engine burns a little bit of oil (Have to change it every 3k) Transmission shifts super smooth still. No leaks as well.

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