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It would be nice to be able to add a dash button to engage the system manually. The 126 transfer case is suppose to be the same as the 226 minus the lo range. Is the 226 unit the one in the Trailblazer that has buttons on the dash for A4WD, 4WDHI and 4WDLO???? What are the chances a person could figure out how to add a button.
If you are going to buy a Rainy, get the V8. Lots of power. SNOKING
-mike
I recently purchased a GCL 4x4 with the Quadra Trac 1 system. I have been reading some disconcerting things about the system in comparison with the other systems, i.e. quadra trac 2 and quadra drive. What is the deal with my system? IS my system off road capable? Is it good in the snow, rain and gravel? I would really appreciate your knowledge on this one, JP
As long as you don't get into challenging off-road conditions, you should be okay.
Bob
I wouldn't worry about it if I were you.
-mike
-mike
"Transfer case - BorgWarner 2-speed full-time All-Wheel Drive (AWD) open differential (with optional StabiliTrak)"
as opposed to what regular Suburban without stabilitrak would have:
"Transfer case - Autotrac with electronic push-button controls (4x4 without StabiliTrak)"
It looks like this case is the same as what they put on AWD Yukon Denali , but It also has an 4Lo option. I saw someone wrote that the AWD on Denali is great, but it does not have the 4Lo option. So my question is: if do a lot of driving in the snow/ice mountain roads (I ski a lot) is it good to have that "open diff. with Stabilitrak and 4Lo button" or I'd be better off with their regular Autotrak case? .. meaning 2Hi, 4Hi/Lo and Auto 4WD? I do not do any offroad driving except for some deep snow sometimes.
Also, what that "2-speed open diff." really means? How does it split power among the four weels? is it 50/50? What if I get stuk in the snow? Accidentaly, the 05 Suburbans with Stabilitrak have regular case (with Autotrak), but Denalies still have the "open" one. Thanks for the info ...
AWD + 4-LO
2-speed open diff means that the case is 2-speed (AWD + 4-LO)
In AWD mode it will vary power F-R as it detects differences in driveshaft speeds.
With open diffys and stabilitrac it will apply the brake to the slipping wheel on a given axle to transfer power to the non slipping wheel.
That's actually a great system, one of the only downfalls to the Denali and Escalade systems is that it's only AWD w/o the low-range.
In 4-lo it will put 50/50 torque split F/R and will provide more torque to the wheels (low range)
-mike
Maybe it is because they think that people overwelmengly prefer locking rear diff. on a truck like that and do not get that in a very rare case you need it, either stabilitrak or 4Lo will do the job (I hope). Or maybe they just want to sell more Denalies ... must have huge profit margin
With a 2wd mode they can do all their EPA test in 2wd mode to raise their CAFE limits.
The part-time 4wd cases may be less expensive.
Peopel who want AWD will get the more expensive Denali/Escalade
-mike
One more thing..ABS..some AWD systems will have ABS disengaged when vehicle sense it need to kick in AWD mode to help the driver.... where will I be able to find this kind of info regarding to FX35 Thanks alot..
Z
Basically it doesn't "kick" in at all, on those it will vary power split from 0/100 up to 50/50 front rear. On my trooper it actually moved power F-R if a wheel was in ABS.
There isn't a whole lot of "official" information out there on AWD systems. Someone may have a FAQ on the FX on the web do some searching.
-mike
If the front and rear wheels are turning the same speed (as in a straight line, I know it's different while turning) won't the power be split 50/50?
No matter how you gear the front and back differently where you "split" the engine's output, another set of gears has to bring the speed of the front/back wheels to equal, also bringing the torque back to equal. Right?
Now, if the front and back wheels are different sizes, I understand that, because the wheel and the ground actually form the final gear ratio. But that doesn't apply to any production vehicle I've seen lately.
What am I missing?
MT Subarus
Toyotas
GMC Safari
Those essentially use a limited slip center diffy to equalize power F/R most of the other systems are electronic controlled clutch packs that vary the power front tor rear based on axle speed sensors that determine slip and apply or unapply clutches in the center differential to vary the power.
-mike
No. By that reasoning, a rear wheel drive vehicle with torque applied only to the rear wheels would also have to end up with a 50/50 power split. Obviously, that cannot happen.
What you left out was that both sets of wheels are coupled to the vehicle and the combined torques are accelerating the same mass. Even when the vehicle is not accelerating, a small amount of torque (from both sets of wheels) is required to maintain a given speed by offsetting the rolling friction between the tires and the road.
To make an analogy, imagine you and your young child (supposing you have one) are both pushing a car. Clearly you are applying unequal forces to the vehicle but the vehicle is moving at a single speed!
tidester, host
I am in a toss up between the Explorer, or the Mountaineer. Differences in looks aside I am still wondering about the 4wd system in the Explorer is better or worse with fuel consumption than the AWD system in the Mountaineer. Also, I live in Boston which is pothole city, so is the AWD rugged enough? I know is tuned for a slightly smoother ride but its still truck based so is there a great drop off in rigidity?
Thanks
-mike
-juice
As far as city pothole surfing, either vehicle can handle it (and they have the same suspensions).
The explorer has the advantage over the mountaineer if you want to go off-road.
But for city driving only, pick the best looking one. I like the Mountaineer-in Black w/chrome wheels.
-juice
-mike
-mike
-mike
Thank you.
Chris
Steve, Host
Hope this helps.
Toyota Ken
-mike
- a basic part-time (user-selectable) 2(R)WD / 4WD with low gear reduction
- a full-time 4WD (called TOD) with minimum 80-R / 20-F and up to 50 / 50, also with low gear mode. Selecting low gears automatically locks central dif to 50/50.
Low gear reduction is about 1:2.5 . Seems more serious than the 1:1.2 reduction ratio available on MT Subarus here....
Sounds interesting not ? Seems quite similar to Isuzu system ?
Do you know how the 4WD works on that vehicle ? Is the "Torque On Demand" system based on the analysis of multiple parameters or just detecting wheel slipping ?
-juice
Just make sure the 2 older tires are still safe.
-juice
The manual is confusing and I have seen conflicting info on this thread.
Please help Drew or any knowledgeable sole.
Thanks
Any thoughts?
-juice
-mike
Also, I've gotten mixed input on cost. The lsd from infiniti, or even an after market original parts outfit will cost around $1000 or more, then about $200 to install. For that price, I could go through 2 sets of all terrain tires, possibly a better way to go. But, I also found an online vendor (won't mention name) that has an lsd for the pathfinder (mechanically idential to Q) for $400. Haven't been able to get the low-down on differences in quality, workmanship, etc. Is it just the name I pay for when getting the infiniti part, or a substantial quality improvement? My goal is to have an SUV that is a great commuter car (well, gas mileage is ... OK) but is also a great vehicle for camping, kayaking and other excursions that could involve moderate off-road use. My suspicion is that I can achieve this goal by putting on a good set of all-terrain tires and possibly an lsd or locking differential. And, considering I'm in Florida, that may suit my purpose just as well as a 4wd would. Obviously, I don't want to put an unjustified sum of money into a car that maybe will be better off traded within the next 5 years. OTOH, one of these QX4s could be a vehicle that would go to 300-400K miles. I already have 120K on mine.
thanks for any input,
Stan
-mike
I'm not sure if they had traction control back then, but if so the rear axle is basically managed by the traction control. A mechanical LSD still would offer some advantages, but less so if you already have T/C.
-juice
-juice
That model has an open front diff. So it makes sense to me that the power would take the path of least resistance and "leak" to the one side, probably the one with less weight/traction.
But I'd expect one rear tire to spin as well, even with an open diff. Your AWD must be malfunctioning. It's not a serviceable item, though, so no fluids to check AFAIK.
I would put the better tires up front, since they do the steering. Better yet, change any that are bald, perhaps all 4 with some snows. Is there a budget for new tires?
Still doesn't explain the AWD malfunction, though. It should be shifting power to the rear axle when it senses slip in the front.
-juice