The wheels are Arospeed RS-11 wheels. 17x7 inch w/ a 40mm offset. They came w/ "Federal" 205/40/17 rubber. Got them off this website but apparently they don't sell them anymore. I got them for $799 including the tires, wheel locks, adapter, and the mounting and balancing.
Try searching around for the same wheels...maybe you can find some. I've also seen similar-designed wheels on websites before also.
Oh and by the way, according to the Miata.net tire size calculator, my speedometer is only off by .01%...which was what I was concerned about before getting some new wheels.
This Pro is a Canadian native that was bought in Toronto in May 2000 and three months later moved to sunny Florida. The only mods are the mud guards and four new Goodyear Regatta 2's. I'm thinking about a tail pipe garnish, but not much else. (It looks great right out of the showroom.)
The 2000 SE was the mid level model in Canada. There weren't many differences between the SE and the DX except the SE had the option of the rear spolier and the power moon roof and came with a CD-Radio, which the DX did not. Only the LX (which was actually the ES) had body colour trim.
Us northern folk like manual windows and door locks, nothing worse than listening to the electric motors strain in the cold while you're trying to order a double double at the Tim Horton's Drive Thru.
This changed in 2001, the DX was dropped and replaced with the SE as the entry model.
You know, there's less to go wrong in an 8-track deck than today's cassette players and CD changers. Heck, a slide-rule-dialed AM radio with one 4x10 speaker in the dash, like our 1980 Pontiac had, is about as rock-solid as you can get. (BTW, that car, designed in the Carter "trim everything" administration, was a four-door sedan -- but the rear windows didn't roll down at all -- they were fixed in their frames. Only thing on the inside of the back doors was a door handle and a door lock.)
While we're at it, let's trim a few other items that are only for lazy people and don't belong in a reliable car.
Bring back the trusty manual choke, like my dad's 1972 Volvo had. Oh, only need that with a carburetor? GREAT! Pull out that complicated multi-point fuel injection and put that round air filter tank back on top of my engine again. Don't forget that high-tech power steering, unnecessary a/c (don't need it up in the GWN anyway), and pull out those dangerous, useless air bags. Pretensioners in the seat belts? Hah!!! And don't get me started on ABS. Even maltb will have to agree that a replacement ABS unit in a Protege is close to $2,000. (I'm not kidding, btw.)
Power mirrors? C'mon! You set 'em and forget 'em. Why do you need to let little servos be used once and then sit idle for months or years?
Digital odometers? Don't mechanical ones record mileage just as well? OUT THEY GO!!!
If I still had my 1978 Corolla I might consider letting you trade your Protege for it ...
If there's a significant gain, I'll take it. Power windows, locks and moonroofs don't give that much benefit over the manual versions. And when they fail, the downside is pretty big (except in the locks, which can be manually over-ridden). Ever drive around in a rainstorm that seemed to pop up right after your power window or moonroof got stuck in the open position? I think the Ford Taurus is the only vehicle I've seen that provides a manual-override crank for the power moonroof (still not enough to make me get a Taurus). They also cost quite a lot to fix (up to about $500).
Other power items or more-complex mechanisms provide benefits that are real to me:
Power side mirrors make it much easier to set the far mirror (remember reaching over, guessing at where it's pointing and checking ad nauseum?). A big benefit. They can be overridden when they fail, although you have to jump some gear teeth to do so.
Now the airbags today are dangerous since they're sized for LAZY large men who refuse to wear their seat belts. If they won't resize them for average humans (150lb) who's wearing their seatbelt like they should, then I'd prefer they take them out.
Those "trusty" old radios were worse, not better than today's IC units, which are very reliable. They also don't cost that much to replace with a comparable unit (<$200) and is easily done in a few minutes.
A/C is almost a requirement where I live. If I could go without it, I would.
ABS? I could go without. Have so far.
And I do prefer a mechanical odometer. At least they don't drain the battery while I'm not using the car. Easier to read to IMO. The only reason the mechanical ones are gone is that they cost more than the digital ones.
FI can mean better efficiency and/or more power with cleaner emissions. Well-worth the added complexity over carburetors.
I'm not trying to be a throw-back. I'm just saying new and more-complex doesn't mean better.
"I think the Ford Taurus is the only vehicle I've seen that provides a manual-override crank for the power moonroof (still not enough to make me get a Taurus)."
My 1992 Protege LX did. So I assume the new ones do too?
"Those "trusty" old radios were worse, not better than today's IC units, which are very reliable. They also don't cost that much to replace with a comparable unit (
"BTW, you can be very good at goading people. "
I take pride in that. How do you think I keep riling up Vocus? ;-)
I am sure some electronic wizkid must have made a device that can be hacked into the wires to the digital ODO....and presto! you can get a reading of your very OWN choice, which was very difficult with analog ODO(usually left broken geartooth)
Analog radios didn't have screwed-up display problems.
And before anyone says anything about tapes jamming in older cassette decks -- My Protege's CD player had to be replaced because a CD would not eject. There was no way to even try to get it out manually. At least with a cassette deck you could either press a mechanical eject button or, worst case scenario, wedge a screwdriver or knife in the opening and, combined with the eject button, pry to jammed tape out without having to replace the whole unit!
You may be too young to have done this, but most people back in the 70s and early 80s who cared about audio didn't buy albums on the cheap crap cassettes they were recorded on -- they purchased the LP (that's that big, black vinyl round thing with grooves in it) and recorded their own tape, leaving the "master" album safe at home. Even though CDs have been out for about 15 years, dual CD decks and CD recorders are only now starting to become affordable. But many don't record copies of their CDs and just take their only copy along in the car. On the rare occasion I had a tape "eaten" in my cassette deck, I always had the record back home and I could re-record one on a new $2 tape. And by the way ... most people who had recurring problems with eaten tapes caused the problem themselves by not cleaning the deck's capstan, head and pinch roller regularly as was recommended. My cassette players got a monthly demag and Allsop cleaning, and all my records got a Discwashing before each play.
Another ripoff in this world -- CD cleaning kits. They're never touched by the player, and if you handle them correctly they never incur smudges or fingerprints.
Considering that you could rollback an analog speedo in 30 minutes with a small screwdriver before, that's a heck of an improvement. Anything can be defeated, but this just takes the ability to do so away from the common Joe.
The odos in my Hyundai and Mazda B2300 (Ford speedo head) were impossible to get to. The face and rear of the head unit were sealed. Trying to get in there would've been quite evident, even if you did succeed.
(BTW, I wasn't trying to break the law when I noticed this. I had the Hyundai's speedo cluster out because I was installing a tach in a blank place where the tach was in the higher model, and I had the B2300's out because (well, here we go with Ford Quality being Job One again) the speedometer crapped out after about 60,000 miles -- out of warranty of course.)
And Mike, there are PLENTY of other topics you can start! How about tires? Disk brakes? Mazda6 vs. 2003 Accord? (If you REALLY want a good argument, that's the place to go!!!) Or how long Paul's gonna keep his current car?
Malibu wagon (early 70s). No tape, just radio. Just died one day.
Pinto wagon. Knobs fell off, manual-set buttons started to drift (heck the whole tuner drifted). No tape player.
Firenza (Olds version of the GM J-car). Faceplate fell off. Knobs fell off. Tuner stopped working. Then tape player just stopped accepting tapes (I think some lever inside broke).
Cutlass Supreme. Tape player speed slow speed/low pitch...probably an off-spec motor or regulator. Radio still worked though.
Now let's see: '89 323 digitial stereo is still working fine, including the tape player. One backlight bulb is burned out though. '99 Protege digital stereo w/ optional tape player has zero problems. '91 Saturn digital stereo w/ tape (no CD) is still working fine.
From my experience: old stereos bad, new stereos good. Now, with ICs, MOSFETs, yes, they can go bad when you have bad components (and since there're more of them, there's more opportunity) and some are not tolerant of high temperatures or lots of vibration (usually solder joints break or connectors shake loose). These problems are usually due to poor design (specifying with too little safety-factor etc.), or poor build quality (just like anything else). However, the problems show up quickly (usually within the first 90 days of use). If you don't have a problem within that time frame, you'll likely have a good system for years.
I am sure I do not want to ever have to perform the level of maintenance on my stereos that you had to. Personally, I just want something with a radio that I can plug my iPod into. Aside from charging the battery, the iPod has no maintenance requirements.
I find mine to be well worth the money. I am currently shopping for a replacement head unit for my Protege with AUX input, so I can plug directly into the system. Currently, I am using one of those tape deck adapters. It sounds OK, but it is definitely a temporary fix. I would like to get a decent Kenwood CD receiver. Unfortunately, all of the ones with the AUX input also play MP3s, which is kind of redundant in my mind. I may consider another brand if anyone has opinions.
Even their none-MP3 decks have AUX input jacks. Standard 1/8in stereo plug. They're fairly inexpensive too, being the "bargain" brand that Sony makes.
I think they typically leave out stuff like Dolby NR and may not have as much power (45W v. 55W) as the Sony models. Specifications might be a little less audiophile too (lower signal-to-noise and more wow-and-flutter for tape mechanisms). Still, I have an Aiwa minisystem for my home entertainment system and three Aiwa boomboxes (one each for my wife, daughter and myself). But, I have a Sony portable CD player (longer battery life and slimmer packaging).
(btw - why is this in the Photo Gallery discussion? Just curious!)
Pioneer decks usually have an AUX input, in the form of a L/R Line-In RCA jack pari in the back. I have a 1/8th-to-RCA-stereo cable permanently connected to my deck, so I can plug it into anything I bring into the car, that has a headphone or 1/8 Line Out.
Of course, I don't ever use it any more, nor the CD-changer I installed - ever since I installed XM Radio :-) Although if I owned an MP3 player (not iPOD - too expensive for what it offers, better choices exist, IMHO!) might just tempt me to connect the cable and start using it again!
Another advantage of Pioneer is that any head unit with a 'P' in the model name/number can support the Pioneer IP-Bus - which is the best current option in terms of quality and value for money to add an XM Radio unit and/or a CD changer (6/12/50) to your audio system.
Don't have to run a stereo to RCA cable from behind the head unit to the front of the central stack. Pioneer's a good brand too. Aiwa makes it easier to use an external portable source (like a Minidisc or MP3 player).
You could also try Radio Shack's iRock FM transmitter, which plugs into your portable's line-out or headphone jack. You then tune your car stereo to the transmission frequency. Of course, then you're going to get a lower signal-to-noise ratio than with a wired connection.
And this is an interesting place for this discussion. Oh well, maybe the other boards were down at the time.
"You know, there's less to go wrong in an 8-track deck than today's cassette players and CD changers. Heck, a slide-rule-dialed AM radio with one 4x10 speaker in the dash, like our 1980 Pontiac had, is about as rock-solid as you can get..."
I simply meant your prolific posts make it hard to determine where any topic starts since you post on any and every topic.
I recall fasterthanu stating some garbage about all the Mazda6 pictures being from the perfect perspective to make it look good. Well, here are some pics I took with my ancient digicam that are in no way glamorous yet they still look good. Check out the production tail lights too.
Too bad that one discussion was shut down because too many posters were making personal attacks. Some people just like to stir up trouble for its own sake.
Comments
Try searching around for the same wheels...maybe you can find some. I've also seen similar-designed wheels on websites before also.
Oh and by the way, according to the Miata.net tire size calculator, my speedometer is only off by .01%...which was what I was concerned about before getting some new wheels.
This Pro is a Canadian native that was bought in Toronto in May 2000 and three months later moved to sunny Florida. The only mods are the mud guards and four new Goodyear Regatta 2's. I'm thinking about a tail pipe garnish, but not much else. (It looks great right out of the showroom.)
Meade
Meade
Us northern folk like manual windows and door locks, nothing worse than listening to the electric motors strain in the cold while you're trying to order a double double at the Tim Horton's Drive Thru.
This changed in 2001, the DX was dropped and replaced with the SE as the entry model.
While we're at it, let's trim a few other items that are only for lazy people and don't belong in a reliable car.
Bring back the trusty manual choke, like my dad's 1972 Volvo had. Oh, only need that with a carburetor? GREAT! Pull out that complicated multi-point fuel injection and put that round air filter tank back on top of my engine again. Don't forget that high-tech power steering, unnecessary a/c (don't need it up in the GWN anyway), and pull out those dangerous, useless air bags. Pretensioners in the seat belts? Hah!!! And don't get me started on ABS. Even maltb will have to agree that a replacement ABS unit in a Protege is close to $2,000. (I'm not kidding, btw.)
Power mirrors? C'mon! You set 'em and forget 'em. Why do you need to let little servos be used once and then sit idle for months or years?
Digital odometers? Don't mechanical ones record mileage just as well? OUT THEY GO!!!
If I still had my 1978 Corolla I might consider letting you trade your Protege for it ...
Meade
Other power items or more-complex mechanisms provide benefits that are real to me:
Power side mirrors make it much easier to set the far mirror (remember reaching over, guessing at where it's pointing and checking ad nauseum?). A big benefit. They can be overridden when they fail, although you have to jump some gear teeth to do so.
Now the airbags today are dangerous since they're sized for LAZY large men who refuse to wear their seat belts. If they won't resize them for average humans (150lb) who's wearing their seatbelt like they should, then I'd prefer they take them out.
Those "trusty" old radios were worse, not better than today's IC units, which are very reliable. They also don't cost that much to replace with a comparable unit (<$200) and is easily done in a few minutes.
A/C is almost a requirement where I live. If I could go without it, I would.
ABS? I could go without. Have so far.
And I do prefer a mechanical odometer. At least they don't drain the battery while I'm not using the car. Easier to read to IMO. The only reason the mechanical ones are gone is that they cost more than the digital ones.
FI can mean better efficiency and/or more power with cleaner emissions. Well-worth the added complexity over carburetors.
I'm not trying to be a throw-back. I'm just saying new and more-complex doesn't mean better.
BTW, you can be very good at goading people.
Actually, it's for fraud. Try rolling back an LCD screen. As far as battery drain goes; it's negligible.
My 1992 Protege LX did. So I assume the new ones do too?
"Those "trusty" old radios were worse, not better than today's IC units, which are very reliable. They also don't cost that much to replace with a comparable unit (
"BTW, you can be very good at goading people.
I take pride in that. How do you think I keep riling up Vocus? ;-)
Meade
http://www.imakenews.com/thomasb69/e_article000056511.cfm
And here's an actual unit I found for sale in the UK:
http://www.de-crypt.com/products/d1_soft.htm
Meade
J/K!
BTW, the radio works fine....it's just the LCD display that gets bunged up.
And before anyone says anything about tapes jamming in older cassette decks -- My Protege's CD player had to be replaced because a CD would not eject. There was no way to even try to get it out manually. At least with a cassette deck you could either press a mechanical eject button or, worst case scenario, wedge a screwdriver or knife in the opening and, combined with the eject button, pry to jammed tape out without having to replace the whole unit!
Meade
You may be too young to have done this, but most people back in the 70s and early 80s who cared about audio didn't buy albums on the cheap crap cassettes they were recorded on -- they purchased the LP (that's that big, black vinyl round thing with grooves in it) and recorded their own tape, leaving the "master" album safe at home. Even though CDs have been out for about 15 years, dual CD decks and CD recorders are only now starting to become affordable. But many don't record copies of their CDs and just take their only copy along in the car. On the rare occasion I had a tape "eaten" in my cassette deck, I always had the record back home and I could re-record one on a new $2 tape. And by the way ... most people who had recurring problems with eaten tapes caused the problem themselves by not cleaning the deck's capstan, head and pinch roller regularly as was recommended. My cassette players got a monthly demag and Allsop cleaning, and all my records got a Discwashing before each play.
Another ripoff in this world -- CD cleaning kits. They're never touched by the player, and if you handle them correctly they never incur smudges or fingerprints.
Meade
Meade
Considering that you could rollback an analog speedo in 30 minutes with a small screwdriver before, that's a heck of an improvement. Anything can be defeated, but this just takes the ability to do so away from the common Joe.
I'm bored of this topic...start a new one!
(BTW, I wasn't trying to break the law when I noticed this. I had the Hyundai's speedo cluster out because I was installing a tach in a blank place where the tach was in the higher model, and I had the B2300's out because (well, here we go with Ford Quality being Job One again) the speedometer crapped out after about 60,000 miles -- out of warranty of course.)
Meade
:-o
Meade
Malibu wagon (early 70s). No tape, just radio. Just died one day.
Pinto wagon. Knobs fell off, manual-set buttons started to drift (heck the whole tuner drifted). No tape player.
Firenza (Olds version of the GM J-car). Faceplate fell off. Knobs fell off. Tuner stopped working. Then tape player just stopped accepting tapes (I think some lever inside broke).
Cutlass Supreme. Tape player speed slow speed/low pitch...probably an off-spec motor or regulator. Radio still worked though.
Now let's see: '89 323 digitial stereo is still working fine, including the tape player. One backlight bulb is burned out though.
'99 Protege digital stereo w/ optional tape player has zero problems. '91 Saturn digital stereo w/ tape (no CD) is still working fine.
From my experience: old stereos bad, new stereos good. Now, with ICs, MOSFETs, yes, they can go bad when you have bad components (and since there're more of them, there's more opportunity) and some are not tolerant of high temperatures or lots of vibration (usually solder joints break or connectors shake loose). These problems are usually due to poor design (specifying with too little safety-factor etc.), or poor build quality (just like anything else). However, the problems show up quickly (usually within the first 90 days of use). If you don't have a problem within that time frame, you'll likely have a good system for years.
I am sure I do not want to ever have to perform the level of maintenance on my stereos that you had to. Personally, I just want something with a radio that I can plug my iPod into. Aside from charging the battery, the iPod has no maintenance requirements.
I think they typically leave out stuff like Dolby NR and may not have as much power (45W v. 55W) as the Sony models. Specifications might be a little less audiophile too (lower signal-to-noise and more wow-and-flutter for tape mechanisms). Still, I have an Aiwa minisystem for my home entertainment system and three Aiwa boomboxes (one each for my wife, daughter and myself). But, I have a Sony portable CD player (longer battery life and slimmer packaging).
Pioneer decks usually have an AUX input, in the form of a L/R Line-In RCA jack pari in the back. I have a 1/8th-to-RCA-stereo cable permanently connected to my deck, so I can plug it into anything I bring into the car, that has a headphone or 1/8 Line Out.
Of course, I don't ever use it any more, nor the CD-changer I installed - ever since I installed XM Radio :-) Although if I owned an MP3 player (not iPOD - too expensive for what it offers, better choices exist, IMHO!) might just tempt me to connect the cable and start using it again!
Another advantage of Pioneer is that any head unit with a 'P' in the model name/number can support the Pioneer IP-Bus - which is the best current option in terms of quality and value for money to add an XM Radio unit and/or a CD changer (6/12/50) to your audio system.
You could also try Radio Shack's iRock FM transmitter, which plugs into your portable's line-out or headphone jack. You then tune your car stereo to the transmission frequency. Of course, then you're going to get a lower signal-to-noise ratio than with a wired connection.
And this is an interesting place for this discussion. Oh well, maybe the other boards were down at the time.
Meade
You may not have started it per se, but you post so prolifically, it is hard to prove otherwise.
Here's my proof: I started it in post 111. ;-)
Meade
"You know, there's less to go wrong in an 8-track deck than today's cassette players and CD changers. Heck, a slide-rule-dialed AM radio with one 4x10 speaker in the dash, like our 1980 Pontiac had, is about as rock-solid as you can get..."
I simply meant your prolific posts make it hard to determine where any topic starts since you post on any and every topic.
C'mon, I thought you were having some fun, so I responded in the same manner! There's no reason to get haughty about it!
Meade
Meade
-lovetrain
Brother Meade
http://bilder.autobild.de/bilder/1/8061.jpg
Mazda6 pics
and why does that one have the clear taillights??
Too bad that one discussion was shut down because too many posters were making personal attacks. Some people just like to stir up trouble for its own sake.
Kind of a natural progression of an internet bulletin board, I'd say (a bad one at that