I havent needed to get the switch but i have read alot abou it. Looks like the pirce has gone up since the last time I checked. Must be a popular item???
Description for Part Number: 15709327 SWITCH Your Price: $40.59 Core Charge: $0.00 List Price: $58.95 Total Price: $40.59 gmpartszoneonline
I have a 99 Silverado Extended Cab. I broke the right side rear side window latch. Does anyone know where I can find one without using a junkyard or a dealer???
The plastic lid on my center console that you use to write on snapped off. I have a 99' GMC Sierra 1500. I am wondering if anybody knows where to get a replacement lid. Thanks
Can somebody tell me if it is possible to retrofit the steering wheel mounted buttons on a late model Silverado pickup? It so happens that these are not just redundant radio controls, but also Driver Information Center (DIC) buttons, that enable one to display average MPG, etc., and to program door lock delays, headlamps delays, etc. Trucks without these steering wheel buttons do not have these features. GM does not offer a retrofit kit. The retail price of a steering wheel with the buttons is about $ 490 without the airbag (possibly around $ 380 with decent discounts). My questions are: Are there any additional components that would need to be purchased or does the button type steering wheel harness plug directly into the existing programming module? And how difficult would it be to remove the air bag from the old steering wheel and place it into the new steering wheel? Is any special programming required?.
I don't know about the radio lamps, but the lamps for the HVAC Control Buttons can be purchased on the internet from TopBulb.com these mini lamps are soldered on a circuit board in the HVAC control module, that can be removed and easily taken apart, and the burned out lamps unsoldered and the replacements soldered in. that is if you have a soldering iron, and some solder wick to remove the existing solder. The Part Number for the lamps is OL-3229BPE. From: http://www.TopBulb.com Item Number: OL-3229BPE Product Description: MINIATURE LAMP
Hello, I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado crew cab z71 4wd.I have started the task of searching for a 6" or 8" lift kit (it has become a real pain).I was wondering if anyone in the known world has had any good or bad expericences with different brands (whiplash, fabtech, superlift etc.etc.) I would greatly appreciate any help on this issue! Oh by the way it needs to be able to go off the pavement when the lift is done (haha) it is not a show truck more of a daily driver.
I had the same issue with a 2002 silverado that was showing a reduction in MPG and we replaced the 100K plugs that lasted for 65K and added STP fuel injector cleaner and it came back up to where it was supposed to be.I would also check the O2 sensors just to make sure they are ok.
Thanks for the reply. I asked the same question over on the 'Maintenance & Repair > Questions About Fuel Systems' thread and besides plugs 'alcan' suggested plug wires, air filter, PCV valve, and fuel filter be replaced. I've purchased everything except PCV valve and plug wires. After searching around a few places I finally resorted to a trip to the dealer to find out that this engine doesn't use a PCV valve. I haven't looked into how they manage the crank case gases yet but that's fine with me. With the plug wires, I would never buy OEM from the dealer. I was hoping to find a custom-made upgrade (Moroso,MSD,Accel) but so far it looks like a vain wish. Finding after market stuff for the 8.1L is like shopping tennies for King Kong. From what I've seen NAPA or Bosch (AutoZone) appear to be pretty good quality. AutoZone has a life time warranty which means free replacement. For plugs I chose NGK TR55IR Iridium (.059 gap), $6.95. Cheapest I could find Denso Iridium online was 11.99. 'D' day is set for next week-end. After a couple of tanks I'll post results if anyone's interested.
-David
BTW- What exactly do you mean by "check the O2 sensors"? What's the best method? Thanks for the help.
I have a 1988 GMC Sierra 1500. Engine is a 350. I keep on losing my belt. I have put on a new alternator, idler, pulley tensioner and pulley. numerous belts. the alignment of all the pulleys is perfect. any ideas????
What replacement belt are you using? Stay away from cheap belts sold by discount auto parts stores. Such belts are junk and will cause you problems. Make sure you tension the new belt correctly. Do not overtension, this may cause bigger problems than just the belt breaking. When you say you keep losing the belt, do you mean the belt breaks or comes loose? I assume you have one serpentine belt.
BTW Gates Co. makes good belts, NAPA sells them. Or get one from your GM dealer. OEM belts are usually decent quality. You pay more for them, but it will be worth it.
Check your pulleys for grease contamination, andy sharp burrs, glazed surfaces,etc. If the pulley running surfaces are glazed, use emery cloth to roughen the surface lightly. Check the tensioner pulley and its bearing. The tensioner pulley may need replacing. A bad tensioner pulley bearing will cause rapid belt wear.
has anyone heard of the new DUB~air intakes? They are constructed of polished Stainless Steel and have a polished SS cold air box too! We manufacture them, but since they are somewhat new in the market, I wanted to share the wealth of knowledge! if you want some pics or for more information: zachg@avanche.com
Good looking system, should perform well for you. Now to figure out how to convince the wife I need a new Magnaflow system on the '06 Dakota!!! Seems to be hard to convince a wife of the need to put any sort of part on a new truck with only 1200 miles...
Yea my gf was leary but after riding in it she likes it. Thinks it sounds much better than stock. I wish I would have done this sooner. Oh well live and learn
True. Supposedly 3" single is best for performance. My Wife still doesn't understand why I have to take a perfectly good muffler off a brand new truck.
I would like to buy a new 2005 Z71 extended cab 4X4 with the standard bed. I want the light duty power package that includes the 5.3 engine and the heavy duty trailer package. I would like information about the different engine types, cast iron block 295 HP (LM7), the high output aluminum block at 310 HP(LM4), and the high output 310 HP flexible fuel (L59). Which engine is the more reliable of the above 3 engine types. I understand that the L59 has some modifications to use hardened materials for the intake valves, intake and exhaust valve seats due to the corrosive nature of ethanol. There are also some additional sensors to adjust timing and spark advance to account for different fuel types. I currently can not find any stations that sell E85 in the north east. I see some private fueling stations in Staten Island. Maybe local gas stations will start selling Ethanol blends in the near future. It may be an advantage to get this engine unless the additional technology is problematic.
Is it worth the extra complexity or should I stick with the LM4 or LM7? Of these two which will give me better value?
I also need some information about the rear axle gear ratio. There no longer seems to be an option to get the 3.73 axle. How much gas mileage will I sacrifice if I go with the 4.1 rear axle ratio vs the standard 3.42 rear axle? I understand the 4.1 would be better for towing but I only intend on towing a pop-up (2,000 - 3,000 lbs). Will I be disappointed with the 3.42 rear axle?
I do not know enough about the engines to give you a good answer,but I would bet that the LM7 would be the simplest and most durable design.
About the gears - 3.73:1 ratio IS available on 2005 and 2006 trucks, but it is an optional ratio. In 2004, 3.73:1 was standard on Z71 trucks, and that was changed to 3.42:1 on 05's and 06's. I would recommend 3.73:1 ratio for a simple reason: Better off-the-line acceleration and good compromise between 3.42 and 4.11. Better for towing too. These trucks run in 4 th gear most of the time at very low RPM (about 2000 at 65 MPH) with 3.73 axle ratio.
If you go to gm.com, select Chevrolet, then click on "locate a vehicle" you can search the inventory of any dealer within 100 mile radius. You will find a truck with 3.73 rear end, but there will not be that many. most do come with 3.42 axle ratio.
My Dad's 2004 Silverado 4x4 has a cracked passenger side mirror. It has the remote adjust, remote fold in, and the turn signal light (I think it may have the heated mirror also). I have been told both that just the glass can be changed and that the whole mirror assembly needs to be changed. Does anyone know if we can just change the glass and if so what is the procedure to remove the glass and reinstall the new one. Thanks
I had the plastic cover of my side view mirror crack (99 Z-71) Chevy wanted an arm and a leg to replace - can't recall exact amount - but it was over $200 (maybe $$250 installed)
I ordered one from this site for $70.00 it took about a week to get it and about 2 minutes to install.
Its not a GM part - made by KOOL-VUE (Taiwan) but it looks exactly like the one I took off.
I just ordered a replacement mirror glass today. $107.00 plus shipping, it has the signal and heat. Hopefully I can figure out how to put it in when I see how it is made. If I can't handle it I have a local mechanic who will put it in for less than $26.00.
Hello all, I have just bought a 1995 Silverado ext cab 4x4, 5.7L The previous owner put 285/75/R16 tires on it. I have noted that stock size is 265/75/R16. How much is this "throwing things off" (speedo, shift points, etc?) I vaguely remember something about a "tire calibration module" or something behind the dash that you remove "tabs" from for tire size/speedometer correction?? Is this correct? Or am I thinking of something else, like maybe (gulp) a Ford or Dodge? Thanks in advance...
Your speed will be actually be 3.7% faster than your speedo says.
So if your speedo says 60 MPH you are going about 62.2 MPH.
My truck came stock with 265 75 16 and I put the 285 75 16 on - never messed with changing my speedo or shift points.
I have a hand help GPS that has a readout for speed over ground. I checked the speedo before I made the change - my speedo was off a little with stock tires. The larger tires made it closer to being correct.
I own a 03 silverado ext cab 2wd I want a more aggresive look without using a lift kit. What's the biggest sized tires I can use on stock rims without major rubbing. And can I level it out adjusting the torsion bar's?
Recently began this symptom of backfiring thru the TBI under load (going up a grade). Sometimes severe, sometimes just once. Cap and rotor changed but no no change in the symptom. Drives okay cruising, idles fine, no SES light or codes.
Just wondering how much of a pain in the pickle it is gonna be to replace. Do I have to dis-connect the ball-joint, etc, or can I sneek the axle out without going through all that? How is the bolt flange removed? Any "special" tools needed to do this job? Thanks in advance...
Comments
Description for Part Number: 15709327
SWITCH
Your Price: $40.59 Core Charge: $0.00 List Price: $58.95
Total Price: $40.59
gmpartszoneonline
Do you know if this switch needs to be "re-programmed" when you replace it, or can you just install it and that's all?
-David
From: http://www.TopBulb.com
Item Number: OL-3229BPE
Product Description: MINIATURE LAMP
I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado crew cab z71 4wd.I have started the task of searching for a 6" or 8" lift kit (it has become a real pain).I was wondering if anyone in the known world has had any good or bad expericences with different brands (whiplash, fabtech, superlift etc.etc.) I would greatly appreciate any help on this issue! Oh by the way it needs to be able to go off the pavement when the lift is done (haha) it is not a show truck more of a daily driver.
Thanks,
Phil
Later,
05Z71
I asked the same question over on the 'Maintenance & Repair > Questions About Fuel Systems' thread and besides plugs 'alcan' suggested plug wires, air filter, PCV valve, and fuel filter be replaced. I've purchased everything except PCV valve and plug wires. After searching around a few places I finally resorted to a trip to the dealer to find out that this engine doesn't use a PCV valve. I haven't looked into how they manage the crank case gases yet but that's fine with me. With the plug wires, I would never buy OEM from the dealer. I was hoping to find a custom-made upgrade (Moroso,MSD,Accel) but so far it looks like a vain wish. Finding after market stuff for the 8.1L is like shopping tennies for King Kong. From what I've seen NAPA or Bosch (AutoZone) appear to be pretty good quality. AutoZone has a life time warranty which means free replacement. For plugs I chose NGK TR55IR Iridium (.059 gap), $6.95. Cheapest I could find Denso Iridium online was 11.99. 'D' day is set for next week-end. After a couple of tanks I'll post results if anyone's interested.
-David
BTW- What exactly do you mean by "check the O2 sensors"? What's the best method? Thanks for the help.
thanks!
BTW Gates Co. makes good belts, NAPA sells them. Or get one from your GM dealer. OEM belts are usually decent quality. You pay more for them, but it will be worth it.
Check your pulleys for grease contamination, andy sharp burrs, glazed surfaces,etc. If the pulley running surfaces are glazed, use emery cloth to roughen the surface lightly. Check the tensioner pulley and its bearing. The tensioner pulley may need replacing. A bad tensioner pulley bearing will cause rapid belt wear.
Thanks
$45.25
Non-NC Residents Total:
$45.25
Sales Tax (NC Only):
$2.47
NC Residents Total:
$47.72
GMPARTSDIRECT
Rolled the windows down though. A brisk 40 degrees
This is the magnaflow tip (#35157)
Exhaust not great (magnaflow #14589 SS 22")
Merry Christmas everyone and happy new year !!!
Ryan
Which engine is the more reliable of the above 3 engine types. I understand that the L59 has some modifications to use hardened materials for the intake valves, intake and exhaust valve seats due to the corrosive nature of ethanol.
There are also some additional sensors to adjust timing and spark advance to account for different fuel types. I currently can not find any stations that sell E85 in the north east. I see some private fueling stations in Staten Island. Maybe local gas stations will start selling Ethanol blends in the near future. It may be an advantage to get this engine
unless the additional technology is problematic.
Is it worth the extra complexity or should I stick with the LM4 or LM7? Of these two which will give me better value?
I also need some information about the rear axle gear ratio. There no longer seems to be an option to get the 3.73 axle. How much gas mileage will I sacrifice if I go with the 4.1 rear axle ratio vs the standard 3.42 rear axle? I understand the 4.1 would be better for towing but I only intend on towing a pop-up (2,000 - 3,000 lbs). Will I be disappointed with the 3.42 rear axle?
About the gears - 3.73:1 ratio IS available on 2005 and 2006 trucks, but it is an optional ratio. In 2004, 3.73:1 was standard on Z71 trucks, and that was changed to 3.42:1 on 05's and 06's. I would recommend 3.73:1 ratio for a simple reason: Better off-the-line acceleration and good compromise between 3.42 and 4.11. Better for towing too. These trucks run in 4 th gear most of the time at very low RPM (about 2000 at 65 MPH) with 3.73 axle ratio.
If you go to gm.com, select Chevrolet, then click on "locate a vehicle" you can search the inventory of any dealer within 100 mile radius. You will find a truck with 3.73 rear end, but there will not be that many. most do come with 3.42 axle ratio.
I ordered one from this site for $70.00 it took about a week to get it and about 2 minutes to install.
Its not a GM part - made by KOOL-VUE (Taiwan) but it looks exactly like the one I took off.
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Mirrors/ChevyTruck/Silverado/-/-/1
So if your speedo says 60 MPH you are going about 62.2 MPH.
My truck came stock with 265 75 16 and I put the 285 75 16 on - never messed with changing my speedo or shift points.
I have a hand help GPS that has a readout for speed over ground. I checked the speedo before I made the change - my speedo was off a little with stock tires. The larger tires made it closer to being correct.
Any pointers out there?
Thanks in advance...