Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

noobie1

Drop the steering wheel to the lowest position; Move the shift lever all the way down. Pull the ash tray out in order to get a good grip on the bezel (trim piece). Pull straight out with a firm yank in the lower right hand corner. That should be enough to unseat the first clip. After that go up to the next clip and with finger tips behind the bezel repeat the yank. You may need to pad your fingers with a rag. That back edge is pretty sharp. Work your way across the top and down the other side. Once you get all the clips dislodged just pull the whole thing straight back toward you. Be sure not to loose any of the little rubber bumpers on the posts on the back side of the bezel. They prevent squeaks. And, re installing it just requires aligning it correctly before snapping it back in place. It's easy. It takes more time to write it out than to actually do it.

-David

whatsachevy

I can't figure out how to post actual pics or create a link, but here is the address of some pics of my 2500HD with 285's.

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&uid=526167&gid=747605&

whatsachevy

I guess I do know how to create a link!

stevo

Just traded in my '00 z71 for an '03 z71.

I'd like to improve the ride a bit. Has anyone changed their shocks and noticed a better ride?

I'd appreciate anyone's suggestions. Thanks

noobie1

My truck is a 2500HD. Bilsteins improved the ride a bit, but only a bit. In my view, without consideration to longevity, they're over priced and over rated. (But with due respect to others, some people here like'em.)

whatsa;
Nice pics. Have you tried using chains with those tires? It looks pretty tight.

-David

minikin

I don't pretend to understand the nuances of GM's computer programming, but shift points and ABS behavior are dependent on tire size. More properly, they're dependent on effective gear ratio and changing tire sizes changes that without the proper programming. The shift points are easy; that puts you in the wrong place on the torque curve or something else the system cares about. I haven't been able to reason out the ABS, but I know the effect is there.
-- Don

ryanbab

Went from the stock tennecos to bilsteins at 20K miles. I now have 31 and have to say the shocks were one of the best (along with the tires) upgrades i have done. It actually makes the truck feel like a truck

As far as overpriced and overrated? Not at all. I got mine for $216 and now that i have them I would have paid more for them if they cost more.

minikin

I completely agree with you, even though I went with Edelbrock. Changing the shocks was second only to upgrading the tires; and I could have lived with the tires if if I didn't have to deal with extreme cold and snow. Third was the HP III.
-- Don

obyone

bilsteins. One shock off the first set of edelbrock's leaked and they offered to replace all four...dam. Ride was a little stiff though excellent handling at freeway speeds. Sold the second set and bought a set of bilstein HD which give a much smoother ride.

Now I get to test the major guard extended warranty as my rack has sprung a leak. I called major guard and they said no problem just take it to a GM dealership. I asked whether it be a Chevy or GMC made no difference to them...so off it went to my Denali dealership...who's service advisor stated, we'll work on it and just curious as to why you brought it here versus your or any Chevy dealership. I jokingly answered I understand that GMC's have lock washers. Receiving a puzzled look, I told him the Chevy dealership has a new service manager...a young, gungho, company man who denies everything under the sun to increase his P&L. The advisor understood. Only problem is the rack is backordered and the wait is two weeks. I wonder how much p/s fluid I'll go through by then?

bmaige

I've never owned a Chevy or GMC truck before, but I am looking for a truck that will pull a load and that can be used for a family vehicle when not working. I'm considering diesels right now, and the Duramax has been out long enough to get a short track record, anyway. I'd like to get some input on it and the manual transmissions linked to it as far as longevity is concerned. If I spend what a new truck costs today on something I expect it to LAST.

noobie1

It's too bad you can't try on new shocks the way you can new boots. Sounds like Edelbrocks would have been a better choice for me. As far as tires? I agree. My HD had 10 ply's. The new 8's took a lot of the rock hard harshness out of the ride, especially off road. I was surprised by the difference.

-David

revker

nice truck, mine's just like yours. 2002 2500HD LT 4x4 ext. cab 4.10gears. i still have the stock tires on it. i've already put on 25000miles since i took delivery 9/17/01. i'd like to upgrade to a taller tire. what size tire you have there, seems pretty tight. did you have to adj. the torsion bars or make any mods to fit those tires. how's it like on bumpy roads, or sharp parking lot turns. does it hit the wheel wells?

ricsch

Anyone know the proper size and type of thread for the grease zerks on the Silverado/Sierra trucks? Found out on my '03 that one is directly below the a/c compressor and accessibility would be easier with a 90 degree zerk. Also, with the lower ball joints being sealed, is it wise to use a grease needle to lube them?

Also, noticed the battery wasn't held securely in place-the front edge of the battery tray needed to be bent in towards the battery to keep it secure. Noticed it on another '03 so I would think most are like this.

ryanbab

i am pretty sure (99%) they are 6mm

scotthemi

I've got a 2000 2500 4x4 Silverado that I bought new in 2000. This weekend, I was pulling a 12ft utility trailer with a 400lb 4-wheeler on it. During my trip, the truck started shifting real hard, almost like it was slamming between gears and seemingly lunging forward. When it started happening, I thought the 4-wheeler was shifting around causing the the feeling I was experiencing.

After I got home and unhooked the trailer, I went for a little drive to test it out, and the problem was still happening. The next day (Sunday) I took it out and the problem no longer existed. Also drove fine today.

Now, I've experienced a "clunking" sound that seemed to be from the transmission before, and as odd is this sounds, it always seems to happen when I'm driving in a reasonably heavy rain, but it's never been as bad as it was Saturday.

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to be as descriptive as possible. Does anyone have a clue what could be happening?

Thanks.

jpfltaw

happened again for the 4th time. For 15 min. truck would not start. Turn the key and get a spin and sputter stop from the engine, tried the old open the airbox routine and that didn't work. So I sat there, in the rain for 10 min. trying to get it to start.

That did not help this cold I have been trying to shake , all day Sat and Sun in the rain hitching up the trailer loading and unloading the lawn tractor.

Then after a 5 min rest, turned the key and Y E S . What is the problem ? The hell if I know, but if I had not parked behind my dad's 87 Taurus I would have just left it and used the ford. That thing sits for weeks, but starts everytime you turn the key. I only keep it for sentimental reasons.

After it started the security light came on, but then it always come on when start up or when driving.

2000 Silverado 5.3 xcab

whatsachevy

That's why I like mud tires. If you get stuck with them, you'd better have some good friends or one hell of a winch!

Revker: Tires are 285/75/16 on 16x8 rims. I cranked the torsion bars about 4 turns (raised front about 3/4") and still had to trim the plastic wheel wells toward the front of the truck. I still get a slight rub on the rear of the left front fender well when turning all the way to the left (would have to reroute the emergency brake cable - and the rub isn't bad enough to mess with that). No problem with the rear clearance. I have read others with 285 A/T's that don't rub with no mods. It may be the more aggressive side tread of the mud tires that causes the rub (or the 8" wide rims). As far as the ride, it rides like a 3/4-ton truck. I don't expect a car-like ride with no rattles like some others do. I will say one thing, and it probably isn't a fair comparison, but this is 10 times the truck my '91 F-150 was.

ricsch

for the info on the grease fitting size.

owenm1

revker,

I have the Dunlop Radial Rover R/T's 265's on my 2500HD/ext cab/4x4/LB/4:10's/Allison/8.1

send me an email: omcniff@shinbiro.com

if you'd like to see pics

Owen

lspangler1

Anybody notice that the "shakerado" is now on Consumer's "Recommended" list? I suppose this means the truck isn't worth buying. I've put 3,000 miles on my '03 1500HD in the last month and haven't had a hiccup yet. The only thing I noticed is that if the rear outboard seatbelts aren't stuck behind the backrest, the buckles bounce off the cab wall and drive me crazy. Easily remedied but a pain if you have occasional passengers in back.

I really like the interior changes for '03.

sonjaab

HEY ! Long time no post....Hows your 2500
truck doing ? Is it still the only one
in Korea or are you stateside now ?
Any problems or issues with it?...geo

markw8

Your hard starting and security light coming on are both the same problem. I had this with my 00-2500. I think they changed the ignition switch to fix it. This was over a year ago and no more problems since. Mark

topsail33

#2349 of 2422 Auto Headlight feature by rayt2 Oct 30, 2002 (12:07 pm)
My Y2K override feature works fine , push dome light button in 3 times and it cancels the auto feature. It resets everytime you restart the truck however. I thought 99's were the same way, maybe not.

Ray T.

Ray - I had a '99 Grand Am w/ auto headlights and there wasn't a damned thing I could do about them; apparently in '99 GM didn't realize that there are times when you don't want them coming on (like pulling up to a guard gate at a secure facility). I thought about popping out that eye in the defrost vent and bypassing it, but never did.

topsail33

I'm getting ready to replace the P24575R16's on my '00 Silverado... One person told me if I put LT tires on it, it would ride much rougher because the suspension is set up for P tires. How much rougher?

Also, I want to go with 265's : any reccomendations on brand? I like Michelin's, but I don't like their price.

Thanks - Mark

rayt2

LT (light truck)tires have more plys making them a stiffer tire over "P" (passenger rated) I don't know about the suspension being rated differently other than between 2 w.d. and 4 w.d. or a 3/4 ton truck.
I have 35k on my Steeltex 245's and expect another 10k before replacement. I'm not to anal about tires, I mean it is a truck after all.

Ray T.

z71bill

You will not notice much difference between a
P265 75 16 and a LT 265 75 16 tire if you stay with the same tire pressure. The LT tire will (normally) allow a higher PSI. For example the P265 75 16 Firestone tires that came on my Z-71 have a max of 44 PSI, most LT rated 265 75 16's will be rated up to 50 PSI. IMO I would still run the same tire pressure regardless of P or LT (some will disagree, but they are FOS!) Unless I was caring a big load that is.

One thing that is a little strange - the P265 has a higher load rating at 44 PSI than an LT265 (load range C)at 50PSI. Not sure why.

You will find many LT tires in this size - only a few P rated.

mledtje

I swapped the P245s on my Silverado for LT 'C' rated 245s. No noticeable difference in ride. When I got new tires for my 2500 I put the LT 'E' rated 245s on the Silverado. It may be slightly firmer, but it is a truck and now I can load it up and not worry about the tires.

The original P245s were Goodyears, and they seemed to wallow in the corners (sidewall flexing?). I like the solid feeling of the LT245s.

The suspension is the same for either tire type.

Mike L

obyone

First the rack leaks and now the a/c is gone. Thank goodness for Major Guard. Seems at this point I can't live without it.....

ryanbab

A/C??? I dont think ive used that in 2 yrs

zenfulness

I have just put a deposit down for the 03 GMC 2500 HD SLT 4X4, 6.0, and all the bells and whistles. I was a die hard Ford fan for work vans. Until I bought a 02 Tahoe LT 4X4, with all the fun stuff too. Very satisfied with this SUV!!! So I have been looking for all the reviews on the GM trucks. Everyone seems to like them, except for the spotty build. Any enlightenment would be helpful. I was also able to make a deal at $400 below dealer invoice. Well, at least it matched up to Kelly's Blue books numbers, plus $400 minus. Anyone wish to chime in, would be most appreciated.

Thanks

obyone

I hope that you at least turn it on from time to time to work them seals. Mines left on 24/7. Only time its turned off is when its in the dealers....which seems to be getting more and more often. BTW, the GMC dealer that's doing the work couldn't believe the a/c crapped out while we are waiting for the new rack.

ryanbab

yea i turn it on once in awhile

I dont run it long. After a few min i turn the recirc on and it stays cold enough

kg11

Doesn't recirc automatically use the A/C ?

kip

ryanbab

the AC button isnt lit up

gator36

The recirc button automatically engages the clutch on the compressor. This is another one of those changes made by gm that there is no apparent reason.

In the January 2002 Techline article

( http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/index.html )

GM explains the operation of the recirc switch.

A/C Compressor Runs with

Switch Off or Recirc Inoperative

On some 2000 Chevrolet Silverado and

GMC Sierra trucks built through

approximately October 1999, the A/C

compressor will run whenever Recirc mode

is selected. The A/C indicator will not

illuminate unless selected on by the driver.

Additionally, Recirc will not be available

with HVAC in Floor, Defrost or any

combination of Floor and Defrost. The

Recirc indicator will flash 3 times to indicate

this. HVAC will automatically switch out of

Recirc when any Floor/Defrost position is

selected.

All replacement Control Heads for model

year 1999 to present will operate in this

way.

Operating the A/C compressor in Recirc

mode will improve dehumidification and

assist in minimizing the chances of fogging.

Not allowing Recirc in modes that will direct

airflow to the windshield or floor will reduce

the amount of moist interior air being

distributed on glass surfaces.

Original Part Number New Part Number

09361345 w/rear defog 15753263 w/rear defog

09361355 w/o 15753264 w/o

? Thanks to GM Technical Assistance

Walter

ryanbab

Thanks for the info. You can hear the compressor when the recirc is selected

WHat i notice though is when running the AC the engine bogs down (not bad but you know what i mean?) and with recirc it doesnt.

dch0300

When I'm driving around town (35 mph), I normally just keep my truck in 3rd. However on a few occasions when I'm doing 35 mph and I floor the gas pedal, I've noticed that the transmission doesn't drop down enough gears and launch the truck like a rocket, like it will do when I'm doing 35 mph in Drive or 2nd gear and I floor it. And this sucks because then S-10's and Rangers can out accelerate me!!
Anyone else experienced this, and can this be fixed with a Hypertech Power Programmer III?

txyank1

But, if you're in 3rd you've only got two gears to go down. And depending on your speed at the time you may be going too fast for 1st?

dch0300

When doing 35 mph and I floor it, if it does drop down to only 2nd gear, you'd still think that a 5.3 L, with 285 hp and 3.73 rear end would have enough get up and go to not let a S-10 or Ranger out accelerate me and even still pass me. I've got the gas pedal on the floor for goodness sake. Maybe next time I'll drop it into 2nd manually then floor it.
Or maybe I'll keep driving it around in 3rd yet, but with the tow/haul mode on.
Or will the Hypertech Programmer be able to fix the problem and drop it into 1st gear if I floor it while I'm doing 35 mph?

gator36

I was told by a service manager that the new AC compressors have a ??warble plate??? design. This apparently allows the AC clutch to remain engaged and draw less horsepower by reducing the compression of the R-134A. I have yet to try to verify this but who knows????

Walter (Gator)

txyank1

You can adjust the shift points. Don't know if you were set to shift 1st to 2nd later, if it would be more apt to shift down to 1st or not. I jave to assume the S-10s or Ranger have a running start. It does take some time for it to get moving. But I have often noticed the same thing pulling away from a light. Seems like I have to use an awful lot of gas pedal to keep up with some of these runts.

obyone

Will not assist in reprogramming down shifts points.

minikin

Roger that; the HPIII will let you pick the WOT upshift rpm, but not the part throttle shift points. What it can do, though, is restore the correct part throttle upshift/downshift points if you've changed gearing (including tire size changes) without any other program changes.
- don

qzs4vb

Roughly how many miles are you guys getting on your brakes before they need new pads. And do the fronts and rears wear relatively evenly? or not? I've heard they go a long time.

Thanks

obyone

the front and rear. Looks like good to go for another 40k at least.

PANG! Is the sound I get when driving forward or reverse at a slow speed like when turning into a parking stall. Seems like something is binding in the steering shaft and releases under tension. And the PANG! is quite loud.

After replacing the rack and pinion, the sound is gone. Not sure if they lubed the steering shaft or the leaking rack was the problem. Just thought I'd pass it on in case anyone else has the PANG! LMAO!!

ryanbab

I am at a crossroad.

I have a loud THUD when making right turns. SOunds like the front end is falling apart. I had the front tires off today and nothing looked abnormal. All bolts tight and nothing has play in it

Sounds like it is in the drivers wheel well/ under the drivers floorboard

mledtje

One THUD, or multiples? That is, do you think it is connected with the wheel turning, or a single event in the suspension/steering.

Mike L

ryanbab

its only 1 thud

Also I have had the steering shaft fixed 3 times (WOAH). The first time you could feel the vib in the wheel when turning. This time there is no vib just an audible THUD.

Also i checked the shocks and those are fine. Also the tires arent rubbing at all either

txyank1

when turning right briskly. They replaced a bushing that had something to do with the rack. Now I have something somewhat like it but not exactly when turning left. Especially when it's over uneven (bumpy) terrain. FYI....2wd.

keith944t

Hi,
I'm considering the purchase of a 2003 GMC 1500 base ext cab, 4x4 with a 4.8.
The vehicle will be the primary use vehicle, so I'd be interested in "real world" gas mileage you guys might be getting.
Also, I'm looking at using it to tow an open car trailer weighing in around 5000 lbs.
Anybody have experience in such?
Is the 4.8 enough? I know it's rated at 7100 lbs. but we all know "real world is different from "specs"

Thanks in Advance.
Keith in Zelienople PA