Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

demx007

help i want to add fog lite to my 03 silverado ext cab-- has fog lite switch in cab and i see 2 wires below but they seem attached to frame
with a small metal type box with 2 wires attached do not know what they do what do i need to do ??

shine

I am currently looking at a new Silverado but I need a little expertise. I have looked at F 150's and have been told the 4.6 is a littler better on gas than the 5.4. But on the Silverado I'm lost. What should I look for engine wiseand rear end wise to get the best mileage. I know this won't be great but 14 or 15 with a 4x4 with mixed city and highway 50/50 would be a huge improvement over my Dodge. Any help or comments would be appreciated

boomer1b

From the posts I see at the truck forums here or elsewhere the 4.6 in the Fords are DOGS...............No mention of mpg.

My bud has a 04 1500 xcab 4x4 5.3 3:73 Chevy.....He reports 20 plus on his daily commute..........all highway.......10-15 around town

I have a 04 3/4 2500 4x4 6.0 4:10 Chevy that on a good day hiway will eek out 17 mpg unloaded a/c on. 10 -12 mpg around town

8 mpg heavy towing or snowplowing............

The small v-8 with 3:73 gears would be your best mpg bet on a GM.

Wanna laugh? My other bud has a subie outback.......16 mpg TOPS !
He's whining and wants to dump it for another camry....25 plus mpg !

osubeav

Get the 5.3L H.O. (aluminum, 310HP Vortec). It's rated higher than any of the other options, including the 4.8L. I just got an extended cab 4x4 with it and the 3.42 rear end and got 19 mpg on a mixed trip, and I haven't broken it in yet (only 700 miles).

sebring95

I had a Ford with the 4.6 liter and it was a dog and got terrible mpg. About 12-14mpg average. I'm doing a little better with my 4.8L Silverado. It gets between 14-16mpg average. Out on the highway it'll top-out around 17-18mpg max. Personally, I think it has to work a bit hard to move my ext. cab 4x4 with 31" tires. I've got the 3.73 gears, btw. It's not near the dog my F-150 was, but it's still overwhelmed.

My Tahoe has the 5.3L with 3.73 gears and generally feels quite strong even with 4-5 passengers/luggage. It generally averages 16-17mpg and has gotten 21mpg on all highway trips.

I personally would never buy another 4.8L except perhaps in a regular cab.

I do the vast majority of my commuting in a VW Jetta TDI. I've bumped the power and still generally average 45mpg. I drive enough to justify it, plus I enjoy the power/speed/handling better than putzing around in the truck all the time. My '03 Silvy only has 15k miles on it. I've got two diesel Dodges we use at our stables and they do pretty good on fuel. The '01 averages 13mpg pulling 8,000# and the '03 averages 10mpg pulling 15,000#.

boomer1b

With those 31s.......Have you had your speedo recalibrated?

sebring95

With those 31s.......Have you had your speedo recalibrated?

Well.....sort of. I paid the dealer $35 to recalibrate but they didn't do something right. When I had the stock 235's, my speedo was perfect with the roadside radars. Now I'm about 3mph slower than I'm actually going. That's not far enough off to be "out-of-spec" technically, but I liked it better when it was right on the money. The tires I bought were 265's which is a stock size and they're supposed to be able to reprogram easily.

I've been thinking about putting a tuner of some sort on it because it needs some power plus you can monkey with the tire sizes as well.

shine

Thanks for all your help but one final question. Most of the GMC Sierra I find have the aluminum block 5.3 with 3.42 rear end. All of the Chevy Silverado have the iron block 5.3 with 3.42 rear end. Will there be much difference betwen aluminum vs iron block. Like I said I don't expect miracles but if I could average 15 or 16 mpg mixed highway city it would be like I hit the lottery compared to the Dodge. I really love the Dodge but that Hemi is just killin me at 35,000 miles per year. Thanks again you all have been very helpful.

osubeav

There's 15 HP between the two (iron block and aluminum). I don't know about the torque difference. The aluminum block is rated at 1 mpg better. There is also a "flex fuel" iron block that is a little lower.

Be sure to get the engine upgrade as part of the "Light Duty Power Package", as the engine upgrade alone is about about $1400, but only $400 - $500 as part of the power pack, since there is a $1000 discount for that package.

I'm surprised that you can't find the aluminum block on a Silverado. There are a lot of them here in the Pacific NW. I even found Work Trucks with the upgrade (I bought a Z71).

sebring95

Just be very careful when trading vehicles for fuel mileage. Keep in mind you've already been through the heavy depreciation period on the Ram so you'll not only have to pony up the money for a new truck, but you'll get hit with the depreciation again on the new one.

Gotta make sure you can get at least a couple mpg more to make it work out. Figure if you can go from 13mpg to 15mpg (guessing) that'll save you $1500/year on fuel. Of course if the overall cost of getting into the new vehicle costs you $5,000....depends on how often you trade. I'm looking at a Honda Odyssey to replace my Tahoe since I'm not towing with it anymore. The Honda seems to average 22-24mpg in real-world driving where my Tahoe averages 16-18mpg. I've calculated my overall costs for the next three years and the Tahoe is still cheaper because of the depreciation hit. That's also assuming the depreciation of full-size SUV's doesn't totally fall through the floor. It's taken a pretty good hit as it is. When I bought the Tahoe they were pulling in residuals of about 45% after 60 months. Now they're at about 35%.

I don't recall if you were looking for the ext. cab or crew cab chevy. I have the ext cab chevy and a quad cab dodge (1-ton dually) and the Dodge is much more comfy. I hate those rear-folding doors. Just throwing out some things to consider...

taildragger170

Hey all ,
I'm new here but thought I would ask a couple of questions.
I have a 2002 1500lt 4x4 extended short box. 5.3 with 3.73 . I am looking to buy a 05 crew 1500. Did they discontinue the tilting headrest as on my 02. The crew I looked at was a z71 (but not a LT) with leather seats option and the headrest were adjustable up and down but not tilt. Is this LT option or not available anymore. ( My 02 is a LT-Z71)
Also I have the 3.73 gears and the towing is acceptable with my boat at highway speeds. But the new ones have 4.10 or 3.42. I am afraid the 3.42 will be too tall on the highway for the 5000+lb trailer. But think the 4.10 will rev too much at highway speed and suck up a bunch of fuel. Anybody have experience with this to help me make up my mind?
Now the 5.5 or the 6.5 foot bed............hmmmm

cornellpinoy

How can I check if I have an iron block or aluminum block? I just "upgraded" to an '05 Silverado Crew Cab Z71 with a 5.3L.

osubeav

Should say on your window sticker. Not sure, otherwise.

joe29001

It's got the iron block. The aluminum block is only available in extended cab short box trucks.

cornellpinoy

Thanks for the info!

jimbosls

I have a 2000 1500 Silverado. With 104,000 miles, I could not be happier. However, The fuel guage reads accurately only when the level is below half. I'm sure the problem is in the fuel sending unit atop the fuel cell. Does this entire assembly need to be replaced to fix this problem or can various pieces be replaced. Someone once told me it was the actual sensor cable being streched ( common on earlier models ) hense why it is only a problem with a 75% or greater fuel capacity. Anyone have any ideas..??

zapper1

The fuel assembly WAS avail. in 3 pcs. Dealer only sells the whole deal for $600 or so as of late. Call around to a big box part stores is your best bet. NAPA is the best but alas.....Ya need to hook up with somebody with a wholesale acct. there to get the best prices..................... :sick:

dadoftay

Here's a crazy one! I made a comment about wishing for a tighter turning circle the other day and a coworker (has a CrewCab) says he "shortened his tie rod ends" to decrease his turning radius. I guess that would do it, but wouldn't the truck not track right or how would you align it?? Has anyone ever heard of this?

saltydawg

I'm putting my 1990 GMC Sierra on light duty at the farm, 225k miles, she deserves it. I'm looking for my best bet on a full-size replacement that might take me through the next 15 years, probably something similar to my old GMC, not an s-10 type truck, but extended-cab shortbed. Any of you folks owned Ford or Chevy in the past & can give me your opinions? This might be the last truck I ever buy, so I want to do it right the first time. I'm retiring the '90 because I do a lot of hiway driving, and want to be confident I'm not going to be by the side of the road in the middle of nowhere...

jimbosls

Thanks for the tip..I still need to know if anyone has had a similar problem and what they did to fix it. Replacing the whole unit or just some of it.

jimbosls

The 4.10 gear is actually a better rated setup for pulling a heavier load. Be sure to compare what the specifications are as to horsepower @ rpm and torque @ rpm. The higher torque to lower rpm is really what you are after. I have a 1500 with the 3.73 gear. I also have the heavy duty tow package. Including the oil cooler and transmission temperature guage. I pull a 6300lb gooseneck horse trailer. I borrowed a friends 1500 with the 3.42, it was a struggle. I would consider, if I were in the market, the 4.10 gear. Keep in mind, the higher the gear ratio the better your fuel economy will be. I average 17.9 truck alone, and 14.6 loaded. Hope this helps.

jimbosls

Technically yes it would work. By shortening the tie rods, your coworker is asking for serious tire issues. I would watch to see what the camber and toe does to his tires. Curious idea though..

capriracer

Sorry, but shortening the tie rods ends would only cause the toe in to change. I'm thinking he meant he shortened the steering arm attached to the hub. The tie rod end attaches to that. That would work.

It's also possible he ground off whatever it is that limits the amount of movement of the steering arm - which might be on the tie rod end?

Gee, if it was that easy, wouldn't GM have done that?

jimbosls

What you have is a soft coil element behind a teflon coated mirror. The mirror is not actually glass base, but a polymer. When the adhesive releases from the mirror backing...Boom..no more heat. Not an uncommon problem. Mine have also quit working. I'm thinking of just going to a tow mirror. The element is still working inside the housing, most of the time, but has lost contact with the mirror back. Sometimes the adhesive is to blame. Sometimes it's the element itself. Hope this helps...

stadiche

hi i have a 2003 hd 2500 with the 8.1 and i was wondering if any one else has one and what kind of gas milage your getting. im only getting around 8 mpg.

dadoftay

I'll have to get the details of what was cut, ground, removed, etc. All that was said was tie rods. I was under the impression, like capriracer, those were simply connecting points for the steering arm, but my thought after he said it was "if the ends are shorter the wheels can be turned farther"- It's just made me question the whole thing because I would love to be able to swing into tight spots with no back and fill!

zapper1

Whomever makes those mirrors (prob. a junk 3rd world part) is doing a crummy job. I see at a few GM truck sites along with the snowplowing sites of MANY heated mirror failures along with the glass cracking !

My 04 is waiting for replacements as I type.....................

noobie1

Thanks for the tip. I just inspected the ones I recently replaced, and they appear to still be glued tight against the backing, so I assume it was the element that failed. Still puzzled about it. I guess the smallest crack in the element...........It's also funny that they both failed at about the same time.

Zapper: I was surprised that my dealer had them in stock, which may speak volumes.

-David

zapper1

I see elsewhere at some GM truck and Caddy forums a bunch of posts about the auto dimming mirrors leaking out the fluid. It is posted this substance is VERY corrosive and EATS the paint and plastic mirror housings...........YEOW!

ryanbab

For everyone that knows how long Tim went without changing his cabin filter in his 2500 LIGHT DUTY (haha) and contracting pnemonia 5 times I have a good story. Bought my impala (used 2000) last Sept. Well I noticed the interior getting really dust. I Say hey lets changed the cabin filter. Follow the instructions (engine bay pass side under the trim below the wipers) go to remove the old one UH OH there isnt one. Now I know why it was getting so dusty in the car. NO CABIN FILTER. No there is one so I should be good.

Just thought I would share

shiftless

If you increase the turning radius enough, the CV joints will dissemble, that will give you a story to tell!
Ed

noobie1

2002 2500HD, X-Cab, LB, 4WD

I drive the same route week after week so am able to monitor gas mileage pretty accurately. I consistently get 12 MPG, mostly highway. If I have to add stop and go to that doing errands during the week, it'll drop into the 11's, deeply if there's a lot of it. Rarely into the 10's; and once got 16 at high altitude.
Funny thing, it doesn't seem to matter how much I stick my foot in it,........within reason, and that's a good thing. :-)

-David

nmertz

Just discovered these forums. Have a '99 Silvarado LS 2500 4X4 LB with the 6.0L. Bought it used w/ 29,500 miles on it. Now have almost 147,000. This is without a doubt the most reliable truck I've ever owned. Rebuilt the brakes a couple/three weeks ago...pads/ rotors all around (146K on factory brakes); had leaking rear axle seals. Also found leaking front pinion shaft seal. This is the first time in almost five years it's required anything but routine maintenance. Plan to drive it another 100K.

dadoftay

What he calims was done was the tie rod ends were cut short by 1-1/2 inches then reinstalled. He says he ground a bolt end that was blocking the steering arm. Now, the worst part is I'm thinking he's a few bolts loose himself because I went to lunch with him and 2 other guys in the warehouse and I couldn't tell a bit of difference in how the truck turned. He says it got the radius down around 40 ft. We had to back and fill into a parking space just like my XCab. I'm wondering if he really did this stuff (there are some cut marks on the tie rods) or if he did this work and it was all for nothing and now his front end is jacked up. :confuse:

gucciboy

I am looking to put on a leveling kit in my 03 Silverado ext. cab. 4.8 ltr. what is the best brand to get and is it hard to put in. i looked into "adjusting" the suspension and it doesn't work.

051500

hi i would be interested in learning how to raise the front end of my 05 z71 ex cab. if you would please tell me how. thanks. mike

bachtorock

I want to install dual Flowmasters & an H or X pipe on my 96 Chevy K1500 Z71 xcab 5.7L since it already has true dual exhaust up to the muffler. I got under the truck with a tape measure to check for fit. I know that the Flowmaster case is 5x10. It seems they would fit if the mufflers were mounted side by side(10" dimension vertical). Has this been done before?

obyone

way. Nothing new there. I'm assuming you're taking it to an exhaust shop to have it done?

truck5

I'm looking for real world numbers... If you have an 03-05 silverado with a 5.3L engine tell me your MPG/Model Year/Rear Axle Ratio.

I'm curious to see how much a 4.10 rear axle effects MPG versus the 3.42 or 3.73

Thanks

joe29001

18-19 MPG Mixed Dirving/2004/3.73 (Reg Cab, Long Bed, LS 4x4)

white6

2004 5.3 Ex Cab 2wd auto 3.42: 17.5 mpg average in even mix of city/rural/interstate.

jerrywimer

2004 5.3 EC SB Z-71 4x4, 3.73: 17.5-19.5, 80% highway/city, 89 octane gas.

rayt2

Keep in mind, the higher the gear ratio the better your fuel economy will be.
Are you sure you didn't mean the opposite? My experience has always been the lower the ratio the better the mileage but you suffer with towing or off the line power. 3:42 rear will give much better mileage than a 4:10 set-up, the later will beat you off the line everytime though........ :P

sebring95

A 3:42 is higher than a 4:10 in ratio speak....

truck5

Hi Jimbosls,

I know 3.42 will be a little better on gas than the 4.10, I'm just curious how much better.

jerrywimer

Even that's not necessarily true. On perfectly level ground and unloaded the 3.42 would probably be a little better. But with a load, towing, on variable inclines (hilly roads), or with lead footed drivers the comparison could be completely different.

One example that has been discussed several times on another forum I visit is the hilly roads example- the lower (4:10) ratio vehicle might not have to downshift from overdrive as often on the hills as the 3:73 or 3:42, meaning that it's final drive ratio used would be higher (than the 3rd gear of the others), and it could end up with better overall mileage as a result.

A lot depends on how you use the truck, how you drive, and where you'll be driving most of the time.

psg

Is there something going on with GM's Autotrac or am I just lucky? Is it unreasonable to expect an extend warranty on the transfer case? I requested one and I'm waiting for GM to reply. I have an '03 Rado with the Autotrac transfer case. With less then 30k on the clock it is in the shop to have the "clutches replaced." In the past month I have been to the dealer three times with problems related to the 4-wheel drive system. I get the feeling I'm being placated until the truck is off warranty. The last fix involved putting in "new and improved" fluid.

This experience reminds me of the first fix for the intermediate steering shaft problem. GM's "life time cure" was to pack in some grease. The life time fix lasted 10K miles when (after yet another visit to the dealer) GM replaced the shaft with a redesigned unit. Okay, I'm getting ready to go on a rant so I'll stop.

Thanks in advance!

Phil

rayt2

I have the 3:73 setup, 5.3L, 2wd xcab, short body, auto, 2500 and never gotten better than 16 mpg even when taking it easy on throttle, no load and cruising on highway @ 65 mph. The 3:42 sucks for towing but following my example you may get 20 mpg outta it. 3:73 is better for towing, 4:10 is best. Also as your ratio increases or decreases (dependent on how you interpet ratio), so does your towing capability. ie: My GCWR as equipped is 13,000#. if I had the 3:42 rear it would drop to 12,000# GCWR, on the other side if I had the 4:10 rear GCWR would be 14,000#.

Ray T.

psg

Just got off the phone, the dealer is rebuilding the transfer case on my truck and GM's policy is to never extend OEM warranties. I'm not sure what my next step will be, but I think this is going to be my last GM product.

Any wonder GM is losing market share and their stock is in the toilet?

picklesorvie

I have driven GM products for decades but I think the next vehicle will be a
Toyota. We have three Chevrolets which have been very troublesome
relative to need for repairs. In one instance GM does not have a fix. Our 2004 Silverado has 9,000 miles on it and has been in the shop for too many problems.
Yesterday I talked with an owner of a fairly new Toyota Tundra with 16,000
miles on it and he has not had one problem. I have a lot of respect for our
dealer or otherwise I would have left Chevrolet before now.