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Volkswagen Golf Care & Maintenance

fyeomanfyeoman Posts: 4
edited August 2014 in Volkswagen
I would very much like to know if anyone else is having the same problem as I with their throttle having a large amount of free play approx 1" (25mm). I have had car back to the dealer 3 times for this problem, the first they did nothing and said they called factory tech and they were told it was normal. 2nd time they tried to adjust and it got better but it only stayed that way for a few days. 3rd time they called factory again and said they got instructions for some NEW settings, well the car didn't have the lag in the throttle and ran like it had an extra cylinder added GREAT! I thought, it only lasted for about 2 weeks. it is back like it was when I first complained.
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Comments

  • shelbybshelbyb Posts: 2
    I have a VR6 2000 Jetta, it has over 24,000 mls on it and is now past the warranty. I've been going into the desert area where the wheather is 100 degrees and now there is a yellow wax melting out of every door. One day while using the electric window it made an aweful noise then the window dropped to the botton of the door. I called the dealer, which is the Mckenna in H.B. and the man told me to bring it in, that I didn't do anything wrong, and this has happen before and to ask for him only. So, I bring it in and another guy (the manager) tells me it will be $80 to look at and $400 to fix the window. I said this shouldn't be happening to a newer car and isn't the window under a manufacture warranty and he said that the 24k was the manufacture warranty. This is a defect in the electric window. Has this happened yet to any one else?
    Thanks for your input!
  • paepae Posts: 3
    Shelbyb,
    I too have experienced the 'window-crash'in my 99.5 Jetta GLS, although mine occurred in snow (at the airport 35 minutes b4 flying out,grrr) not in desert heat.
    Fortunately i guess, it happened on the very last day of my warranty, so it was repaired for free.
    I've been reading the forums on vwvortex.com, and it seems to be a pretty regular occurrence that volkswagen fixes for free, and have actually redesigned the window regulator to compensate.
    Good luck
  • davidweavdavidweav Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced a leak in their car? I have a nasty one on the passangers side which occurs even if the car is parked. VW is looking at the problem, we shall see!
    Dave
  • My daughter has a 1997 Jetta GL with and automatic transmission. She has 82,000 mile on it and the transmission has never been serviced. I understand that it is a difficult trany to service. Special tools and gauges are needed. Amco will not do the service on a Jetta transmission. When should this be done? The dealer said it would only cost about $60. I just have to get the car away from my daughter long enough to get it in to the shop.
  • jcp5jcp5 Posts: 9
    I have owned my Tulley(NH) 2000 Jetta for approx. 2 yr/48,000 highway miles. Here are the problems I have experienced...

    * The car burns oil rapidly between oil changes and requires maintenance
    * My drivers side AND passenger side window fell into the door and after the secretary told me there was nothing they could do (mind you, it was raining and I had a 1 hr commute home) I had the manager help, if you call it that...I was charged $250.
    * The sunroof is broken (its $85 just for VW to look at it)
    * The Mass Airflow Sensor needed replacement at 40,000 miles ($550)
    * There is a rattling in the passenger side speaker (dealer can’t figure it out but charges for checking)
    * The dash board lights sometimes don’t come on

    Please note that all of these problems are not due to misuse of the car...at one time I ran a car detailing business and I treat the car very, very well and have been disheartened by its problems.

    VW service is horrible!! and the workers are very unsypathethic to any problems. Since its not one problem that recurs over and over I dont qualify for the lemon-law; a loophole if you ask me.

    I will never buy a VW again.
    Feel free to ask me any questions… [email protected]
  • Hi everyone,
    I need some advise. I am a student on a very tight budjet and i am looking for my first reasonable car. Basically I need realiability (especially for our Canadian winters), don't want to invest tons in repairs and just a car that will get me to school,work, home. I expect to do about 20 000km/yr and I always keep up on oil changes and general maintenance etc.

    Passing by my local garage, I noticed someone was selling a 4 door, 5-Speed 91 Jetta. It has 215 000 kms, some rust, visible repairs on the moldings but otherwise it seems in good shape. Took it for a spin and it seemed ok although i'm not used to driving manual. The thing that concerned me is that there was a light on the dashboard and buzzing of some sort, like a warning light. The guy said it was something he had to adjust. Any ideas what it could be? He's asking for $2000 CDN.
    I am wondering what you all think of this. Do Jettas have an overall good rating? In terms of quality, do you think this car would last very much longer...will it see 300 000? Is there anyone out there with this same car that can give me some advise? Or anyone that has had experience with Jettas, were you pleased or deceived with Jetta?

    Thank you so much for your help and advise. I appreciate all your time and patience. My first car is a big step and I dont want to make a mistake.
    Have a great day!! :)
  • greenogreeno Posts: 13
    Have a 2000 Jetta 1.8T. Yes, I had a problem with the pass. window crashing(luckily under warranty), have had the yellow wax seeping down the bottom of the undercarriage in the summer, but what do you guys think of using synthetic oil in these turbo's? I know it will cost about $50 an oil change but you can go to 5,000 miles between them and just think of how much that turbo will be to replace if it goes. Those turbos are lubricated by the oil that's why it's important to keep the oil clean and changed regularly. But synthetic oil will probably keep that turbo clean and running longer and better. What do you think and do you use any additives?
  • buy your own oil and give it to VW to use at your services, it'll cost you like 20 bucks for a case insterad of paying 80 bucks for VW using their own synthetic
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    If you wanna use it, that's up to you. The service interval for the turbo is 5000 miles anyway, so if you change the oil every 5K (and save the paperwork from it), VW will be responsible for the turbo if anything happens. Am I right in this assumption? Just wondering.
  • mynewvwmynewvw Posts: 18
    I have a 2002 Jetta Wagon V6 with 2,000 miles on it. After it warms up, I can hear a knocking/sucking (more of a knock though) coming from the engine compartment while in park. The knocking doesn't seem to speed up when rpms increase. When I press the gas down, the knock goes away for about 10 seconds. I have worked a lot on cars, and the knocking doesn't sound like it's coming from the engine though it is very hard to locate where it is coming from. One other thing - when I have the gas cap off, I can hear it quite loudly coming from the gas pipe/cap entry. It strikes me as something vacuum related but I should would like to know what it is. Any ideas are appreciated.
    Thanks
  • mynewvwmynewvw Posts: 18
    I noticed the same thing. I have a 2002 GLS V6. My car not only has a inch of lag on the pedal, but the worst part (actually dangerous) is that the gas builds up during the lag time ending in a severe lurching that often squeals the tires. This happens most often while apply the gas while moving slowly during a turn.
    Regards
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    That doesn't sound normal about the gas pedal. My 2002 1.8T takes off immediately after I touch the pedal. A friend of mine drove the car (he has a 1994 Mercury Cougar), and he spun out the first time he hit the gas and lurched when he braked. He said the pedals were really sensitive. I think so as well. I will spin sometimes when accelerating, because I don't realize how hard I push down the gas pedal.
  • mynewvwmynewvw Posts: 18
    Vocus,
    No this problem is the result of a lag. You press the pedal down slowly about an inch or two and you feel nothing. Then, after about 2 seconds, all the gas that you've been pouring in goes into the cylinders at once (the same effect as if you floored the car) and then the wheels spin. It is certainly not normal, but I don't know how much of a problem it is. It is a bit dangerous however with the V6 because you really take off and it tends to happen when you slowly accelerate while turning (around 5mph)...
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I have turbo lag, but that's normal in a car with automatic and a turbo engine. It hesitates a little tiny bit when I hit the gas at first, but it doesn't take right off like you said unless I hit the pedal hard enough for it to do so.
  • I just ordered a 2002 Jetta wagon with 1.8T engine and Auto. I was wondering what the recommended octane is? Since you really have the same engine, I'll believe you over the people who simply say "use 91 or 93" or "I think it is OK to use regular". Thanks in advance.

    P.S. How do you like performance of the new 180 hp turbo with the Tiptronic? When we test drove it, my wife did most of driving since it will be mainly her car. Seemed pretty fun, tho I wanted the stick for best driving pleasure.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I can't drive a stick and commute too much in heavy traffic, so I needed an automatic. I think it's really good, compared to my 2001 Protege it is anyway. I know the AC doesn't affect performance at all.

    I use 93 all the time, because it only costs $1 or so more per tank than regular. Also, 93 is recommended. I hear you can use 87/89, but with lower performance and fuel economy.
  • dont use regular, the 150hps turbo required 91 and up, the new ones reccomend it, but for a turbo, its best to use premium.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I know, I want to use regular sometimes, but it's not worth damaging my engine or lowering the performance of it to save like $1 a tank. I have 6000 miles on a car I took delivery of on 11/3/01, so that gives you an idea of how much I drive it. If I can use premium fuel in mine, I am sure everyone can. :)
  • ive got 10200 miles and I've had my car since Feb 28th, 2001, its a lease so I'm keeping up with the 1k miles a month. Hell, I got the 2.0 engine and even I use premium, I know it is totally unnecessary with such a weak, low tech engine but I want to baby it....lol
  • Thanks for the gas info. I figured it would want premium, but noticed that it wasn't required for the new turbo. I'll probably use premium (it is only 91 octane here at altitude) just to be safe too.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Porkchop: 91 octane is required for the turbo. It says "premium recommended" inside the fuel flap of my 2002 1.8T Jetta.

    Black: You are wasting money and probably doing more harm than good to the car. Using premium in a car that only requires regular will eventually cause carbon build-up.

    And 10,200 miles since Feb. 2001? I have 6300 and just got my car on 11/3/01. :)
  • you're probably right about the carbon build up. I was told that fuel injector cleane is what solves that issue..is that right? If not, what exactly is it for?
  • Why do you say that using a higher octane gas harms an engine? I have never seen that anywhere. As far I know, if you use a higher octane than required you are just wasting a buck or two per tank.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I have heard from a couple mechanics that it can cause carbon build-up in the engine from using a higher octane gas than recommended. Also, it's a waste of money too.
  • I just purchased a 2002 GTI 1.8T (Indigo Blue, beige leather, 17" wheel pkg, luxury pkg) and am enjoying the car. This is my first VW (or European car for that matter) so I'm getting adjusted to some of the nuances.

    I do have a couple of questions for current GTI owners about the car:

    1) I only have about 600 miles on the car, but am noticing a low popping sound when making sharp turns especially at low speeds (backing out of a parking spot). The wheel is not fully to the lock, but it sounds like the steering/suspension making a sound. Is this normal and has anyone else experienced it?

    2) There is a annoying rattle/squeak from the passenger side front seat. Any comments on what it might be and how to stop it? It doesn't seem to occur when someone is sitting in it or if I reach over and hold the seat.

    Other than these two minor things, the car is a blast to drive.

    Thanks!
  • the popping sound from the steering is somehting I have, that got fixed and came back the enxt day and gets rreally bad where you can hear somehitng like a knocking noise coming from the front of the car and when you turn the steering wheel it kinda of creaks, but now when I take it to get fixed I don't hear it and they won't do anyhting about it. When it was fixed originally, they said they replaced the rubber joint of the front strut or somehting like that. I read somewhere about a recall for a problem much like this for the Golf, but VW keeps saying to me that it's nothing to worry about.

    The seat problem can be fixed by replacing the seat frame, which I've done twice but the second time it wasn't even fixed! So it lasts even today...Rattles are a given, you gotta hear my car. Even the little chrome area around the shifter(?) crekas when I slow down and accelerate! VW makes it better my [non-permissible content removed]...
  • jabildajabilda Posts: 47
    on the oil to use in the TDI (weight?). The manual seems to be written for gas engine & recommends 5W-40 / 5W-30.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,870
    The oil specified for use in the Volkswagen TDi for current models meets the "API Service CG-4" rating.

    Oils which are suitable for the full recommended oil change interval in all climates include, but aren't limited to:
    Mobil Delvac 1, 5w40 (full synthetic, a reformulated version of Mobil 1 which is intended for diesel engines)
    Chevron Delo 400, 5w40 (full synthetic version)
    Shell Rotella T (full synthetic version, not to be confused with Rotella SB synthetic blend or regular Rotella T non-synthetic)
    Amsoil Series 3000, 5w30 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
    Amsoil High Performance, 10w40 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
    Amsoil semi-synthetic 15w40 (CH-4 rated and high quality, but almost as expensive as the full synthetic, and higher viscosity at low temperatures)
    Redline, synthetic version (make sure you get the type meant for diesel engines, with the CG-4 or CH-4 rating)
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
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  • have a 2001.5 passat with front seat heaters. car battery is dead again. going back to the dealer for 3rd time. the drivers seat heater wont turn off. they replaced the switch twice. any one exp this problem? car has 9000 miles on it.
  • deraaderaa Posts: 10
    Hi,
    I've got a 2002 Passat GLX. Been real happy with it but it's developed a vibration in the headliner, right over the passenger side rear seat. I mentioned it to the dealer when I had the first service (rip-off) and they said they'd ask VW about it; never heard anything.

    But anyway, sometimes when the car idles I hear the vibration, often when driving, worse when the sunroof is open. It's not air pulsation, b/c I can repeat the sound when I tap the ceiling.

    I'm hesitant to have the dealer do anything b/c I'm afraid they'll never get it all back together the same.

    Anyone have the same/similar experience.

    Thanks.
  • seguyseguy Posts: 133
    I was looking through the manual and couldn't see a drain interval for the coolant? Does it need to be changed ever?(per VW) and how about the Tranny fluid?? Also, where is a good place to buy OEM filters and accessories on the web?? Thanks
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    www.parts4vws.com
  • robynwingrobynwing Posts: 1
    I have a jetta that makes a popping noise in the drivers seat. It makes this noise when I am turning corners, braking and accelerating. The noise can't be made if you are sitting in the car while in park and you shake the seat. This is what the dealer mechanic did. He told me that he has had a couple of complaints about the popping noise and they don't know what causes it. It is really annoying. It sounds almost like a water bottle is hitting the back of the seat or like the seat is slipping. Does anyone know how to fix it or does anyone else share this problem?
  • hidrhidr Posts: 4
    Hello,

    I am desperate for a solution. I want to ask if anyone out there having problem with condensation in the side marker lens. 3 month after I got 2002 GLX, some idiot stole my side marker lenses and lamps (lights below side mirrors). They pulled the lens out and cut a wire inside. They also tried to steal my alloy wheels but saw the lock bolt, then gave up.

    Our dealer reinstalled a new side marker lenses, lamps, and wires. After a few days later, a driver side marker lens was getting foggy. I can see that there is moisture inside. Several days later, it started to form beads of water inside. We went to get serviced twice. The third time, e went back to our dealer and replaced the left lens and two hours later I see the moisture forming in the lens again. The right side lens is just fine since they replaced first time. We went back to dealer right away to show what’s going on. The dealer had no clue and seemed not cared. They used air pressure to spray inside the lens, which has not way of getting air. If you’ve seen the lens carefully, lamp goes in the lens but have clear plastic cover over it. No way of getting moisture in there. The dealer messed around, but the result is the same.

    I am getting sick of it. I bought a new car so I don’t have to commute to the dealer every other month. Does anyone have some problem? If so how did you fix it? Any suggestions???
  • Jcp5, I will NEVER buy another VW either! For the same reasons you said, all this petty crap breaking WAY before its time! I sunk $2700 into my 98 GTI VR6, and the car had only 63K miles on it. I saw the light and sold it finally. Now I'm driving Japanese cars from here on, just bought a Subaru and love it. And the handling in the rain can't even compare to the GTI.

    That's the thing, if you're a mechanic and can fix all the little rattles, etc., VWs are really fun cars to drive. But if like me you're paying someone to fix it, it'll cost a fortune.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    hidr: I haven't seen that problem on my golf, nor have I seen it on the vortex. Can't be of much help.

    engineering chic: didn't you say you were a mechanical engineer, or was that a dirt (civil) engineer? Though being an engineer doesn't mean you're mechanically inclined also....hope you enjoy your Subie...is it a WRX? Watch out for the glove box rattle and radiator leaks.
  • bjbird2bjbird2 Posts: 647
    I want to put a K&N air filter in my wife's 1.8T Passat sedan, but it looks more complicated than any air filter I've dealt with before. The owner's manual doesen't say anything about the air filter, and the dealer said they would not install anything for me except VW parts. Can someone help, or lead me to a site that explains the procedure for something that should be so simple.
  • Hello all. My first time here, so if I violate any ordinances, feel free to correct me. I don't know how to reply to some of these. Onward:
    I own a 92 Jetta. Gasoline engine. Love the car. Bought it used, right now it's got close to 145,000 miles on it. Been across the country with it 4 times already. I have more than just one question, so if you want to reply to my userid ([email protected]) instead of on this board, please do, with my apologies.

    ISSUE 1: engine slugginess. I read in here where premium gas creates carbon build up. I had no idea. Occasionally, I would fill it up with premium, especially when I drove it at the high altitudes in Colorado and Utah. Today, I'm now pouring in that injector cleaner stuff to bring back some peppiness to the car it used to have. But this week I plan to take it to the VW Dealer shop to do a thorough cleaning of the injectors and carburetor.
    Will that be good money spent?($100)

    Issue 2: the cooling fan. When I'm idling, the temperature climbs to about the center, the fan comes on and generally I see the temperature needle go back down slightly. But the fan sounds different this time. I don't know how to explain it. Before, it sounded pretty loud. Now, sometimes it's barely audible, other times it has this weird sound. Is this just my imagination?
    Also, when it idles for a while, sometimes, not always, I smell this really odd smell, almost metallic. Catalytic converter? The injector cleaner doing its work?

    ISSUE 3: In case anyone wondered, if it's hard to start or the RPM races when you push in the clutch to shift, check the oxygen sensor. About $100 to replace. What's that other oxygen thing that costs $550 to replace? Never heard of that.

    Thanks everyone. Edward
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    This covers 1999.5-2001 models, from what I have heard (MKIV only).


    http://mach.mach-nine.com/gti/vwtechcontent/vwpdf/v970101.pdf

  • lkuav8rlkuav8r Posts: 16
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 Passat with 5067 miles on it. I was going to take it to the dealer for the first service. They were going to charge $35 for what seems to be a simple oil change. He also said they use castrol GTX. I was thinking for $35 I could do it myself (and use a synthetic)! I notice it has a audi filter on it. Anybody change their own oil or have advice WRT this?

    thx!
  • lkuav8rlkuav8r Posts: 16
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 Passat with 5067 miles on it. I was going to take it to the dealer for the first service. They were going to charge $35 for what seems to be a simple oil change. He also said they use castrol GTX. I was thinking for $35 I could do it myself (and use a synthetic)! I notice it has a audi filter on it. Anybody change their own oil or have advice WRT this?

    thx!
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    I do change my own oil on my 02 Golf. The recommended oil is 5w40, which is a synthetic oil. If 5w40 is not available, 5w30.

    You'll end up needing a set of car ramps, T-25 torx driver for the belly pan, 19mm wrench for the oil drain plug....
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 370
    Thanks for this info! I would appreciate a few more details: You said "T-25 torx driver for the belly pan..."

    Is the belly pan the plastic shield that is under the front part of the engine? How may bolts hold it on? How many quarts do you need with filter? What brand of filters do you use and where do you get them?

    Thanks, Dan
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Yeah the belly plan is the plastic shield. I think it's 7 screws.


    The engine oil capacity is about 5 quarts (the exact number is in the owner's manual, I think it's 4.7).


    The first change I bought it at the dealership.


    The second & third one, I got at Autozone, it was Purolator, but it was imported from Germany, it is a Hengst filter, which is one of the German OEM filter manufacturers.


    Mann filters I've heard are good also. I plan on ordering them soon at http://www.vwparts.com Impex Auto parts, I'm told is very good.

  • dougm1dougm1 Posts: 16
    Does anybody know how the engine air filter is accessed on the 2003, 1.8T? Battery looks like a pain to get to, also.
  • I remember reading along time ago that a new
    car's oil should be changed at the 1,000 mile
    mark. Vw says its fine until you reach the 5,000
    mile mark. What do you guys think and why?

    Thanks
    David
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I have an 02 1.8T Jetta. Had the oil changed at 5K per factory schedule. Have 26.5K miles on the car thus far with no problems. I would go with the factory schedule if I were you.
  • If you have a new VW or any car I would recommend changing the oil at 1K. Consider the 5K oil change a bonus. Let's face it, changing the oil in your car early can only benefit the vehicle. A new engine seats in all the moving parts during the break in period and this causes a normal amount of initial wear during break in. It's also the period of time where the engine's oil filter will pick up all the super fine metal particles that are being "sheared" off into the oil during this process.
    Jiffy Lube recommends changing the oil in your car every 3K or 3 months. Whichever comes first. I tend to agree with them. Except on a brand new engine. Some might argue that the reason they do that is to sell oil changes and make money. Which may be true. Then you have the dealer. Which says it only needs it every 5K. And some may say that the only reason they recommend this is to save on warranty costs since the first 24K on a VW is free concerning oil changes. At least mine was. And let's face it, the longer you go between changes, the faster your engine will wear internally. Plain and simple.
    I have a 01 Jetta VR6 and I changed my oil myself at 1K with a dealer purchased filter. Then i let them do it at 5K. I then changed it myself at 7,500 and then let them do it again at 10K. So it went until they stopped doing it for free. It cost me money but my engine runs (and sounds) perfectly tuned with no knocks or ticks. The oil is also still a beautiful golden brown, not black. Im not saying that people that observe the 5K interval will have issues but I can guarantee you if you let that brand new engine go to 5K before your first change the oil will be jet black when you bring it in for service. And the car will still be pretty much brand new. Just seems like a pretty sad way to treat a brand new car. But hey at least VW isn't recommending a 7,500K service interval for the oil. Like a lot of car companies did in their owners manuals in the 80's and early 90's. Heck, some may still call for this. These mileage recommendations (7.5K) were called for in the owners manuals under "normal" driving conditions. But what most people don't realize is our everyday driving IS considered "severe service" driving. IE, stop and go traffic, dusty weather, extreme cold and heat etc. These are not "normal" conditions. Nor do they warrant letting a change interval go to 7.5K. OR 5K in my opinion.
    But it's also my opinion that the faster your engine starts wearing out and blowing smoke the sooner you'll purchase a new one...along with the car it sits in. Letting your oil go for extended intervals is extremely tough on the rings and upper valve train in particular. Most cars these days are over head cam units (all VWs are) and it doesn't take much for these engines to starve the camshaft for oil if too much heated oil varnish builds up in the oil galley ways. The wear occurs at idle conditions if your engine gets to this point and doesn't get the pressure it needs at lower rpms. Ok, that's the end of my tirade for today. Bottom line.....change your oil......often. It can only do your car good.
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