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Mazda Protege5
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So go ahead, blame me for even better price/performance than you anticipated.
That aside - Mervin, we alluded to several past discussions of the merits of various "off-brand" tires. All it would take is the use of the SEARCH function for this discussion to get all your answers.
We're an impatient, witty and friendly bunch here - so sometimes we get lost and don't necessarily repeat old discussions (unless its something fascinating and earth-shaking like disc vs drum brakes or ABS vs. non-ABS) - so a search would solve that problem for you!
V - 149 MPH
I considered this, but for my driving, I doubt it will matter much. Now that I usually have a baby in the back, my driving is decidedly calmer.
The Kumhos put up better survey numbers in every category, plus they have the same treadwear number (360). It was also $61 vs. $108
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/comparison/articles/100452/article- - - .html?tid=edmunds.h..reviews..18.*
I can not find a Yakima "mightymount" that fits on my P5 roof rack rails. The rails are 2 5/8" by 1".
Has someone found something like the Yakima "mightymounts" to allow you to bolt various products to the roof rack?
Thanks!
"The BJ1H-66-9M0 (new style) has a button to open the lid while the BJ0E-66-9M0 (old style) is opened by pushing the whole cover in and releasing. The newer style retails for $90 while the old style is even more. I'd contact a salvage yard if you are set on getting one. Another option is to use the pre-99 style (B02A-66-9M0A) that is just a simple pocket and retails for $10."
I really want to get more oomph, and have considered new speakers with an amp that has speaker level inputs. I don't really want to go that route either though.
I think if I can assure myself of the look of going with a new unit, I'd just do speakers and a head unit and be done with it.
I've also really become fed up with the inablilty to have an input to my stereo. I'm using a Belkin FM modulator now, that works ok, but the sound is kind of flat.
I wanted to buy a P5 with the factory rack, but ended up getting one without, and scaring up a second-hand Yakima system. It works great. (I test-drove the car with and without the roof rack, and compared noise with the moonroof tilted and slid. The factory crossbars make for a lot of wind noise when moonroof tilted up. This is because the front crossbar is almost exactly above the trailing edge of the moonroof panel.)
Regarding wind noise: My car came with the moonroof spoiler, which cuts down considerably on the wind noise, especially at highway speeds. (I've driven it with and without the thing installed.) If anybody is complaining about wind noise with the moonroof, I HIGHLY recommend getting the OEM spoiler.
I experimented a lot with different spoiler configurations with the Yakima rack:
- With OEM spoiler, no Yakima spoiler: lots of wind noise. Pretty much intolerable.
- With OEM spoiler, and Yakima Windjammer (a little airfoil for the crossbar): about the same. Lots of wind noise, pretty much intolerable.
- Without OEM spoiler, with Yakima spoiler: a lot less wind noise, not as quiet without rack installed.
- Without OEM spoiler, with Yakima spoiler and Windjammer: no change. (I.e., Windjammer doesn't make a difference in airflow if a Yak spoiler is installed, too. At least, not on the P5.)
So. In conclusion, the quietest setup (for a car with a moonroof) is without any roof rack and the OEM spoiler installed. The quietest setup I've found with a rack installed is with the Yak rack installed with a Yak spoiler. Unfortunetely you need to remove the OEM spoiler to install the Yak rack and spoiler, and a little turbulence sneaks in under the bottom lip of the Yak spoiler when the moonroof is slid open.
Some people have installed a Thule spoiler on a Yak rack; it may be quieter, because the bottom lip of the Thule spoiler sits down a little lower on the car, just below the top lip of the windshield. I don't know about the specifics of the installation, though. It would be great if it fit without having to take off the OEM spoiler.
I've found that a lot of the wind noise with Yak the rack (and Yak spoiler) installed seems to come from the little retractable runner on the leading edge of the moonroof frame. Flip it down, and the noise seems to go away. (What's the point of that retractable thing, anyway?)
I'll take a pic of my JVC so you can judge for yourself.
I just wish manufacturers would quit making their own radios and just put a standard din space that you could put your own in or buy one of theirs.
My biggest problem with buying a new head unit is the buttons. I was at Best Buy the other day and all the head units had the tinyest little buttons on them. That drives me nuts. I like the big buttons on my Mazda radio.
...to make noise,...of course.
Actually I think it keeps wind from cutting down through the moonroof opening and adding to the turbulance. It probably helps most when you have your side windows down.
meinrad-I'll send you a picture of mine with the Scosche adapter. I think it looks good, I just wish the pocket was taller. I don't regret upgrading at all. I haven't done the speakers yet, and I don't think I will. The speakers don't sound that bad with adequate power going through them. New ones would probably sound better, but not $200-$300 better.
I got a much better deal from sounddomain.com than Crutchfield. I save $80 over Crutchfield's price. I went to epinions.com, found the lowest price, and sounddomain matched it.
I got my head unit for the front AUX jack, and the rotary encoder. The buttons were also a little easier to use than most aftermarket units, but nowhere as easy as the stock head unit (I only replaced it because it stopped playing CDs...glad I got the tape player, cause I then relied solely on my iPod for tunes for a while).
Anyway, the double-DIN opening has a plastic bar across the opening. This supports whatever is mounted in the upper half (where I put my head unit). If you want to mount a double-DIN head unit, you'll have to cut this bar out. You could mount your head unit in the lower half and put the storage pocket in the upper half, if you wanted.
I got my pocket from a local dealer. I think I paid $10.25, including tax. The texture on the plastic doesn't match, but then neither does the bezel trim on the JVC. Oh well. It's not that deep either. The space is probably another 1.5inches deeper than the pocket is. I think it looks better than the "universial" pockets that are out there. Cheaper too (the ones I found at Best Buy and Circuit City were around $30 and up). I'll take pics (with my junk and without my junk) at lunch today and try to post them here (I've got to figure out how...if not here, then the other place).
Looking at the tread, it is apparent just how worn my Dunlops are. Despite being well above the wear bar, the tread is half or less what the new Kumhos are.
Getting them installed later and will report tomorrow how they are. They certainly look good. Nice deep central groove should evac water well. it's a directional tread.
One note. On my Dunlops, I always rotated them myself, going only back to front, and they wore well and stayed quiet. But then a garage rotated them X way, that's when the howling began.
They say radial tires, even non-directional one, get worn in a certain way and that going X (side to side) when rotating can be a problem. My experience confirms this.
I don't know exactly how many miles I have on the Dunlops, as I run steelies and snows from Dec.-Mar. but it's in the area of 25k-30k. I've tot 41k on the car.
With proper rotations, I hope to get 3 summers out of the Kumhos.
Kumho ECSTA Supra 712
I still haven't found a head unit I really like, but I haven't looked that hard. I like your JVC about as much as any.
I'm not too concerned about a front input. I'd actually be happier with one on the rear. I want to mount a plug in the back of the storage area and not have a wire going up to the front of the head unit all the time.
And I really like the controls on the P5 stock audio system. Nice big buttons and big dials.
I really could live without the light show on my new stereo, but it's better than most out there. I'm surprised more people don't suffer seizures from looking at them. I personally find even mine distracting at night. At least I can turn off the dancing lights (though it's buried a bit under a couple of menus...nothing compared to BMW's iDrive, even their newer, simpler one).
Some Panasonic models are pretty straightforward with rotary encoders (dials) and larger buttons (and thus smaller displays). Strangely enough, these tend to be their higher-end models.
There are some trick ones with fold-down control panels, so the controls are bigger (I think Sony and Aiwa...kind of the same company, really), but these are also deeper, and may not fit your P5.
If, at any time in the future, you may consider adding a CD or MP3-CD-changer, or XM radio - consider buying Pioneer or Alpine. very easy digital connectivity.
I'll try to post a pic of mine one of these days, it also has the lower pocket - but remember - in the 2nd gen Pro, the locations and positions are different then in the 3rd gen (and P5).
Nice and quiet on the highway, probably a bit louder then the Dunlops when new, but much, much quieter then they were worn.
Great grip in the twisties.
The look larger, but I think that is an illusion due to the squarer shoulders of the Kumhos.
After all was bought shipped, mounted, balanced, and the old ones disposed of, it cost me $360.
now if I can just get my rear brakes to stop squeeling....... grrrrrr..........
My wife is complaining about not getting better mpg in her P5 (average about 28mpg). She complains because she thinks she got better in her Saturn SL2 (which got about 29mpg...I know, I've tracked the economy of her Saturn for years, along with those of my cars).
Anyway, any suggestions on tires that can improve her mpg with decent dry and wet traction? I think she can give up some handling, as she doesn't push it that hard. I was thinking of going narrower as well, which might help reduce rolling resistance. Tire Rack doesn't seem to offer anything better than the stock Dunlops. I'd prefer all-seasons to summer-only tires.
I went wider, not narrower and I don't think I've noticed a bit of difference. My wife just mentioned yesterday how she thought her mpg has been great considering she drives 35 mph back roads to work. We've been seeing about 28 mpg on mostly her work commute. I feel that's pretty good.
Bruno, who might end up working for Michelin as he has a job interview with them!
I'm looking at Michelin Hydroedge and Harmony tires. Seem to have decent all-season performance, and longer tire wear. I know most of the snow and wet traction gets lost about half-way through the tread (about as deep as all those little sipes go).
We'd have to go 205/55-16, so it'll be a bit wider and about 5% more in circumference, so she'll have to keep her speedometer reading a little lower than what she's used to. The Hydroedge costs about the same as the SP5000M. The Harmony costs about $10 less.
I think 28mpg is pretty good for the shape of the P5 and the type of traffic my wife drives in (mostly highway, but stop-n-go in the afternoons, plus some extended open highway when she goes to rehearsals and stuff). Maybe I should convince her to try carrying more speed through corners so she doesn't waste fuel braking and then accelerating for them. :P
I find with my Protege that I get my best economy when cruising on flat terrain from 40-50 mph, depending on relative air speed. I can get 38mpg, even with stops at traffic lights and some light grades. I don't get any better than 34 on the freeway, and that's IF I can restrain myself to going at 65mph.
I usually go about 70mph and average about 32mpg on the freeway. I could get better with more efficient tires, but I really like my Dunlop SP Sport A2s (even if I can't get more than 30,000 miles out of them...they've been very good to me, and I don't think I'd like the way the Avid T4 would likely squeal the way I take corners).
Normally, good grip means more rolling resistance, however the LRR technology allows somehow to combine the best of these two properties by using a special rubber compound. Below is the scientific tests of several tires, please pay attention to the second column where the rolling resistances are given (lowest numbers are better).
http://www.umweltdaten.de/uba-info-presse/hintergrund/03pkw-reife- nliste.pdf
I'm affraid you're left with the only option to chose narower tires.
Yes, it would be cool if I could test drive the new tires when I work for Michelin, but I'm afraid they might lock me in the room to do some tire modeling for them. But I haven't get there yet...
Bruno
And I'd stick with the grippier tires myself.
But, it's my wife's P5, and she doesn't want me to meddle with it much (she wouldn't even let me upgrade the speakers). I'm just looking for easy modifications for her, like more-efficient tires etc.
I'll be moving her to synthetic motor oil the next change, which will help a little too.
I'm considering the Michelin Harmony and Hydroedge. I haven't had good experience with Continentals, but that was about 15 years ago on my dad's Taurus. It will mean a move to 205/55-16, which means she'll be going 68mph when the speedo reads 65mph and lose a little acceleration, but I think those'll be OK with her. Between the lower rolling resistance and the slightly lower engine speed, she should eke out 1-2 more mpg. Tire Rack indicates tires up to 225 in width should fit the P5 and Protege sedan.
It took a little while to get used to the look of those when I put them on. 55's will be even a little bigger.
205/50-16 and 205/45-16 are both just 1.7% off (more and less, resp.). That is much more acceptable.
Anyway, I doubt she'll want to replace her tires before they're worn, so we'll see if the switch to synth oil helps enough.
ashu (furiously taking notes and absorbing non-car-related nuggets of wisdom)
And let's get back to the subject of the Mazda Protege5!
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
Probably cheaper than any other solution too.
Shows that sometimes it takes a slightly different perspective to solve a problem.
And I still have that gas container from my cross-country trip (I didn't want to run out of gas while driving through Arizona...gas stops looked kind of sparse on the map) right after school. Hmmm.
I just read an article in the NY Times in which a study was done showing that side air bag systems that offer protection for the torso and head appear to be considerably more effective than those that protect just the torso. Does anyone know which is the type of side air bag found in the P5?
Ant
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/side_airbag_2003/mazda.h- tm