I was wondering if anybody has had any success in finding winter tires for the P5. So far I've been told that the cheapest route to go is to buy 14" rims and winter tires to fit that rim (this wouldn't do very much for the appearance of the car). I did find winter tires that would fit but these are Pirelli tires and would cost over $1000+ Cdn for four tires.
Has anybody found winter tires that would fit on the factory rims at a reasonable price?
It's gonna be cheaper in the long run to get the winter's mounted on seperate rims. They don't have to balance the tires every year, just take one set off and put on the other. Simple.
I'm not sure if the P5 can go down to 14 inch rims. Currently the P5 has 16 inch tires and rims. I know you can go -1 size ok, but I'm not sure if you can go -2, which is what you'd be doing if you tried to go w/ 14 inch rims.
My '01 LX 2.0 had 15 inch tires and I can go from P195/55/15 to P185/65/14, making only a negligible
difference in odometer reading.
Have you looked at Michelin Arctic Alpins? They are going to be my choice for this winter. The prices I've been getting are about $520 w/out rims. So w/ rims they would be about $700 CDN.
If you want to check out what different tire sizes will be like, goto this page:
Man, you have heavy right foot? 23mpg seems indeed low. My Hwy/St driving balance is pretty much like yours, and I use AC too, but I end up about 28.5mpg. I don't think the type of transmission (I have a manual) and gently hilly road in Austin (Houston is flatter) could explain the difference of 5mpg. I use 89 (R+M)/2 grade gas, but it shouldn't make any difference either.
BTW, I don't understand the 2th row of your spread sheet: the distance should be 1031-804=227 miles, but you have 196 miles instead. What's wrong?
I removed my roof rack after a couple of weeks of ownership. I liked the way it looked, but the wind noise was driving me crazy. Without the roof rack, I have noticed a considerable decrease in wind noise. My mileage has improved slightly, but it was never bad to begin with. At 1900 miles, my best tank has been 30 mpg and the worst was 26.5 mpg. On average, I've been getting 28 mpg. My driving is mainly highway.
I bought a set of 15" aluminum rims and Michelin Pilot Alpins from Discount Tire for about $700. The rims were on closeout and only $65 bucks each. The Pilots are slightly more performance rated than the Arctics.
What's your methods of obtaining MPGs? Unless we use a standardized way of measuring and all of us stick to the same method, i think there's going to be differences across the board. How you mesure the amount of gas used? Based on a full tank?
Also, driving conditions do vary ALOT -- traffic, hills/flat roads, elevation, temperature, driving habits, AC (on/off)....
That's why i'm not surprised to see 5 MPG differences at all. And yes, automatics do consume more fuel.
Try this - start with a full tank, then zero the trip odometer. When you fill up, record the miles driven, divide by the fuel it takes to refill.
If you do it only once, there can be plenty of error, but if you keep a chart and do it repeatedly, that error becomes insignificant.
Also, to calculate a true average, add up all the miles, divide by all the gallons used, to get a weighted average. Do not average your averages.
Why? Well, let's say you drive 400 miles in the city, and get 20mpg using 20 gallons. Then you drive a 40 mile trip, and get 40mpg on 1 gallon, but refill early. So you average 30mpg, right?
Wrong. You drove 440 miles and used 21 gallons, for a true weighted average of 20.95 mpg. The 30mpg average of averages is grossly incorrect.
If you fill up your tank at about the same mileage every time (say, 300 miles), then the effect is smaller.
what octane is everyone using? my dealers said nothing higher than 87 cuz the others will just burn hotter and not necessarily cleaner. the driver's manual also states a minimum of 87, using the R+m/2 method. in my mind tho, i feel like at least 89 should be used.
Manual says 87, I'm sticking to 87. Why pay extra? Mazda isn't trying to screw with you...they put it in the manual for a reason. Of course, I don't think it hurts to put a higher octane in (except in the wallet), but then again, I'm no expert by any means. Just my thoughts.
Check out the article in last month's Car & Driver. They basically concluded you should use what the manufacturer recommends. Some cars designed to run on regular made less power with premium.
I reset the trip odometer at each fillup. I always fill up when the low fuel light comes on and it always takes around 12-12.5 gallons.
Then I divide the number of miles I've gone "on that tank" by the amount of gas I put in. I do this with every fillup and so far it has been between 28-31 MPG. Pretty consistant.
I've been doing the reset odometer at fillup, compare miles to gallons deal. I'm averaging close to 30 mpg. This is in Florida, paved roads, no snow (duh). I've not noticed any difference in mileage between interstate only roadtrips and my daily stop-and-go commute, which I found rather surprising. I've been getting this mileage from the first tank, and now I have ~2500 miles on mine.
Yeah, I'm pretty fussy about tracking my cars' fuel economy. I get about 27mpg on my 323 and 29 on my Pro. I get better economy during the temperate months of course.
You can use the history to help spot maintenance or other issues, as well as satisfying your curiosity. I actually figured out someone was siphoning fuel out of my 323 in the parking lot at work. I noticed a dip of 3-4mpg and got a locking gas cap. My economy magically returned to normal.
You can also spot when gas stations over-report (as in cheating you out of fuel) how much fuel they sell you when you consistently get 3-4mpg better at a particular station. I think that one station I complained about a few months ago got busted because my calculations when I fill up there have been consistent with other stations for a while now. Of course, they did get new owners about that time....
I'm using 89 (R+M)/2, just for a sake of having some safety margin. It costs me $1.2 every gas tank. The reason is: a friend of mine has a Maxima, and when he uses the recommended grade, he get few knocking, especially when it going uphill at low RPM. It looks like the 87 grade gas found on the some gas stations might be actually lower than... 87. I think for those who live in the snow country where starting in the 2th gear is required now and then, it may be better to put higher octane so the engine never knocks.
Doesn't Nissan recommends premium for Maxima? I think modern day electronics controlled engines just won't knock. Ignition will be retarded when the knock sensors detect it.
Most cars with high compression engines recommend premium. On those cars you are correct, most of them will retard the timing to keep it from knocking. The article that "ateixeira" mentioned had great information on it. Definatly worth checking out.
where is this accesory list you're talking about? Is it a whole exhaust system or just a tailpipe? How does it affect the sound? I'd like to add a low growl to my zoom.
I'm not sure what my mpg is because I haven't really been keeping track. I use 86 octane gas because that's what the regular here is (at all stations). I think it may be 86 instead of 87 to compensate for altitude but honestly I don't know.
Seriously, stop using anything other than the manufacturer's recommended octane in your vehicles. You will be doing your engine and fuel/air mixing and timing system harm!
The computer will try to adjust air-fuel ratios and firing timings based on octane!
So STICK TO REGULAR which is 85/86 in the Mountain West because of the altitude (you're right elec3), and 87/88 elsewhere.
It is part of the accessory list from Mazda, along with bumper protector and other things. It is supposed to be at least the muffler but my dealer soes not have any more info than that.
We're only getting about 23-24mpg on our P5. This is mostle because of LA trafic and A/C on almost all the time. We've never taken it out of town so we don't know how much better it could get.
BTW, iamz mentioned earlier about how to lower the "mids" on P5 stereo, it really works ppl. Please try it and your sound system will sound better. Our seetings: Bass : almost all the way up Mids : 1/3 Trebele : all the way up
That is not my real problem though. I am dissapointed to find that most of my CD's skip tooo much in the stock stero. I have never seen(heard) anything like this before, and I have driven almost every manaufactures 2001 car and tried their stock cd-players. This is by far the worst.
Our's only skipped like once a week at most. It's been pretty good so far; off-course my Alpine CD player almost never skips, but I pay extra $$$$$ for it. I think overall the steroe system is pretty good, especially the bass. I'm planning to put a kenwood tweeter on it, one called KFC-T204. it comes with a crossover and cost about $40. Very good tweeter for the price; I use it on my Millenia, since my Alpine tweeter gone south on me.
So far I have heard only fellow canadians complain about this skipping, maybe it is the cdn. model that is different. I know the usa model has different speakers also?
Happy has a good point. I think the Canadian P5's only come with the 6 disc changer model. So the question is, are people with the 6 disk model the only ones with serious skipping problems? I have not heard a skip yet on my single disc model.
>No one answered my earlier question, what type >of unit is that shown in that picture from 15-20 >posts ago?
Sorry. Wasn't online in a while. That picture is of an german 323f (our protege5) interior. I have no idea if its a NAV, DVD or something else, but I am trying to establish connections with germany so I can buy one of those for my protege5. Looks very nice and much nicer than those slide out LCD units they sell here.
I have been getting only 26mpg in my auto mp5. This is mostly highway speed (70-75mph)and city driving (50-60mph) but i am also stuck in traffic each day for about an hour. I was expecting more like 28-30 mpg so i am not too impressed. Sound system for me is fine really. I turned down bass to 50% because i don't want to have to remove door panels to change blown speakers. I do have an jensen amp from my mustang but don't want to install it yet, as i also need the capacitor ($100) + box ($70) + sub ($80) + installation ($40) + install kit ($60) and that's a lot of mula. I also don't want anybody to drill holes in my firewall as that is so dumb. If they can't find an existing hole through which to run power wires i won't be getting it installed. Mazda has came out with sport exhaust as some of you have posted and all the dealers in south florida don't even know if its just the muffler or the whole cat-back system. What kind of bs is that. who else is supposed to know if they don't. Zoom-zoom stickers are quite a rarity here know. My protege club picked up a few at the miami auto show. I have seen them in silver, white and red. I have placed a white one on my strut tower brace in the engine compartment. looks very nice. i can't wait for a turbo to come out. If it add something like 50-60hp (with 5-6lb of boost) that would be great. A lot of civics and even toyotas here run turbos now. checking out corksport.com now and their prices are almost outrageous.
The whole seat is leather. The dark color is actually a dark charcoal which matches the dash. We had talked about a bunch of different options, yellow higher up on the seat back, yellow stitching, suede seats around the yellow, etc. All seemed tooooo much for me. I think we got it right on target. Flashy without being absurd.
I've never had a problem w/ skipping in my CDN '01 LX Pro. I think it's skipped once. My co-worker has never complained about her P5 skipping either though, but I will confirm on Tuesday with her. I know she only has a single disc, not a 6-disc changer in her P5.
FYI, I have a Pro '01 ES and got Pirelli Winter Ice Assimetricos on steel rims (195/55R/15) for $700, installed, from my dealer yet. No way you should have to pay over $1000. My alloys/Dunlops are now in my basement. I've seen Canadian Tire flyer and Blizzaks or Alpins are $120 each + rims. Canadian Tire has their own brand, which might be cheaper, of course. Pirelli's tread depth is 100% winter compound, Blizzaks 55%, so I've heard. Check out the Pro Sedans board and Winter Tire board under main Accessories topic.
Does anyone out there put their dog in the back cargo area???? It looks like a tight fit, but I think my Golden Retriever would be OKAY??? Any comments, this is the only thing holding me back on this car.
I was just curious. The way I've bought winter rims in the past is by buying older model alloy rims from the junk yard for a couple bucks each. Now being that this car is brand new....does it share hubs with any other Mazda cars? Specifically I was thinking that there is probably tons of older 15" rims for 626's out there or even Probe GT's might fit. I was just wondering if anyone had actually looked into cross-compatibility for rims. If I could do that I could pick up some Alloys for $25 each and then buy the winter tires.
I'd think it would be ok, depending on exactly how large your retriever is and how long the trip is. Some animals don't like being all closed in while others will happily sleep anywhere they find themselves. I'd say definitely take the hatch cover off (so he can poke his head over the top of the back seat) and if he doesn't fit comfortably or the trip is very long, fold the back seat down for him. Don't forget to let him stretch his legs every time you stop to stretch yours. It'll keep him quiet and your P5 clean
Re: the stereo I haven't really had any skipping problems. I had a store-bought CD skip once when I hit a large and unseen bump. I haven't had any problems with CD-Rs though I did try burning a CD-RW last night just to see how it would play (I didn't realize the stereo would do RWs). It works but it seems like the seek times are longer and a couple times it wouldn't even find the RW, it spit it back out and said CHECK CD. It seems like the unit supports CD-RW almost as an afterthought and not from the ground up.
As a headphone audiophile, I was a bit skeptical about the advice to turn your midrange most of the way down. In hi-fi headphones, midrange is very important to the overall sound because it is where voices and many instruments live. On a good pair of headphones, having insufficient mids will give you dark, distant, and flat sound. It seems that the Pro5 stereo doesn't work that way though If you turn your mids down, your treble up, and adjust your bass to taste, you can turn the volume up (more power, basically) without getting too much volume (because the mids are down and won't overwhelm or screech at you). This simulates how a true high power stereo should sound - adequate bass, bright highs that sizzle, and a midrange that is smooth. Only thing is, the head unit in the Pro doesn't blend the different frequencies well so some types of music still end up sounding flat. I'm listening to a lot of electronic music and hip-hop lately where the instruments are synthetic and tuneful singing is lacking so the settings recommended early work pretty well Thanks for the heads up, I would have never thought to do that myself (unless I was bored and just fiddling with the dials)
How can you find gas with octane other than the Mazda's recommended octane in your vehicles? Here is Texas, so far any gas I found (beside gasoil) is recommended by Mazda.
Also allow me to ask one more time for those who believe that the computer adjusts the air-fuel ratio and spark timing with respect to the minimal required octance (other than when the knock-sensor detects knocking), please provide reading references. I never heard such thing.
It's possible I misread the message, but it sounded like someone said all Canadian Pro5's have the 6CD changers. They don't.
Mine doesn't have the changer and it is quite sensitive to skips. Normal driving is no problem, but any kind of change in surface or roadwork will cause skips.
Comments
Has anybody found winter tires that would fit on the factory rims at a reasonable price?
Thanks
I'm not sure if the P5 can go down to 14 inch rims. Currently the P5 has 16 inch tires and rims. I know you can go -1 size ok, but I'm not sure if you can go -2, which is what you'd be doing if you tried to go w/ 14 inch rims.
My '01 LX 2.0 had 15 inch tires and I can go from P195/55/15 to P185/65/14, making only a negligible
difference in odometer reading.
Have you looked at Michelin Arctic Alpins? They are going to be my choice for this winter. The prices I've been getting are about $520 w/out rims. So w/ rims they would be about $700 CDN.
If you want to check out what different tire sizes will be like, goto this page:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Good luck.
Pro Fan
-juice
- wheel circumference (in mm)=pi*(r*25.4+w*p/50); (1889.4mm for the above example)
- Rev/mile=1.6e6/wheel circumference (846.9 for the above example)
Bruno
23mpg seems indeed low. My Hwy/St driving balance is pretty much like yours, and I use AC too, but I end up about 28.5mpg. I don't think the type of transmission (I have a manual) and gently hilly road in Austin (Houston is flatter) could explain the difference of 5mpg. I use 89 (R+M)/2 grade gas, but it shouldn't make any difference either.
BTW, I don't understand the 2th row of your spread sheet:
the distance should be 1031-804=227 miles, but you have 196 miles instead. What's wrong?
Bruno
It would probably reduce wind noise though, especially if you have a moonroof.
-juice
4 new steel wheels and 4, 195/55QR-15 Michelin Arctic-Alpins
$514. USD shipped from Indiana to VT. Perfect fit.
Also, driving conditions do vary ALOT -- traffic, hills/flat roads, elevation, temperature, driving habits, AC (on/off)....
That's why i'm not surprised to see 5 MPG differences at all. And yes, automatics do consume more fuel.
If you do it only once, there can be plenty of error, but if you keep a chart and do it repeatedly, that error becomes insignificant.
Also, to calculate a true average, add up all the miles, divide by all the gallons used, to get a weighted average. Do not average your averages.
Why? Well, let's say you drive 400 miles in the city, and get 20mpg using 20 gallons. Then you drive a 40 mile trip, and get 40mpg on 1 gallon, but refill early. So you average 30mpg, right?
Wrong. You drove 440 miles and used 21 gallons, for a true weighted average of 20.95 mpg. The 30mpg average of averages is grossly incorrect.
If you fill up your tank at about the same mileage every time (say, 300 miles), then the effect is smaller.
-juice
PF
-juice
Then I divide the number of miles I've gone "on that tank" by the amount of gas I put in. I do this with every fillup and so far it has been between 28-31 MPG. Pretty consistant.
You can use the history to help spot maintenance or other issues, as well as satisfying your curiosity. I actually figured out someone was siphoning fuel out of my 323 in the parking lot at work. I noticed a dip of 3-4mpg and got a locking gas cap. My economy magically returned to normal.
You can also spot when gas stations over-report (as in cheating you out of fuel) how much fuel they sell you when you consistently get 3-4mpg better at a particular station. I think that one station I complained about a few months ago got busted because my calculations when I fill up there have been consistent with other stations for a while now. Of course, they did get new owners about that time....
Bruno
Does anybody know about it?
Thanks.
It should run you about $220
It looks ok...I think the tip is a bit fat for the stock cut-out.
I think modern day electronics controlled engines just won't knock. Ignition will be retarded when the knock sensors detect it.
The computer will try to adjust air-fuel ratios and firing timings based on octane!
So STICK TO REGULAR which is 85/86 in the Mountain West because of the altitude (you're right elec3), and 87/88 elsewhere.
It is part of the accessory list from Mazda, along with bumper protector and other things. It is supposed to be at least the muffler but my dealer soes not have any more info than that.
BTW, iamz mentioned earlier about how to lower the "mids" on P5 stereo, it really works ppl. Please try it and your sound system will sound better.
Our seetings:
Bass : almost all the way up
Mids : 1/3
Trebele : all the way up
zoom-zoom
That is not my real problem though. I am dissapointed to find that most of my CD's skip tooo much in the stock stero. I have never seen(heard) anything like this before, and I have driven almost every manaufactures 2001 car and tried their stock cd-players. This is by far the worst.
Has anyone else noticed this?
http://hometown.aol.com/audia8q/myhomepage/business.html
rich
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
Sorry. Wasn't online in a while. That picture is of an german 323f (our protege5) interior. I have no idea if its a NAV, DVD or something else, but I am trying to establish connections with germany so I can buy one of those for my protege5. Looks very nice and much nicer than those slide out LCD units they sell here.
This is mostly highway speed (70-75mph)and city driving (50-60mph) but i am also stuck in traffic each day for about an hour. I was expecting more like 28-30 mpg so i am not too impressed. Sound system for me is fine really. I turned down bass to 50% because i don't want to have to remove door panels to change blown speakers. I do have an jensen amp from my mustang but don't want to install it yet, as i also need the capacitor ($100) + box ($70) + sub ($80) + installation ($40) + install kit ($60) and that's a lot of mula. I also don't want anybody to drill holes in my firewall as that is so dumb. If they can't find an existing hole through which to run power wires i won't be getting it installed.
Mazda has came out with sport exhaust as some of you have posted and all the dealers in south florida don't even know if its just the muffler or the whole cat-back system. What kind of bs is that. who else is supposed to know if they don't. Zoom-zoom stickers are quite a rarity here know. My protege club picked up a few at the miami auto show. I have seen them in silver, white and red. I have placed a white one on my strut tower brace in the engine compartment. looks very nice. i can't wait for a turbo to come out. If it add something like 50-60hp (with 5-6lb of boost) that would be great. A lot of civics and even toyotas here run turbos now. checking out corksport.com now and their prices are almost outrageous.
But i think the player could be a bit over sensitive... the CDRs that i have recorded plays without a hitch in all my other CD players at home.
Rich
Check out the Pro Sedans board and Winter Tire board under main Accessories topic.
Any thoughts?
i don't remember seeing leather seats as options...
Re: the stereo
I haven't really had any skipping problems. I had a store-bought CD skip once when I hit a large and unseen bump. I haven't had any problems with CD-Rs though I did try burning a CD-RW last night just to see how it would play (I didn't realize the stereo would do RWs). It works but it seems like the seek times are longer and a couple times it wouldn't even find the RW, it spit it back out and said CHECK CD. It seems like the unit supports CD-RW almost as an afterthought and not from the ground up.
As a headphone audiophile, I was a bit skeptical about the advice to turn your midrange most of the way down. In hi-fi headphones, midrange is very important to the overall sound because it is where voices and many instruments live. On a good pair of headphones, having insufficient mids will give you dark, distant, and flat sound. It seems that the Pro5 stereo doesn't work that way though
Also allow me to ask one more time for those who believe that the computer adjusts the air-fuel ratio and spark timing with respect to the minimal required octance (other than when the knock-sensor detects knocking), please provide reading references. I never heard such thing.
Bruno
Mine doesn't have the changer and it is quite sensitive to skips. Normal driving is no problem, but any kind of change in surface or roadwork will cause skips.