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Comments
Bruno
As stated on my window (by law) and my VIN starts with a J.
Trust me, Edmund's should have fixed that by now. A big reason why I BOUGHT the car was that it is one of the last, truly Japanese cars you can buy. I plan to keep it a looooonnnnggg time. :-)
Seriously, thanks for the info guys. I believe you :-)
--Bart
P5 Japan
626 US
Millenia Japan
Miata Japan
MPV Japan
Tribute US
Truck / B series US
RX8 Japan
6 probably US and japan
Hope this helps. Enjoy your new P5!
That and the Flat Rock, Michigan plant (626) are the only sources of American made Mazdas.
The new Mazda 6 will be built at Flat Rock.
Also, referring to previous posts, it is made in Japan. The poster who said "J" at the start of the VIN number indicates Japan was correct.
Thanks for any info on roof rack.
Speaking of (pardon the pun)...has anyone tried installing speakers from Crutchfield.com? They make it sound simple and inexpensive, and the P5 door seems like an easy one to remove. Appreciate any input.
-juice
My wife's 1995 626 has a decent radio, and my 1993 Miata is pretty good, but the CD skips now. 8 years old, can't complain if that's my biggest problem with the car.
My Miata has the psychedelic Mazda Sensory Sound stereo with the bass thumpers behind the seats, headrest speakers, and door tweeters. There are a total of 8 speakers in that tiny little cockpit.
-juice
by mp5freak Jan 03, 2002
Mp5freak, consider the goodwill you create when having preventative maintenance completed by your local Mazda dealer. It's true that service is a profit center for auto (Mazda) dealerships, nonetheless free warranty work can only be completed by a Mazda dealers service department. There are instances where a Mazda franchise dealership will repair or adjust something that the manufacture won't. These could be items that are border line customer abuse, or repairs after the manufacture's warranty expires and even items that fall outside of original Mazda warranty coverage. How far will a service manager go out on a limb for someone he has never seen before? Just a thought on "goodwill" and suggested maintenance.
-Larry
by vocus Jan 05, 2002 (07:04 pm)
Yea right, someone on a $17,750 Mazda PRO-5 wagon budget is gonna jump up and spend $24,500 for a Volkswagen turbo wagon? Your half right, the V-Dub Jet is a small car. However, the $5,000 to $7,000 price differance, puts the Jet in it's own niche or maybe shopped against the more reliable, better performing Subaru WRX Wagon? Nevertheless, the Jet Wagon is a verrry nice car! I think the PRO-5 is more likely shopped against the Ford Focus Wagon or the Hyundai Elantra Hatch? Just my 2 cents, any other opinions folks?
-Larry
http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1092&pagenumber=2
For the details. I might be able to make it, depending on whether or not I'll be in Orlando instead...
I also agree on the Jetta vs. P5 comments...yeah, the Jetta is $4,000 or so more, which is why I gave my 60,000-mile Jetta to my son for graduation and went for the P5...I wanted a stick, a moonroof and the 0% down, 0% interest deal since I was financing 100%. It's really a terrific deal. The stereo is my only complaint (that, and the lack of variable intermittent wipers).
I compared P5 (which is my first Mazda, but the Protege was my second choice when I shopped for the Jetta in '99) to Elantra GT hatchback, Civic, Sentra (I've had 2 of those and loved them...but Nissan only gives you P5 or Jetta-like packages if you get the new SE-R. Then they want like $19,000 for them and it's, well, a Sentra! And the seats are unacceptably hard. I drove a 2001 Sentra SE, too, and was shocked at how much I didn't like it.
All in all, the Protege5 is a great little car so far. Thanks again for info on crutchfield.
Here's mine sans rack . . .
The front required no modification. Just an easy replacement. The rear, however, required a bracket between the door opening and the speaker. Not difficult. Just make sure you screw them in tightly.
The hardest part when removing the door panels was the handles(the padded handles....not the small door opening handles) ....especially on the rear door. They came off very hard. Be careful on this. You need the proper 'prying tool' for this. Ask Crutchfield for one. There are clips behind the handles which are secured very tight. It requires a lot of pulling.
I still don't get it. I popped off the small piece BEHIND the rear rack, and the small piece in front of the forward rack. I saw the phillips screws on top of each side of each bar. I didn't see any other screws.
Isn't there a way to simply adjust the rear rack without taking everything off? I appreciate any assistance.
Bruno
Bruno
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I took my rack off to see what it looked like. Its not hard. You need a philips screwdriver and a cresent wrench or sockets. The front one is the easiest. Just look where they attach to the roof. You will see two screws (If you are short, get a chair so you can look down on rack from above. You will see these screws) that will need to come out. This will enable you to remove cover(two pieces), and will reveal a bolt. Just take those cover pieces off, remove bolt and your done. Then plugs just snap in. The rear is a little differnt. Remove the cover the same way. I think the rear has the main bolt, and two more screws to take out. Then slide the washer the bolt was in out of the railing. The plugs will snap right in. I thought it looked ok without them, but it would look super cool if instead of putting plugs in them, the black rails were gone altogeather. Maybe the rack should have been an option. Sometimes its nice to have a choice. I ended up putting mine back on...the black rails just look out of place without the rack attached. The antenna just screws out of its base. If it was ever standing in the way of putting cargo on the roof, it can easily be taken off.
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Bruno
Bruno
Bruno
Just kidding! Couldn't resist.
Try shifting earlier. Unless I am in a real hurry, I shift no higher then 3k and I cruise at around there too.
I get between 28 and 29 mpg with about 30% highway driving.
Bruno
My car doesn't burn any oil, not enough to tell from the dipstick anyway. The dipsticks on these cars are really inaccurate anyway. They always read "overfull" so if you were a half quart down on the dipstick, it might have been a full quart. It might be because the engine is brand new. I changed the oil on mine at 400 miles, and at 1500 so I wouldn't know if it was using oil intitially. Keep an eye on it.
"#2387 of 2390 by Sporin Jan 07, 2002 (10:24 am)
New manual driver? 22 mpg in a Pro? You knwo it's a **5** Speed right?
Just kidding! Couldn't resist.
Try shifting earlier. Unless I am in a real hurry, I shift no higher then 3k and I cruise at around there too.
I get between 28 and 29 mpg with about 30% highway driving."
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whats so funny? i said "5-speed" :P
Bruno
Quote:
"is actually not counting the reverse. Hope that you are aware about that mnkyboy and sporin. ;-)
Bruno"
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LOL, ha...ha...ha...
Are you serious? I thought it was a 10-speed, like the bike... LOL
thanks
Bruno
Todd