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Comments
One thing to try is to disconnect your lamps and see if the same thing happens. Since the lamps are disconnected, they shouldn't draw any current. If the central console lights dim anyway, it's an intentional feature. If not, then there's something awry with the electrical system.
space on the left of the back area. Argh."
I figured out what this was for! You can actually get a set of golf clubs across the back hatch of the car by using this little cubby! It works great because then you don't have to fold down the seats.
Last night as I was coming across the dessert at dusk, I was annoyed that the A/C on indicator does NOT dim with the lights. I hate a bright dash; hurts my eyes and makes me tired.
That being said, my Protege5 DOES NOT HAVE this problem. The dash stays at roughly the same brightness with or without the lights. The problem I mentioned is that the DIGITAL areas of the front dash (the odometer and the automatic transmission panel) dim dramatically when you turn on the headlights, nearly to the point of unreadability at dusk. As these are controlled via LEDs, while the rest of the dash is a separate circuit, it does appear that Mazda forgot to include some rather inexpensive circuitry there. Oh, well!
Nonetheless, the engineer in me finds it fairly unlikely that Mazda would intentionally dim the two small LED readouts but *not* the rest of the red dashboard elements when the headlights are turned on. Especially since the digital elements are dimmer than the rest of the dashboard to begin with.
But whatever! :-) The flaw is the same: the car's odometer and automatic drive indicators are dimmed so low as to be practically unreadable when the headlights are turned on at dusk. They should have been set to the same brightness as the rest of the dash with the headlights on. Call it a misfeature or bug, it was a design error.
Would you please tell my wife that?
I have access to some good info, but I'm never beyond reproach.
Let me tell you, going from my Protege to my wife's old Cavalier a couple years ago for an 8-hour trip to Spartanburg, S.C. (she asked me to drive the whole way), my back hurt SO BAD by the time we got to Spartanburg that I could hardly sleep that night or get to the wedding we traveled there for the next day.
Any time you change cars, the seats are going to be different. And it's going to take your back a while to adjust after being accustomed to another set of support points for a few years. I noticed you recently purchased this Protege5. Give it some time and I feel your back will get used to the new seat design.
Meade
Bruno
I have heard on occasion cats that ran too hot and melted internally. Usually due to some blockage further down the line. Haven't heard of this issue in regards to Proteges of any generation. You might check alldata.com for a list of TSBs (titles only, unless you pay for the full-text service) on your father's model.
Bruno
For example, my friend scratched some of the vinyl armrest in his Subaru TS. They stick out like a sore thumb. Maybe a professional shop could fix it, but I've yet to find a product that can help.
He's afraid of trying to fix it like you are. If you try to sand it down, you're going to be affecting a large area.
later,
d.
sit fairly straight up, and hence closer to the wheel. I can fold the rear seat without taking the headrest off at all. (Unless I tumble the seat bottom, of course, but that generally buys so little space that I usually don't bother.)
Jess
Could over tightening my lug nuts cause the rotor to warp? Shouldn't they be torqued to around 75-85 ft-lbs.
If it is a warped rotor, would that be covered by my warranty?
Yes and yes.
I think it should. Check.
I'll take it out in the morning and HOPEFULLY feel no pulsating. Wish me luck!