I am trying to remove the CC sensor from my V70 wagon. I have been told I can access it by removing the radio. I have tried this but I still cannot get the sensor out. Does anyone have any idea on how to access and remove the CC sensor.
Hum ! I own a new XC 70 3000 mi. and found a vibration problem i got it out of the dealer. It's like the wheels were square at 40 to 60 miles per hour the car is vibrating without any awkward feeling on the steering wheel. I had the wheels balance, we change the tire the wheels and nothing seems to correct the problem. The dealer told me that it might be a drive shaft problem and is planning to change it in two weeks... hope it will correct the problem ...
Having a somewhat similar problem with my 2001 V70XC (125,000 miles). The dealer is driving it around to see what's up. Preliminary diagnosis is torque converter !!!$$$!!!. Out of warranty. Please let us know your final resolution.
Hi: I bought a 2006 V70 through the overseas delivery program, and have had problems with the tire pressure warning system light coming on for no reason within the first few hundred miles of picking up the car at the factory. I took it to a dealer in Germany and they thought that there was a defective sensor on the front passenger tire. They did not have the part needed to fix the defect, so I decided to wait and take the car to my local dealer upon return to the US. Before I had a chance to do so, my wife drove the car through a car wash, and the vehicle stalled. We had it towed to the dealership, and they found a crimped wire that had shorted out the circuits for the fuel pump and the tire pressure warning light (so much for the defective sensor). It was pure coincidence that the car stalled at a car wash. It could have happened at a busy intersection or on a highway, causing a major accident. I have to say that I'm disturbed and disappointed with this happening to a Volvo. This incident has left me with less confidence that these are the safest vehicles on the road. Just wanted to pass this on in case anybody else out there is experiencing a similar problem with warning lights coming on for no apparent reason. You may want to have your car looked over for any crimped wires that could affect the fuel pump circuit. I also noted that the buttons on the radio and below the radio (i.e. the a/c controls, child locks, etc) get very hot on long trips. It ia actually at times painful to the touch. I mentioned this to my local dealer, and they were essentially unable to reproduce the problem. They tested the car and stated that the buttons do not get any hotter than on any other V70. Does anyone in this forum have a similar experience?? Thanks, Thomas
I have a 2001 XC and it's always getting dinged on the doors. The doors seem to have a design flaw that makes the door panel just under the window stick out further than the side (Protection?) molding itself.
Has anyone else had this problem? I have not read of it here, yet all the CX (after 2001) I have looked at have had many dents on their doors just under the windows.
I have a '02 XC70 wtih 43K that has an odd vibration that you feel when pressing on the accelerator. Our local dealership has chalked it up to 'just the feel of your car' but I am not convinced and am concerned it may be an indicator of something serious (read: costly). Has anyone else run into something similar? I have heard that engine mounts wear early on these vehicles.
I have a 2001 V70 and recently I have noticed a "clunk" noise when I pull away from a standstill. It sounds like it is coming from the front left of the car and part of the driveshaft or other. It only occurs when pulling away or applying the accelerator after coasting for a while. Anyone had this one before, any thoughts? Taking it in to the mechanic, but thought I would run it by the board first. Thanks.
Sounds like it could be a Constant Velocity joint or U-joint. Look under the left front wheel (you may have to put it on a jack stand/ramp, but maybe not if you turn the wheel all the way to the right before shutting it off). Look for the boots on either end of the drive shaft, and inspect them for tears or leakage, and check the joints for play.
For that matter, I recommend checking the boots for damage regularly - every time you change the oil at least. Once the boot gets damaged, the lubricating grease gets out and gunk gets in, which will lead quickly to joint failure.
Not a terribly complicated DIY job on most FWD cars (never tried it on a Volvo) - it's all mechanical with no computer stuff to mess with - but can be intimidating as a first major repair.
-- Oops - before you do any of this, check the obvious stuff, starting with Tranny fluid levels and checking for leaks.
I have the same issue with a 2001 V70 T5. HAve taken it to 2 different dealers and an independent shop and all find nothing. Watch out for the ETM failure! I just had mine replaced after a fun highway failure and it is about $1000 job. It is a known issue with this car and your dealer should help with the part cost if they are any good. Also there is an open recall on the cooling fan untit that I was not notified about but the dealer performed at last sevice
Looking to install a hitch and trailer lights on my 2005 XC70. Has anyone out there did this. If so is it difficult and are there any pitfalls. I know I'll need one the adapters to power the lights from the battery. Since the battery and trailer fuses are in the rear this should ease the task.
I have a 2004 volvo wagon XC70 and have never gotten better than 17 miles to the gallon. When I called SMart Motors here in Madison, Wisconsin they suggested that I use a different gas station. Since I go to a different one every time, and use only premium gas, that was not very helpful. I would not buy this car again.
I have a 2001 Volvo Cross-country with 65,000 miles. These items have quit working: back door locks,rear door locks, tail gate wiper and fuel door opener. I have replaced appropriate fuses but none are blown nor do new ones fix the problem. The closest dealer is 250 mi and they saw to pry the fuel door open with a screw driver. Does anyone have any less drastic solutions?
I have a 2004 XC70 with 34,000 miles and an intermittent knocking sound in the drivetrain. After driving the car for about a thousand miles with this noise, a vibration has also developed. The Volvo dealer's mechanics say there's nothing wrong with the car.
Today, an independent mechanic took it for a 2 minute test drive, and diagnosed it as having either a bad U-Joint or a bearing going bad in the rear differential. But, because the car is still under warranty I'm trying to get Volvo to fix it.
I dropped the car off at the dealer and told them to call me when it's fixed.
This car has had more than it's share of problems in addition to the driveline noise / vibration.
It has the Bi-Xenon high intensity headlamps, and both headlamp assemblies had to be replaced (under warranty) when the high temperatures of the bulbs cooked the connectors.
The power steering reservoir had to be replaced after it cracked and leaked fluid all over the engine compartment.
I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has had similar problems.
98 V70 XC, 139k, mileage has dropped from around 20 to 17. Using regular 87 octane gas! Should I use higher? I also know other brands of cars has all kinds of funky sensors and when goes out of whack the mileage drops a lot because it's tied into the emission sensors. Any suggestions accepted. I just recently bought the car, love it accept the mileage is a killer. :surprise: Can you use an additive for the gas like the Lucas gas treatment, I have had great luck with this product on other brand cars!
A few weeks ago, I lost one of my 2003 Volvo XC70's remote fobs. I understand that it will cost me about $165 to replace it at my dealership (and I must as my lease is up soon). I can buy a used one on ebay for under $25 but must get it programmed. Is this something I can do myself? If not, do you have any idea what my dealership might charge to do this? Will they even do it with one that did not come with the car?
I have, what sounds like, a shock or engine mount on a 99 XC70 that sounds like to pieces of metal hitting together. The mechanics have tried twice to isolate the noise to no avail. Has anyone had a noise like this? It is particularly bad when going slowly around left turns and is much more pronounced when going slower in general.
The Volvo P&S and there are only 40 posts. Volvo - not known for it's reliability or it's customer relations. Don't get me wrong, the Volvo XC70 has many of the features I'm looking for but I have always had strong reservations based on high incidents of problems in the past. I was hoping to see whether those problems have decreased or not. But with only 40 posts I'm affraid my conclusion is that nobody is buying them any more, therefore a lower reporting of problems (ie - fewer owners, fewer problems)
Minor bummer. Filled up the tank on my wife's new V70 for the first time last night. Low fuel light had been on for maybe ten miles and I got 17 gal. into the tank. That agreed with the manual (1.8 gal. remain when light comes on). I was happy. Then I start it up and the guage only goes up to about one third tank and stops. Checked it a couple more times last night, bounced the bumper, rocked it side to side, and still no joy. Has anyone had this happen, or have some theories? I haven't talked to my wife yet since this morning, so it may have cured itself. If it has I think we won't let the tank get so low again.
Well, the fuel guage has healed itself, at least temporarily. It still is rather curious. Can't wait to see if it does it again at the next fill-up. By the way, the "miles to empty" reading in the information panel also increased as the guage reading went up.
Don't have a problem with it, yet, but I'm concerned for the potential of it happening. Is there a manual release for the fuel door on the 2005 V70? I've looked behind the access hatch for rear bulb changing and didn't see anything obvious, at least without using an inspection mirror. I'd hate to learn it didn't work when the tank was really low, and, of course, that's exactly when it would happen. Thanks for your expert assistance.
Found out last night that it is possible to manually release the fuel door. Just feel around behind the foam covering the mechanism until you locate the cylindrical plunger/latch on the left side of the door. I was able to gently retract it toward the back of the car. It moved easily with very little resistance. Didn't need to remove anything, just open the bulb changing hatch. I assume it will relock when my wife drives off this morning.
I am looking at a 1998 V70 AWD wagon for sale. I have never owned a volvo. Any thoughts , suggestions, cautions for this year & model. What kind of milage can I expect? Any particular trouble spots? Any help greatly appreciated!...Eric
I bought it new in June 05, have 12K miles on it and so far no problems. I bought when Volvo had $8K rebate, got $9K off total msrp and four 7,500 mile services free. Traded 03 Infiniti I35 with 54K miles. Cars have different missions, but all things considered the Volvo seems to be a better car, especially at price paid.
I have searched for off road tests on the XC70 to no avail. Is this beacuse it is not regarded as a 4x4? I have just bought a 2001 XC70 and would like to know how capable it is off road - Shall I stick to gravel or can i take on some loose sand as well. Would appreciate it if anyone can tell me where to find off-road tests or just give me their own experiences off-road
After 20 days without a brand new '06 xc70 in the first three months I can understand your reservations. If time clocks were available I would revert to pre signing and avoid Volvo altogether. Constant vibration 85KM and 125KM 3 wheels rebalanced, one drive shaft replaced, vibration continues and is said to be "the inherent imbalance of a 5 cylinder engine" ?? Tires anyone? Also 2 trips to first replace mid vehicle exhaust bracket and return to do it properly - as very loud squeele starts when driving in moderate slush. Newmarket Ontario
This time my 2006 V70 2.5T broke down on me while I was driving 70MPH on a very busy highway in the fast lane. I tried to accelerate and had no power. Fortunately, the car had enough momentum so I could pull over onto the shoulder. I was then stuck in a car that would not start up at all in over 100F weather with my 2 kids in the car for about an hour, and Volvo's roadside assistance was not the greatest. However, I'm counting my blessings b/c the car could have stalled at a slower speed in the middle lane, and I most certainly would have been hit by another vehicle. The car is now at the dealer again, and I have a feeling that this current problem is related to the previous episode when my car stalled at a car wash. The problem with the tire pressure warning system was finally fixed, but only after many phone calls to Volvo customer service and by involving the regional manager. Volvo actually had to call the dealer to get things done. Needless to say at this point I'm even more frustrated than before with Volvo. Please post if anyone else has had similar experiences. I would love to know if my vehicle is a mutant or if there is a broader problem. I LOVE my car, but seriously am considering getting rid off it and not go with Volvo again.
Picked up the car from the shop. Turns out that the fuel sensor was defective and car ran out of gas, even though the fuel gauge was indicating that the tank was still half-full. Volvo dealer replaced sensor and fuel pump. Yet another electrical problem...
Yep, same here. I have a 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T (80K) and have had the ETM replaced ($1000)[sidenote: Volvo is currently issuing a refund/update to the ETM for ETM-related problems], and the clunk which I have doesn't seem to affect performance, but I think it's related to the sway bar linkage in the front suspension. According to our Volvo dealership, they said that nothing was wrong, but that the sway bars were loose. However, I think the linkage is broken, and allows the suspension to move upon starting up from a stopped position causing a clunk of the suspension moving against the frame of the car... geez, it seems that most of the time, I know what's wrong with my car before Volvo can figure it out, and the dealership justs overprices the repairs. (Soapbox note: Last time I was in, I was asked what services I wanted done on my car concerning the noises I was hearing. Shouldn't they be able to troubleshoot?) Anyway, I'm not sure the sway bar repairs are a DIY job, but if you can, more power to you.
On a second thought, has anyone figured out what the secret to non-warping front brake rotors on the V70? I'm on my third set in 80K miles. That seems a bit obsurd.
I have a 2001 v70 T5 and had the same problem. The gas gauge didn't work either. The dealer had to re-program the computer that controls that portion of the electric's. Don't know how many computers there are but have had to have - engine management, automatic climate, locking system and transmission computers all re-programmed in the year and a half I have owned the car.
I posted some time ago about how much we like our silver '01 XC wagon. Great winter vehicle. Great handling on the Interstates with two couples and lots of luggage aboard, etc. Probably the best seats in the business. BUT, there have been some problems. Lots of them. Most fixed under warranty. For a complete list you could look under an earlier post, but as I recall the transmission, front struts, electric latch on the rear door, Emmission Thottle Module, and other parts have all been replaced under warranty. Maybe more. Non warranty items include the brakes and rotors for a cool $1100, front control arms, and other repairs.
We take good care of the car (Mobil 1, wash it regularly with frequent detailing, don't let things go before fixing them). To avoid oil coking on a hot turbo, I even raise the hood to help dissapate the heat from the engine when we come off the road after a long drive on a hot day. Now at 70K miles we want to keep it out to at least 125K.
But, here we go again. This week two lights came on in rapid succession: check engine light and check emissions. Took it into the dealer and they re-set or adjusted the emissions unit under warranty. (Sorry, can't get full details from my wife.) The very next day, the car would only run on 5 cylinders and the number 3 injector needed to be replaced. That cost $300.
This car has had a lot of service issues in its young life. The dealer is poor. A big sign in the service department says that all cars will be washed before being returned to the customer. Ours has been washed once in 6 years. I have found enough Snap On tools in the engine compartment following service work to stock a Snap On truck. Sure loaners are available. If you book the service work three weeks ahead. Who has that kind of lead time with brakes, ETM issues, etc.?
Here's the dilemma: we like the car when it is running and would like to get more use out of it without buying a new car. If we do buy a new car, to get the kind of hand holding I think we deserve, we would have to step up from "near luxury" to "luxury" and buy a Mercedes E Class wagon. The E Class Fourmatic is nowhere near the vehicle as the XC70 despite a 20K higher price.
Sama here....is like a slight vibration....not too noticeable, but can be noted after a time driving...I noted this happens specially whern driving on rugged pavment, or uneven surfaces in general..as if the pedal was in connection with the suspension, not the engine...
Hello..... I've had mine for few time, but does not seem it will fit for the 4x4 purposes...I think it was created to beat high snow, or mud of the kind you find in countriside roads, but not much more......enyway, I think is perfect fot that¡¡¡
I had a similar problem, which was puzzling me for a while. Then my tire went flat. The tire had started coming apart. I had sliced it up either on a rock or a manhole cover, and it was bulging. The vibration in the gas pedal was due to the tire imbalance. A thorough inspection of the tire would have caught the problem.
Just opened the hood today to look at the engine and found that the vent frame has two screws (hex 10mm) and noted it had lost one of them and the other was loosen. Maybe this is because the vent can hardly be perfectly balanced as in any car, but is a potentially dangerous situation for the engine. So I got another screw and tightened both firmly. Please check that so you dont find yourselves that the vent caused a mess in the place because it was loosen. Also noted the oil bayonette does not seal perfectly and oil drops on the air intake hose. Considering is rubber I am afraid it can be damaged sooner or later, so I cleaned with ecology friendly dirt remover. Besides this our 2002 XC rides beautifuly on highway and has plenty of power to pass or climb. Greetings from Mexico city
I have a 2001 V70 XC and I have had the same experience. 70mph, lost of ability to accelerate. This has happened 3 times. Once, when I pulled over, the car stalled. The car has stalled twice since. No check engine light or computer reading.
Did you learn anything at the dealer? My dealer just shakes his head.
You may want to go in and get the upgraded throttle electronic module re-uploaded. Currently, it's a Volvo fix-without-recall, and costs nothing, except that the dealership might bust a $85 service charge if they find something else wrong with your car. I just ended up paying a $700 charge for additional repairs on the front brake rotor replacements, and a 80K tune up, for what was supposed to be a free ETM upgrade.
I did go in and they upgraded the software, but did not replace the ETM. Apparently they can, but they need to see the correct diagnostic codes first. To date, no codes have shown up.
Any suggestions? If I want to pay for it myself, I can get it done but I pay for it. If I wait, it will keep stalling.
Hmm, well if you want to pay for it, then yes, it may solve the problem. The codes for mine came up first though, and following the replacement ($1300), I've had no troubles (1 year and counting). However, the other thing that may hint at the ETM needing replacement in addition to the accelerator just failing is that you have a weird type of start-up after coming to a complete stop... kind of like the feeling of a drop in transmission or a lag in breaks releasing. These two things in addition to the accelerator failure at 70mph (mine actually failed at 65-70 while trying to pass a semi). There could be other things wrong that get the car stalling though: I think it's VERY strange that Volvo can't find the problem, coding or otherwise. Their service teams nowadays seem to lack the ability to fix things without the use of their handy-dandy diagnostic machine (which just to run it to get codes costs $85).
Last Friday on a trip, and after taking the car out of the Motel we were staying in, drove to the gas station..filled up and starting the engine again was very difficult... I even thougt I would need to look for some assistance...then it started and everything was just fine...but after 5-7 stops during my trip, I found the same problem...any ideas what mey be wrong? I do not want to be stranded¡¡¡¡¡
Just bought my 2002 XC, but noted two tires had different wear patterns, and even one of them was already in the warning signs, so I replaced all of them for Michelin. I have read about the sensitiveness of the viscous coupling of the transmission, and wonder if mi car's is damaged or gow can I know if it suffered any damage due the use of tires of different wear rates....Any suggestions? :confuse:
Our 2001 XC70 turned 'five' on July 16th. On July 20th, with only 52,000 miles, driving along on the highway, the transmission suddenly 'shifted' into 'neutral'....no response to the gas pedal, down shifting, etc. And, importantly, no idot light and no message displayed. Luckily, and I do mean very luckily, I was able to coast to a stop...turn the car off, start it up, and then pull away in what felt like 'safe mode', a very labored first gear, which revved high, strained, and shifted into second and then, bang, into neutral again. Turn off car. Start car, same thing...a very shaky and repeatedly failing 'limp home' mode that would not allow me to drive faster than 10 mph, and even then it just randomly quit. No codes, no idiot lights. Limped about half a mile and parked, needing to shift to reverse to finish parking...no reverse, and then no forward, either. Shut off car, started it, and finally a "Service Transmission Urgent" message. Towed to dealer. Dealer says 'solenoid failure, but we can't reliably tell which one or ones are involved'. Options: 1) replace solenoids for $1,900.00 or 2) replace entire transmission for $3,400. No warranty. Volvo Corporate says too bad, so sad, sucks to be you.
5 years, 52K. This car's rear shocks destroyed a set of tires (faithfully rotated), requiring new shocks and a new set of tires. The ignition key tumbler failed and had to be replaced, $450. Now a new transmission for $3,400.
No dealer will give me a decent trade in once they check the VIN# and see the service record. Volvo's corporate customer service won't step up to the plate or acknowledge the serious hazard this sort of failure creates. "Try merging onto an urban expressway or passing on a two lane only to have your car lose all power", I said to the Volvo Corporate Service rep in NJ via phone. "Yeah, that would be bad", he said, "But what do you expect us to do?"
We bought the Volvo for its reputation as a safe, reliable car. That's why our next Volvo will be a Subaru.
Apparently, we're not the only XC70 owners who have been endangered and then screwed over by Volvo Coporate and Volvo Dealers. Wonder what they'll do when it gets a family with kids killed?
Just bought a 2002 XC70 volvo wagon with 44,500 miles from a dealer. Occasionally there is a 'barking' sound from the rear whilst driving. Have a few weeks to work with dealer. Anyone knows what it is? They applied some compound to the axels before we picked it up last week, do you think that is connected to the 'bark'? Thank you in advance.
I'd return it and get your money back....seriously. You're right on the 4 year, 50K warranty bubble. You're not the original owner and if you didn't buy it from a Volvo Corporate Certified "pre-driven/used" Resale Dealer, then they will do absolutely NOTHING for you. In truth, they will find ways to tell you why they will do nothing for you and why it's you're fault.
I agree. Return it, and get yourself another car. If you really want a Volvo go new; then when these cars break (because they will, and many times) you'll be covered under warranty. I got a used 2001 with approx 50K miles a year and a half ago for a great price, but I've had to funnel over $3000 in repairs since. That is NOT the way to own an automobile of a quality that Volvo professes. Volvo is no longer much of a great quality auto producer-expensive junk! If you want a station wagon, your choices are limited to Subaru and Volkswagon for quality cars. They don't have the cargo room or the luxury for the price as the Volvo does but they sure as heck are better quality autos that don't break so often (and expensively). Either way, take it back and run away... fast!
Shivers only reading your post¡¡¡ I have been happy with my XC...and have droven if for 3,000 miles, but I'm starting to scare of the possible damages this station wagon can suffer....anyway, considering is very difficult to sell it, and that probably I will get peanuts..I will run the risk and pray not to have sich problems
Comments
I had the wheels balance, we change the tire the wheels and nothing seems to correct the problem. The dealer told me that it might be a drive shaft problem and is planning to change it in two weeks... hope it will correct the problem ...
In book i can read about it but i don't understand in german!
I bought a 2006 V70 through the overseas delivery program, and have had problems with the tire pressure warning system light coming on for no reason within the first few hundred miles of picking up the car at the factory. I took it to a dealer in Germany and they thought that there was a defective sensor on the front passenger tire. They did not have the part needed to fix the defect, so I decided to wait and take the car to my local dealer upon return to the US. Before I had a chance to do so, my wife drove the car through a car wash, and the vehicle stalled. We had it towed to the dealership, and they found a crimped wire that had shorted out the circuits for the fuel pump and the tire pressure warning light (so much for the defective sensor). It was pure coincidence that the car stalled at a car wash. It could have happened at a busy intersection or on a highway, causing a major accident. I have to say that I'm disturbed and disappointed with this happening to a Volvo. This incident has left me with less confidence that these are the safest vehicles on the road. Just wanted to pass this on in case anybody else out there is experiencing a similar problem with warning lights coming on for no apparent reason. You may want to have your car looked over for any crimped wires that could affect the fuel pump circuit.
I also noted that the buttons on the radio and below the radio (i.e. the a/c controls, child locks, etc) get very hot on long trips. It ia actually at times painful to the touch. I mentioned this to my local dealer, and they were essentially unable to reproduce the problem. They tested the car and stated that the buttons do not get any hotter than on any other V70. Does anyone in this forum have a similar experience??
Thanks, Thomas
Has anyone else had this problem? I have not read of it here, yet all the CX (after 2001) I have looked at have had many dents on their doors just under the windows.
Thanks, CK :sick:
For that matter, I recommend checking the boots for damage regularly - every time you change the oil at least. Once the boot gets damaged, the lubricating grease gets out and gunk gets in, which will lead quickly to joint failure.
Not a terribly complicated DIY job on most FWD cars (never tried it on a Volvo) - it's all mechanical with no computer stuff to mess with - but can be intimidating as a first major repair.
-- Oops - before you do any of this, check the obvious stuff, starting with Tranny fluid levels and checking for leaks.
Today, an independent mechanic took it for a 2 minute test drive, and diagnosed it as having either a bad U-Joint or a bearing going bad in the rear differential. But, because the car is still under warranty I'm trying to get Volvo to fix it.
I dropped the car off at the dealer and told them to call me when it's fixed.
This car has had more than it's share of problems in addition to the driveline noise / vibration.
It has the Bi-Xenon high intensity headlamps, and both headlamp assemblies had to be replaced (under warranty) when the high temperatures of the bulbs cooked the connectors.
The power steering reservoir had to be replaced after it cracked and leaked fluid all over the engine compartment.
I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has had similar problems.
All help will be GREATLY appreciated!
Anyone care to comment.
tx
jeffer
Check the board here with the most posts - V70 Wagon Experience - not this one.
I have never owned a volvo.
Any thoughts , suggestions, cautions for this year & model.
What kind of milage can I expect?
Any particular trouble spots?
Any help greatly appreciated!...Eric
3 wheels rebalanced, one drive shaft replaced, vibration continues and is said to be "the inherent imbalance of a 5 cylinder engine" ?? Tires anyone?
Also 2 trips to first replace mid vehicle exhaust bracket and return to do it properly - as very loud squeele starts when driving in moderate slush. Newmarket Ontario
Speed at which occurs, tires etc.?
The car is now at the dealer again, and I have a feeling that this current problem is related to the previous episode when my car stalled at a car wash.
The problem with the tire pressure warning system was finally fixed, but only after many phone calls to Volvo customer service and by involving the regional manager. Volvo actually had to call the dealer to get things done.
Needless to say at this point I'm even more frustrated than before with Volvo.
Please post if anyone else has had similar experiences. I would love to know if my vehicle is a mutant or if there is a broader problem. I LOVE my car, but seriously am considering getting rid off it and not go with Volvo again.
On a second thought, has anyone figured out what the secret to non-warping front brake rotors on the V70? I'm on my third set in 80K miles. That seems a bit obsurd.
We take good care of the car (Mobil 1, wash it regularly with frequent detailing, don't let things go before fixing them). To avoid oil coking on a hot turbo, I even raise the hood to help dissapate the heat from the engine when we come off the road after a long drive on a hot day. Now at 70K miles we want to keep it out to at least 125K.
But, here we go again. This week two lights came on in rapid succession: check engine light and check emissions. Took it into the dealer and they re-set or adjusted the emissions unit under warranty. (Sorry, can't get full details from my wife.) The very next day, the car would only run on 5 cylinders and the number 3 injector needed to be replaced. That cost $300.
This car has had a lot of service issues in its young life. The dealer is poor. A big sign in the service department says that all cars will be washed before being returned to the customer. Ours has been washed once in 6 years. I have found enough Snap On tools in the engine compartment following service work to stock a Snap On truck. Sure loaners are available. If you book the service work three weeks ahead. Who has that kind of lead time with brakes, ETM issues, etc.?
Here's the dilemma: we like the car when it is running and would like to get more use out of it without buying a new car. If we do buy a new car, to get the kind of hand holding I think we deserve, we would have to step up from "near luxury" to "luxury" and buy a Mercedes E Class wagon. The E Class Fourmatic is nowhere near the vehicle as the XC70 despite a 20K higher price.
I've had mine for few time, but does not seem it will fit for the 4x4 purposes...I think it was created to beat high snow, or mud of the kind you find in countriside roads, but not much more......enyway, I think is perfect fot that¡¡¡
Did you learn anything at the dealer? My dealer just shakes his head.
Craig
I did go in and they upgraded the software, but did not replace the ETM. Apparently they can, but they need to see the correct diagnostic codes first. To date, no codes have shown up.
Any suggestions? If I want to pay for it myself, I can get it done but I pay for it. If I wait, it will keep stalling.
I have read about the sensitiveness of the viscous coupling of the transmission, and wonder if mi car's is damaged or gow can I know if it suffered any damage due the use of tires of different wear rates....Any suggestions? :confuse:
No codes, no idiot lights. Limped about half a mile and parked, needing to shift to reverse to finish parking...no reverse, and then no forward, either. Shut off car, started it, and finally a "Service Transmission Urgent" message. Towed to dealer. Dealer says 'solenoid failure, but we can't reliably tell which one or ones are involved'. Options: 1) replace solenoids for $1,900.00 or 2) replace entire transmission for $3,400.
No warranty. Volvo Corporate says too bad, so sad, sucks to be you.
5 years, 52K. This car's rear shocks destroyed a set of tires (faithfully rotated), requiring new shocks and a new set of tires. The ignition key tumbler failed and had to be replaced, $450. Now a new transmission for $3,400.
No dealer will give me a decent trade in once they check the VIN# and see the service record. Volvo's corporate customer service won't step up to the plate or acknowledge the serious hazard this sort of failure creates. "Try merging onto an urban expressway or passing on a two lane only to have your car lose all power", I said to the Volvo Corporate Service rep in NJ via phone. "Yeah, that would be bad", he said, "But what do you expect us to do?"
We bought the Volvo for its reputation as a safe, reliable car.
That's why our next Volvo will be a Subaru.
Apparently, we're not the only XC70 owners who have been endangered and then screwed over by Volvo Coporate and Volvo Dealers. Wonder what they'll do when it gets a family with kids killed?
You're right on the 4 year, 50K warranty bubble.
You're not the original owner and if you didn't buy it from a Volvo Corporate Certified
"pre-driven/used" Resale Dealer, then they will do absolutely NOTHING for you.
In truth, they will find ways to tell you why they will do nothing for you and why
it's you're fault.
Run away. Seriously.