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3rd Generation Toyota 4Runners 1996 to 2002

jshoes51jshoes51 Member Posts: 4
I just bought a '96 4runner with 150k miles. It's a 5 speed and I noticed right off the bat that in order to start the car the clutch has to pushed in very hard to get the engine to crank. Is there an adjustment of the switch that won't allow the engine to crank unless the clutch is depressed? I know I can override the clutch-in-to-start feature with the button on the dash.
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    mine is the same way. I have wondered the same thing idly as long as I have owned it, but it has never been a problem to start so I never got beyond the idle wondering stage.

    If it were replaced, I wonder if the new one would be the same way. Certainly on other models that I have worked on with clutch safety switches like this one, there has been no adjustment for the switch.

    Wow, so we 3rd-genners now have our own thread and everything? Cool. :-P

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    bolucaboluca Member Posts: 32
    99 4Runner Limited, v6.
    The check engine light keeps coming on. I had the codes read and it came up with a PO171 which they said was 'System Too Lean Bank 1'. The parts store said to replace the oxygen sensor before the cat. I changed it and the light comes back on after about 20 miles. The truck seems to run fine. It has 77k miles. Any ideas what this could be. I don't want to keep changing parts.
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    bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    I think your parts store was too eager to sell you an O2 sensor. Some further diagnostics are in order.
    Granted, O2 sensors are the most likely component to fail, there is still other things to look at.

    Clogged/dirty injectors can create all sorts of drivability problems even though the vehicle seems to run OK.

    Have you ever had the injectors cleaned? If not, go to your local Target or auto parts store and find a product called Chevron Techron Fuel Injection Cleaner. It's the best out there! Run your tank almost empty and add the cleaner (per instructions) and fill your tank with a good premium gas; Amoco Ultimate works well. Drive till the tank is close to empty and see if this corrects the problem.

    An "open" or a "short" in the heated O2 sensor (sensor 1/bank 1) circuit can cause this code.
    Mass Air Flow meter can also generate this code along with a faulty or weak Engine Coolant Temperature sensor.

    Find someone with a decent scanner that can read the wave pattern of an O2 sensor to make sure it's operating correctly. Also check the circuit for "opens" or "shorts".
    Do the same for the Coolant and Mass Air Flow sensors.

    Good luck and hope this helped! :)
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    bolucaboluca Member Posts: 32
    Thanks, I have run 2 cans of injector cleaner through the truck. I guess I'll have to have someone trouble shoot the system.
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    duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I don't have that problem with my AT 4Runner, but I did have that problem with a MT Chevy Truck I used to have. In that case, the pressure plate on the clutch assembly was going bad. It lasted about a year, then I had to replace it and that solved the problem.
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    blackrunnerblackrunner Member Posts: 1
    ijust replaced my clutch in my 98 runner with 113,000 5 speed ive had it for two years and same problem until last night i blew up the clutch it seems as tho i dont have to push it down as hard now but now i have a chatter when im at idle or in gear and not on the gas but as soon as you touch the pedal it goes away any ideas my guess is the throw out bearing is hitting but ??????
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I can't quite follow you because you wrote one continuous line with no spaces. However, it sounds like you have had your truck two years, and recently the clutch finally wore out and you replaced it. It sounds like you either had a problem for those two years that continues now, this noise it is making, OR the noise is brand new since the clutch job - can't tell which.

    I also wonder why you don't have to push the clutch down as hard now as before - is it because you didn't use a Toyota clutch kit? And what did you repalce in the clutch job? Just the pressure plate, or other stuff too?

    Lastly, you say it chatters when you are out of gear, or "in gear and not on the gas but as soon as you touch the pedal it goes away". If you are in gear but not on the gas, you must have the clutch out, right? So you are already touching the pedal. Or did you mean the gas pedal?

    I have noticed that when mine is idling in neutral, no feet on any pedals, the transmission (specifically the clutch throw-out bearing, I suspect) is not totally silent, but I wouldn't call the sound it makes a "chatter". It is more like a slight whistle, for lack of a better word.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    bolucaboluca Member Posts: 32
    UPDATE: cleaned the MAF with contact cleaner and the CEL light has stayed off for 2 days.
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    abbylouabbylou Member Posts: 33
    Has anyone out there ever replaced their 3rd generation Limited 4Runner stock brake pads (has ABS/VSC) with the TRD pads? I have approx 55k on this vehicle and the breaks don't seem to be warped, but they just dont seem to stop as quick as they used to. We occasionally tow a 3000 lb boat and it gets kind of scary. I was just wondering what qualifies as heavy duty usage as I am thinking most of us do not take our $33K rigs offroad.
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    lkklkk Member Posts: 2
    I own a 99 4-runner w/ 5speed manual 4 wheel dr. I would like to know if i can tow my 4 runner behind my motor home without ruining the tranny or drive shafts, and differential's as long as i put the 5 speed in neutral and the transfer case in neutral. thx, ts
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    yeah, you should be able to do that with no problem, as that completely disengages the drivetrain. However, since I do not tow myself, I would also advise you look in the manual, which spells out all that towing stuff in some detail - it is like the longest section in the book!

    abbylou, mine sure isn't worth $33K (2000 SR5 V-6 4WD), but I do take it offroad. Haven't done too much serious yet, am thinking of lifting it later on. Anyway, point is when it comes to the brakes, "heavy duty" means towing like you do. I can imagine that the brakes in this thing feel a bit scary on high-speed downhill grades with 3000 pounds behind you pushing you forward. The TRDs should do one really important thing much better than the stock brakes: dispel heat. The stock rotors tend to warp a bit too easily and fade more than I would like if you stand on them repeatedly down a long fast grade (coming out of Tahoe or Yosemite on the east side is what always makes me take notice of this).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    jkuojkuo Member Posts: 1
    Anybody know how to reset check engine light on a 01 runner 4wd?
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    stevenlumstevenlum Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99' 4Runner and the brakes have been replaced 5 times, 3 times for the rotors. There are only 96,000 miles on it. It seems the brakes heat up and warps the rotors causing vibrations when I brake. Are there better rotors out there that won't warp?
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    kreuzerkreuzer Member Posts: 131
    Need help with my '99 SR5 4Runner. It's a V6/Auto. I'm trying to get my trailer lights to work and am not able to get the driver's side brake and/or turn single light to work on the trailer. Before I re-wired the trailer lights , I had the same problem with the trailer lights not working in the same way. All the lights/turn signals on my Runner work ok and when hooked up to my trailer both driver and passenger lights/turn signals work ok on the Runner. But, when I plug in the trailer, the driver's side part of the trailer doesn't work. The trailer package came with my Runner and I haven't used it until now - only owned my truck for about a year. Any suggestions on what to check and how to go about it? Thanks everyone. :)
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    seedscaseedsca Member Posts: 1
    96 4Runner v6/auto. I'd like to be able to use the car lighter and radio without the need to use my key. this would be to leave my phone charging while away and for camping and listening to music.

    Also slightly unrelated to the title. my stock alarm has a range of about thirty feet at best. Has anyone had this problem? I've already replaced the battery to no avail.
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    fadymoussallemfadymoussallem Member Posts: 1
    Hi there i have a 2000 4runner limited edition with a v6 engine i have purchased two oem keys with transpoders and two remotes they have given me the programing instructions but nothing is working anybody could help? thank you all
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    chiefjojochiefjojo Member Posts: 39
    Glad to see the popular 3rd gen 4R with it's own topic. :-) I have taken my 2002 SR5 4WD off-road several times. Once was actually pretty tough for a stock vehicle like mine It was the Brown Mtn ORV Area near Morganton, NC a couple of years ago. A lot of rutted trails and puddles of mud at first, but then you go around a bend and there are some serious rocks!!! I needed my friend to spot me and everything. It was a little nerve-racking, but I made it through without a scrape. I learned that the 3rd gens are quite capable vehicles.
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Hi there! I used to have a 2nd gen with a small lift, and it was fantastic offroad. I have not yet had a chance to do much to my 2000 (SR5 4WD manual), so I was wondering if you had lifted yours or made any other changes from stock. Mine is totally stock, and all I have done so far is some ski trips, but I would love to get back out there on the trail and off.

    I am going to put it through its paces in a couple of weeks, the first available weekend. :-)

    fadymoussallem: sorry, wish I could help, but I had mine programmed by the dealer. :-(

    If it's any consolation, they didn't charge much - maybe you might want to do the same.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    chiefjojochiefjojo Member Posts: 39
    Mine is totally stock but differs from yours in that its an auto and has the ATRAC system for off-roading, which works quite well for most situations I think (in others, a rear locker might be better). On road, I like that I have multi-mode 4WD, so I drive mostly in 2WD, but under heavy rain or snowy/icy conditions I have 4WD (center diff open) and skid (VSC)/traction control(TRAC) to assist me. I am by no means and experienced off-roader, but I'm a skilled driver in general, and in the right hands, I think the 3rd gen 4R is right up there with the most capable stock vehicles for off-roading.
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    jack9jack9 Member Posts: 1
    Go to the web site. www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4runner/tech/o2sensor. you will find some thing you wanted.

    jack
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    fmonkfmonk Member Posts: 1
    I'm hoping someone can shed some light on an issue
    we've been having with our 2001 4Runner. After
    switching off the ignition, the car refuses to
    release the ignition key. The key can be turned
    almost but not quite all the way to the left, and
    cannot be removed.

    I believe that I am being tripped up by some sort
    of safety device--although the transmission is in
    park and the dashboard indicator agrees, some sensor
    thinks the car is in gear and won't allow the
    ignition to turn all the way to the left.

    I am able to release the key by removing fuse #35
    (AM1) which controls part of the starting system.

    Is anyone familiar with this problem? Is it indeed a
    sensor, or the ignition itself, or what? And is
    it fixable by an incompetent shade tree mechanic
    (yours truly) or do I need to take it to a shop?

    Thanks in advance, and sorry if this is covering
    old ground.
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    If removing a fuse cures the problem, I have to agree with you that the problem is the mechanism that stops you from removing the key until the gearshift is in park. If it were the ignition itself, I would think that removing a fuse would make no difference.

    This is probably a sensor somewhere, rather than a hardware problem, I would guess. It is probably the kind of thing you should take to a shop, rather than trying to fix yourself.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    markamo1markamo1 Member Posts: 2
    My 00 4runner with 130k miles,has no external leaks. The problem is that I am using a ridiculous amount of oil. My oil was filled at a garage on thursday, drove about 400 miles over the weekend and on sunday was 2quarts low...

    Once in a while at start up, there is a huge puff of smoke,(big enough that people nearby would think it was the biggest clunker on the planet), that goes away in a few seconds. Never smokes while driving.

    Other than that the truck runs perfectly

    I changed the pcv valve last week and had no improvement. I was also told that I do not have sludge in the engine...

    Other than replacing the engine, what are my options?

    Please give me some hope!!!
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    that sounds a lot like worn rings. I am surprised, given the thing only has 130K miles - have you owned it since new? Did you follow proper break-in procedures?

    And that huge puff of smoke? That is where your oil is going, every time you start the thing, even at the times when it does not puff or smoke during driving.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    markamo1markamo1 Member Posts: 2
    I have only owned this car for 6 months, so I am a little cranky about it.I really don't have much info on service for the vehicle. From it's overall condition I would say that it has been cared for. Is worn ring something that can be fixed without replacing the engine? thanks
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    if it is the rings, they can do a ring job, but sometimes if there is a used engine available, that is a cheaper option.

    They can test it to see if in fact that is where the oil is going, but short of you missing a MASSIVE leak, there really aren't many other places it could be going...

    And by the way, I should add it is quite likely it was already doing this when you bought it, and in fact that's probably why they were selling it. This isn't a problem that comes on overnight. So if you bought it from, like, a family member or something, you should go give them heck!

    Did you ever check your oil before you noticed the problem last week or whatever? If not, you may have been running around almost dry at times.

    Oh yeah, and before anything else, be sure you are following proper form. The truck should be level when you check the oil, and if you have just run the engine, you should let it sit a couple of minutes so that the oil can drain back into the sump. Lastly, if you had a recent oil change, check that the drain plug is properly sealed, and that the oil filter was not improperly installed and is not defective. If either is leaking at the kind of rate you have described, there will be fresh oil all over the place near those items.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    chiefjojochiefjojo Member Posts: 39
    I know the FJC has the advantage in engine power, departure angle (30 vs 28 I think), tires (32" vs 31") and 4WD traction goodies (4R had either ATRAC or rear locker, but not both like FJC). They are both similar dimensions, but the 4R is narrower, nimbler, lighter, has 4 full doors, more storage space, and is arguably more attractive. Thoughts?
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Go for the classic! :-)

    The 3rd gen Runner is more versatile for carrying cargo, has proper carpets and insulated panels instead of hard plastic or rubber everywhere, and is much more maneuverable in tight spaces. Plus it has timeless good looks, where the FJ will be "Look at me. No, really, LOOK AT ME!" for a few years and then will be a fad past its prime.

    The only serious advantage of the FJ is its Torsen vs the center locker or ATRAC of the older Runners.

    And hey, despite the 31" vs 32" thing, didn't the Runner have better static ground clearance than the FJ does?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    chiefjojochiefjojo Member Posts: 39
    I'm not really considering the FJ, as my 02 4R is nearly paid off. I just wanted to gauge people's opinions. For me, it's tough to justify forking over another big chunk of change for the FJ, when I have a rock-solid utility vehicle already. I've never had a single issue in 51k miles. I would like to have 32s and rear locker (I know I CAN get one added on from an old 97-00 4R though) and I actually like the idea of plastic floors, as it much easier to clean! (I have the Husky liners, which work very well, but still leave some carpeted areas that can get muddy.) The 4R might give up some stats to the FJ, but I do like the classic look, visibilty, cargo room, manuverability, 4 doors, and I have the auto + multimode 4WD that I can use in 2H for normal driving, 4H for heavy rain or snow, and 4H locked (cntr diff) and 4L locked for off-road use.

    No doubt the 3rd gen 4R is a great truck. :)
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    vanhalenvanhalen Member Posts: 1
    Just recently purchased a 2000 4R - I love it!
    But I've got a problem with the electric antenna. I know what the problem is - but I want to disconnect the motor feed for now so that it remains up all the time. Does anyone know how to disconnect the power to the motor. I checked the fuse scematics - but could not find one for it.
    Thanks
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    it is a separate attachment on the back of the stereo. Unplug the wire from the radio that tells the antenna to go up and down, and it will stay in whatever position it was already in after that.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    rcobrcob Member Posts: 4
    I have a '01 4runner,won't start I'm pretty sure it is the pressure regulator, It's located behind and underneath the intake manifold. can anyone tell me if they have attemped this and how much of a @!#$% this task will be?
    OK, It'll start to turn over when the key goes from "off" to "start" but from "on" to "start" I get nothing but the starter turning. I feel the initial turning of the key is pressurizing the line(via the "new fuel pump") and from the "on" to "start" manuver there's no pressure.

    any ideas? anyone? anyone? Bueller? Bueller? :confuse:
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    mobetta22mobetta22 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 4runner SR5. My ignition key is sometimes hard to get in and out of the keyhole. Also the steering column does not lock in place after the key is removed. I had a new key made and I still have the same problems.Do i need to replace the ignition switch????Or do I need to take it to the shop???
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    almost a year of having my truck and just getting its feet wet (and no more) off the pavement, I finally got off the road and then off the trail in it yesterday for the first time. It was really a blast. I was in a BLM-run OHV recreation area, so you could pretty much go anywhere, and there were some really fantastic views if you could get high enough up on the ridge, not to mention you could find lots of solitude if you got away from the established trails.

    Didn't break anything, found the stock suspension to have as much travel as the modified offroad suspension I had installed on my older Runner. Yet despite having better travel it also had better control, so the ride was less jittery even when I was just pounding across open scrubland. I was originally intending to replace the stock suspension and lift it just as soon as the payments were done (another year), but now I am thinking I might wait a while on that.

    Another pleasant surprise was the steering. They switched from recirculating ball (truck-style) to rack and pinion (car-style) after '95, and I had heard that the more precise r-and-p was nice on the road but kicked back too much off the road and especially over the rocks. However, I found it to be more damped than expected. The only question mark in my mind is the long-term durability vs recirculating ball, where more play is built into the system so that it doesn't take quite such a beating over the rocks. My old truck was on its original steering except for the pump at 220K miles.

    All that, and it managed 21 mpg for the day, where my old truck (also a V-6 4x4 manual) would struggle to break 17 mpg in a full day of four-wheeling.

    2000 V-6 4WD, last year of the manual shift.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    chiefjojochiefjojo Member Posts: 39
    Nippononly, sounds like we are close in a lot of ways. Mine is a 2002 w/multimode + ATRAC, but I've taken it offroad and loved it. Never broke anything, and only a litle scraping on the underbody skidplates. I do sometimes wish I had the 5-spd (not avail in 01 & 02) but other times (traffic, and crawling offroad) not. Payments are done in 11 months :) . I too had thought about a lift at that point, but I'm not so sure I'm ready for that kind of investment. Where do you live?
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Toyota never made the manual available with the ATRAC, so if you had really wanted the stick you would have had to settle for the part-time 4WD I have. Which I am perfectly happy with, BTW. :-)

    I am in northern California. There's a lot of fun to be had in the mountains north of here, or the Sierra of course. I like going over on the Reno side and looking for old mines on the enormous stretches of BLM lands on that side. :shades:

    I don't commute in mine, so there's no worries there. I have always preferred the stick offroad, but I know that everyone's personal preference will be different there.

    My little trip last weekend reminded me I have to take off the running boards at the earliest opportunity! I know, I know, DUH, right? But I kinda like the look of them on there - I saw another 3rd-gen with them off and short people can see right under this truck with them off. I never noticed that effect with my old one.

    Anyway, I am thinking that if/when I get back into rock-hopping, I will definitely lift it and put on larger tires than the 32"ers that come standard. But I don't think I will be doing anything like that AT LEAST until the payments are done. For everything else, seems like factory stock suspension and tires will mostly get the job done without getting anything damaged. Toyota used to give you a heck of a lot of offroad capability right out of the box in their SUVs. Now I guess you have to buy a Tacoma TRD to get to the same level.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    cbhoocbhoo Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 4Runner with a 3.4L 6-cyl engine that has been regularly serviced by my Toyota dealer (Kings Toyota in Cincinnati) since I bought it new in 1/00. I have 78,000 miles, and it was just serviced (oil change) at the dealer 1 month before my engine failure.

    Three weeks ago I was driving on the expressway, when I accelerated to change lanes, the car began to shake and the engine lost power. The engine light came on. When I pulled off the road, the oil light came on too. The engine quickly seized up and stopped. There was oil and radiator fluid mixed together on the road under the car.

    I had it towed to the Toyota dealer (Kings Toyota in Cincinnati) where I bought it new and which did my service. I suspected a blown connecting rod. The dealer confirmed that the engine must be replaced. Incredible!! I bought this 4Runner for its advertised quality and reliability. I had a Jeep for 140k miles before this. Also had Honda, Nissan, Toyota and Chevy for 100k+ miles.

    When the problem first surfaced (which initially I thought was only a blown engine), I called the Toyota Customer Care toll free number in CA. This (or any) engine does not fail after only 78,000 miles unless it is defective or not cared for. I had all service according to the manual at the dealer. I am the original owner. Toyota Customer Care told me I must work through the dealer Customer Service Rep. So, I immediately contacted the dealer Cust. Service Rep, who then had the Toyota District Sales and Parts Manager (DSPM) (Ron) for my area look at the car. Two weeks ago the Toyota DSPM apparently inspected the car and told the dealer he would give $1000 toward a new engine -- net $8000 installed per my dealer. A used engine is only $4500 so I chose to go with the used engine and continue to try to work out with Toyota.

    This week they started to remove the old engine and I learn that I need a transmission too -- another $3200! The dealer is telling me that the connecting rod broke, was thrown through the block and into the transmission -- needs both an engine and transmission (~ $8k). I went to see it 2 days ago and met with the mechanic and service manager. When I asked what would cause this premature failure (I already knew) the mechanic said that he did not want to accuse me of anything but did I ever change the oil. It was easy for me to say yes -- the dealer (you) changed it over the years including 3 times this year in Jan, May and 30 days before the failure! He said that's about the only way he knew it could fail.

    I immediately spoke to the Customer Care rep at the dealer (Kings Toyota in Cincinnati) who told me to call the Toyota Customer Care person in CA again because the dealer could not do anything more. The Toyota Customer Care person told me that I must resolve this with the dealer or the Toyota DSPM for this area. Toyota also told me no one, not even the CEO of Toyota could overrule the decision of the DSPM -- ridiculous. The dealer told me to work through Toyota so I am getting jerked around. My neighbors and friends -- some who bought Toyotas from my dealer at my recommendation -- are shocked that Toyota will not take care of this problem.

    I need to contact the Toyota DSPM; I know his first name is Ron, but nothing else. Toyota Customer Care said they did not know who the DSPM was for my area but to contact the dealer and it could tell me. I have left messages at the dealer for this contact info but now radio silence. Anybody have any names/address/phone of a person at Toyota where they had success resolving a problem?? Any other suggestions for getting help from Toyota?
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    explain that your assistance from the DSPM so far has been inadequate. I believe the next level is the regional rep, but I forget. You may get more assistance that way.

    Do you do any fluid checking yourself, or leave it strictly up to the dealership? The reason I ask is I am wondering if you know whether the last service was perhaps done improperly. The quickie lubes at Toyota dealerships are not done by the staff that do the other maintenance and repairs. They are done by high school kids to keep the cost and time down so they can compete with Jiffy Lube and the like. Negligence on the dealer's part would be my guess, although it is certainly possible you got a bad engine. It IS an engine series well-known for its durability though, so that would be a surprise.

    edit...PS it is probably worth the price of a tow to get a second opinion, if you haven't already done that. But wait until you get the regional rep to look at it first.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    kreuzerkreuzer Member Posts: 131
    I have a question about a '99 4Runner V6 Auto. 4X4. Can anyone tell me if this sounds like a glitch or more serious problem. The other day I backed my 4Runner out the driveway and placed the truck in drive. The truck wouldn't move but the RPM gauge went up to about 2200rpm as I gave it gas acting as if it was in neutral. The day was pretty cold at 10 degrees. I didn't give the truck any time to warm up at this time and noticed the automatic choke was still running high as usual until the engine warms up. So, I sat there for about 5 minutes in park and when the auto. choke allowed the engine rpm's to relax, I placed the gear shift in drive again and everything worked great and have had no problem since. Since that day, 4 days ago, I haven't had any problems with it and the temperature has been consistently cold. I checked the trans. oil and it had the typical pink color and was at the proper level. There are no leaks under the truck as I sit it outside on a cement driveway. Any suggestions or do you think it was just a glitch? Thanks! :confuse:
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I suppose if it happened only once, and conditions have been similar in the days since, and it hasn't done it again, then it just might have been a "glitch". Thing is, transmission "glitches" rarely just happen the one time, never to reappear. I would probably get it in for a fluid flush if I were you. First thing that happens when the fluid is dirty and old is it will have trouble going into gear when the weather is really cold.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    kreuzerkreuzer Member Posts: 131
    Thanks for your reply...was hoping to hear from someone soon. Are you pretty good mechanically with autos in general? I see your name in a lot of the topics here at Edmunds. I've never had any problems what-so-ever with the tranny on this 4Runner and really think it was a glitch. No problems since that incident and the fluid was at the proper level and "looked" clean, so maybe like you said that it just needs changed. I'm not sure when the last time the fluid was changed, but I bought the truck when it had approx. 84,500mi. and it now has only 92,300mi. Thanks again for your reply!
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    These transmissions are super-solid from what I hear (and what CR says). Me, I have a manual however.

    I have had a couple of automatics in the past, which I have fixed myself, but I am by no means an expert. The older ones could begin to get out of adjustment as they aged, meaning they weren't in gear even though the shifter inside the car looked like it was in drive. These days, the light on the dash should tell you if it is in drive or not, as it is all computer-controlled now.

    Pay attention to the way it shifts for a couple of weeks. Look for hard or abrupt shifting, or further delays in going into gear when you shift it. If you can't detect any further problems, then I think you're right: it truly was a one-time glitch.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    kreuzerkreuzer Member Posts: 131
    Thanks, nippononly. I think that's good advice. Happy Holidays!
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    ejbackesejbackes Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get your transmission questions worked out? I ask because I recently purchased a '98 automatic 4Runner. I noticed a similar problem to yours during some of the cold and snowy weather we have been experiencing here in Colorado. I am going to check the transmission fluid and look into a flush and fill but I wanted to see if you had come across any more information or what your experience has been since early December.

    Thanks!
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    bumbarbumbar Member Posts: 2
    Same problem here with the alarm and the cig lighter. '96 limited. That's probably my only complaint though, 168k and runs like the day it rolled off the lot. Been offroad several times, at one point went through 4 feet of muddy water for about half a mile, and came out with not a burble or a shake. Anyone else have any suggestions on how to strengthen the alarm I would like to know.
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    jgalovinjgalovin Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 4 Runner and have been very impressed with it's capabilities off road. I have a 3 inch suspension lift with 33"x 11.5" BF Goodrich all-terrains. I removed the running boards for extra clearance and a better look. I haven't been stuck yet (knock on wood). On several occasions I have came to the rescue in snow and even mud. I even pulled a F-250 out of a ditch in the snow. Impressive for a vehicle as small as the 4 runner. My rear differential locker can come in handy now and then but have only used it twice. :)
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I previously had a '90 with a 2-inch lift and 32" tires, and of course I had long ago removed the running boards. I haven't got around to doing anything with my current Runner, but my future plans for it are similar to how I had my last truck. :-)

    My '00 doesn't have the factory locker, and I wonder if the factory part can still be ordered and installed by the dealer at this late date.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    reddevil5reddevil5 Member Posts: 1
    ">Hello, I purchased a 2002 SR5 4WD at a Toyota dealer. I just love everything about them. It had 73K on it last September when I got it. Very clean and runs amazing. I love the auto 4WD!!

    Does anyone have any good places to get parts and accessories for my truck? I believe the stock wheels on it are 15", what do you guys recommend? I'm thinking of getting 17". Also it does not have Keyless entry and I really am trying to figure out if I can get it or not. I wanted the Toyota kit so I can remotely roll down the back window. Any ideas/thoughts are much appreciated!
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    hellboundhellbound Member Posts: 2
    I have a '98 SR5 5 speed 4runner. I have done every TRD option accept the supercharger. Sadly, it does not have the RR diff lock (though if anyone has info for installing one it would be helpful) but as yet have not needed it. One of my friends has a new FJ cruiser and to be honest, I will keep my 4runner. Visibility in the FJ is bad to say the least. Entry and exit of the rear seats is not fun. Cargo room does not seem as much as the 4 runner either.
    As for performance, mine is quicker than his despite the smaller engine in the 4runner. And for off-roading, well, my Dad taught me to drive off-road and he taught me that the driver makes more difference than the vehicle. I stand by this to this day.

    There is my two cents.

    Anyone have info on adding the rr diff lock to a 98 5 speed please let me know. I know with some toyota vehicles with options like this, they actually install the hardware (such as the locker in the pumpkin itself) on all vehicles but leave the switch and wiring harness out then charge alot to install the switch and harness. They did this on a few options on the FJ.
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    chiefjojochiefjojo Member Posts: 39
    I have the same model that you have. Stock rims are 16". There's tons of posts and info on parts and accessories at http://www.yotatech.com/ also http://www.t4r.org. Most of the yotatech info is off-roading related, but t4r is pretty good too, and there is a wealth of information. Try doing a search on those sites, and I bet you'll be able to find what you want.
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