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Chevrolet Blazer Warning Lights and Gauges



  • uptownuptown Posts: 2
    by the way you say . and that part will cost me $500 and is on national backorder . but you did not say the part.. if you know the part.. please tell me.. please i am so so upset with my life and blazer
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Well thats their story cause they ran out of pumps - lots of good auto stores can order Delco with the #s I've attached:

    DTC P0410 Sec Air Injection - How to Repair and Part#s


    99-01 Blazers with the 4.3L motor and 00-03 2.2L motors have the Secondary Air Injection system and I've listed the codes, part #s, circuit description, and have to fix below.

    DTC P0410 (SES Light On) - Secondary Air Injection
    P1415 and/or P1416 for secondary air injection Bank A and B can also be set if the powertrain control module (PCM) detects a heated oxygen sensor voltage mismatch and activates an internal test to confirm.

    Circuit Description:
    This is located under the radiator (pump, electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open internally and then burn thru the rubber hose, and even melt the lower “T”, shutoff, and even pump impeller.

    Check/Replace as required:
    1. You should hear the pump on starting the Blazer and if you put your hand on it you will feel it running for about 1 minute. Part #12560095 (AC Delco 215-364) Pump, Sec Air Inj for 1999-2000 L35 (4.3L) or #12568324 (AC Delco 215-425) Pump, Sec Air Inj for 2001 L35 (4.3L) + 2000-2003 L43/LN2 (2.2L).
    The GM # is on your current pump so check it because the Dealer is very confused and/or out of these and will sub other pumps. You can remove the pump and take the #25 torx screws out and see if the impeller is clogged, rusted, melted, etc before spending $100-200 for it. Impeller should spin freely.

    2. Extend the air intake hose that ends halfway up the passenger side of the radiator about 2 more feet so it can run between the battery and coolant reservoir and push into the fender hole to keep dry. 99-00 is 5/8 heater hose and inline connector and 01-03 is 3/4 heater hose and inline connector –check size.

    3. #12558992 (AC Delco 215-638) air injection check valves 2 required – most stores sell these for $12-20 each or Dealer $33 each. If they rattle or the hoses are burned thru replace – should only flow air into the exhaust. The easiest way is to remove the two 13mm nuts that mount the check valve pipe to the exhaust manifold and use a vise to hold them – trust me here. The little exhaust gaskets should be reusable.

    4. #10217106 connect (hoses) 2 required check valves to pipes (Dealer Only $7 each). If burned thru or hard/brittle replace. Usually a good thing to plan on buying!

    5. #12555165 secondary injection shutoff valve (vacuum operated in the ¾” hose in the pump outlet to the “T” pipe under the Blazer (Dealer Only $27). Only open when the pump is on and vac applied. Also replace the 5/32” vac hose from the solenoid to valve and solenoid to intake (about 4 ft of it). Once you extend the air intake listen to the hose end and you should not hear any exhaust noise after the short initial one minute pump run – if you still do the vac diaphragm is stuck open/clogged/burned so replace. Vac is applied by an electric solenoid mounted by the pump #01997264. The center vac port goes to the intake manifold vac and the off center vac goes to the shutoff valve above. The vac should only be applied to the shutoff valve for that 1 minute as the Blazer starts then is switched off. Hose clamps will be needed here.

    6. #10105352 “T” for under Blazer where pump outlet to both pipes connect – if yours melted! One end is ¾” and two are 5/8”ends - but you can use a ¾” on all ends with a little lube. Hose clamps here too.

    7. The pumps 30 amps Maxi-fuse (large size) is under a little black cover between your battery tray and inside the passenger side fender. You may have to remove your battery to get to it. Depress the little cover retainer and remove, then pull the large fuse out to check/replace. There’s also a 10 amp small fuse to check for the electric solenoid that controls the secondary injection shutoff valve mounted by the air pump.

    8. If you need the 2 lower hoses that connect the metal pipes to the “T” going to the pump here’s the bad news – Dealer Only and includes the pipes so over $100.

    That’s all there is to it – Enjoy.
  • I'm having a problem with my 97 Jimmy its ideling rough, blowing incredible amounts of pure black smoke. I took it to a mechanic he read the code which said it was an O2 sensor, replaced it and it didn't help, pulled all my plugs and only plugs 1,3,5 were really really black while the others were "brand" new looking. Took to another mechanic (another 70 bucks for the comp test) and he tells me its misfiring on banks 1,3,5 and its the O2 sensor, then he tells me its my fuel pressure regulator, but when he tested the fuel line its between 53-55. And he proceded to tell me he "donno".... Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated thank you
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Start with new Delco cap and rotor - possible misfiring and then when were the plug wires changed - they should have looked at these on an analyzer/scope but an ohm meter will do. Then are any codes still there (SES light) and most sores like Autozone and Advance read for free so post them. Pressure test is two parts with key on engine off (start press) and it should be min 60psi and then when you shut the key off [press should stay close to that and not drop quickly which is a leaking press reg on the injection or a pump failing - then with running 53psi is OK. Then could be a clogged EGR up on the front of the engine stuck open due to carbon in the port (2 bolts hold on). Post any codes.
  • I have a 2000 chevy blazer and I wanted to know if there is anyway to test to see if my odometer is working properly. I get an oil change every 3000 miles and I seem to be reaching that in less than a month. The oil change technician asked me if I went out of town because I'm coming back so frequently. The farthest I drive is to work, and I drive a total of 200 miles a week.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    3,000 miles a month is some serious driving. It's well over twice what the average driver accumulates in that time. Have you tried driving along a course of known distance such as an interstate with mile markers?

    tidester, host
  • I have had a 99 and 2000 Savana, both with this same issue. I've researched the internet to find 1000's of complaints, but very few to GM. People need to call GM and complain! Then maybe they'd figure out there's a problem. Without data from customers, GM won't do squat for those of us that do call them. They assume there's no problem because few people call and complain. Even if you do it yourself or go to an independent mechanic, call GM customer service 800 462-8782 and tell them your issue.
  • Yes, lots of problems on these type and many run the gas down to empty every tank and then that heats the pumps up even more (if submerged they run cooler) and the gage was a bad design too and all 1 piece unit. Good luck.
  • I have a 97 Blazer that has had all kinds of wiring problems. The latest being the signal lights. I recently had to replace both front turn lights and now when you turn the indicator lever on nothing works. You can hear the relay click on and then nothing. The four-ways work fine and the brake light won't come on,on the side the turn indicator is pointed to. I've checked fuses and everything seem ok. Please help ,I'm at a loss.
  • 97 only has a known problem ignition switch as they call it which is not the key/tumbler but the igmition module assembly in the steering column that most electrical runs thru that causes most problems on this year Blazer. The multifunction switch can also fail and thats the turn signal/high beams/cruise lever and switch in the column and for turn signals there is a plastic assembly in the steering wheel that shuts them off after the turn that can break off. I would do the ign switch first and if you do a google on that topic there are several detailed how to do with pics but its a pain to take apart with the torx screws internal and external heads.
  • I found the problem, it was the signal light relay switch. I'm used to dealing with older cars where it is located in the fuse box. On the 97 Blazer it is under the dash behind the cigarette lighter. You need to take off the kick panels off under the steering wheel and the one under the lighter for access. Thanks for all the help.
  • I have a 91 GMC Jimmy S-15 and the steering colum is loose at the wheel tilt. It wiggles and moves up and down no matter what position. No one seems to know how to repair this problem or know where to find instructions on this repair. Please help.
  • Hello first thanks for reading . I have a 2002 blazer . The problem i have is that with the push button 4x4 on the dash. While in 2 hi and i would like to push the button to 4 hi it will blink a couple of times at the 4 hi spot then blink back 2 hi . so it will never go into 4 wheel high . I have replaced the push button on the console. any suggestions would be great thanks so much
  • Search the Blazer forum for the fixes - must have posted 20x already - 3 button case is NP233 and 4 button 236.
  • ajh1ajh1 Posts: 1
    Heater core needs replacing, I'm am planning on doing this myself any advise on the best way this should be done. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • i have an 1988 chevy blazer k5. i was driving down the road when my cigarette light sparked and it killed my stereo, dash lights, and dome light. i checked the fuse box under the steering wheel but none were blown. am i missing something?? someone help me please!!
  • Have to pull the dash out - have fun and buy a manual - allday job! General Search online gets some info with pics. Not a fun job.
  • dan83dan83 Posts: 3
    with my 2005 gmc jimmy i have a hard time putting fuel into it. The fuel light on all the time but when i try to refuel it is acting like it is full and wont let me put any fuel in
  • dan83dan83 Posts: 3
    hello and merry xmas. My question is why can i not put gasoline into my 2005 gmc jimmy? The gas light is on and when i try to put fuel in it acts like it is full. Any ideas? my email is
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059

    Patience! It's Christmas and many people are on holiday break.

    Enjoy the rest of it. :)

    tidester, host
  • Theres a ball in the fill neck that can hang up if someone tried to steal your gas with a hose. Also are you sure its empty cause the light is float triggered which maybe off so make sure its really not full - then if in CA or another state with those stupid fume gas pump nozzles the angle you fill at is critical or it keeps shutting off.
  • I have a 97 blazer with some light issues. The headlights like to flash sometimes. This causes people on the road to think i'm pretty much crazy. SOmetimes they don't work at all. and then sometimes they will work but my dash lights don't turn on with them. I've found that if I turn the switch slightly, it all works, but again sometimes it's flashes the headlights. Any ideas?
    Is this something worth repairing? The car is pretty old so I don't want to put too much more money or time into it. but if it's something simple, i don't mind. thank you!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Auto headlight switches fail about $50 and also check the ground wires by the headlights and lucky you have the 97 with the known defective ignition switch (module) in the column that can cause almost anything.
  • I know I'm not the only one with this problem, but still haven't seen a definite solution to this problem in this forum yet! Here's my story: Truck was running great, then it suddenly died. Motor would crank over, but not fire up. Had towed to shop, hooked up to computer and told crank sensor was bad. Changed crank sensor and truck fired up with a bad miss on all cylinders. Checked computer again and said IAC was bad. Replaced that, no difference. Then proceeded to change cap, rotor, plugs, coil, ignition module, cam sensor, cleaned,but not replaced, EGR valve(VERY little carbon build-up plus no trouble code for it). Gave up and took to dealer who said injector's might be clogged and ran a cleaner through it that uses nitrogen to "pop" them clear. NO change. They said #2 and #4 were open, but all others were clogged. Said it be $1,000 to replace injectors. Took truck home and found a place that sent me a complete reconditioned assembly w/new pressure regulator for $219. Then put that one in and still no change. Took back to shop and checked fuel pressure, it was on low end of specs so I replaced that and still no difference. Oxygen sensors appear to work correctly as they are changing readings constantly. I'm at my wits end and do not wish to give up on it as the truck is in excellent shape w/240,000 miles(but only 40,000 on new GM long block that I had installed 2 years ago). Now keep in mind, after I changed the Crank sensor and IAC motor, the only code that shows up is random/multiple cylinder misfire. Anyone Have another idea?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    My first guess would be the crank sensor they installed was defective or the specs were diff and if a GM dealer they should know this and a new crank sensor can cause a timing change. They can use their scan tool to check and set to zero again (dist has no adjustment and PCM set). Other item would be a possible crank sensor wiring/connector problem and you can order the pigtail and install - I had this happen to my 99. Those P0300 random misfires are a pain to resolve but look up P0300 on the obd-codes site and it gives you a full list of possible causes. Also GM makes a full injection replacement system for your 98up called MFI and it is cheaper and includes everything under there and if you do it rockauto site has it for under $200.

    So, was the fuel pressure ever tested? Often a lean mixture can cause the random misfire at highr rpms. Hope the dealer checked that. When I reread you said after crank sensor bad miss so again was timing checked and did they pull plug wires and reconnect drivers side #1 and #3 wrong cause they go 3-1-5 on that side of cap?? Have to ask and easy to look at. Cap is marked. Then was the dist taken out of engine and possibly reinstalled a tooth off - runs like crap then.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Could be locked up if you ran low on oil, overheated, timing chain broke or jumped, or had water in the oil from a lower intake leaking. Take the plugs out and see if it turns over and look at the plugs. Is the battery good - get it load tested. If the starter is good and the battery, look at the cables - positive to the starter and neg to ground. Then theres the ignition wire from the switch to the starter. Starter relay and fuses OK? Try a socket on the harmonic balancer main bolt and see with plugs out if you can rotate the engine internals that would be a positive test on beraings locked or not.
  • I have an 86 blazer that runs strong,easy 80 on freeway rides smooths. After i start up and warms up i get a clapping not quite knocking sound. What are my options of to look at. I have been told few things mainly lifter adjustments, distributor , or cap. Other possibilites i'm sure.
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