Taurus/Sable Brake Questions

observer22

Hi, I used autobarn dot com and ordered some Brembo brake rotors for my 2000 Taurus. I used regular, off-the-shelf brake pads and had a tiny, hole-in-the-wall garage install them for me. The Brembo brake rotors totally transformed the Taurus into a vehicle with exceptionally good overall braking performance with no brake fade.
I have also noticed that my 2000 Taurus can at times pick up speed quickly making the Brembo brake rotors upgrade mandatory.

wai

Is this brembo rotor also suitable for my 2001 Taurus station wagon? I also need upgrade of brake. I didn't notice any speed acceleration as I will not put in neutral while the car is moving as it will hurt the transmission.

breedatrad

You only changed the rotors and not the calipers?

Autobarn.com lists Brembo rotors from $47 (vented) to $80 (slotted). Are the $80 ones worth the extra $?

I've also come to find that the car has zero engine braking when in Drive (OD). You don't get any of that until you shift into "3", which is only good around town or on snowy roads when you're not traveling over about 45 MPH, anyway. Otherwise you lose a couple of miles-per-gallon.
I've also disconnected the torsion spring from the brake pedal and that's eased up on the pedal effort at SS's by maybe 25%. (The master cylinder has its own return spring that's more than adequate for returnng the brake pedal). Brake fade is still an issue though as it happens almost immediately any time you have to brake even moderately hard.

Brian

observer22

Hi, Buy the slotted Brembo brake rotors at autobarn, that is what I have. I am sure they can get Brembo brake rotors for every year of Taurus. I do not remember if the tiny independent garage used new calipers. I have had the Brembo upgrade for the past 18 months and it makes the Taurus almost fun to drive with terrific overall braking performance. Do it soon!

rpk

I replaced the two brake lines to the rear of the vehicle. Now I am having trouble bleeding the left rear wheel. The right wheel bleeds ok. Any ideas?

rpk

I replaced the two brake lines to the rear of the vehicle. Now I am having trouble bleeding the left rear wheel. I get fluid, but it doesn't squirt out. The right wheel bleeds ok. Any ideas?

nancyemery

I had a new rear caliper put on now the brake will not bleed and it does not work any idea what to do

alli3

i bought a used '93 for taurus recently.
when i purchased it the former owner informed me that it needed a new break master cylinder.
we replaced it and there is still no breaks in the car.
Any ideas to what could be wrong with it?

jasmith52

I haven't bled a Taurus myself, however on another car I was getting air into the system through the caliper bleed screw. The solution was to wrap the screw with a small amount of plumbers tape to keep the air out while the bleeding was taking place.

Also, if you don't have one already, a brake bleeder works pretty well for that situation.

aloomis

I have a 1997 Mercury Sable and I noticed when applying the brakes it is very hard to turn the wheel to the right at the same time. My husband changed the bearing assembly and pad on this wheel about a month ago, but I just noticed this. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thx

callen66

Did you bench bleed the master before putting it on and then bleed all four others after? Are the pads in good shape? Any visible leaks?

musky2

this is for a 2000 sable with 75000 miles. i had the car in the garage a while back having the abs system checked out, for which i was told every thing checked out. my problem is the abs system goes on almost all the time now when applying the brakes or if i run over a small bump when braking. the rotors and pads are in good shape. do the abs brake sensors go bad? or is it something else?

muncy

have changed front rotor and calibers on front and now brakes are sticking and getting real hot whats the problem on my 1996 ford taurus,,,,,help

robertsmeets

I have replaced rotors and pads on my wife's '99 Taurus Wagon and seem to have a problem with the outer pad on the driver side. Once the car gets up to about 25 mph the pad starts to whine. At first I had the metallic pad in there with a metal shim, it makes a horrible sound. I replaced it with a ceramic pad with a nitrile rubber coated shim, the noise is less but is still there. I have taken the brake assembly off several times and checked the pads, slides, springs, everything seems to look good but i just can't get away from that darn whining. I have the same setup in my '98 Taurus and have no problems there at all ......... any suggestions?

:confuse:

thomasoregon

Does anyone know how to disconnect the old parking brake release plastic housing from the dash? The new one looks like it is held in with a clip but you can hardly see it behind the dash much less get a pair of needle nose in there.

Thanks.

arowhead

when I removed then they came apart with some pieces off. I need to see how they go back together. I have done many brake jobs in my life. this is the worst one so far

stephkenner

I have a 2000 Sable station wagon. When I apply the brakes, the 1st few times in the morning, the pedal pulsates a few time & then I hear an electric motor going. After a few times of doing this, it goes away. We've replaced the pads on the rear & put a new caliper on. The front pads were replaced in Feb. Does anyone have anyone idea what it is or what's causing it?

:confuse:

babewk

I have a 2008 Taurus.
A while back I noticed that the brakes were a little "soft"....it had been about 2 years since last brake job, so I assumed that was the issue.

I replaced the pads and rotors.....still had the same feel.
I had my mechanic check it out.....he clamped the brake lines going to the calipers and said it held pressure....but when any one was unclamped, the brakes went soft.

Note...NO leaking fluid.

Mechanic said that ruled out the master cylinder, and told me I needed all new calipers.
I replaced all of the calipers....NO CHANGE.

When the vehicle is not running, the pedal stays firm....once the vehicle starts, the pedal will depress easy....and stop the car. If I continue to press the pedal, it will continue to depress, and eventually stop near the floor....

The brakes have been properly bled until no air-bubbles.....note the fluid is a bit darker, a light brown in color.....

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated....trying to do this myself, but I may be in too deep.

btotten35

I have a 2000 mercury sable. the drivers side disc brake is sticking. I've replaced the pads rotors, and caliper. It stick and gets very hot not to mention drags that wheel. Any ideas what this may be?