Chevrolet Aveo Vibration Problems
agrzeskowiak
Member Posts: 15
in Chevrolet
Vibration in the front end when driving at low speeds(never hit anything or ran over anything), peeling black stickers on rear passengers doors(under warranty)finally being fixed tomorrow. After waiting since June 06 when I went in and complained about them. Inside "fancy" black door handles get loose after couple months too, hubby fixed that issue was driving me nuts!! Just to let you all know that some of it IS covered under extended warranty so take it in and make an issue!!!!!!!!! If you get cranky they get scared and jump!! 
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But , The question is what is the make and size of the original tires ??
took it to the dealer and they said it was the tires i thought so to but i bought new ones and it still does the same thing does anyone out there know what I should do??angie :confuse:
In my particular case my dealership had not done alot of volume sales on the aveo so my car became a guniea pig to sort through the mess for the technician/mechanic. Keep in mind there are several things going on that prvent the dealership from sorting through your mistery problems. One is that they often rely on TSB's technical servic bulletins from GM to analyze instead of their own brains. IF there are no correct solutions in the TSB list or if your problem just has not appeared yet on the GM list then the mechanic falls upon his own resources and brains to work the issue. There enters the 2nd problem, warranty work doesnt pay as much as out of warranty work so often the problem is shuffled from a senior mechanic down to a junior with less expertise who starts a guessing game with your car and eats up your personal time letting you see if his guess was right. 3rd problem sometimes GM;s TSB list simply doesnt yet contain a solution to your problem as it has yet to appear on their radar so there is nothing to consult and finally the 4th problem ,, even if it is there on the list as a good source the technician/mechanic simply doesnt use it and proceeds with the guessing game.
Good news for you. The front end suspension TSB has been circulating for awhile now. The solution is to replace both control arms entirely. If they come back and tell you we replaced the bushings or greased this and that, shove the car back in their face and tell them to follow the instructions of their own TSB list.
Bad news for you
the strut assembly is for [non-permissible content removed] also. So you might find later that you have a faulty or leaky strut. In my case I had everything fixed, in other words all the creaking and popping that would surface on light turns , light stops and when passing over any kind of imperfection in the road was gone. That was my original issue.
However after that nightmare of 4 months of trying to get this fixed i picked up the car what i thought would be one last time only to find out that I now had in the right front end a persistent low grade roar at all speeds. Turns out according to the dealership that the right f end strut area now contained a faulty leaky strut so they replaced that and finally after 4 months and change the car was finally back to the original state of the car when i bought it. It now drives GREAT and SmOOTH. its perfect,,, almost????
just to give you some background these components and this saga started failing in the first 6 or so months after purchase. The car now has 39,400 miles on it. I called to thank the dealership for their help the other day as i am really grateful even though their system of fixing things was really trying on me. The whole time while my car has een in and out of the shop ive been driving a land rover with high gas prices so its been inconvenient to say the least.
So I called them to say thank youd never guess what they told me.
Bring your car back in sir,, we need to change your timing belt, gm has put out a TSB for faulty timing belts. They need to be changed at 30,000 miles. lol I couldnt believe it. Well at least they were honest. GM pays for the timimg belt but they dont cover the labor for their own faulty timing belt. Isnt that weird? Its weird beccause as many of you know this engine is an interference engine so if the timing belt brakes you most likely will have to replace the head of the engine. GM would have to pick the bill up on that situation due to the power train warranty so why they would not create an incentive to have customers bring in their car and have the timing belt replaced and have all costs covered is beyond me. Replacing a head is 100 times more expensive than a lousy timing belt.
Here is the real kicker, the dealership gave me the feeling that the timing belt will have to be replaced every 30,000 miles here on out. I asked myself arent they replacing the belt with a higher quality belt, what is causing them to break in the first place? etc etc LOL geez the last car I had that had to have the timing belt replaced each 30,000 miles was in the 1970's its called a FIAT.
Anyways that is some of my story i hope all benefit from this, print this post out and take it to your dealership if it helps you get your car fixed. Also regarding your oem tires they were not all that great and yes replacing them helps with how the car feels, sounds and drives. But replacing the tires in most cases is only a band-aid over the real issues. Dont let em fool you or get you out of your warranty period. I had to be very agressive and persistent to get my car back in its original shape.
Cheers
John
velvetdawn68@yahoo.com
Joe
take that car in don't waste time and let the miles go up get it checked over and over until it drive them crazy not you. go in the problem can get worst.
dotdijak
The best way to inspect these bushings is to jack the car up. When the suspension is fully extended it will give you a better view. Originally I didn't see the big cracks in the rubber. With the wheel at the bottom of it's suspension travel, the rubber joint is fully flexed. That's where it will show it's condition. If I knew how to post a photo here I would.
I ordered new control arms from rockauto dot com. Both control arms with shipping included was around $140. I'll install them myself within a few days and be able to say whether or not it fixed the problem.
The best way to inspect these bushings is to jack the car up. When the suspension is fully extended it will give you a better view. Originally I didn't see the big cracks in the rubber. With the wheel at the bottom of it's suspension travel, the rubber joint is fully flexed. That's where it will show it's condition. If I knew how to post a photo here I would.
I ordered new control arms from rockauto dot com. Both control arms with shipping included was around $140. I'll install them myself within a few days and be able to say whether or not it fixed the problem.
I just posted photos at Flickr dot com. You don't need to register to view them. Just use these exact search terms on the opening page.
Aveo Lower Control Arm Bushing #1
Aveo Lower Control Arm Bushing #2
Aveo Lower Control Arm Bushing #3
Photo #3 gives you the best close up.
By the way, here's something "off topic". Changing the timing belt on the Aveo was much easier than other cars I've done. There was lots of room to work, and the main serpentine belt (for the alternator and such) has a spring loaded adjuster so it comes off in about 30 seconds. It still no picnic, but compared to other cars it's easier.
Use the floor jack to put a light pressure under the ball joint to keep them from spinning in their socket while you tighten them with the wrench.
Now that I've said all of that...it didn't fix the problem on my car. I've changed almost everything. Control arms, tires, rims, rotors, brake pads, etc. My tie rod ends are good but I'll be replacing them over the weekend just for the sake of changing them.
Good luck.
Regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Mark
I bought my car brand new. I am lucky if I get 400km/per tank of gas.
Ever since I got it when I have people in the back seat it makes noise. But of course when I took it in multiple times to the dealer while still under warranty it wouldnt make the noise.
Does anyone elses backlights where the shifter is get really hot to the touch when you have them on? Now i just keep mine on low.
I have had to have my thermostat changed twice. My hatchback doesnt open anymore due to something inside with the handle (due to poor design inside door, rod slipped out of something)
I think something to do with shocks is going or already gone.
This past August my rear brakes seized and I couldnt drive my car. Had to have it towed.
Just had my car in because my caliper seized on my rotor and my car was shaking because of it.
Car is making a noise sometimes and I thought it was a belt so my mechanic changed my fan belt but didnt stop the noise. Tried getting my mechanic to listen for it when he had my car last time but it didnt make it for him.
I have never had to replace any of my back lights but have had to replace my headlights already, 3 times I think.
Spring or something broke in my shifter so I have to make sure the shifter is pushed all the way over in park to be able to get my key out. But since it has been so long that I am used to doing so.
My rear windshield washer fluid doesnt work but I think the line is just clogged.
It is decent running though. Doesnt make a lot of noise (atleast not yet) sometimes slow to go up hills. Not sure what the "Hold" button is really for but I do use it often. My mechanic tells me I should consider getting my timing belt changed soon, that it might be the cause of the noise I hear sometimes. Of course with that is the water pump as well. :confuse: