Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Pontiac Grand Prix Brakes



  • chats1chats1 Posts: 158
    thank you very much for your response re the brakes. My rotors seem smooth. My fingernail does not go into them. I made sure last night. Just got that black dust on my finger. Can I ask you where the pads are located? I can fit under the car. Can I look under the car and seem them or does the car have to be on a lift? Also, I had read about the squealing sound if the pads are going in the manual. I have no squealing noise. I have no noises. I am always listening for noises. OnStar sends me a monthly bulletin, which I really did not want, but they sent it anyway telling me that the engine is fine, anti-lock brake system, fine, emissions, fine, etc. thanks for your help. chats1
  • rmozolrmozol Posts: 124
    You can see the backs of the pads from the outside. They're sort of kidney shaped, with one on the inside of the rotor, and one out. If you look at the red caliper itself, you'll see two cutouts. It sort of looks like a bridge with two "channels" under it. The two channel-looking things are where you can see the back of the outer pad; if it's black, it's the pads, if red, the caliper. It will be rubberized feeling on the back of the pad too. This is to prevent the high frequency vibrations we hear as squealing. As far as the wear indicator, it's only on the inner factory pad since these move the most. You'd have to disassemble the caliper to see it though, unless you crawl under the car and look with a strong light. It's basically a piece of metal that scrapes on the rotor itself causing the noise; metal to metal scraping. It's only on one end of the inner pad too. Obviously, you're aware of it now, so you can do a detailed inspection at regular intervals like oil changing, tire pressure check, etc. I hope I didn't insult you with the basic explanation either.
  • chats1chats1 Posts: 158
    Thanks very much. I appreciate your help. You did not insult me at all. Thanks. Chats1
  • hi my name is mike,i have a 01 gtp special edition coupe,i am also a bmw tech,i honestly can tell you dont listen to alot you may read ,first off,cols air intake is ok ,but if you go thru alittle rain water ,it will be ingested into the engine,,you can not compress water ,so damage will occur,its like jumping off a diving board in to a pool of water and landing on your stomach,ooouuucchhhh,cols air intake is for the track,no where else ,unless you have money to burn ,on the oem pontiac air intake box,the air filter sits high,with drains at the bottom to let the water out before it does damage,i see it in bmws all the time with dinan set ups on bmw m5s and m3s and on the 540 smart buying the car ,stupid for the cold air intake,they should have bought a ford and trashed something that was gargabe from the start
  • etcbetcb Posts: 42
    Same here. I own a 2005 GXP and I'm on my second break job at 40K. Looks like this time my rotors are shot. Not to mention the special tires for the GXP will set you back a GRAND! The rear breaks are not affected. GM wonders why Toyota sells more cars? duh...
  • rmozolrmozol Posts: 124
    I've been noticing lately that I'm getting a LOT of rusty specs in the paint on my white 2006 GXP. They've been telling me that it's road grit, but I'm beginning to wonder now. I think that it might be front rotor specs that are hot, and stick to the paint. It's all along the rocker panels, and the rear bumper. there's hundreds of these on both sides too. I went to the EBC Red pads, that are non-metallic too; for less brake dust. I only have 7K on this thing too!
  • rmozolrmozol Posts: 124
    Who makes ceramic pads for GXPs? I don't want all the brake dust either. Thanks.
  • ocjohnocjohn Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Grand Prix with 4 wheel disk brakes I purchased new. It has the SE & LE package + a special package that gave it different suspension (lowered), body trim, wide 150 mph tires, special engine & drive train components.
    The brakes have been bad since I purchased the vehicle.
    I noticed this after taking delivery and returned to the Pontiac service with my problem. I was told there was nothing wrong with the brakes.
    I again returned and complained the brakes do not stop the car in an emergency stop but are adequate when normal stops are required.
    I explained, I have more stopping power at a medium pedal, than when I step hard on the brakes. It's as if I'm easing off and using less pressure for a more gentle stop when I apply them hard.
    This time they replaced the brake pads, I believe this was at around 6000-8000 miles. This, however, did not correct the problem.
    I then had premium pads & shoes installed elsewhere, this did not correct the problem either.
    I again went to the dealer for a repair solution but my car was returned untouched with the explanation I voided the warranty by having the brakes worked on elsewhere.
    Now I was on my own!
    I replaced the master cylinder for a few hundred dollars, again no improvement.
    Another shop said it was the power booster and $600+ later I still had bad brakes.
    I then replaced the rotors on all wheels and pads again, no improvement.
    I replaced the calipers, no improvement.
    Then I had installed race car pads and had vented rotors but still no improvement.

    I then suspected the anti-lock brake unit. I wanted to replace it but was told it works as the factory built it.
    I suggested a different unit but was told it could not be done due to violation of some law regarding brake mods and I could be sued if I had a wreck because I modified it, plus my insurance company would then have reason to refuse the claim.

    This car will run faster than I want to drive it even if I had normal brakes, thus the 150 mph tires it came with, but it won't stop.

    I have driven it less than 52,000 miles in 15 years for this reason.

    Does anyone have any suggestions? I have spent thousands of dollars with no results.

    Thanks for your time.
  • rmozolrmozol Posts: 124
    They should have a procedure under the Lemon Law. As long as you complained within a year?, the rest doesn't matter. After three tries, they should replace the car too. Look in the onwer's manual, and it lists it there. I'm leaning towards the same thing on my 2006 GXP now. The rotors are getting scored and grooved, after only 8K miles! What speed rating are your tires? There will be a V, Z, W, etc.
  • chats1chats1 Posts: 158
    I have 23,000 miles on my 2006 GXP and now need front brake pads. Cost $279 plus labor. The dealer has to order them so they will be installed tomorrow, 4/10/07. I never had to replace the brakes on any of my previous 3 GTP's. The technician said they were down to 3 mm. Most of my driving is in stop and go highway driving also!!! At least I have gotten all of my oil changes for free so that sort of makes up for the $279, but I have no idea how much the labor will be. Will know tomorrow. chats1
  • billytombillytom Posts: 1
    Did you ever find an answer? I have a 2000 GT thats doing the same thing.
  • jensey7jensey7 Posts: 1
    My 2005 grand prix just began vibrating while I'm breaking. It's not everytime...just when I'm slowing down from about 35-45 mph to come to a red light or something like that. My cousin has the same car and hers is doing the same thing. Our tires are new, our brakes and roters appear to be in good shape, so we're stumped. I wondered if anyone out there has had a similar problem.
  • pawlpawl Posts: 3
    Another VERY common problem is the large wire harness on left (drivers side) front. The harness rubs the Air Conditioner Accumulator mounted below the air cleaner box. After it rubs enough, it will start to cause "Ghost" ABS problems as the ABS wire shorts to the accumulator. It WILL not set codes (usually). It WILL actuate the ABS system for VERY short periods of time (milliseconds).
  • kcsapkcsap Posts: 1
    Hey all, just signed up to post this and hopefully get some feedback. My wifes cars an '03 Grand Prix GT it has 56000km, we put all new brakes on the car at 48000km and new tires at 52000, now a person would think that these parts would last longer thn roughly 50000km, but hey I'm not a GM engineer... Now I get in the car today and the front rotors are crap already, 8000km in less than one year and they are crap again!!! 8000km, no parts can be that poor, unless they were a bad batch. The tires?? goodyear eagle LS from the factory and they had 5mm of tread left at 56000
    Talking with my auto parts dealer, he tells we that these cars need to have the rims torqued on or they become unbalanced and warp the rotors as u brake, so I always make sure every time the wheels are off that I torque the nuts to 110, so what gives??? 8000km and the rotors are warped!!!???? give me a break, my in laws have the same car, year and everything and have had the same problems with the brakes and tires.

    Does anyone have any suggestions or has this happenned to them, I love this car its great to look at but If I have to replace the brakes yearly its not worth it!! Please let me know back here or you can email me at thanks

    -Kris, Ontario Canada
  • Wow, I have a 2001 grand prix and only once have i changed the brake pads. at 94k miles.bought at 34k miles with new pads from dealer. never had bad rotors or a vibe.whats with all these problems? any one have an answer to the vibes and bad brakes?
  • i am installing a new parking brake cable from the pedal to the rear wheel assemblies. at the conncetor where the main cable connects the left and right wheels is a connector. the old swedge is stuck in the connector, how do i get it out? :confuse:
  • All,
    Took my 07 Base Grand Prix to the dealer, a scraping sound in the rear when I lightly apply the brakes. They look at the brakes and said fronts and rears are fine (only 7500 miles). I later figured that it only happens when the car is cold. Also only with partial application of the brakes. Anybody got any ideas? When the car is warm and been drive no sound is made.

  • dsjrdsjr Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 GP. On occasion when braking (it seems like it happens the most when turning)it feels like the anti-locks are kicking on. It does it while braking under normal conditions. Anybody know what the problem may be? Thanks.
  • I've had to replace pads and resurface rotors 3 times in 1-1/2 years due to excessive wear and vibration in the steering when braking. The ABS lights have never come on. The first time Sears said it was due to a bad caliper. I replaced that along with pads, a rotor resurface and a system flush. Worked fine for about six months when the vibration started again. This time the dealer said the same caliper was bad and needed replacement. Ok, it did it again and all was well until about 90 days later when it started all over again. Pads down to zero with uneven wear, etc. I took it to a brake shop who said that it's probably the proportional valve in the ABS but , of course they sent me to the dealer. The dealer ran tests and said that no error codes come up. What's going on?

    Second, the engine runs hot when on a climb and is variable, I've had it to the dealer who changed sensors, rodded the radiator, flushed the system, changed the thermostat and says there are no error codes and no co-mingling of fluids so not to worry! This just ain't right! I know that something is wrong. Any ideas?
  • I have just been informed by my dealership that I'll be needing front brakes next oil change. I have just turned 26,000 km or just over 16,000 miles. I was asked if I consider myself to be hard on brakes. My answer is no in that I've never experienced any abnormal brake wear in any of the other vehicles I've had. They told me to make sure I listen for any netal on metal sound before my next schedule oil change at the 30,000 k mark. My GXP is a 2006 model and another point was my dealership didn't stoke thes pads either. I'm wondering if this is a manufacturer's issue.
  • :sick: I've just been informed by ny Dealer that I will need new front brakes next oil change. I've just turned 26000 km or just over 16,000 miles. I was asked if I consider myself hard on brakes and I have to say I've never had this problem with any other vehicle I've owned. It sounds like I'm not the only one with this problem. This is just another way of generating more money for non warranty issues!
  • im a caterpillar mech, fairly experienced in older vehicles. my g/f has a 2006 gxp with w/ 22,000 miles and the front pads are gone with 1 metal/metal. to me this is quite excessive wear. she isnt as hard on them as i would be.
    are there any fairly simple fixes to this this with aftermarket parts. i would expect a little better wear than this. there isnt any issues with the performance of the brakes just the excessive wear. doesnt sound like pontiac gives a [non-permissible content removed] about the issue.
    any help would be appriciated, thank you.


    and the brake dust dust on the wheels is terrible, impossible to keep them clean.
  • I have one a mechanic and i still couldnt figure it out. well i finally figured it out and it was the plug on the front passenger brake. on mine the wires broke from where the wheels turn so broke right where it plugs in on the back of the rotor. i just soldered the wires back together. see if that waht it is.
  • I have a Grand Prix 04 that has the ABS lite and Traction Control light on and also the brake light on the back drives side keeps going out. Please help!!

  • holeshotholeshot Posts: 3
    Hello I am also in germany Ramstein with a 2003 grand prix gt. I am having front end problems with the wheel hubs they will go around 80,000 miles. You can order parts from autozone with free shipping this helps us over here and also there is suppose to be a gm dealer in homburg or hamburg that is near here and you can get your car serviced or get warranty work done there.
  • reginahreginah Posts: 3
    I just had to have hub bearing assembly, alignment, brake pads(front and back) and other issues with the engine light. The mechanic that replaced the temp sensor told me that there is a big list of call backs on different models of the Grand Prix. Evidently GM knows about all these problems and have no intention of contacting the owners to make the corrections. I have an 2000 GP GTP and have never had so many problems with a car. I am a light driver, so all of the Grand Prixs are lemons. The dealerships are either incompetent to diagnose the problems or they are just milking the owners of these cars of every penny that they can.
  • did you ever figure out what was making that happen, if so what did it involve and how much did it cost, i have an 04 GP and i am experiencing the same thing
  • Yes I had the wheel bearing replaced on the drivers side and then about a month after the light was on. Went to have the other one replaced and found out that the 1st one ABS wires had been ripped out of the bearing. This model the ABS sensor is in the bearing assembly. I ended up with both bearings being replaced (one under warranty) and complete brake job for total price of $730. Wheel bearings can be done at home and then front end alignment by a shop. You can find the parts on the net for cheaper than your local parts house. I also have a bad axel that was found during all of this so keep that in mind. Some parts can be found at
  • I have 35000 miles on my '06 GXP and have just been informed it will need its third set of brakes and rotors. Something is dreadfully wrong with the design of this brake system. New rotors and brakes were installed by the dealer in June of '07 and I already need another set with just city driving, not racing? I think the system needs to be recalled by GM.
  • chats1chats1 Posts: 158
    Hi! At 27,000 miles I had to have my front brake pads replaced and the rotors cut on my 2006 GXP. I am by no means hard on brakes. I have had three GTP's and never replaced the brakes. And at around 28,000 miles I was told that my tie rods were loose and had to be replaced and needed two new rear tires because they were cupping. I also had to have the steering wheel rack replaced because the whinning noise was driving me crazy. I go back to the dealer in about a month for an oil change and can't wait to see what they come up with now. chats1
Sign In or Register to comment.