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Comments
I've suffered too long with "That's a nice car", "I heard it's really reliable" comments.
So far I've managed to "bling" up the exterior (with the help of e-bay):
-Get a Chrome Grill for my Phantom Grey car (Wow, that looks so good)
-Get Chrome Covers for the outside mirrors that have turn signal LED lights on them. (Wow, more chrome)
-Get Chrome frams for the tail-lights (Wow, even more chrome)
-I saw some chrome door handle covers, but I think I have enough chrome for now.
Fog Lights:
-I managed to get a set from e-bay and am grateful to Canoe2 for his detailed instructions on the install, since my car is also a Canadian model (which was built in Japan BTW).
Stereo:
I got Best Buy to replace the stereo with a JVC unit that plays WMA & MP3's.
The dash kit they use looks very OEM, with a small cubby above the DIN unit for CD's and the like. It even looks good with the Carbon Fiber Dash Board Kit I got for the interior. They also put in a 12" Pioneer Sub & Box and Pyle Amp.
Surprisingly, the stock speakers (Non JBL) sound very good, with only a bit more frequency response on the high end needed. I'm looking into getting a set of add on tweeters firing into the windshield on both dash corners to complete the set up.
With this simple but effective sub-woofer I get noticed because it's not the anti-social type of noise many Camry's make !
Search on e-bay, I got most of my Camry stuff from them with some really good results.
Good Luck,
Has anyone replaced the lip spoiler that goes on the Solora? I just purchased a SLE and was wondering if they bolt on so I could put a different one on?
Thanks
I went to the auto store and found a Meguiars product called Clean and Wax. It appeared to bejust what I wanted: Safe for clearcoat, Removes swirls, removes dirt, waxes to a gloss shine, may be applied to the entire car at one time - no need for a section at a time, just cover the car and wipe off with a terry towel. Sounded simple enough.
Well I worked the back end of my car first. I started an hour before dusk so I was in the shade and the car cool. I applied the wax and had to rub hard but it appeared to remove the dirt. I ONLY applied it a section at a time even though it said you could coat the whole vehicle at one time. I did the trunk and rear qaurter up to the rear doors. After wiping on and 'cleaning' I applied another coat and wiped off with a clean rag. Up close it looked shiny and clean. At one point I stepped back and almost fainted. The entire rear of the looks like it is covered in some sort of dull haze--in the paint---ie you can not wipe it off, even with a bare finger! From a distance it looks shiny but as you approach at a certain angle it looks like it has been coated with something that does not rub off. Night has fallen and it has started to rain. The water appears to bead. I am afraid of what I may find in the morning! There is a tech number on the wax bottle for whatever good it will do.
Does anyone have any experience in this area? I am really scared I will not be able to get this junk off? Should I use my trusty old NuFinish over it? It just seams as though there is a coating of something on my car that should come off first!
HELP PLEASE!
Thanks!
Meguiar's cleaner wax should be okay. I used to use it all the time before I got lazy. Now I use Eagle 1's Wax-As-You-Dry. It's great in that you spray it on while the car's damp after washing and then just dry the car with a chamois (fake chamois in my case) or soft towel. The big advantage is you can do this every time you wash the car, because it's so easy.
To take off the wax, you could try hand dishwashing detergent and water (like Ivory, Joy, Dawn, etc.) It won't hurt the finish, but should remove the wax.
The white paint, like all of Toyota's colors, is clearcoated.
Anyway, the rain appeared to 'wash off' the haze. I recoated with NuFinish and it is ok. Wheeew!
I guess I'll use the rest of the Meguiars to clean the rest of the car and then try the Eagle stuff you use from now on. Thanks!
Go to www.griotsgarage.com and check out their products.
Deke
my car. I have my 96 Camry almost 10 years. It still looks and drives like new.
Wife bought a 05 Camry LE last month. Drove the new car few times, I still prefer
my 96. Have a great weekend.
I'd never actually order a car with any of the emblem finishes. How many gold emblems do you see with the chrome peeking through?
Deke
I guess I am talking about 2 things:
1)Cleaning the grime off the outside (includes dirt, wax, oil overspray (the dealer lubes all weatherstripping to keep the rattles and pops down on my 02 Camry--I AM SERIOUS), sap, rain marks etc.
2) The inside. You would think this would be easier but I get a film on my wondows. The dealer said this is normal for a newer car.
So what product do I use or what concoction do I mix up? What kind of towell / cloth should I wipe with? Is it best to wipe in circles, vertically, horizontally etc. Whats the secret! Thanks!
Vinyl vapor. Nothing you can do about it other than clean them periodically. Windex works ok but you have to wipe twice, once to get it off and again with a second dry towel to remove that last streaks.
Ken
Simple and easy, you will be surprised. Sure you can go ahead and use windex to clean it first but the newspaper, works like magic. Try it
I will try newspaper next time. I would think the ink would smear off the paper onto the glass....
Do not allow the water to dry on its own, or you will get water spots. Dry thoroughly with a clean soft towel. Do one section at a time. It helps to see what you are doing if the window is facing the sun.
On the outside, I use regular car wash soap and a sponge, rinse with a hose, get the excess water off with a good squeegee, and then dry off the remainder with a fake chamois (the Absorber in my case).
http://camry.toyota.com.au/TWR/vehicle/content/0,4216,721_204,00.html
Thanks.
Hope this helps.
Ken
Before applying any more wax or other agents to the surface of your paint, you need to get the car's surface cleaner, and prepared to receive the wax or polish you will apply. A high acid based car wash is most often used. (And this is not done regularly, but only when the car's old wax needs to be striped off) I use Dawn Liquid Detergent, the blue stuff. Yikes! you say! I know. but it gets the surface clean, and I don't use it but once every year to strip off old wax and polish.
Also, get a hold of what is known as a clay-bar. This soft putty like bar is used in conjunction with that washing to remove grime and rough spots from the paint surface. Spending the extra time to "clay" your car's paint will leave a clean smooth surface ready to receive the next polish or wax.
I happen not to use wax anymore, although I've tried many of them. The polish I use leaves my car sparkling like new. And yes, it has that new car smoothness. Not because of the polish, but because the surface has been prepared and cleaned (clayed) before I applied the polish. The extra work is worth the effort, and you won't have do it every time. Once a year is probably it. I have 4 more months to go before my year is up, but the car is still lookng great with regular normal washes. (No, I don't use the Dawn detergent every week!)
I hope this helps.
A fanatic about car polish and appearance,
Mark53
Strip off that old, dirty stuff, yes, even the newly applied stuff. Use a claybar to remove the 'rough' surface dirt. If at this point the surface still looks 'dirty' you have deeper problems that only an abrasive cleaner can resolve. Here, it is a toss up as to whether or not a professional may be easier. However, there are products out there that can remove this dirty look and obtain a smooth, clean, clear surface. It takes either a lot of elbow grease or a good random orbiter (along with some skills).
Only after the surface is prepared and LOOKS good, should the final step of applying the polish/wax of your choice be considered. Notice, each objective required a separate, different approach to achieve. Not a single, all in one product. At this stage your car's surface should look absolutely GREAT. It just doesn't have the deep gloss that is associated with a great polish or wax. It is clean and smooth, ready to drink up that protecting layer of the last step.
Yes, it might take 6 hours to get the job done right, but the results will be worth it.
The good part is that once you've done all of that, maintaining a great looking car is MUCH easier. Simple washing (no not with Dawn), light wax or gloss enhancing is pretty much all that may be required.
I hope this helps.
The big problem is getting a quality paint job on the replacement cover. If the cover is not prepped properly, the paint will start peeling off in a relatively short time. So ask around about quality body shops, and try to obtain a guarantee on the paint job for as long as possible.
But depending on how bad the crack is, you may want to leave it, as young males do tend to get in crashes more frequently.
Another alternative, if you must replace the cover, is to try to locate one at a salvage yard in good condition and in the proper color. Any 1997-99 Camry front cover will work. Then you won't have to paint it, and the cost of the used part would be much less. Even if you had to get one of a different color, the total cost still would be less, but my earlier caveats about painting would have to be taken into account.
about 10 months ago . i understood i was taking a chance so i tested it . my wife and i went to kentucky to truck driving school . it was a 6 and a half hour drive
that to me was the test drive that made us want to breath a little bit of new life
into that old girl . what i need is to find out what i can use as in body kits
and what will enter change as in body kit wise and performance :confuse:
i new at metric cars this will be my first
I wanna make my 96 Camry painted to a dark blue color and I was wondering how much this could cost?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-02-03-04-05-Camry-Mirror-LED-Cover-LE-SE-V6-XLE_W0QQ- cmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33649QQitemZ7991634811QQrdZ1
Tks
1. I found the tail light, but how to pull the bulb? Should I simply pull it out? It looks like the bulb is quite tight.
2. I removed the plastic pin to hold the front turn signal housing, according to the instrution manual, I should rotate it toward me in order to reach the signal bulb. However, it looks hard to rotate it. I just don't want to move it so hard to cause it broken.
Can anybody share their experience on these? Many thanks!