Toyota Avalon Basic Maintenance Questions

mem4

Traveled for 10-15 miles to warm the engine before draining, put up on ramps at the bottom of my driveway so car ended up more or less level, let the oil drain until only a couple of drops were coming out, removed the filter and installed new element. Filled with oil, ran the engine for 30 seconds, shut down and checked for leaks, let sit for 5-10 minutes then checked the dipstick. Looked a little high so I figured it was not level enough. Checked a couple of times later in the day when the car was parked in different places, each time the level was above the upper mark. I decided to take out some oil through the dipstick tube until at the upper mark. I'll watch it and when the oil gets a little darker (very hard to read now because it's almost totally clear) I may have to add some oil.
I was wondering (being paranoid) if I did something wrong with the filter change that prevented the oil from getting into the filter but I can't think what I could have done wrong.

abfisch

mem4:

While I am not absolutely sure, I did change the oil in my 02 Avalon last week. Usually only during the winter time, I put in synthetic 0W-30, for reasons we are on the Canadian border and just east of one of the Great Lakes.

Although I am not familar too much with the new engine, it could be one of three things.

1. What does the manual say about oil/filter change volume? Sometime this is less than the entire capacity of the system.
2. I know on my older Avalon, the oil drain plug is faced oblique to the surface of the tank, I believe. If yours is the same, then putting it perfectly level would leave a little residual in the bottom of the pan.
3. Did you let it drain for an appropriate amount of time?? I usually walk away from the vehicle for 5 minutes or so and let it drain.

Check and try these. Hopefully, they put the oil filter in a better place than right under the manifold as they did in the older models.

abfisch

n0v8or

You are obviously experienced and did everything "by the book". The only possibilities I can envision are a miscalibrated dipstick or the front end of the oil pan was not higher than the rear. It can be hard to judge "levelness" when standing in a slope. You lose your frame of reference.

Unless you stuffed an old sock in the center support tube, I also can see no possibility that your oil filter is not filling. In your Avalon, the oil filter is in series with the engine, so a restricted filter means less oil flow. The the oil filter was not passing any oil through it, you would hears lots of engine noises.

In the "old days", some cars had bypass valves that routed oil around the filter if it became clogged. Your engine has a bypass valve built into the oil pump to regulate pressure. It returns the oil directly back to the pan when oil pressure becomes too high.

mem4

Thanks for all the replies and advice. In thinking about it, I may have had the car too level when draining the pan. The plug is not directly out the bottom but does face back and at a slight angle. Next time I will have the front of the car higher than the back to see if this makes a difference. I may have left 8-10 ounces in the pan which would explain the slight overfill putting in 6.4 quarts.

I'm still not convinced the removal of the center filter drain and using the plastic adapter is worth the effort. I still got oil spilling out around the edges of the filter housing when I took it off. Next time I'm thinking of skipping the whole remove the center plug, stick in the plastic spigot, drain the filter thing and just spin off the whole filter housing and let it drain into the pan. My daughters Corolla has it's filter in a similar orientation and the oil just comes out around the sides when you unscrew it. Not a big deal if you are expecting it.

n0v8or

Your line of thinking regarding the filter cannister drain step mirrors mine exactly. I've been wondering how much greater the spillage would be if I skipped the first step. There is certainly one way to find out.

This approach would also eliminate changing the cap sealing ring ("O" ring), which seems to be redundant anyway, as oil has to leak by the drain valve first to be present in the cap cavity.

mem4

I did notice about a teaspoon of oil came out when I removed the center cap, may have slowly leaked by the drain valve in the filter assembly. Even if a small amount of oil leaks by the drain valve it will be trapped by the center cap and O ring, I don't think it would matter if it was left in there oil change after oil change. If the center cavity eventually filled up with oil it has no place to go.

abfisch

I thought so. Since I just changed it myself, that is what I would have checked per my last post. The plug is oblique to the pan, not 90 degrees so if you have the car level, ..... Just put it up on the ramps next time, drain it, walk away for 5 min., then readjust, do the filter let that drain and filler up. Sounds like you were a little too good.

abfisch

nosretep

The other three plugs are under the plenum on the back side of the engine. If you look carefully under the left side of the plenum (while viewing the engine from the front of the car), you'll be able to see the connector plugged on to the top of one of the spark plug assemblies. I haven't changed mine yet, but I don't believe I'll be able to get the connector off without breaking something or get enough clearance to remove the tubes, so the plenum will need to come off. This isn't near as simple as taking off the engine cover that shysnow mentioned.

nosretep

You're only draining the transmission fluid that's in the pan, not what's in the torque converter and tubes, which is another 3 or more quarts. Do you only change half your motor oil with each oil change? I didn't think so! Mixing 50% new fluid with 50% dirty fluid isn't cheap insureance. Have the transmission filter changed and the fluid flushed every 30K - 60K miles and you should be fine.

abfisch

Nosretep:

I somewhat, respectfully disagree regarding your post #101. Rather said, a flush is well, not really a flush. And some, don't recommend it. Rather, they recommend draining the fluid, removing the pain, changing the filter inside(which is a little metal filter, cleaning the magnets off, and replacing it back. Lastly, per the Service manual specs., and I am going to go back to that literature and look it up this weekend, I believe just draining the tranny fluid leaves about 1 to 1.5 quarts remaining. I don't think I read 50/50 but I will check.

So changing the fluid, or diluting it, is better than not doing anything, but a service of changing the filter, cleaning the magnets, is certainly better, more professional, albeit much more messy. A new gasket is included in all tranny kits along with a new filter.

An additional note: From an very old book called "Drive it Forever" another key point to making a Auto tranny last over 300K is to let up on the gas BEFORE it upshifts. This is every so slightly to smooth the shift points out. If you get into a habit of doing this, there will be much less wear on the tranny throughout its life. This does not replace tranny fluid service.

abfisch

stlmo

I didn't watch the dealer do my first oil change and plan to try it myself at the next interval. Have a 4 post drive-on hydraulic lift in my garage and just planned use it when servicing the car. Do you think all the oil won't completely drain since car will be level on the lift (instead of front end raised somewhat)? If this is the case, then it seems like all the dealers, service shops, and quick change places are likely not succeeding in completely draining the oil either.

n0v8or

I suspect most, if not all, Toyota dealers use a similar lift for oil changes, and the engineers who designed the oil pan realized this.

Toyota specifies 6.9 qts to fill a dry engine, versus 6.4 quarts for an oil and oil filter change. This suggests they anticipated approximately one-half quart will remain in the engine after draining.

aqwplymouth

I have 4700 miles and was informed by the dealer that the maintenance light will come on at 5000 miles. He said the dealer has to reset the idiot light. Does anyone know how to reset this at home? Thanks

disco340

What year is your car?

aqwplymouth

Oops. 2006 Avalon Touring. I stopped by for my 'free oil change' and the wait was two hours. I suppose the whole reset story was to get me back versus going to a quick lube. Thanks for any help.

alan_s

See page 153 of your owner's manual under "Engine Oil Replacement Reminder Light". It has the instructions for resetting the service light.
In summary:
1. With engine running make sure that the odometer mileage reading is showing, not Trip A or B.
2. Turn engine off.
3. Turn ignition switch to ON position while holding down the tripmeter reset knob and continue to hold the knob down for at least 5 seconds until the odometer shows all zeros. Reminder light should go off.
4. If the light continues flashing, repeat procedure.

aqwplymouth

Alan_S Thanks for the post. I knew the service manager was giving me a line. Alas, I'm more the typical male in that I refuse to read the manual nor ask for directions! Now I can save $20 and bypass the dealer on the oil change. Thanks again.

mthomas1

My Avalon has 8,500 miles. I was getting 31 MPG on interstate driving-now only 22 to 24 MPG. In town MPG also has dropped. Also am experiencing hesitation & Occasionally smell Cat. converter. Toyota service tells me there is recall on the c. converter and is going to replace it. But they say my gas milage is not affected by the catalitic converter and don't have answer for problem.
Another problem I'm having is a bumping feeling in the steering when I turn left. Would like some imput before I take it back to service on Monday. Thanks, mt in Arkansas

champion3

My 06 avalon also has the smell its bad when you get down on it. Glad to know their is a recall for it. Its really bad with the sun roof open. I feel bad for the people behind me its got to be bad.

user777

ask the tech if they have any diagnostic to determine if an injector is sticking or your MAF sensor miscalibrated and calling for a rich setting or for some other reason you are running rich.

haven't driven through a significantly dusty area (dirt roads) and clogged the engine air filter?

i think a CAT can go bad because it is overwhelmed by an engine runnning abnormally rich.

wkobus

Had the same problem with my 2005, 10 K. Took it to Toyota and they replace the lower steering. They stated that they had an advisory on this problem.

scoti1

I am assuming that your cat. converter problem is with the hydrogen sulfide/rotten egg smell. I would think that Toyota would be putting the new catalytic converters in the 2006's and you wouldn't have to deal with a recall. This has been a problem for a number of years and the TSB has been out for the new cat. converter for well over a year now. But take them up on the recall. It corrected my rotten egg smell.

Regarding the hesitation problem, I would direct you to the Toyota/Lexus Transaxle Shift Delay forum but it was closed today to a Read Only along with the Engine Hesitation forum, which also discussed this problem in Toyota/Lexus. You may want to read through them to see if there is any advice you could use. There is also a TSB for the hesitation problem, but I don't know if it has been issued yet for the 2006 Avalon's. Ask your dealer. It has helped some people, but not all. Some have actually had it get worse, so you may want to decide how bad it is before you get the TSB done. Some have seen some improvement to the hesitation problem by switching to premium gas, which is also something Toyota said could help with the rotten egg smell from the bad cat. converter and it also could help your gas mileage. So if you aren't yet, give the premium fuel a try.

johnbl1

I know folks have mentioned this but for 30 yrs Ive only dealt with spin on filters..Could someone go step by step how to replace the cartridge?? I know where it is located.. Do I need to remove the center slot to drain the oil first?? Please go over the sequence..Thanks folks

mgold1

I own a 2005 Avalon and I can't seem to turn out the "Maint. required" light. I know that it turns on by itself to remind you to change the oil. I change the oil at more frequent mileage (3000), and I press the odo button for several seconds but I can't get the light to go out. Any suggestions?

bobwiley

mgold1: In my 06 Owners Manual, the instructions are on page 153---or go to #111 in the Care & Maint Forum--hope this helps!
Bob

ederzawiec

I've found many posts relating to this topic, but can't locate Instructions. Has anyone documented the steps?

wwebb

There are three plugs on the back (firewall) side of the engine and three on the front side under what looks like three caps where the ignition wires terminate.

avalong06

Just bought an 06 avalon and changed the oil myself, first I went to a toyota dealer in columbia, mo and bought an oil filter kit and 5Quarts of toyota oil guess what I paid a total of 14.50 and it is so easy to do! I love my Avalon!!!!!

avalong06

hello, I just bought my avalon and went to a toyota dealer and bought oil and filter kit for my 06 xls and they sold me 5 qts of oil and filter so now it sounds like i should have bought 6.5 qts? when i got done changing my oil it was about half way between the marks? I would have thought a toyota dealer would have known how much oil goes in to the manuf. spcs and I even ask if 5 qts was correct and he said yes??

russmc

What is really necessary, and what is not? What is a fair cost in SoCal? Our car looks and runs like new, and has served us flawlessly for over five years. It has been cared for per the Toyota book without questions, but this one has us wondering.

captain2

and when I bought my early '05, they even sold me the typical spin-on filter that fit the '04. And to this day, I'm still not sure they know about the 6+ quarts, there may be a whole bunch of current model Avs out there with note enough oil because even the 3rd party folks don't know. But, have done it myself now thru 8 changes (synthetic, of course) and it is not really anymore difficult than changing on my wife's Altima 3.5.

fin

If you have changed the coolant recently, and the brake fluid and the transmission fluid (flush completely, not just change filter and a little fluid) you should be in good shape. Read the manual. Your car should go 200k miles if you take care of it. Being in GA, I can't help with SoCal prices but there's not a lot to do if you keep up with the book anyway. Might drain and refill the power steering fluid at this time also.

scs111

I believe you will find the Avalon takes just over 6 quarts of oil...not 5. You might want to check your oil level.

abfisch

at that low mileage, all I would have changed is the oil/filter, and tranny fluid and filter. Yes. No timing belt till around 100K. Water pump and V belts at that time as well.

abfisch

kersten

Hello,
Hello!,
I just bought a 2000 XLS and I do love it!Always taken care of at dealer and original owner with 90,000.... I am not a mechanic but I can change the oil and air filter. I am having trouble replacing the interior air filter. I took out the glove box and then I am stuck. The dealer said the cut out area should be right in front of the filter...Mine seems to be off to the left an inch or two...there is not much space to pull it out or up??..Can anyone tell me how to get out the filter to replace it with a new one?? No it has not been wrecked....THanks,JB

kersten

Thanks to previous discussions I found out how to take out the glove box and replace the interior cabin filter. What a great site! THanks again!! JB

mikemurrell

I've read that the instructions to change oil/filter cartridge on an '06 Avalon come with the dealer-supplied filter. That said, I came across a post on the Tundrasolutions forum indicating someone had pulled a pdf how-to on this subject at an Edmunds site.

Would anyone know if such a pdf is available here and how to find it?

Thanks for your time.

Mike Murrell

mem4

Copy and paste this address to the PDF file:

http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_oil_change.pdf

badgerfan

Leave it to Toyota to complicate something as simple as changing the filter. Exactly what is wrong with a conventional one piece filter anyways?

mikemurrell

Thanks mem4 - just what I needed.

Mike Murrell

fin

The word is recycle badgerfan. Much easier to get used oil from a paper cartridge than a paper cartridge wrapped in a metal can. Several people in this forum have suggested that this will become the newest "old tech" feature on many new makes...

johnj3

Outside of a dealer does anyone have experience with a good place to get a 2006 Oil Change (ie: National chains etc.)Thanks!

abfisch

After draining the oil pan, let it sit for 1/2. Go back to the filter, pack rags around it, and dislodge it and then screw it off slowly. As it comes off the threaded neck, tilt the gasket end up slightly. You should have min. drainage.

Yes, you are right. It is a bad design. The angle and underneath the manifold. Very non logical.

abfisch

lwilliard

Please tell me how to replace the filter? I have been unable to access your previous message. Thank you, lwilliard

beeman4u

Hello everyone. I have 2006 Avalon and I'm approaching the 15K mile mark. Has anyone gotten the 15K mile service from the dealer? Is/Was that necessary. I read the manual and many of the things says "check" rather than "replace" The dealer tells me the book is wrong and they replace many items. He tells me if I don't get this service done, I could void my Warranty. In the past, I've always gotten 30K and 60K service on all my previous cars and they've run well. Honda and Nissan. Any suggestions

guest

We also own a 2000 Avalon...about 80,000 miles. The dealer said that they typically do not replace spark plugs untill around 100,000 miles. They did say that the plugs are hard to get at....which means that "they" should do them. Sorry about the "on-line" service link....I am searching for same.
David

guest

Hello guys.. a question for you.. This is my first Toyota.. having said that let me say that I bought the car new just 2 months ago.. when I hit 1500 miles I took it in to have the oil changed.. some say its not necessary, but I'm old school and every new engine I've had, I just change the oil at around 1500 to 2000 miles, then again at 5K. Anyway when I changed oil this past weekend I went ahead and used the "toyota" 5w-30 oil and toyota filter. I mentioned to the service writer that my next oil change I would be switching over to Mobil 1 synthetic. He advised me that I shouldn't go to synthetic in toyota until at least 10 to 15 thousand miles. LIke I said, never owned a japaneese engine before, but I know for a fact that Mobil 1 is a factory fill for porches, corvettes and other high performance power plants, so I find it hard to believe that it would damage seals or anything else for that matter on my avy's power plant. any thoughts? thanks

Roland

netwon

Good morning,

I work in Northern Canada, for one of Canada's largest producers of Synthetic Crude Oil. (450,000BPD) Synthetic oil will not hurt your car from new.

As you mentioned it is a factory fill for many cars.

Where I live we see -45C temps and regular regular oil just won't stay fluid. Synthetic oil is out of the ground just like what you'll here people call Dino oil.

The difference is how it is hydrotreated (removal of sulfur and nitrogen as Hydrogen sulphide gas and ammonia respectively and turning Hydrogen double bonds, into single bonds removing diolefins & olefins which are the waxes in your oil]. The process of upgrading the synthetic oil, also equals a very consistant molecular weight. Which is why it flows well in cold and doesn't break down in heat. They do not need to add as many additives to the oil to make it perform in minus degrees or plus degrees.

Non-synthetic oil may have some molecules that are a weight of 1 and some that are a weight of 100, but the average comes to 5 (this differece increases the need for additives to make the oil exibit the desired weight properties, pour point, flash point, froc point etc...). Where in synt the weight comes very close to 5 across the different cut points of the oil > less need for additives

I know that is alot of detail, but in short Synthetic oil and "regular oil" can come from the same base stock, the difference is in the upgrading. Where I work we extract the oil from sand (oil sand). The difference is how it is treated before it gets to you.

Hope that helps,

Netwon

oilcan2

I have a 06 limited,I put amsoil 0w30 in it at 2500 miles
runs fine,if the dealers never use syn,how do they know you
have to wait for 15k miles.

rpfingsten

oiLcan... how long have you used amsoil? In all of my other vehicles I've used Mobil 1 synthetic.. I've heard alot about amsoil, mostly very good reports.. I've also heard alot of people sing the praises of "royal purple".. actually saw that on the shelf at a local gm quick lube place not too long ago, but don't know anything about "purple". I was curious as to how long you go in between oil changes with amsoil? also is it available in most national chain auto stores and why do you prefer it over Mobil 1. Like I said, i've used Mobil 1 for years but that's because it's easy to find and i believe it's a good product.. but that wouldn't prevent me from switching if i thought I could provide better engine protection for my car.

Roland