Pontiac Bonneville Starting/Stallling/Ignition Problems

smokinjoe3

ok, after a no spark condition. I replaced the cam and crank sensors, and the ignition module. now the car starts runs then dies after 3 or 4 seconds. Fuel pump? even thoght it was fine before the no spark started?
all grounds are good, cables are good, batterys good, fuses are good.

imidazol97

You can try to verify the pump keeps running after it starts. When it quits, if you push on the schrader valve on the fuel line with a cloth/towel to catch the fuel (do this with a cold engine) is the still presssure?

the pump primes when you turn the key to ON for a couple seconds then turns off. After the car starts the oil pressure keeps a relay turned on to run the fuel pump. I don't know if there's another method that runs the pump while the motor cranks after the priming.

There may be a line coming up near the battery sticking out of a bundle of wires with a green connector on the end. I believe if you applied battery positive power to that it's supposed to run the fuel pump as a check on the pump for testing. You might see if you have that and if it runs the pump. You could connect it an try starting the car with it running that way to see if the pump is turning off after the initial prime.

waltjason

I have a 1997 Grand Prix GT with 105,000 miles on it that has the same problem of not wanting to crank when its warm. It turns over fine but wont fire. But after it cools down it will start up. I can hear the fuel pump prime, I thought about the ground wire connections but that doesnt make since it only does it when it's warm. The issue I'm leaning towards is the coil packs is it possible for them to overheat thus causing them not to work on a warm crank? Or a faulty control module? Any help on this would be nice TXS

johnjewkes

Well Walt, I thank that is entirely possible. I tried an experiment, I took two 6" fans
that Run on 12v DC, and rigged them to a termostatic switch set to 104(o) F. And wired so only when Engine in run position. So far, knocking on the Faux wood-grain on the Instrument panel, so good. A bit extreme, but I do know that certain Electronics are very sensitive to heat. Transistors and capacitors are even more so. Their efficiency drops of quite a bit once thetemperature reaches 100(o) F. There was originally white grease between the mounting plate and the bottom of the Coil packs. This grease helps in heat transfer and is used between computer chips and cooling fins in most computers since the P-II 233 MHz. It works. I noticed it had turned brown, so replaced that as well. Mechanics can never get it to duplicate, and get no error codes when it happens...

imidazol97

Carefully check you battery cables for corrosion. Turn off your automatic air and all with the key ON then remove key before checking. Reconnect the negative last.
Check the positive cable if there are two connectors one on top of the other between the connectors. Check down into the plastic for deterioration of the copper cable. Look at the other ends of the cables for good connections-retighten bolts if necessary.

Last I suggest checking for spark by removing one wire and laying it on a metal ground while someone cranks.

Then check for the injectors working by feeling them or putting a 194 running light bulb wires into the injector connector pins and you'll see the light flash.

cops_263

i just bought a 89 bonneville with 250K miles. The engines sounds and runs great, execpt i noticed the engines stalls while idling for a period of time and after driving it for awhile when slowing for like stop signs and stuff. i also noticed sometimes the engine will hesitate and the engine service light will come on then, after awhile will shut off. The engine will start back up usually right away, but sometimes i have too let it set for a bit before it will start again. The pevious owner said he replaced the fuel pump, filter, plugs, wires, and cleaned the injectors(however they can be moved around by hand), was told an O2 sensor could do this also a plugged converter, can anyone help before my clunker becomes a money vaccum?

cops_263

PROBLEM SOLVED !!...FOUND OUT THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY A FAULTY MAF (MASS AIR FLOW) SENSOR. THE SENSOR IS LOCATED BETWEEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND THE AIR CLEANER. TO TEST IT...USE A SCREWDRIVER HANDLE TO TAP ON THE FLAT ELECTRICAL BOX PART OF THE SENSOR WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AT NORMAL TEMP..IF THE ENGINE HESITATES OR IT STALLS AS MINE DID THE SENSOR IS FAULTY, AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED, WHICH IS VERY EASY TO DO, BUT A LITTLE PRICEY, AUTOZONE CHARGED ME 161.99 PLUS A 50 DOLLAR CORE, BUT IT WORKED AND THE ENGINE RUNS GREAT..HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE..

will1405

I have a 2004 bonneville. 67,000 miles. Bought it used and put on an remote starter. After 6 months the car started stalling. Almost always while in heavy traffic!! The dealer figured it was due to the starter, so they unhooked it and it didn't help. I will ask them to check the MAF that you mentioned above. Thanks for the post.

imidazol97

Can you tell more about how it stalls and what you're doing?

You might check the IAC also (Idle air control). It maybe gooped up or sticking. You might have them take off and clean the throttle body which could take care of both MAF and IAC.

kbella3

I drive a '94 Bonneville (mileage 157,000 approx). It was my mother's car and she gave it to us about three years ago. Overall it's been a good second car. We first starting experiencing problems with it over the winter. The brand new battery would lose its charge. Turned out that the power antenna had a short in it. We disabled it and things were fine for a while. However, the car has started dying again, usually at least twice a week if not more. Sometimes it'll happen during driving, other times it just won't start up again after having been driven a while. Usually a jump to the battery gets it going until it happens again. Husband checked the battery cables and they were fine. I printed out the posts re the ground bus which he's going to check now.

Everyone keeps telling us it's the alternator or battery, however both have been tested and were fine. Probably will bring to the mechanic soon, but would appreciate any help you could offer. We really want to keep this car as long as we can, but with two children we need something reliable. As it is, I'm afraid to drive it in case I get stranded (just happened again Thursday night).

smokinjoe3

1993 3800. 154000 miles.
was running perfect. stopped car at work then a no starts with no spark.
replaced crank and can sensor, ign module. now it has spark but starts runs then dies.
fuel pressure at 40 lbs.
what else could it be?

cross1123

We have replaced the following: mass air flow sensor; crankshaft sensor; fuel pump; starter; plugs and wires; When our car warms up it will not start after its turned off. This will only happen when its warm. IF we let it sit awhile it will start up. At a total loss here. Not sending any codes either. Does anyone have any suggestions where we can go next?

cops_263

eagle18

my 99 bonnneville is stalling when driving,i changed the o2 sensor,and it still stalls can any one tell me what the problem is.

jakobt

Hi, there is not much left to replace, what about the CTS coolant temp sensors they have a direct conn to the computer and they are also there to adjust the timing on the ignition. In a case like overheating the engine cooling from inside happens through flooding the engine with gas. If the car is warm it wont start because the message the computer get is engine to hot no gas.There are two sensors one on the rad the second on the engine, usual that on the rad is the one. To find out which one it is just unplug the rad sensor first and try to start and so on.
Good luck

imidazol97

Does it stall hot. Cold. When you come to a stop? Does it start right back up?

How many miles? What service has been done to the car in the past during the time you've had it?

eagle18

99 bonneville stalling out when driving,or idling,i changed the o2 sensor,mass air flow sensor new spark plug wires,fuel filter,miles on it is 200.00.can you please help me.thank you.some times you have to wait to restart it,and thier are no codes that come upcan it be a coil pack doing this.

imidazol97

You have changed many things without diagnosing first. Some new mass air flow sensors don't work. Best is to switch with a car that has a known good one! Switching O2 sensors can also lead to more problems than it fixes. Did you put on a GM?

It could be a poor contact for the spark control module at the wire for the whole set of coils underneath them. I forget the colormon the wire. It also could be a crankshaft position sensor. They tend to be more erratic and not start right away. You can try throwing cold water on the crankshaft position sensor. That sometimes makes them work right and start right back up. If that works, then you know what to try next! It might be camshaft sensor. But I believe they show a code.

johnjewkes

This may sound lame, but Check the fuel! We started having all these problems, took it in to a shop and 2500 bucks later still stalling. Checked the fuel tank and found it was 1/2 full of water. Local gas station we bought fuel at admitted to added water to 'stretch the gas to sell more cheaper. Took off fuel filter and absolute rusty junk came out. Replaced filter and fuel and added alcohol to dry it out. Took the filter to the shop, and he said..."We didn't check the gas, that seemed too simple". Lawsuit underway against shop and gas station over costs and methods of business... Now car runs fantastic and gets it's original performance and 30 +/- MPG. Beware just tossing in parts... bet there are a lot of stations putting water in for $$ sake!
:mad:

imidazol97

WOW.

In that case I'd take off the fuel filter. It's in front of the right rear wheel and easy to remove. I'd dump out what's in it into a glass jar to look for water. \

I recall hearing about a certain brand of discount station around Nashville that had something wrong with their gas delivery that killed a car shortly after filling up there. This was 2-3 weeks ago while we were there visiting friends.

I've heard of stations getting diesel into their gasoline tank and causing a lot of expense to repair the cars it got pumped into before the station shut her down (cars were stalling before they could drive away from the station lot).

55pontiacwagon

I have a 2000 SE and it has developed what feels like be a miss. It seemed to start after I washed the engine. It now does it sometimes at highway speeds when you climb a hill, but it also does it around town when you accelerate. It doesnt happen all the time and I just replace the fuel filter and didnt help. Any ideas?
Thanks

john6363

I have a 2005 Bonne SE, after the 70k mile transmission oil and filter change I have experienced a miss when in OD going up inclines. I took it to my mechanic, very good and reliable. He trouble shot it using the scope and found the crank sensor error. He replaced the sensor, had the same problem, took it back, he could not duplicate the problem, he had the locate GM training rep assist in trouble shooting the problem. The eventualy changed out the computer. Still have the problem. Most recently the distribution module was changed and now the car is the worst it has ever been. It started to stall at stop lights and misses through every gear now, under acceleration. It is back in the shop. Any help, suggestions, advice? My mechanic really is shooting in the dark and is about as fustrated as I am. Really would love to get this problem resolved.
Please HELP!

THANKS
John

alanranton

millage 150,000 No codes, vehical will run between 20 and 30 with very little power then slowley cut out. Took to shop, said had low fuel pressure they put a new fuel pump in. Seem to fix the problem but 30miles down the road died. Now it will only run for about 5mins. Starts good when cold but with in 5mins will studder and die at idle, and will have problems starting unless you let it cool down. The alternator is good, battery is good the cables are good and cleaned. Cleaned up grounds, checked both wiring blocks and driverside under carpet and passenger side, both good and clean. Check the Idle air control valve seems to be good and clean. Tapped on the maf sensor didn't make engine stumble. (One thing the interests me is both battery cables neg and pasitive are very hot to touch.) I was thinking there is probably a short somewhere messing with the computer or a module. But again there is no codes. So it probably not a sensor, and it will start and idle good cold for about 5 to 10 min. All of the electrical part of the bonneville works lights everything. I always checked all fuses everythings good. I have read many of the posts on here and tried alot of them. Thanks for your help, have a good day.

imidazol97

Vacuum leak?

New spark plug wires--standard wires?

New spark plugs at 80K would be standard for me; they're supposed to go 100,000.

Check to see if there's an update to the PROM for the computer. They did an update for my '93 to keep the lockup torque converter from locking up at very low speed (47-50) and that doesn't transmit the normal engine roughness to the chassis as it did before.

Clean the passages in the EGR (but that should throw a code)...

enox

Had a problem with car stalling at traffic light. 2000 Bon SE 110,000 miles. They replaced the plugs and wires did not work. Next step was to replace the mass air sensor . Car no longer stalls.

thanks
Eric

sneakysquirrel

hi
i have a 2002 bonneville 3800 v6. cant get the car to do anything. battery is fully charged and windows and radio and all that stuff works. when i put the key in to start the car the gauges sweep and when i turn it to start it the gauges stop and it kills all power. the security light is flashing. any help????

imidazol97

Have you tried the other key?

Check the battery ground at the floor pan under back seat. Loosen and retighten to be sure it's got a bright metal ground. Check fuses to be sure they are well-seated in fuse blocks under rear seat and under hood.

sneakysquirrel

i only have one key and it has worked before. a shop recently changed the electronic part of the key switch and now we have this problem. when the key is on the on position the security light does not flash. it just stays on but when u open the door the light flashes.

haus73

i would also check the fuel pressure regulator, should be located on the fuel rail???

johnjewkes

I would have the shop recheck the code on the switch and the key. Very likely they did not match the key's code, but instead went with the code in the new part. Example: Key Code is 1577 and new unit code is 1377 you would have a security misnatch. This will cause the car to not properly work (Similoar to a car thief cuting a key with an incorrect code from a blank to match your key, but not your code. Get a Dealer or Locksmith to check the code in the ignition versus the the code of the key. Might be as cheap as cutting a new key with the ignition code, or require you to get a correction to the code in the switch. (Changed by a resistor module).
--Good Luck-- AND which ever way you find it is... Let the shop know. They may be unaware of this and you could prevent problems for future customers!

thomas_il_

2000 Bonneville with over 100 thousand miles, stalled infrequently, and then frequently. Eventually couldn't start it and had to walk home from a parking lot. Towed to a repair shop and they suggested the fuel pump. Others couldn't duplicate the stall. Eventually it did, and they replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Has worked flawlessly for months. Wanted to let everyone know what the solution for me was.

Best of luck to others.

tigris308

Ok, we were in Mexico and this is what happened.....The car - 1989 Pontiac Bonneville SSE- was running perfectly....no problems at all. We stopped the car, because a wreck was in front of us and we could not move.....it was hot, so we all opened the doors while we waited. When the accident cleared, we shut the doors, started the car, and it would not start, engine turned over, but no fire/spark. We opened the doors and the alarm went off. We shut the doors and using the key stopped the alarm, but the car still would not start. We towed it and they mechanic changed the crank position sensor...still no luck, they scanned it and after 2 days found nothing.....we suspect a problem with the anti theft system, but no one knows anything about it. We disconnected battery to try to reset and still no luck. Anyone seen this before?

crowe5

I have a 95 bonneville, that would start but was very difficult. 1rst i changed the cam sensor, which came up on a scan tool. it started right up. ran it for an hour it stalled and i couldnt get it started for a couple of days after that, started ran for a little bit stalled wouldnt start again.. scanned it again, intake temp sensor was smashed ans causing a short, changed it started right up ran fine , as soon as it got cold outside it wouldnt start again, then it warmed up outside its started. waited till morning when it was cold, no start. now when it was warm again i started her up with a fuel pressure guage on the rail and the fuel pressure wouldnt go above 39 which is bad, so i crimpped off the return line and saw that the fuel pump was good because it was increasing pressure as i crimpped off the return and was holding. so it was the fuel pressure regulater, i changed that it ran perfect for about 2 days. now im having a hard time starting it and im waiting to scan it again,, what a joke!!!! has anyone had any issues like this before?? im sinkinf more and more cash into this car.. HElp anyone please..

aughen

hi i have a 2002 Bonneville SE and you hit the key to start and the engine cranks and cranks and crank before it starts and then i was on vacation and dove it there no problems and in the morning at check out the car was flooded and had to pull the plugs and dry the cylinders out before it would start.

changed plugs and oil 8 months ago

kish81

I have a 98 Pontiac grand Prix GTP. It has been giving me trouble off and on for years. It runs fine in cold weather. As soon as it starts getting into warmer weather It starts with it shutting off while driving and will not start on hot days with out several try's. I have it narrowed down to the PCM. But it is related to battery voltage. As the PCM's age their capacitors go bad. These help maintain the computers voltage while the car is running. If your cars voltage drops below 10 volts and your capacitors can't cover this voltage drop the PCM will reboot. This shuts down your ignition system until the PCM reboots and sees good voltage again. This power drop may be quick, like when your AC kicks on or anything that turns on or off that causes a voltage change. If the Caps are good in the PCM your computer will never see this drop. That is why a new battery will help. Also cleaning your battery terminals and charging your battery will help with this. Batteries also hold a charge better in cold temps. Bad news is it will only keep getting worse as the capacitors keep degrading. I am about to the point of buying a new PCM if anyone knows where I can get a new one for a good price let me know please.

imidazol97

Check Autozone and Advance auto parts for PCMs. Someone replaced one in an H-body solving dying problems and high idle at times for $89. They had thrown lots of other parts at the car for $hundreds$ before doing the PCM.

The battery voltage cna be affected by the connections at the battery. If you have multiple connectors on top of each other at the positive, pull back the plastic and check for corrosion between them.

imidazol97

Do you believe it has a good spark? You imply that it's firing but is flooded so coughs instead of starting normally. When it won't start use an extra spark plug and connect one of the wires to it and have someone crank. You should get a great blue spark with the plug lying on a grounded part of the motor. Could be the ignition spark control udner the coils. You might check the connector on the front of the ISC under the coils for corrosion. Remove, clean, reseat.

The FPR also can go bad. The fuel pressure regulator may fail and have fuel in the vacuum line. Pull it off and see if it has fuel in it when this happens. It on the front of the motor next to the UIM.

But mostly I would want your fuel pump thoroughly checked for correct pressures, fuel flow volume, and the electrical current draw--bad pumps tend to draw more current.

I'm betting on low fuel pressure from the pump causing poor injector spray and no start but flooding.

BTW, did you know that if you hold the accelerator to the floor while cranking, it turns OFF the fuel injectors and you can clear a flooded engine? It's just like holding the throttle open in the days of carburetors and that moved a link that turned off the choke plate so the engine could be cleared of excess fuel.

ginlynn43

1995 bonneville SE 3800 i was driving to work on day and after about 25 minutes of driving i stopped at a stop sign and my car stalled. it started right back up then stalled right back out. then it wouldnt start at all. it turned over like it was gonna start every time but just wouldnt start. finally after about 5 or 10 minutes it started right up and i made it to work no problem. after work i was driving home and about 10 minutes of driving my car stalled while i was driving. i coasted into a parking lot. it wouldnt start and wouldnt start. just turned over. finally 10 minutes later it started right up. i drove it to my mechanic and dropped it off because i have been going through this for well over a year and no one knows y it does this. i have had to leave this car at work on a few occassions because it just wasnt gonna start after trying for over an hour. i would return the next day and it would start right up. it always turns over though. it does it more often in the cold, rain, and winter. not so much in the summer although it DOES still do it in the summer. just not as often. i am clueless. i took it to the dealer and they have nothing. they came up with a bad intake that would flood the engine causing it not to start and to stall.i had the intake replaced but still having the same problem. my mechanic couldnt do anything because of course it ran great for him the whole week i lift it with him. HEEEELP!!!!!!!!!.i'm going to check the buss bar under the driver side carpet and clean it. my power locks stopped working a few years ago. my car has this feature that after u turn off the key the radio and windows will still work until u open the doors but that stopped working. now everything cuts off when i turn the key off. and now my damn trunk button dont work! i dont know what to do...!!!!! help!!!!! please! i will pay anyone to make my car work right! i need help! i have a 7 month old son and i cant afford this and i cant keep getting stranded. luckily i havent gotten stranded with him in the car..

hoeman

after reading some of these post I see Im in for alot of grief my bonne just started this stalling thing and it sounds like there is no clear ans , since this began I have changed the crank senser but still stalles and of couarse it wont do it when at the dealership much to my surprise they are almost as pissed as me, there are going to put a blck box in it so that when this happens again there should be something to go on. Short history car starts fine runs good for twenty min then cuts out can re start osmetimes in nutral but sometimes have to stop once would not start had it towed to shop ,of course it stated right up!!!! but it seem s to happen only when it is warmer outside go figure going to ask theme about draining the tank as one guy said. will post results. AS THE BONNE TURNS :mad:

ginlynn43

oh yes pleeeease keep my updated on anything u find out! im losing my mind!

imidazol97

1994 and 1995 have more failures of the PCM, the computer. I don't know if your body control functions like the retained power is a part of that or a separate module. With odd stalling a crankshaft position sensor might be the problem but I've read many who spent the $100 for a replacement computer from Advance Auto or similar and solved their problems.

My second thought would be the Mass Air Flow sensor. They can be cleaned with a sensor cleaner from the parts store. Do not touch the two tiny wires but you might use an artist brush. If you look at them toward a light you might see dirt caught on them. If you have someone who can substitute a MAF from a working car that would be good--many of the cars with3800s use the same part number. If you buy a replacement, stick with a known good brand.

The fuel pump could also be the problem. When they get hot, the pressure they supply is a little low and that causes problems because the injectors don't work right. But replacing that is a serious repair by dropping the fuel tank. The pressure can be measured by driving with a fuel pressure gauge connected and seeing if it acts up when the car gives problems. Driving a car when low on fuel often helps wear the pumps down because they run hot. If that's happened to this car often running below a quarter tank, it might be a problem.

You didn't mention the number of miles on the Bonneville.

danel2

(Starting car after setting for peroid of time). car will crank but not fire, touch the gas pedal just slightly and will start and not have any probs the rest of the time driving during usage of the start for the day or trip. The next day it will be the same thing. Is the throtle possition sensor bad, or the shaft worn on the buttefly on the throllle body, or maybe leak down of fuel overnite? I set the idle up a shade and of course a fast idle code comes up. So I set it back to its normal position. Any Ideas?

hoeman

OK got the bonne fixed it was the fuel pump ah but not the pump itself!!! there are some kind of power source leeds that go to the pump and mine where corroded just enough that where they got hot they could not hold the currant changed those and it runs okay hope this helps

imidazol97

Were those leads inside the tank or outside?

Did the data box they connected catch the failure?

Glad you found the problem.

gdirisio

I've got the same problem as hoeman, at stoplights and stop signs it stalls, and shuts off at lower RPMs, but the car restarts easily.also sometimes normal start up is tricky because the engine will not fire up right away, you gotta give it some gas to get it going. list of new parts includes:

- mass air flow replaced - aftermarket not from GM
- crank sensor
- ignition module
- IAC valve
- fuel filter

even with these parts installed the problem is still not fixed and even a pontiac dealer looked at it and could not fix my problem. if anyone knows how to correct this problem please help me out

imidazol97

Two words: fuel pump. Either pump or connections to it may be burned (overheated from running low on fuel?).

Actually another possibility is the EGR. Disconnect it when it's doing it and see if it starts quicker and drives without stalling. I've read about them sticking open.

Try a MAF from another 3800 with the same part number that is GM.

You might try pulling spark plug wire in advance so it's easily done. Then when it stalls and typically won't start right away. pull the wire, stick in a screwdriver or old spark plug, lay it on engine ground and crank to check for spark.

Also take off an injector lead. Stick in a 197 running light bulb with the two wire leads bent straight to stick in. When the injector's firing okay that bulb should blink during cranking.

A distant possibility would be a vacuum leak on a tube or the UIM.

Missed another one, FPR. Pull the vacuum hose and look for gasoline liquid. Several of those had leaked.

hoeman

yes the data box recorded the failure and the leeds where outside the tank as I understoud on the top of the fuel pump under the acsses plate,

checkingitout

My son's car has been well maintained. He bought the car used and was told
about the problem. Previous owner replaced the crankshaft censor. Problem remains.

Driving down the freeway the car sometimes dies. Car dies in city traffic.
Sometimes it starts right up, other times it takes up to an hour or more.
He has spent an hour trying to start the car only to leave, come back in an
hour, and like magic it starts right up.
Twice it started up after pushing it a short distance (coincidence?).

Sometimes the car won't start, it turns over, just won't start. Yesterday, I
drove his car for 10 minutes, made a quick stop....wouldn't start. When it
finally started, it was fine the rest of the day. This morning it stalled on the
freeway going 65 miles an hour, which is norm for it's stalling pattern.

Both of the above happen whether the gas tank is 1/2 full or topped off.

GM says they have never heard of this problem.

The computer has no errors recorded.

Last August, we went from the Bay Area to Reno and back, NOT a single
problem.

My son cash supply is limited....Any ideas as to the problem? Starting with the cheapest please.

Thank-you so much for any replys.

imidazol97

You fixed one possible source of a problem.

I did read about someone else with a problem in the age Bonneville. But first be aware that 94 and 95 H-bodies have a higher than usual failure rate of computers with odd symptoms from that. It might be wise to check into replacing the computer itself with an aftermarket rebuild or replacement. I don't believe they are that expensive.

But I just read the other day about someone who bumped their cable to the computer while trying to move and jiggle things at sensors looking for just your kind of problem. I assume the computer is under the air intake box like my 98... Anyhow when he bumped the bundle the car stalled immediately. And it was repeatable. I believe he found one particular female connector that was loose and could move away from contacting the plug prong.

winter_eric

My 96 Bonneville is having problems with the security light staying on. My wife read online it's due to bad wiring near the ignition cylinder that causes the car not to reconize the coded key. I found a way to bypass this on another forum but since I'm not very good with electronics I bought the modual prebuilt on a site. All i neeed to do was find the connecter under the dash near the steering colum and plug it.

Only problem is I can't find the connector under the dash to bypass the security system. The intructions and other people I've talked to say it should be right in front of me when I take off the kick pannel under the steering colum.

I don't want to mess around to much looking for it and accidently pull a wire out by mistake. Does anyone have any thoughs on where to look?

Thanks